This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jon Glassberg. We talked about sending ‘The Nest’ (his first V15) and breaking down barriers as a “big” climber (6’3”, 190 lbs), we talked about some of Jon’s milestone’s over the years, how he trained his power endurance after sending the stand start’, projecting tactics, keys to success, washing his hands before tries, and more. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:00:20.

Christophe Bichet is a world-class rock climber and a motivational speaker. He was born with a rare blood disorder called Fanconi Anemia and is also a cancer survivor. We talked about climbing as a metaphor for life, finding your “why”, learning new skills, how to achieve world-class endurance without training endurance, and holding on and letting go.GoFundMe for Kyler:https://www.gofundme.com/f/throw-down-for-kyler-pallisterSupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/christophe-bichetNuggets:6:55 – Christophe’s dimensions, and Fanconi Anemia8:50 – What I remember about Christophe, and why he doesn’t like knowing names and grades of routes12:14 – How Christophe relates to his accomplishments13:43 – ‘Big Mac’, Smith Rock, and why guidebook grades feel irrelevant to Christophe17:22 – How grades become limits18:49 – Growing up feeling different from his peers, feeling isolated, and regaining self-esteem through rock climbing20:59 – Living each day as if it was your first day vs. last day 23:59 – Christophe’s many eclectic interests26:34 – Gracefully saying no, and asking “Why”29:42 – Awaking people’s vitality, and the climbing metaphor: grabbing on to what is essential, and learning to let go32:13 – Cancer, and the grand piano bill37:14 – Letting go of his identity as a sick person38:34 – Approaching learning new skills like learning a new route41:50 – Learning from people who are better than us, and a common trap to avoid44:02 – How Christophe achieved endurance through training efficiency47:09 – Pretending to be someone you admire52:45 – Amy 55:33 – ‘Spank the Monkey’, and dedicating an ascent to a lost friend1:00:28 – “Stop and breath in the awe of being alive.” - Amy Frohnmayer Winn1:02:25 – Grateful to live in the mountains and have a daughter1:05:10 – Be light

Megan Mascarenas is a multiple-time World Cup gold medalist and the 2016 Open National Champion in bouldering. She is currently 23 years old. We talked about her fascination with puzzles, why she retired from competing in 2017, discovering a new self-identity outside of climbing, pole dancing, getting back to climbing, her goal to climb V14, and current training.Support the Podcast:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/megan-mascarenasNuggets:6:45 – Tuna sandwich and coffee9:19 – Whiskey (the dog, not the alcohol)10:35 – Sunday mornings11:07 – Rubiks Cubes15:20 – Megan’s cloud puzzle16:00 – The puzzle addiction, and becoming a climber at age 218:45 – Siblings and coaches22:33 – Retiring from competition and transitioning away from climbing26:04 – The two sides of freedom, and the path to medicine 29:26 – How Megan achieved a 4.7 GPA in high school, and getting an A- in Rock Climbing class 31:56 – Losing a chunk of herself when she stopped climbing, and getting back into climbing 33:26 – Hindsight is 20/2034:42 – Pole dancing39:46 – Applying pole strength to climbing40:52 – Megan’s current pole dancing “project”41:56 – Megan’s outdoor climbing goals in RMNP,  and current training45:08 – Pole dancing = barndoor training45:51 – Preparing for ‘Jade’, and outdoor vs. indoor climbing48:10 – Advice for new/young climbers 49:26 – Advice new/young climbers should ignore, and what Megan wishes she had done differently50:44 – Magic Wood and ‘New Baseline’52:43 – Question from Jimmy: Any tips for calming nerves during competition finals?54:25 – Competition rituals55:42 – Megan’s self talk when she is getting shut down by a climb56:41 – Question from Jeffrey: What made you so dominant as a young female competitor?57:51 – Megan’s drive to improve, and dealing with growing expectations 1:00:04 – Question from Jeffrey: How do you view climbing vs. training, and has that changed as you have gotten older?1:01:17 – Board climbing1:03:39 – Making up boulders and working on weaknesses1:05:19 – Megan’s favorite pun1:06:10 – Dinner party guest1:07:41 – Singing in the car1:08:18 – The Golden Axe1:09:04 – Happiest climbing day1:09:45 – The ups and downs 1:11:24 – What Megan would want a new best friend to know about her1:12:13 – The Incredibles, mind reading, and superhero colors1:13:25  – Molecules1:14:26 – Gratitude1:15:02 – Math1:16:02 – Zion1:17:09 – Enjoying the path

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Natasha Barnes. I asked for your questions for her on Instagram, and we tackled a wide range of topics including in-season training, shoulder mobility for climbers who lift weights, whether we should tape injured fingers, recommendations for aging climbers, why climbers shouldn’t be afraid of bulking, dealing with lower back pain, training “the position”, cactuses vs succulents, Moose the cat, printer issues, and maintaining the power mullet. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 2:06:41.

In this Q&A, I tackle some of my patron’s most burning questions about how we getting stronger, takeaways from my experiments with nutrition and intermittent fasting, dealing with injuries, favorite training playlists and climbing books, life on the road, patterns I’ve noticed among high performers, dream guests, recommendations for first-time trainers, and much more.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Learn more about Q&As:thenuggetclimbing.com/bonus-contentShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-1Nuggets:00:00 – Q&A introduction, Patreon tiers, and format06:53 – Nico’s Question: Tactics for mini-projects/quick ticks?12:47 – Tony’s Question: Least favorite climbing shoe?14:15 – Tony’s Question: If you could do an episode with one deceased person, who would it be?14:49 – Tony’s Question: Favorite climbing-related book?15:50 – Tony’s Question: Worst climbing bodily function story? 17:00 – Emma’s Question: How does training work, and what is happening in our body when we get stronger?27:16 – Emma’s Question: Recommendations for training with a knee injury?30:34 – Emma’s Question: Should I train my good leg while my other leg is injured?31:44 – Katie’s Question: What inspires you the most aside from climbing?33:34 – Adrian’s Question: Why did you stop intermittent fasting?35:39 – Ted’s Question: Will carbs help me get stronger faster coming from a keto diet? And what changes have you made to your diet that have made a difference?41:16 – Jasna’s Question: How do you mentally deal with injuries? How do you redirect your psych when dealing with a climbing injury?50:35 – Darren’s Question: When are you going to tell us about anorexic Steven? And was it worth it?51:32 – Jimmy’s Question: 3-week or 5-week training cycles: have you tried both? Which do you prefer?54:58 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite training playlist?56:07 – Adriel’s Question: Advice on working through mental blocks, like fear of falling?  1:00:23 – Adriel’s Question: How much can you train a month sustainably?1:03:24 – Adriel’s Question: Tips for hard finger cracks? (5.11 and up)1:06:07 – Heather’s Question: Advice for someone who is interesting in training for the first time?1:12:57 – Heather’s Question: What have you learned about yourself living in the van? And is this lifestyle sustainable for you?1:17:01 – Heather’s Questions: What are some of your biggest climbing takeaways? Where would you be without climbing, and what has made you the climber you are today?1:22:01 – Casey’s Question: Do you train on the road? If so, how?1:23:19 – Casey’s Question: How are you structuring your Hueco trip? 1:26:47 – Casey’s Question: Why does everyone say your van smells good even if they are vegan? Is it because everyone needs beef? (just kidding… kind of)1:27:32 – Casey’s Question: Bouldering diet vs. sport climbing diet? 1:28:35 – Casey’s Question: Favorite other podcasts?1:31:00 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on flexibility?1:32:21 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on warming up?1:34:20 – Casey’s Question: If you could press a button and go anywhere, where would you go each day of the week?1:37:11 – Steve’s Question: What patterns have you seen emerge among the high performers you’ve interviewed?1:40:04 – Steve’s Question: Living on the road full time, do you ever get sick of it and just want to settle somewhere for a year?1:41:13 – Jeffrey’s Question: Top 3 dream guests to interview?1:43:45 – Jeffrey’s Question: What’s the most common weakness you see among top climbers?1:45:40 – Ilkka’s Question: What about the ethical side of eating meat?1:49:08 – Wrap up

Chelsea Murn is a climbing and business coach, and the founder of Lady Beta Coaching. We talked about making 100k in her first year of climbing coaching, recommendations for new entrepreneurs, getting uncomfortable, investing in ourselves, scarcity vs. abundance, rewiring our limiting beliefs, money mindset, and Hogwarts letters.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chelsea-murnNuggets:5:04 – Chelsea’s morning routines, and scheduling similar things on specific days8:45 – Batching, and Do Not Disturb mode12:20 – Creating boundaries, and making time to enjoy  climbing13:33 – Having a coach 16:24 – Being empowered and validated by other women in her business school17:58 – Making $220k last year, and the story of climbing her first 5.13b at Deep Creek24:19 – Description of Deep Creek27:11 – Making $100k in her first year as a climbing coach, and getting started in business coaching32:59 – Example clients and businesses36:11 – How Chelsea thinks about investing in herself, scarcity vs. abundance mindset, and being uncomfortable39:40 – “I was uncomfortable every day of 2020”42:52 – Building a business and not a hustle47:33 – How much Chelsea works now50:12 – Working toward a 7-figure business, and the minimum effective dose52:05 – Coming up with bad ideas, fear of being seen, and having the courage to take the first step57:30 – Backpack full of rocks58:53 – My failed leaps before the podcast, fourth try is the charm, and playing the long game1:04:14 – Doing meaningful work, creating value for people, and getting paid enough to do it again and again1:07:22 – Patron Question from Kyle: Advice for someone getting started in the climbing industry, and moonlight vs. taking a big leap?1:10:21 – Money mindset1:18:03 – Looking for evidence for limiting beliefs, and scarcity mindset in relationships1:20:49 – Journaling, and writing down “opposite reasons”1:22:21 – Brain rewiring: what is it?1:24:47 – Chelsea’s experience with route setting, and rewiring her belief about her own worth and strength1:28:51 – Chelsea guides me through brain rewiring my money mindset1:32:34 – What brain wiring does, the mechanisms behind why it works, and my homework1:37:12 – Being open with goals, charging what you are worth, and redefining success1:42:09 – Patron Question from Curtis: What trends are you seeing in your clients who are having performance breakthroughs?1:44:02 – “Vanity metrics” vs. how you feel1:44:31 – Chelsea’s current brain rewiring practice, and what she is working on herself right now  1:47:18 – Why Chelsea doesn’t read business books, and my thoughts on how to navigate the information age1:51:14 – Chelsea’s favorite fantasy books1:53:16 – The Hogwarts Letter, and Chelsea’s Hogwarts house 1:55:25 – Grateful for sun and to be moving1:56:31 – Upcoming offerings from Chelsea1:58:11 – The LadyBeta Podcast2:00:32 – “If you know you were meant for something more, you were.”

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ben Herrington. We talked about the treasure hunters mindset and clues to look for when developing new boulders, go-to tools for cleaning a new line, how to suss out moves off the deck, building landings, Ben’s new gym in the Tri-Cities, WA, and setting himself boulders that attack his weaknesses.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 47:14.

Leif Gasch has been a climber for over 25 years and now works as a trainer and coach. We talked about his path from construction to coaching, balancing training with a physically demanding job, how to be a better weekend warrior, mini-goals, breaking into new grades, warming up for hard redpoints, and much more.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leif-gaschNuggets:4:36 – “Back porch kind of a deal”5:28 – Living on the road during covid, and moving back to Lander8:06 – The pod, Leif’s first trip to Hueco with Scott Milton, and sending Frogger11:18 – Years of cherry-picking, new development in Hueco, and becoming a guide12:51 – Early carpentry, becoming an electrition, and building a house15:40 – Growing up on a ranch, hunting, and climbing Devils Tower17:54 – Climbing in Cody, ‘The Fuz’ climbing gang, teaching, and falling in love with climbing21:45 – “You come to Lander, you gotta bring your own job!”23:32 – Living with artists, ‘The Plague’, and Leif’s intro to training for climbing25:46 – Lifting weights in college, and the rocket ship analogy29:12 – Sticking with the training process, “it takes time”, and Leif’s first 5.14b35:57 – Learning to stick with it, mental carry over, and testing to be an electrition38:38 – Moving away from the trades, relating to blue collar workers, and starting SUBSTR842:04 – How Leif educated himself to become a better coach, remote vs. in-person coaching, and being receptive to critique45:42 – The PCC49:06 – The 75/25 rule, and designing skill drills54:40 – On the wall tension building, crunches, and the shortcomings of limit bouldering58:56 – Core tension, the posterior chain, and an example of building tension on the wall1:02:39 – The benefit of having a specific goal1:04:19 – The drill Leif learned from Kris Hampton at Power Company, and learning to create more tension through the feet1:07:10 – Patron Question from Donovan: What should I work on to break into 5.13?1:19:50 – Patron Question: How can I be a weekend warrior?1:31:53 – Mini goals1:34:31 – Patron Question from Tyler: Tips for non-professional climbers?1:39:03 – Patron Question from Matt: Recommendations for someone who works a physically demanding job in the trades?1:43:49 – Patron Question from Moritz: Leif’s weight when he climbed 5.14b?1:45:38 – My restricting eating story, training heavy, and being an opportunivore1:54:40 – Patron Question from Moritz: Can Leif do a front lever yet?1:56:43 – Patron Question from Nolan: What does your warmup look like for a hard redpoint?2:05:14 – Patron Question from Steve Bechtel: How did Leif deal with and get past a severe finger injury?2:16:01 – ‘Strawberry Roan’2:26:01 – Patron Question from Darren: Send goals or dream route in Lander?2:31:11 – Patron Question from Darren: Does it feel like a disadvantage being a big dude pulling on small monos in Lander?2:33:08 – Grateful for friends and family 

In this solo episode, I share my experience with an eating disorder. I talk about how an inaccurate DEXA scan and a desire to climb harder spiraled into body dysmorphia, failure, and shame. I also talk about what led me out of it, reframing the way I think about weight, key lessons and takeaways, where I am at now with weight and diet, and how I plan to move forward.Support the Podcast:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/my-eating-disorder

Carlos Tkacz is a teacher, author, and lover of literature. He also lives in a van and climbs V13. We talked about many things, including a reading list given to him by his friend, impactful quotes, lessons learned from students, starting climbing in his 20’s and discovering training, writing a training book, self-publishing sci-fi novels, public speaking advice, and sharing ideas.Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-tkaczInstagram Links:@boulderbushido@thenuggetclimbingNuggets:2:35 – The record button3:37 – Stickers and paintings6:37 – Books from the reading list11:16 – James Baldwin quote12:38 – How Carlos uses Instagram16:16 – ‘Turbulence’ and East of Eden 22:45 – Plans to go back to school for a Ph.D. in Literature, and living in a world of stories26:18 – The moment Carlos knew he wanted to be a teacher31:01 – Teaching Communication 10134:54 – Public speaking advice #1, and the fight or flight response38:38 – Public speaking advice #239:17 – “Drink deep or not at all.”43:02 – Zen Buddhism, and being skeptical of little enlightenments44:11 – “The sign of a true education is to be able to entertain an idea without believing it.”47:50 – Mr. Ruff, and writing an editorial about gay marriage49:33 – Two great stickers49:54 – Living on public land in Bishop and taking a year off52:05 – Quarentraining, and social connection through climbing56:20 – Sending ‘Diabolique’ and becoming a climber at age 2359:01 – Resonating with Patxi Usobiaga’s masochism in ‘Progression’1:02:43 – Carlos’ climbing progression, ups and downs, and the broken pinky story1:07:04 – Shifting to focusing on bouldering1:08:03 – Early training iterations, Taco Bell + bananas, and moving the pieces around 1:11:20 – Writing a training book on accident1:14:50 – The Japanese team, and top outdoor boulderers1:17:25 – Jimmy Webb, gymnastics, survivorship bias, and structure as a tool for resilience1:20:43 – Overview of ‘Training 102’ and Carlos training philosophy1:27:31 – Drills, and higher intensity core exercises 1:30:17 – Rotating exercises and addressing weaknesses, and programming1:32:39 – Training friends and testimonials1:35:33 – What a typical week of training looks like, climb outside, and how Carlos trains within a year1:38:35 – The nutrition chapter, eating disorders,  Carlos’ experience with vegetarianism and veganism, and his current way of eating1:41:36 – Eating the same thing every day1:42:49 – Planning nutrition, eating more, and becoming more flexible1:45:37 – The food industry and the unique challenge of balancing a healthy outlook on food and weight1:46:25 – The ‘Light’ documentary, and finding the line1:47:47 – Scarcity vs. opulence, discipline as a path to freedom, and Carlos’ upbringing1:59:26 – Carlos’ Sci-fi novels, and writing a thousand words per day2:04:03 – Two different types of creatives, and using his first few books as practice2:05:05 – Plot overview of The Void Within2:10:07 – Star Trek vs. Star Wars, Captain Pips, and Carlos’ conversion story and swearing off violence2:11:51 – Losing the mental battle in Hueco, and making a trip to Roy2:14:52 – Gratitude2:17:00 – Excited with sharing ideas with students2:20:40 – Where to connect with Carlos

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Emily Harrington. We talked about her send of ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, finding flow state after a minor head injury, using two pairs of TC Pros to climb the Monster Offwidth, her recent trip to the VRG, how she has trained Adrian (her partner) to climb his first 5.13b, and favorite pancake toppings. You can get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 36:17.Learn more: thenuggetclimbing.com/follow-ups

This is part 2 of my conversation with Dave MacLeod. We talked about key points from Dave’s book 9 Out of 10 Climbers, how he uses flexible programming to train around the weather in Scotland, his current carnivore diet experiment, and listener questions about aging, piles of eggs, disordered eating, fatherhood, Scottish climbing, and more.Support the Podcast:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-2Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:10) – Why Dave wrote ‘9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes’(00:11:09) – Using ‘9 out of 10’ to discover your own individual pitfalls, and why Dave has become more and more interested in lifestyle(00:15:28) – Using your climbing partners as mirrors, changing your circumstances, and the shortcut to sending your project(00:21:00) – Dave’s common pitfall—quality recovery(00:22:25) – Productivity and the value of having a home wall(00:26:30) – “Bouldering is king”, and how Dave fits indoor bouldering sessions around outdoor climbing(00:31:47) – How Dave uses flexible programing for his training(00:37:01) – Periodization as a tool for introducing variety(00:38:52) – Fingerboarding on the same day as bouldering and Dave’s thoughts on which to do first(00:40:33) – The “one-minute-per-move” rule(00:42:40) – Patron Question from Adriel: Any advice for maintaining a positive growth curve as you age? What does Dave think the upper age limit is for hitting peak performance?(00:48:23) – Dave’s take on how much protein to eat per day(00:49:39) – Dave’s current carnivore diet experiment(00:57:10) – Sport climbing on a ketogenic diet(01:07:20) – Patron Question from Charizze: How many eggs make a pile of eggs?(01:10:17) – Patron Question from Maria: How do manage the strength to weight ratio through diet, while avoiding falling down the rabbit hole of energy deficiency and/or disordered eating?(01:16:42) – Patron Question from Mike: Dave, you’re a hero, but I’ll be honest, much of the climbing in Scottland looks chossy and overgrown. What crag should a climber from the US visit to correct that misconception?(01:19:07) – What time of year is best to visit Scottland to climb, and the “24/8”(01:22:23) – Patron Question from Laurent: How do you balance fatherhood and climbing? Any secret beta for a new father who’d like to keep improving at climbing while being present in his daughter’s life?(01:25:59) – Patron Question from Eric: Any recommendations for injury-prone climbers?(01:30:50) – Favorite discipline of climbing(01:32:05) – Last meal(01:32:39) – Recommended books(01:36:24) – Advice for his 20-year-old self(01:37:26) – Advice for his 30-year-old self(01:39:52) – Defining climbing moments(01:42:14) – One of the best decisions Dave has ever made(01:42:54) – Gratitude(01:44:21) – Excited to focus on climbing

Dave MacLeod is a professional climber from Scotland and might be the best all-around climber in the world. Dave also has two master’s degrees and has authored two books. We talked about improving from 13d to 14d in 18 months, the ritual of approaching the fingerboard, how to reduce the risk of tendon injuries, interpreting scientific research, nutrient density, and more.Support the Podcast:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-part-1Nuggets: (00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:26) – The hardest thing Dave has ever downclimbed (00:09:06) – Downclimbing for climbing up?(00:09:57) – Going from 8b to 8c+ (13d to 14c) in 18 months as an experienced climber(00:17:06) – Dave’s thoughts on fingerboarding 6-days per week vs. 2-3 days per week with longer sessions(00:21:57) – Becoming less sure about things as time goes on, and the endurance study example(00:24:25) – Dave’s theory about level of effort as the key to finger strength gains(00:27:42) – The ritual of approaching the fingerboard, and pouring your passion for climbing into every set(00:29:23) – The binary nature of climbing(00:31:09) – How important each of the three ingredients (fingerboard, circuits, running) were to Dave’s jump from 8b to 8c+(00:34:58) – More details about Dave’s outdoor circuits(00:41:08) – Accounting for elite climbers who train vs. just climb(00:47:12) – Hanging straight arm vs. bent arm, and considerations for Golfer’s Elbow(00:50:54) – Learning about tendon injuries for ‘Make or Break’, theories on why tendons fail to adapt, possible environmental factors (sunlight, blood sugar, and linoleic acid), and what Dave is doing to reduce his own risk of tendon injuries(00:57:14) – Dave’s thoughts on linoleic acid and seed oils(01:02:06) – Epidemiological studies vs. interventional trials and experimental studies, and eggs and red meat as examples(01:15:58) – Looking at diet through the ancestral lens(01:20:10) – Dave’s recommendation to focus on nutrient density (regardless of dietary preference)(01:24:22) – Getting interested in nutrition because of weight and seeking simplicity(01:25:52) – Fingerboard grip selection, my recent half crimp assessment, and Chirs Sharma’s crimp grip(01:33:55) – Training difference edge sizes vs. sticking to a basic 20mm, and thoughts on small hold training (10mm and below)

In this bonus episode, I chat with Blake Cason about ClimbWell, and upcoming retreats for Spring 2021. Blake explains what ClimbWell is all about, who the retreats are for, what to expect from this 4-day experience, and talks about her fellow coaches and their vision for future events. 10% Discount Code:“NUGGET10” Learn More about Sign Up:climbwell.co/retreatRetreat Dates and Location:April 8-11  in Veyo, Utah(Second retreat has been canceled)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Blake Cason. We talked about sending her multi-season project ‘Joe SixPack’ at the VRG, transitioning in and out of training phases, embracing curiosity to overcome fear, and reflecting on lessons learned.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 33:57.

Kai Lightner is a professional climber and the founder of Climbing for Change. We talked about how Kai discovered climbing, his reflections on an eating disorder, the importance of flexibility for tall climbers, early racist encounters, starting a non-profit to help open doors for other people, and some of Kai’s favorite training music.  Support Climbing for Change:  donorbox.org/climbing-for-change-launch  Support the Podcast:    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:   http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kai-lightner  Nuggets:  2:53 – Tension boarding, creativity in climbing, and Kai’s first experience with hangboarding  6:55 – Kai’s go-to training music  8:01 – Halloween costumes, and the Tupac and T.I. quotes Kai shared in his graduation speech  10:39 – The Olympics, Kai’s early role models, Chris Brown’s music, and Kai’s mom  11:24 – Growing up climbing everything, the flagpole story, and Kai’s first day in a climbing gym  16:16 – Kai’s first climbing gym, climbing on the same route to prepare for nationals for five years, and driving 6 hours to get coaching  19:13 – Getting into competitions climbing, and most memorable competitions from 14 years of competing  22:15 – Going climbing outdoors at the New River Gorge, being the only black people in a 50-mile radius, and navigating unwelcoming areas  25:19 – Kai’s first racist encounter, and “the race talk”   28:25 – Outdoor climbing as a break from the pressure of competitions, and taking a break from competing to go to college on a full scholarship  31:01 – ‘Reflections on My Climbing Journey’, and Kai’s struggle with an eating disorder  36:33 – Quick vs. sustainable, and finding a better way to be better  38:10 – Thinking about food in a healthier way, climbing 5.14+ at 5’3” and 6’3”, and adapting to a grown-up body  40:27 – Kai’s feelings about projecting, and his longest project to date  41:59 – How Kai’s training has changed as an adult, a typical week of training, and Kai’s coach  45:40 – Looking up to Adam Ondra, stretching for one hour every morning, and Kai’s drop knee stretch  52:05 – Why being more flexible = being a better climber  53:38 – Why Adam Ondra is the best  55:00 – Feeling more complete as a person by helping people  56:04 – Kai’s thoughts on climbing pace  58:31 – Patron Question: What is it like being the tallest professional climber out there? Does Kai run into any situations in which he thinks, “Damn, I wish I were shorter…” If so, how often?  1:01:35 – Patron Question from Joe: I’m 6’5” and I wonder if Kai has any rules or beta for climbing through scrunchy moves that you can’t reach past?  1:02:42 – Volunteering with diversity and inclusion organizations, opening doors for others, and bridging gaps  1:07:29 – Climbing for Change (C4C), partnering with One Climb in Atlanta, and launching scholarships for individuals  1:10:47 – Patron Question from Nathan: What challenges have you faced in developing C4C?  1:12:18 – How to donate to C4C  1:13:03 – Patron Question from Nathan: What are the benefits of having your mom as a coach? What are some of the difficulties?  1:16:34 – Patron Question from Nathan: Do you think you will ever get into trad climbing? How about big walls?  1:18:11 – Kai’s (very impressive) trip to the Hurricave, and aspirations to climb 5.15  1:21:12 – Patron Question from Anna: Having grown up in the spotlight, how does Kai view his private life vs. his public life, and does he struggle to find a balance?  1:23:43 – Patron Question from Sarah: If you could get every young climber to internalize one message what would it be?  1:25:24 – Most recent meal, Asian food, Cheetos, favorite songs, and the crying laughing emoji  1:30:27 – Family  1:31:04 – Excited about Climbing for Change  1:31:57 – Instagram, outfits, and sharing experiences to help others  

Matt Segal is a professional rock climber and the founder/owner of Alpine Start, a company that makes “Instant Coffee That Actually Tastes Good”. We talked about how Matt got started in climbing, his nickname ‘Miami Vice’, early mentors, losing friends in the mountains, recovering from a paragliding accident, starting a business, and innovating new products.  Alpine Start Kickstarter:  https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/mikeycrouch/alpine-start-with-benefits  Support the Podcast:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing   Show Notes:   http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-segal  Nuggets:  2:49 – “Still starting at the bottom and trying to go to the top”  3:53 – Miami Vice, training at a young age, Tony Yaniro, and the PCA   7:19 – Matt’s first highball in Hueco  13:32 – Mentorship of Eric DeCaria, Micah Dash, and Jonny Copp  17:55 – Losing friends  20:13 – Yuji Hirayama, kids bicycles, and Beat Kammberlander  22:10 – Studying Tibetan Buddhism and Psychology in school  25:07 – The beginning of Alpine Start, and Matt’s role with the company  32:00 – “You should surround yourself with people that are smarter than you.”  34:12 – Hiring good employees  36:59 – Waterproof Mini Notebook  37:57 – Matt’s writing practice, and writing letters that you don’t send  39:13 – Fulfilment and focus   39:59 – Paragliding with Cedar Wright, and Matt’s accident  44:44 – Recovery, skiing, and building back up to 5.14  47:07 – Returning to trad climbing, and trying ‘The Path’  49:06 – Calming his mind for a headpoint attempt   49:45 – Patron Question about Matt’s accident, dark times, and “My number had been called”  52:41 – Another Patron Question, and unfinished business  54:22 – Patron Question: Any tips for training for trad climbing specifically?  55:44 – Patron Question about small gear, and Matt’s story about ripping gear in China  59:16 – Sneaky ways to equalize gear  1:00:25 – Climbing ‘Primate’ in the Flatirons  1:01:33 – Cutting his hand open at a silent zen retreat, proving the doctors wrong, and teaching Ethan Pringle how to trad climb  1:03:46 – Takeaway from the Bugaboo saga, and “partnerships are way stronger than names and grades”  1:04:58 – Grateful for wine, and cooking  1:07:27 – New products from Alpine Start and the Kickstarter (link above in show notes)  1:10:49 – Matt’s upcoming St. George trip  1:13:08 – The project on Mt. Hooker, local projects, and Matt’s cooking/climbing mashup road trip  1:16:26 – Freedom of the Wheels …2?  

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mike Doyle. We talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow injury, working with Natasha Barnes and retraining his brain to reduce pain, and Mike shared his go-to hangboard protocol for maintaining finger strength throughout the year between training blocks. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 30:04.

This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week training block, an example training day, the value of training with a partner, favorite Louder Than Eleven films, and foreign haircuts.  Support on Patreon:   patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing   Show Notes:   http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-part-2  Nuggets:  4:34 – Flexibility training, and the pain cave  10:34 – Jon’s improvement in the spits  13:30 – Why splits training probably isn’t that important, and practicing climbing in a small box  14:56 – The distinction between training vs. just bouldering in the gym, and the value of the training boards (MoonBoard, Tension, etc)  16:11 – Jon’s MoonBoard training, and the “Top 10 climbs in a day” system  21:20 – How MoonBoard gains transfer to outdoor bouldering, and learning to execute  22:46 – How Jon structures his training week  27:36 – An example training day, mock comps, and climbing with a weight vest  31:40 – Indoor projecting days, and how Jon structures a six-week training block, and resting  34:24 – Some of the testing Jon did with Steve Maisch  37:14 – Building up your training capacity, why it’s ok to suck some days, and seeing improvement after resting at the end of a training block  39:21 – Budgeting a week to relearn how to climb after getting strong  40:32 – How Jon’s six-week training blocks fit into a year, and the value of a training partner  42:58 – Forced time off, maintaining finger strength, and warming up with a hangboard in addition to climbing  46:14 – Skin  47:38 – Jon’s guidelines for warmup up  50:20 – More about one-arm max hangs, how to progress the load, and where to start out  54:54 – “Don’t go into training half-assed”  55:45 – Hangboard repeaters, and how Jon structures a six-week block  1:00:29 – Feeling like a boxer, and going to the gym to win  1:02:19 – Jon’s thoughts on MoondBoard vs. Tension Board vs. Kilter Board vs. Beastmaker Board  1:04:11 – Jon’s recommendations for my Hueco “training” trip  1:07:39 – Project shopping, the relativity of grades, and the value of throwing yourself at something hard  1:10:33 – Sean Rabatou and the value of projecting with other people  1:12:59 – How Jon’s climbing schedule has changed over the years, and needing more rest days  1:15:02 – FA of ‘King’s Landing’  1:16:26 – Good food and haircuts  1:17:26 – ‘The Abyss’ film  1:18:23 – Recent and upcoming films from LT11  1:20:01 – Gratitude for family and friends  1:20:48 – What Jon hopes to accomplish with LT11, and with his own climbing  

Jon Glassberg is the owner of Louder Than Eleven, a leading media production company in the Outdoor Industry. He is also a total crusher, having climbed 400+ boulders from V10 to V14. In part one we talked about filming Emily Harrington on her in-a-day ascent of ‘Golden Gate’, about Jon’s early climbing, about pursuing the goal of V15, and about his struggle with a bizarre injury.  Support on Patreon:   patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:   http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-part-1  Nuggets:  2:54 – Coffee, intermittent fasting, and being more productive in the morning  4:24 – Jon’s go-to breakfast on a climbing day, and on an El Cap filming day, and caffeine  6:20 – Getting back from Yosemite, and Jon’s five-year film project with Emily Harrington  8:03 – Emily’s scary fall in November 2019  13:17 – Emily climbing ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, and her dramatic fall near the top  23:23 – Emily’s grit, and how Alex Honnold is different than everyone else  28:18 – Jon’s perception of free climbing El Cap in a day, and why Emily’s accomplishment is so impressive  32:47 – Jerrydoodleberg  35:41 – Jon’s month trip to Yosemite, balancing work with climbing, and learning to be better with your time  40:32 – Being in Yosemite during covid, and the previous government shutdown  41:45 – Jon’s bouldering highlights from this Yosemite trip  44:36 – Why Jon prefers bouldering over big wall free climbing  46:41 – Existing on the side of El Cap  49:51 – Learning new systems, and being obsessed with efficiency  50:33 – Working with Steve Maisch, how Jon maintains finger strength during a shoot, and training on the Moonbaord during covid  54:40 – Jon’s training philosophy and the value of hangboarding (both physical and mental)  57:43 – The one-arm hangboard protocol Jon learned from Steve Maisch  1:00:17 – 3F drag repeaters, Jon’s finger strength, growing from 5’2” to 6’3” in a year, and building log cabins  1:04:03 – Climbing back when V12 was “hard”, Boone NC, graphic design school, early filming, and the underpants gnomes  1:09:39 – Grad school, almost buying a gym, and starting LT11  1:12:14 – The evolution of LT11, and working on his first feature film  1:17:31 – Emily’s accomplishment in context, and the history of women free climbing El Cap in a day  1:19:21 – The new school approach to big wall free climbing on El Cap, and shooting with Jorg Verhoeven   1:27:11 – The process of putting together a feature film (after filming)  1:34:35 – Balancing commercial work with storytelling  1:38:01 – The roll of a line producer, and how Jon uses Google Drive to keep track of projects  1:42:59 – Jon’s to-do list for life  1:44:43 – Jon’s V15 goal, working with Steve Maisch, and joking about weight classes in climbing  1:48:11 – ‘The Island’, Jon’s crazy injury, and crutching all over Red Rocks  1:57:06 – Jon’s limited mobility, putting on socks, and Jon’s thoughts on the wear and tear of bouldering  2:00:53 – A new philosophy for projecting, and a sample of Jon’s iconic boulders list  

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Bechtel. We talked about goal setting, how drinking more water can help with fat loss, the "Three Good Tries" rule, building skills vs. habits, three things to consider when choosing a training program, the value and limitations of training assessments, and why we shouldn’t necessarily depend on scientific research to tell us what to do.   You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:24:10.  

Chris and Heather Weidner are a hardcore climbing couple, both with many 5.14s under their belt across multiple rock climbing disciplines. We talked about drink counting, New Year resolutions, current injuries, the steps to becoming a kneebar wizard, projecting tips, hard conversations, and balancing climbing goals with maintaining a healthy relationship.  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-heather-weidner  Nuggets:  2:41 – How Heather broke her own finger climbing at Shelf Road, and being injured together  5:52 – Counting drinks  9:24 – New Year resolutions, goal setting, and the Green River trip  13:52 – Heather’s climbing origin story, her background in dance, and the choreography of projecting  18:48 – Chris’s climbing origin story, and being introduced to rock climbing and mountains  21:05 – Living in Boulder and maintaining roots in Vegas  21:50 – The art of becoming a kneebar wizard  29:35 – Philosophy of kneebaring, getting better vs. training, and beta tactics  35:06 – Tinkering with beta  38:35 – How Chris breaks down a new project, and training the rests  41:28 – Kneerbar training exercises  44:04 – How Chris broke his pinkie by kneebaring  45:44 – Sourcing kneepads, Send pads, and kneecap tape explanation   49:45 – Heather’s kneebar beta, and why women can handle pain better than men  51:35 – Go-to shoes for kneebars  53:20 – Adam Ondra is making kneebaring cool again  54:37 – Send pads, leg warmers, and man warmers  57:33 – ‘Gambler’s Fallacy’  1:03:18 – How Chris hurt his shoulder  1:04:38 – Balancing climbing together with climbing with other people  1:09:14 – Chris’s passion for climbing (and ticking boxes), and Heather’s love for projecting  1:13:11 – Expectations going into a hard project, and being ok with not doing all of the moves the first day (or several days)  1:16:12 – ‘Stockboy’s Revenge’  1:18:15 – “Ask Chris what it’s like for him to have Heather outperform him on his project?”  1:19:22 – Heather’s “bullheadedness” in projecting, and focus vs. adaptability  1:21:01 – Hitting rock bottom on ‘China Doll’, and addressing inner demons   1:23:28 – Getting mental coaching from Arno Ilgner, meditation, and therapy  1:25:23 – Heather’s meditation practice, and the flow state of climbing   1:26:53 – Breakdown of ‘China Doll’  1:30:23 – What Chris learned from ‘Gambler’s Fallacy’  1:32:53 – Heather’s mindset when tying in for a project burn, and how Chris’s projecting philosophy has changed  1:35:57 – Learning to adapt, and the power of letting go  1:37:04 – Why Heather is excited about bouldering  1:38:20 – Gratitude  1:41:17 – Kids and hard conversations  1:45:12 – Another decade of improvement  

Jon Cardwell is a professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and sport climbing. Jon’s tick list includes V15, multiple 5.15a’s, and hundreds of 5.14s. We talked about lessons learned from ‘Biographie’ and ‘La Rambla’, about his off-season and pre-training modes, about bouldering for sport climbing, and about his current 5.15 project at The Fortress in Colorado.  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-cardwell  Nuggets:  4:05 – Training at home during quarantine, and forced time off from climbing  5:44 – Taking time off over the holidays, and setting goals for the new year  8:14 – How Jon trains for a goal route (broad strokes)  10:45 – Tapering, the performance window, and incorporating hiking when preparing for ‘Biographie’  14:04 – Jon’s typical climbing schedule when trying a 5.15 project, and differences between ‘Biographie’ and ‘La Rambla’  15:46 – Sending ‘La Lambla’, and taking a step back to recharge for a hard project  20:03 – Jon’s current 5.15 project, and how his training has changed vs. previous 5.15s  23:24 – More details about Jon’s project  28:50 – Running to circulate blood and aid recovery  30:31 – Breakdown of project pitch 1  33:32 – Skin cooling, and portable fans as the future of sport climbing  37:48 – Using the tension board, Jon’s “pre-training” mode(s), and bouldering for sport climbing  43:16 – Outdoor vs. indoor bouldering  46:53 – Moderate days and enjoying climbing  50:55 – Jon’s trips to Ten Sleep this summer  53:06 – Memorable climbs/sends that didn’t make the headlines, and Carlo’s “Triple 14” day  59:36 – ‘Misty Wall’  1:09:40 – Patron Question: What are some of Jon’s favorite FiveTen shoes?  1:12:43 – Patron Question: Do you have any takeaways from dealing with climbing finger injuries?  1:19:16 – Thoughts on preventing finger injuries, and when to let go  1:24:01 – Advice for newer climbers (first few years)  1:28:06 – Advice for climbers with limited access to outdoor climbing, and coaching kids  1:32:52 – Route setting  1:36:06 – Moving toward a new career  1:37:55 – One of the best decisions Jon has ever made  1:39:55 – Photography, dog walking, and being in the mountains  1:40:43 – Gratitude for health  1:42:02 – Favorite post-climb meal  1:42:52 – ‘The Wind-Up Bird’  

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Lizzy VanPatten. We talked about her FA of ‘Make Me Sanguine’ 5.13a—a beautiful new trad route on some of Oregon’s finest columnar basalt. This was also Lizzy's first 5.13. We talked about the process of projecting the route, about the meaning behind the name, and about breaking down the arbitrary limits we create for ourselves.  You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:03:33.

This is a short clip that I shared at Darek Krol’s memorial service. I felt that this clip captured some of Darek’s philosophy of life, his spirit, and his humor. I wanted to share it here in case you don’t have a chance to listen through the full 3-hour episode. We will miss you, Darek.  Full Episode:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/darek-krol  

Darek Krol was known by many as the “Mayor of Rifle”. He managed to climb 400+ of Rifle’s roughly 500 routes in his 23 years in the canyon. Darek was killed in an avalanche shortly after this interview. We talked about his love of climbing, about stewardship, and about his close friend, the late Dave Pegg. Darek was well-loved, and he will be deeply missed.  Darek Krol Memorial Fund:  http://www.gofundme.com/f/darek-krol-memorial-fund  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/darek-krol  Nuggets:  4:07 – Discovering climbing in Poland  7:44 – Love at first rock climb, and climbing in his “whities” before harnesses  11:35 – ‘Philology’, and ‘The Conquerors of the Useless’  17:04 – What defines us as human beings, and hugging the planet  26:00 – Balancing relationships with climbing  28:25 – Moving to America  32:58 – Parallel lives in America and Poland, telling stories, and connecting with people in Rifle  38:56 – Climbing as a social sport, Darek’s first trip to Spain in the mid-80s, and selling his sleeping bag to buy chalk and shoes  47:48 – Working for ‘Gory’ (‘Mountains’) magazine, and starting his own climbing magazine  52:25 – Discovering training, building an indoor climbing wall in Poland, and hosting a climbing competition in an arena  59:30 – Waiting to be recognized as climbers, and the quarry in downtown Krakow  1:01:40 – Why Rifle?  1:05:06 – Meditating on the drive to Rifle, and commuting to climb in Poland  1:09:28 – Darek’s “dope” psych-up music, and sharing music w/ Dave Pegg  1:12:45 – Encouragement and self-talk  1:15:14 – Memories of Dave Pegg, and the new Rifle guidebook  1:24:37 – Rifle in the 90s, and Dave’s dedication  1:27:06 – ’Sprayathon’  1:31:28 – Rediscovering Lower Tier  1:38:16 – Movement vs. strength, and “there is always a way in Rifle”  1:41:45 – Kneebar pads and blue duct tape  1:48:58 – RendezSPEW event, and taking over duties from Dave  1:55:15 – Stewardship, and Dave’s legacy  2:04:28 – The bow and arrow  2:09:48 – Climbing his hardest route in his 50s, and excitement to push new ground  2:14:35 – Darek’s project during covid  2:17:38 – “What you eat matters”  2:25:30 – “It’s never too late”, and Stanislaw Lem  2:29:23 – “There is no good and bad”  2:32:38 – More about Darek’s project, and “Vitamin I”  2:41:16 – Trying the Anderson brother’s training program, feeling old injuries, and weighted pullups  2:49:15 – Homemade training weights (bolted rocks), and the magic of training  2:53:55 – Winter skiing and training plans  2:58:10 – Darek’s dry-tooling friend in Poland  3:05:05 – Gratitude  3:10:20 – “I am the mayor of Rifle, I know everybody!”  

In this episode, Steven thanks listeners for an amazing year and for supporting the podcast. He also shares some Christmas karaoke that he recorded in his van...Feedback Form:  thenuggetclimbing.com/feedback  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  

This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge.  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-2  Athletic Brewing:  Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers  Shop Athletic Brewing Beer  Nuggets:  1:54 – Leveling up from 12b to 14a  5:11 – Testing with Dr. Tyler Nelson, fast hands, and pinpointing weaknesses (finger and arm strength)  12:52 – How Alex trained arm strength, and why weighted pull-ups are “moot”  16:27 – Breakdown of AJ’s isometric arm strength session  20:26 – AJ’s typical strength session layout (bouldering, arm strength, finger strength)  21:43 – Breakdown of AJ’s finger strength session  25:05 – “Snatches” on a campus board for contact strength  28:48 – Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock Off Challenge  33:00 – Sending ‘The Muffler’ V12, and plans to go back to ‘The Swarm’  34:30 – Highballs  37:28 – AJ’s parting thoughts for her team kids, and “never be afraid to stand up for what you believe in”   42:07 – Outro  

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jasna Hodžić. We talked about the projecting process and Jasna’s notetaking process, what she learned from reflecting on ‘Voodoo’ 14b, and her considerations when choosing a new goal. We also talked about navigating climbing partnerships, and how to be honest upfront to avoid issues later.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:03:04.

Alex Johnson is a two-time world cup gold medalist and has been climbing at a professional level for a decade. We talked about sieging ‘The Swarm’ V13, her effort to qualify for the Olympics, telling an honest story, failing publicly, lessons from coaching, coming out as LGBTQ, learning about self-love from her partner Bree, and becoming a role model.  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-1  Athletic Brewing:  Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers  Shop Athletic Brewing Beer  Nuggets:  4:09 – Mr. Golden Sun  7:40 – Googly eyed elephant  8:36 – Fritz  10:50 – An amazing day in Yosemite with Fritz  13:06 – The 100 V10’s goal, and Alex’s approach to climbing  18:33 – Balancing hard projecting with volume  22:10 – Obsession over a single project, and volume bouldering games  26:06 – The Swarm, trying to qualify for the Olympics, and the vulnerability of failing publically  32:58 – Storytelling and sharing training ideas on social media, and starting to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson  39:45 – Comps vs. outdoor climbing, and “my heart is in rock climbing”  44:38 – Moving back home to coach, and how coaching lead AJ back to competing  49:36 – Practice vs. training vs. performance  52:26 – Balancing practice, training, and performance, and “going to the gym is practice”  55:00 – Practice drills, and working a boulder to learn vs. to send  1:00:13 – Combining training and practice sessions on the same day, 6x2s, and mock comp days  1:02:39 – “Always with intension”, lone-wolf garage sessions, and the vulnerability of training  1:06:40 – AJ’s go-to exercises on the home wall, and “You have to try hard to try hard”  1:09:47 – Coming out, Bree’s quote, and being a role model  1:19:04 – “Be who you needed when you were younger.”  1:19:19 – Gus Kenworthy  1:24:49 – Bree  1:28:56 – Learning about self-love  

My friend Trevor made shirts for The Nugget Climbing Podcast, and I am giving them away to some of you! Well, sort of...Learn more and reserve your shirt at thenuggetclimbing.com/giveaway

Chris Kalous is the host of the Enormocast and has been immersed in climbing for more than thirty years. We talked about training to be a climber in high school gym class, climbing mountains in New Zealand, soloing El Cap in winter, the infamous “Aid Rant” and the mythical grade of A6+, the ‘Freerider’, old-guy training, raising a kid, and the future of the Enormocast.   Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-kalous  Nuggets:  2:41 – Election hangover and my visit to Bonfire Coffee  5:14 – Growing up in the Midwest and reading about John Bachar in Outside Magazine  6:34 – Training for climbing in high school gym class  9:53 – First day of outdoor climbing at Horsetooth Reservoir, and the Outdoor Adventure Floor at CSU  12:15 – Guiding at Colorado Mountain School  15:07 – Chris’s first big international trip to Australia  20:06 – Becoming interested in climbing history, reading ‘Climb!’ cover-to-cover, and idolizing climbers from the 70s  22:29 – Aid climbing in the Fisher Towers  23:30 – Doing an exchange to NZ in ’91, moving to LA, moving away from ice climbing, and starting to climb in Yosemite  27:29 – Climbing A4 in the Fisher Towers, and early aid climbing on El Cap  30:43 – Solo aid climbing ‘Lost in America’ in winter, and aiding through a waterfall  38:33 – Getting down the east ledges in the snow, breaking “the rule”, and the aid climber’s mindset  41:33 – The ‘Aid Rant’, and a breakdown of aid climbing grades (A0 through A5)  47:07 – Aid climbing as an engineering and mental challenge  50:24 – Patron Question: What exactly might constitute the mythical grade of A6+?  51:28 – Patron Question: What is the best way to train for hard aid in a gym?  52:19 – Why Chris moved away from aid climbing  56:30 – How Chris thinks about introducing his son Miles to climbing  57:36 – The ‘Freerider’ chapter  1:06:01 – ‘Learning to Fly’, Didier Berthod, “The bolts don’t make the sport climbing”, and traddy tendencies  1:12:16 – Embracing Rifle, climbing ‘Cantina Boy’, and the mental game of sport climbing  1:16:49 – Back to ‘Learning to Fly’, the advice Chris got from Peewee Ouellet, and taping for finger cracks  1:20:40 – The Canadian Rockies chapter and the FA of ‘Premonition’  1:24:15 – Putting up a 10-pitch 13a in Wadi Rum  1:26:03 – Patron Question: How do you balance fatherhood and climbing? Any secret beta for a new father who would like to keep improving at climbing while being present in his daughter’s life?  1:29:22 – Navigating a relationship with kids, climbing with your partner, and date nights  1:34:08 – Training lessons from working with Kris Hampton (Odub)  1:36:53 – Training can be fun, and “you can do a lot less than you think and still see gains”  1:38:42 – A breadth of experiences, and how climbing harder opens up the world  1:41:11 – One wish about sponsorship and being a sponsored climber  1:43:24 – Hoping to go to Tagia in Morocco, getting shut down on ‘Golden Gate’, prioritizing friends and family in climbing  1:47:34 – The sale offer, and the future of the Enormocast  1:50:31 – The Runout podcast (Chris’s other podcast with Andrew Bisharat)  1:52:12 – Chris’s recommended Enormocast episodes  1:55:11 – Chris’s recommended Runout episodes  1:55:48 – Grateful for Carbondale, CO  1:57:35  – The gift of podcasting, and the guest wish list  2:02:14 – The Mobile Studio 2.0  

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Brittany Goris. We talked about her season in Vedauwoo and some of the top offwidth climbing techniques she learned, about onsighting her first 5.13 trad route in Indian Creek, about how she approaches gear selection and placement for hard splitter projects and onsight attempts, and about her growing finger sizes.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 30:50.

Dru Mack is a professional rock climber who spent his formative years in the Red River Gorge, and is now traveling full time pursuing hard sport climbing. Nat Gustafson sits in on our conversation to talk about hard projecting, tricks for maintaining power and finger strength, an update on “The List”, training recommendations, hype up songs, and Dru’s battle with ‘The Crew’ 5.14c in Rifle.  Support on Patreon:   patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dru-mack  Nuggets:  4:12 – Send Frosties vs. sad Frosties, DQ Blizzards, and steak dinners  6:01 – One “health day” per week, and crunches for beach abs  7:17 – Battling ‘The Crew’  9:14 – Project climbing vs. mixing it up, and “every project has a different process”  13:01 – ‘The Flame’, and going on bouldering trips to help his sport climbing  16:10 – Balancing performance climbing with Moonboard sessions, bouldering trips, and hangboarding  18:41 – Dru’s bouldering trip to Estes  19:55 – Bouldering sessions in the gym, and Is, Ys, and Ts  21:35 – Dru’s stretching practice  24:15 – The importance of  fun  26:28 – My breathing challenge from Ethan Pringle  30:07 – The theme I’ve noticed in top climbers through the podcast  31:28 – Introducing Nat, the prospect of shoulder surgery, and “decisions are always easier when they’re made for you”  34:14 – Question for Nat: What are some of the cultural differences you noticed (related to climbing) between Spain and the US? What can you attribute to higher climbing standards in Spain?  38:28 – The Spanish warmup  39:37 – Lessons from climbing with the Pou brothers  41:15 – Nat’s progression from 12d/13a to 5.14 in 3.5 years in Spain  42:31 – Nat’s challenges with the language barrier in Spain and feeling emotionally blunted  44:01 – “You don’t get over the fears.”  46:11 – Learning from friends  49:15 – Social media and room for mistakes and growth  57:37 – Lee and mentorship  1:03:30 – ‘Middle Child’  1:06:57 – Being “Lee” for some other kid someday  1:07:59 – Dru’s biggest weaknesses leaving the Red  1:09:45 – Dru’s first trip to Europe, climbing with J-Star, and doing ‘Fisheye’  1:11:32 – Getting lowered off the end of his rope, and “always getting better.”  1:13:41 – Plans to move to St. George, and what Dru is focusing on to continue getting better  1:15:36 – Dru’s mantras, little victories, and staying positive  1:18:06 – Update on “The List” (from J-Star), and campusing slabs at the VRG  1:22:18 – Stiff shoes and calf raises for kneebars  1:23:48 – Plans to continue “The List”, and balancing volume climbing with projecting  1:28:07 – 5.15?  1:32:51 – Moving to St. George, community, and balancing connection with solo time  1:39:54 – The book ‘Exhalation’  1:43:03 – Productivity vs. downtime, phones as a tool, and asking ourselves, “do I have the time to be entertained right now?”  1:46:37 – Shoutout to listeners! Thank you so much for your questions, seriously!  1:46:59 – Patron Question: What should I do to prepare for a trip to the Red? (given two to three months to prepare)  1:51:47 – Breaking down the “2x2” and the “3x3”  1:54:16 – Best angles to train on for the Red  1:55:03 – How to progress your training leading up to a trip to the Red  1:58:05 – Short summary of Red training  1:58:26 – Fingers and core, and Dru’s current approach to finger strength  2:01:18 – R&B and hype up music  2:03:16 – “Enjoy every second of it.”  2:05:44 – Gratitude for friends and supportive community  2:06:51 – “Would I be ok trying this route for a month and not doing it..?”, and last-ditch efforts on ‘The Crew’  2:09:17 – More gratitude, blue-point-thumb-wrestling, and basketball  2:11:50 – Send Frosty and donuts

Steven Dimmitt is the host of The Nugget Climbing Podcast. In this reverse interview, Ethan Pringle takes over and asks Steven about his upbringing, his path through climbing, and about starting the podcast. This episode also features questions from past guests on the show, asking Steven about some of his biggest mistakes, lessons learned, climbing heroes, and inner life.  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-dimmitt  Nuggets:  2:13 – Beef and veggie breakfast tacos   5:04 – Switching interview roles  6:49 – The early years and growing up in Wenatchee, WA  10:27 – Traveling as a kid, South America, and cockroaches  13:02 – Getting robbed in South America    15:22 – Parents, podcast hikes, and connecting through the podcast  20:40 – Piano lessons and threatening to cut my fingers off  22:13 – Music up through high school  26:01 – Going to college in Bellingham, majoring in music, and playing in (and living with) a band  29:30 – My first (and second) climbing experiences, and working at the climbing gym in college  34:01 – My first climbing trip to Bishop and climbing ‘The Hunk’  35:47 – Connecting with climbing and moving away from music after college, and a new excitement for music now  38:50 – Summer jobs in the fruit warehouses  43:53 – Working for the Forest Service, bouldering my first V0 through V10 (except V6) in Leavenworth, and discovering I had weak fingers in Joe’s Valley  45:31 – Learning how to sport climb at Equinox, and resonating with sport climbing  49:45 – Living in my Subaru after college to climb, Ten Sleep, the first Climb Strong Training Camp, and the ‘Superman’ video  53:20 – Visiting Bend/Smith for the first time, lacking purpose on the road, and moving there to work for Entre Prises (EP)  57:31 – Making climbing holds for EP, and working in aerospace   59:57 – The Adventures of Sloth blog and my uneventful 25th birthday  1:02:28 – Smith Rock, “eating your vegetables (with sand in them)”, and working in the grind  1:05:31 – My approach to training while working in Bend, my ‘Grinding’ blog post, following the (altered) Rock Prodigy program, and changing my tune   — [Guest Questions] —    1:11:45  – [Mike Doyle] What is the biggest mistake you’ve made in regards to training?  1:16:53 – [Drew Ruana] What inspired you to start the podcast?  1:24:32 – [Audrey Sniezek] What is the biggest challenge in producing a podcast?  1:25:51 – [Ian Yurdin] How has the podcast influenced your climbing? How is it a drain and/or boon for your climbing? Are you sending more since you started the podcast?  1:28:50 – [Bill Ramsey] When interviewing famous climbers how do you strike a balance between interviewing them for things they’re famous for and therefore have already been covered, and asking original questions that cover new ground?  1:30:37 – [Tonde Katiyo] You are a great listener. Do you think that is a personality trait or something that you’ve cultivated?  1:32:33 – [Charlie Manganiello] What’s the one thing you wish someone would have told you when you first started pursuing hard rock climbs?  1:36:09 – [Mike Kerzhner] If you could take a trip for a month with one climber, dead or alive, who would it be and where would you go?  1:37:11 – [Steve Bechtel] If you could only do one more hard route in your life, which one would it be? Why aren’t you trying it now?  1:38:59 – [Brittany Goris] If you could climb only on one type of rock (i.e. granite, sandstone, limestone, etc.) for the rest of your life, which one would it be and why?  1:39:59 – [Chad Andrews] What’s your ideal balance between meaningful work, travel, and climbing in the future?  1:42:11 – [Blake Cason] Describe a snapshot of a memorable climbing experience you’ve had.   — [Ethan’s Questions] —   1:46:56 – What is your inner life like? And do you think there is a discrepancy between how you seem to others and how you seem to yourself?  1:52:23 – What have you been especially grateful for lately?  1:57:30 – What does the word “God” mean to you?  2:07:36 – “Be kind to one another.”  2:11:55 – “Is a whale a fish or a mammal?”  

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Jonathan Siegrist. We talked about chasing weather in New England, about Jaws II, about the FA of ‘Nu World’ 5.15a/b, about the ‘Event Horizon’ project (the direct finish to ‘Nu World’), and about some of the strategies and tactics Jonathan uses when returning for a new round of attempts on a multi-season project.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 26:42.

Emily Harrington is a professional climber whose accomplishments span the climbing spectrum. From winning National Championships, to summiting Mt. Everest, to free climbing El Capitan, Emily has done it all. We talked about projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a day, partnering with Alex Honnold, embracing fear, eating to fuel your body, and cupcake batter ice cream.  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emily-harrington  Nuggets:  3:14  – Being at home, the next round of tries, and “it’s been a long process”  5:29 – Why Emily chose ‘Golden Gate’ in a day as a goal  10:21 – Emily’s preparation for ‘Golden Gate’ this season  13:22 – Partnering up with Alex Honnold  16:36 – Emily’s accident last fall, and recalibrating for this attempt  19:36 – Breakdown of ‘Golden Gate’ and least favorite pitches (the Hollow Flake/ all fo the downclimbs and offwidths)  23:18 – Climbing the Monster Offwidth and bumping a #6 that she’d forgotten to clip  23:56 – Emily’s favorite pitches on ‘Golden Gate’ (Golden Desert and A5)  24:45 – Footwear for El Cap, and converting to the TC Pro  27:29 – Conquering fear vs. embracing fear and using it as fuel  30:41 – Patron Question: Any tips or tactics for working through fear in the moment?  34:37 – Emily’s strategies for working through anxiety, and letting go of perfection  40:25 – Eating to fuel your body  41:26 – Transitioning into trad and big wall free climbing and Emily’s rollercoaster of emotions  43:58 – Rappelling El Cap to try a 20’ downclimb  46:15 – What Emily hopes to accomplish in her career and in her climbing  50:23 – Grateful to have a home  52:12 – Reggaeton  53:05 – Non-functional earrings  54:09 – Skittles and pancakes  54:38 – Naan  55:04 – Cupcake batter ice cream  

Hailey Franklin Fultz is a former competitive dancer, and a nutrition coach. For the past five years, she has used nutrition to help Matt Fultz (her husband) become one of the top boulderers in the world. We geeked out about all things nutrition: meal timing, protein synthesis, the role of carbs, supplements for climbers, strategies for fat loss, foods to avoid, navigating holidays, and Hailey’s favorite “healthified” treats.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hailey-franklin-fultz  Nuggets:  3:21 – Moving into the RV  6:34 – Travel plans, meeting in middle school, and holiday family time  8:16 – Rifle and potential plans to meet up  9:32 – Hailey’s background in dance, dabbling in climbing, and appreciating watching climbing  11:53 – Hailey’s history with ballet and dance, and growing a love for fitness and functional strength training   12:44 – Becoming interested in nutrition in college, starting OTG Strength with Matt, and every calorie as a “package of opportunity”  15:10 – Parallels between dancers and climbers in regards to nutritional needs  16:38 – Protein synthesis overview  20:22 – Strategies for optimizing protein synthesis, and planning meals around protein   21:45 – Hailey’s recommended daily protein amount (about 1.6 to 2.5 or 3 grams of protein per kg bodyweight per day—note 1 kg = 2.2 lbs)  25:57 – Hailey’s thoughts on supplements (the ingredient list should still look like food)  28:14 – Hailey’s pitch for people who feel reluctant to eat higher protein, and the many roles of amino acids  32:17 – Protein for pre-workout  33:58 – Hailey’s recommendations for peri-workout nutrition/crag food  36:40 – Alternatives to candy for quick energy at the cliff  40:31 – More recommendations related to food timing  43:46 – Shifting our eating around training blocks and energy needs  46:10 – Hailey’s supplement staples for climbers (fish oil and protein powder), and “supplements are meant to fill gaps”  48:23 – Herbs and adaptogens  50:08 – Vitamin D supplementation and food sources  53:18 – Hailey’s biggest bang-for-your-buck recommendations: more protein spread out throughout the day, and more fruits and vegetables  56:42 – Prioritizing complex carbohydrates and real food at the crag  57:51 – Hailey’s thoughts on individuality in nutrition  1:00:48 – Carbohydrate tolerance, the liver’s many jobs, and “carbohydrates are not evil”  1:06:25 – Foods/ingredients that everyone should avoid: artificial foods, food coloring, and trans fats (hydrogenated oils)  1:08:55 – Hailey’s thoughts on alcohol (she recommends keeping it to 1-2 drinks per week, and on rest days)  1:14:04 – Navigating holidays, proteinizing (or healthifying) desserts and treats, and prioritizing foods that are “worth it”  1:18:23 – “Guilt isn’t a topping”, and “If I don’t eat it all today, I can still have some of it tomorrow”  1:20:40 – “Weight has purpose”, Matt’s bulking/cutting/maintenance strategy, fat loss, and how to lose 5 lbs (of fat) to peak for a project (higher protein, slight calorie deficit, and fasted walks)  1:26:26 – Matt’s morning fasted walk (30-60 minutes at a fairly brisk pace, 2-3 times per week)  1:29:46 – How gradually to lose weight during a cutting phase  1:31:58 – Relaxing during “bulking” phases, and the beauty of building good nutrition habits   1:35:13 – Your taste palette changes  1:37:07 – Summary of the big nutritional takeaways  and Hailey’s emphasis (“calories and not evil, and they’re not created equal…”)  1:38:36 – What Hailey would say to her 20-year-old self, letting go of perfection, and the importance of sleep  1:40:47 – More about sleep  1:42:52 – Prioritization, saying “yes” and “no”, and “our best is worth a lot”  1:45:50 – Moving from Idaho to Salt Lake City, working at Sprouts in the vitamin department, and “honor the stepping stones”  1:49:02 – Morning routines  1:50:33 – Hailey’s current book and favorite nostalgic/grounding music  1:52:15 – Gratitude for kind people  1:53:12 – RV life and a new learning curve  1:53:54 – OTG Strength and what clients can expect if they work with Hailey and Matt. 1:57:50 – Hailey’s favorite treats from the ‘Hypnotized Minds’ cheat day with Matt  

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Drew Ruana. We talked about his process of sending 'Box Therapy' and 'Creature From the Black Lagoon', as well his process projecting 'The Grand Illusion', and plans for summer training.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 18:34.

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tonde Katiyo. We talked about RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, about the appropriate responses to different types of bouldering challenges, about the value and importance of route setting in a growing industry, about The Lab, and keeping training in perspective.  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-2  Nuggets:  2:18 – RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, and athletic empathy  10:39 – More about RIC and the appropriate response/attitude for each  20:22 – “We need to do better for setters”  29:26 – Drawing comparisons between setting and the restaurant industry, and indoor climbing as a soon-to-be billion-dollar industry  37:56 – The Lab  48:40 – Gratitude for the partners who support us  51:07 – Excited about climbing  54:31 – Recent favorite music  57:44 – Climbing projects  1:04:43 – Tonde’s request, and keeping training in perspective  

Tonde Katiyo is a professional route setter, a passionate climber, a father, and a coach. His mother is French and his father is Zimbabwean. We talked about the connection between route setting and coaching, about coaching Nathan Hadley, Sean Bailey, and Margo Hayes, about his discrimination and privilege resumés, about exposing his kids to risk, and about making better climbing to make a better world.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-1  Nuggets: 3:10 – The joys of parenting  4:34 – Tonde’s shitty gym session, the ratio of “good” to “bad” sessions, and collecting bad sessions  7:01 – Getting back in shape, Tonde’s “Level 1” goals, and climbing with Nathan Hadley  8:50 – Tonde’s current role at the Bouldering Project  9:56 – Getting hired, Tonde’s dream world, and the happy accident of circuit setting  15:05 – The problem with treating climbing grades as a fixed measurement  17:50 – Being talked into coaching Nathan Hadley, Sean Bailey, and Margo Hayes  22:16 – Tonde’s inside joke, emotion and intention, and speculation as to why those three athletes saught coughing from Tonde  24:42 – Learning to apply the appropriate amount of effort, the complexity of climbing, the mental and emotional boxes, and tweaking dials on the switchboard  29:34 – Learning who people are, and learning to say exactly the right thing at exactly the right time  32:13 – Tonde’s competition background, and how his experience competing and route setting has informed his coaching  36:39 – Asking competitors interesting questions through route setting, and the hand jam scandal  40:44 – Tonde’s training camps, the role of route setting in coaching, and helping athletes work through frustration and other emotions  48:03 – “How do you feel?”, and answering that question with honesty  51:34 – Working with Nathan on his footwork  56:14 – “Your climbing should resemble your personality”  58:44 – When our personalities work against us, winning competitions on your weaknesses rather than strengths, and the inconveniences of competitions vs. those of outdoor climbing  1:03:16 – Tonde’s discrimination and privilege resumes (see show notes for links to his Instagram posts)  1:13:20 – Patron Question: With the BLM protests and social change going on right now, has Tonde seen climbers trying to be more inclusive? Could we get some examples of people employing some good tact and also some bad tact?  1:18:59 – Hoping for a more tolerant world for his kids, and “better climbing makes better people, and better people will make a better world.”  1:23:14 – Patron Question: I would love to hear Tonde talk about being a dad, and also someone that participates in a potentially high consequence past time. How does he manage progression and risk of injury? How does he look at risk for himself, and how does he prepare to take on more risk to move the bar up a notch? How does he manage risk for his kids, and how does he introduce them to it in a healthy way?  1:30:55 – How Tonde thinks about introducing his kids to climbing, and hoping they find passion (even if it’s crocheting)  

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ethan Pringle. We talked about surfing, about the stories we tell ourselves about what we can and can’t do, about the biggest difference between Adam Ondra and everyone else, about Ethan’s projects in Northern California, and about my recent projects in Ten Sleep. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 51:13.

Matt Fultz is a professional climber who is at the top of the bouldering game right now. We talked about sending ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, a typical day of projecting, deadlifting for finger strength, prioritizing strength before weight, practicing like you play, Mad Rock shoes, using your build as a gift, and starting OTG Strength with his wife Hailey.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-fultz  Nuggets:  2:22 – The send McFlurry, and a well-earned “cheat day”  5:06 – ‘Hypnotized Minds’  5:41 – Matt’s active rest day before a project day, and warming up for V16  8:52 – Raising your body temp before climbing  9:39 – Splitting time between projects, active rest days in the gym, and crimping on Hypno  11:22 – What a project session looks like, and “I always go by feel”  14:01 – What the send session looked like, Matt’s send temps, and “the colder the better”  15:28 – Using your build as a gift, scrunch power, and working on weaknesses while taking advantage of strengths  18:22 – “Strength comes first”  18:52 – Balancing performance with training  21:38 – “Practice like you play”, climbing on boards, the role of weight lifting, and “the most important thing is climbing”  23:48 – Matt’s go-to weight-room exercises, and a teaser for OTG (more later in the episode)  24:03 – Deadlifting w/ Tension Blocks vs. hanging from a hangboard  26:48 – Matt’s grip selection for finger training, and grip training frequency (Off Season: every other day. Performance Season: once or twice per week)  29:07 – How Matt decides between the different boards he climbs on  30:52 – The importance of a strong support system  33:10 – Matt’s trip to Australia w/ Jimmy Webb, Paul Robinson, and Nalle Hukkataival, and bouldering with a new level of detail  35:07 – Nutrition timing, and planning meals around climbing, or vice versa  37:08 – Matt’s pre-workout meal  38:37 – The Mad Rock ‘Drones’  42:16 – Drones sizing (about 1.5 to 2 US sizes down from your street shoe)  44:50 – OTG Strength and how to train with Matt  49:24 – Balancing working/coaching with climbing  50:52 – Switching gears after ‘Hypnotized Minds’, project shopping, and climbing for fun  52:23 – Moving to CO and having access to a lot of hard boulders  53:40 – Dreams of van life  54:26 – Gratitude  55:30 – Where to connect with Matt  56:03 – Progressing every year, drawing inspiration from Jimmy Webb and Dave Graham, and goals  58:34 – The RV Moonboard  1:00:03 – “We will enjoy our Oreos today”  

Solomon Barth is a Stanford University graduate and software engineer. We talked about Solomon’s impressive two-week trip to Smith Rock, working with Alex Bridgewater to improve his footwork and bulletproof his fingers, training endurance using up-down-ups, veganism, working in tech, his desire to help make positive change in the world, and gunning for 5.15.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/solomon-barth  Nuggets:  2:29 – Solomon’s recent climbing trip, bad weather, and land hurricanes  3:49 – Back in the gym after COVID  5:11 – Solomon’s Smith Rock trip  10:56 – Tactics for flashing routes  14:29 – Being a training geek and reaching out to Climb Strong for coaching  16:54 – Working with Alex Bridgewater and bulletproofing his fingers on the hangboard  19:03 – Solomon’s experience with the Go-A-Hundred hangboard program  21:11 – Takeaways from working with Tyler Nelson on finger injury prevention, and why “active recovery is the only recovery” for pulleys and tendons  25:01 – Working on footwork with Alex  27:19 – Working on his weakness every session, and bookending sessions with slab climbing  30:37 – Solomon’s experience with alactic circuit training  35:07 – Up-down-ups with Maya Madere  39:31 – Up-down-ups specifics and clarifications  43:46 – Solomon’s thoughts on running and cardio  46:49 – Practicing pacing, and how Maya learned to climb faster  48:18 – Reigning in the volume  49:18 – Solomon’s experience and evolution with veganism  54:14 – The vegan alternative food that Solomon is most excited about right now  54:58 – Why Solomon doesn’t put much stock in nutrition, and letting go of sacrifices to perform better  57:27 – Rituals, and “climbing is just for fun”  58:41 – Book recommendation: ’Sacred Cow’ (link in show notes)  1:00:09 – Simon’s tech job, school vs. work, and studying computer science  1:02:51 – Balancing a full-time job with climbing, a desire to help make positive change, and taking time to learn more about the world  1:06:22 – Why Solomon feels that Social Media “wasn’t for him” and thoughts about the potential of becoming a professional climber  1:08:17 – Goal setting  1:10:31 – Plans to project 5.15?  1:11:19 – Margo Hayes, ‘La Rambla’, and shifting to sport climbing  1:13:54 – Jailhouse, kneebars, and projecting ‘The Green Mile’ with Conner Herson  1:17:46 – Using Jailhouse as a training ground, and kneerbar progress  1:20:48 – Plans for Maple and Rifle  1:21:29 – Gratitude  1:22:24 – Solomon’s two book recommendations (see show notes for links)  1:25:00 – “I guess I have an Instagram…”  

Simon Carter is an Australian photographer, and has been described by the editor of Rock and Ice Magazine as “arguably the greatest climbing photographer of all time”. We talked about building his first darkroom at age 15, pursuing full-time climbing in the early ’90s, action vs. landscape, camera equipment, the Taipan/Grampian closure, and Simon’s top 10 climbing photography tips.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-carter  Nuggets:  1:50– The 2018 World Climbing Calendar, and the Onsight Photography business  3:14 – Early photography, and building a darkroom in the family bathroom at age 15  5:10 – Changing schools for photography and discovering climbing  6:06 – Reading mountaineering books, Simon’s childhood nickname, early outdoor adventures, and getting obsessed with rock climbing  8:19 – Working at the Australian University and losing his passion for photography  10:56 – Night school, becoming disillusioned with professional photography, and traveling around Europe for six months  12:26 – Getting a degree in outdoor education, working in gear shops, and saving up money to climb full time  15:38 – Living at Mount Arapiles and rediscovering photography  17:43 – Living on the dole, starting a business, and early work success  19:35 – Climbing ‘Serpentine’ on the Taipan Wall  22:42 – How Simon balances his climbing with his photography  25:55 – Simon’s plea for new climbing photographers to take the time to learn rope systems to be efficient and safe  28:43 – Simon’s elaborate photo rig for Nikon  30:14 – The advantages of using a chest harness  32:57 – Simon’s preferred jumar rig  35:23 – Action and landscape, capturing nature, and “the one thing”  38:32 – How Simon prepares for a specific shot, and balancing preparation with spontaneity  42:10 – Fuji Velvia, color palettes, and switching to digital  43:41 – Spiders  44:01 – Simon’s current camera (Nikon Z6), and mirrorless cameras  45:15 – Simon’s standard lens kit (see show notes for list)  46:07 – Shifting to more guidebook production  47:41 – The Red River Gorge guidebook, and a new way of presenting information  50:51 – The select and full guidebook publication dates, and why the Red is at the top of Simon’s list for climbing destinations  52:02 – Simon’s favorite international climbing areas, the Blue Mountains, a trip to Madagascar, and “what I love about climbing”  54:01 – Update on the Taipan Wall and Grampians closure and access issues  1:03:06 – The new management plan for the Grampians  1:03:40 – What we can do to help save the Grampians (see show notes for links)  1:05:28 – Why Simon is thinking about writing about about the Grampians issue, cultural surveys, and commercialization  1:08:48 – Capturing moments of people’s lives and “it’s about people”  1:11:08 – Simon’s top 10 photography tips (see show notes for a list and a link to an article)  1:15:14 – Getting the fitness back  1:15:45 – Gratitude  1:16:45 – Working on a guidebook to Sydney, putting work out there, and getting feedback  1:18:37 – Where to connect with Simon  1:19:05 – Wold Climbing Calender 2022?  1:21:37 – The real reason Chris Sharma sent ‘La Dura Dura’  

Charlie Manganiello has been coaching with Climb Strong for seven years and now heads the Elemental Strength program in Lander, WY. We talked about focusing all of your energy on one thing, misconceptions about deadlifting, maintenance strength training, Charlie’s go-to hangboard protocol, why climbing is important, and keeping things in perspective.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-manganiello  Nuggets:  1:28 – Breakfast  2:32 – Early strength training, transitioning from multisport athlete to focused climber, and taking things “all the way”  10:07 – Outliers, and asking ourselves “how good could I be if I focused all my energy on one thing”  11:24 – stated goals vs. action, and the coaches role  12:24 – Cushy sport climbing  14:02 – How Charlie’s early strength training translated to climbing  15:49 – Cross pollinated athletes, the 75/25 rule, and  being “strong enough”  18:24 – The benefits of going deep into strength training, “it’s not bodybuilding”, and the myth of gaining mass  20:37 – Connective tissue adaptation, motor recruitment, and becoming a more functional human  21:26 – Balancing the pull with the push  23:07 – Deadlifting, running, and learning through experience  27:05 – Treating your recovery like a workout, and watching climbing videos  29:00 – Deadlifting 400 lbs  32:40 – Charlie’s strength maintenance routine  34:08 – Misconceptions about the deadlift, magic bullets, and the posterior chain  38:17 – Deadlift numbers to shoot for, and the line between strength training for climbing vs. becoming a strength athlete  42:13 – Using the weight room to stay in the game  44:40 – Low hanging fruit: a few simple ways to climb harder (and why strength isn’t everything)  47:45 – “Train general to improve specific.”  49:15 – Increasing the push for healthy shoulders and a stronger pull  50:50 – Mobility  51:34 – Lower body explosiveness, and foot-on campus doubles  54:43 – Unilateral lower-body training  55:35 – The Bottoms-up Turkish Getup (with a glass of water balanced on top)  58:52 – The ideal vs. working with what you have  1:00:40 – Carryover from crushing grip strength to climbing?  1:03:01 – Charlie’s go-to hangboard protocol  1:06:20 – Charlie’s thoughts on 7:13 repeaters and when to do them  1:07:21 – “You’re either training or you’re performing. You can’t do both.”  1:08:47 – Strength maintenance at the end of a performance day  1:09:33 – “Climbing is really important to people.”  1:10:59 – Keeping climbing in perspective, but not letting go of it completely  1:15:33 – Self-talk, lessons from golf, and putting our negativity away  1:17:38 – “This is where I’m at.”  

Alex Bridgewater is a high-level rock climber who moved to Lander, WY in 2016, to train at Elemental as part of the Climb Strong Program. Alex now works for Climb Strong as a coach. We talked about his transition into coaching, managing a chronic back injury, favorite barbell and bodyweight exercises, speed walking, and the importance of self-belief.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-bridgewater  Nuggets:  1:26 – Skating, early climbing, competing, and mentors  5:46 – Climbing in college and meeting Charlie’s brother Mike  7:27 – Alex’s first time swinging a kettlebell  8:26 – Plans for the ‘PreMuir’, and starting to train with Charlie  11:49 – Coming to Lander and learning about strength training  13:41 – Learning on the fly on the side of El Cap  16:21 – Getting sold on training, moving to Lander, and getting started with Climb Strong  22:15 – Discipline, second-tier routes, and volume days  25:04 – Kettlebell swings, and Alex’s back injury  28:53 – Setting the goal of being injury-free for a year  29:32 – The exercises that made the biggest difference for Alex’s own climbing  32:41 – Unilateral vs. bilateral exercises, Zercher squats, and goblet squats   39:02 – Kettlebells for climbers with limited overhead mobility, and bodyweight strength training  40:45 – Example bodyweight exercises, and handstand pushup progressions  43:02 – Alex’s experience at the Strong First bodyweight certification, and benefits of bodyweight strength training  45:43 – One arm one leg pushups, and body awareness and control  47:48 – Reading Stuart McGill and fixing his back with core exercises and speed walking  50:57 – The McGill Big Three  51:43 – More speed walking  53:40 – Alex’s current training, barbell overhead press, and deadlifting from blocks  57:12 – Alex’s most recent hangboard cycle (Ladder program with two grips)  1:00:16 – Current climbing projects, and the history behind ‘Fibinachi Shimmer’  1:02:26 – Alex’s takeaways from the training camp  1:08:53 – The one piece of advice Alex took away from Jonathan’s presentation  1:11:55 – Alex’s future with Climb Strong, and Climb Strong as a collective  1:14:08 – One thing that holds us back, the importance of taking the steps, and pushing ourselves  1:16:43 – Social media, “can’t”, and confidence  1:17:43 – Carlo Traversi’s insight  1:18:42 – Positivity  1:20:10 – “Just go up there and try”, a becoming a better person  1:21:54 – “To the death.”  1:23:14 – Showing emotion, “Leave it up there”, and try hard  

This is a mashup episode from the 2020 Climb Strong Training Camp. We talked about hangboard training, strength as a skill, climbing performance, takeaways from the training camp, and lessons learned from coaching athletes. Featuring: Chrissy Vadovszki, Jonathan Siegrist, Ken Klein, Carly Cain, Alex Bridgewater, Kathryn Perkinson, Charlie Manganiello, and Amanda Sempert.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/climb-strong-team  Nuggets:  [Chrissy Vadovszki]  1:37 – Introduction  1:50 – Getting the team together and refreshing principles  3:32 – Strength is safety, “the strongest person isn’t the best climber”, and prioritizing sending  6:17  – Reflecting on the redpoint process, lessons from listening to Jonathan, and the vulnerability of second-tier projects  8:41 – Definition of Second Tier routes  9:21 – Paired exercises, and stoking the fire  10:27 – Chrissy’s take on the value for participants  [Jonathan Siegrist]  12:13 – Introduction  12:35 – Jonathan’s mountain biking crash, shoulder injury, and recovery  19:04 – The goal is to clip chains, losing the plot, and getting to 100% try hard  22:35 – Stacking the odds in his favor, some of Jonathan’s strategies for success, and removing pressure  24:31 – Jonathan’s takeaways from the weekend  [Ken Klein]  26:12 – Introduction  27:06 – Coffee for breakfast  29:09 – “Climbing is magic.”  30:57 – Why Ken thinks the word “impossible” gets used too much in climbing  33:07 – We all experience the same feeling, and the satisfaction of seeing people try hard  34:13 – Ken’s ‘perfect repeat’ drill he uses with newer climbers, and balancing repetition with trying harder moves  38:09 – The One-Touch drill  40:17 – Jonathan’s three-month breakdown  41:52 – Rock sense, and a reminder to do more rock climbing  44:16 – Hangboarding, 7:3, 7:13, and 6:10 repeaters, and max hangs  48:27 – Hold size and crimping on the hangboard  51:40 – Decreasing edge size vs. adding load  52:05 – Strength repeaters vs. max hangs, and the four-burner stove  54:59 – How Ken thinks about different fingerboard protocols depending on the climber and their goals  56:53 – “Three steps forward one step back.”   1:02:59 – Clarification about progressing hangboard sessions  1:04:28 – Owning the weight  [Carly Cain]  1:05:54 – Introduction  1:06:06 – Working with a 16-year-old girl at the training camp   1:08:31 – Getting more comfortable with failing   1:10:44 – Reframing  1:12:08 – Learning to love bouldering  1:13:05 – Life is a work in progress  1:14:38 – Rifle!  [Alex Bridgewater]  1:15:58 – Introduction  1:16:12 – One thing that holds us back, the importance of taking the steps, and pushing ourselves  1:18:47 – Social media, “can’t”, and confidence  1:19:48 – Carlo Traversi’s insight  1:20:47 – Positivity  1:22:14 – “Just go up there and try”, a becoming a better person  1:23:59 – “To the death.”  1:25:20 – Showing emotion, “Leave it up there”, and try hard  [Kathryn Perkinson]  1:27:37 – Introduction  1:27:47 – Coffee for breakfast (again), fresh-baked bread, and breakfast moves  1:28:40 – Moving to Lander, working with Steve as an athlete, and joining the coaching team  1:30:06 – Philosophy  1:30:43 – Participating in the training camp  1:32:02 – Managing a finger injury as a coach  1:33:02 – A helpful reminder  1:34:08 – “We are all far more capable and more powerful than we can imagine.”  1:35:35 – “Climb second-tier routes.”  [Charlie Manganiello]  1:36:43 – Introduction  1:37:03 – “Climbing is really important to people.”  1:38:29 – Keeping climbing in perspective, but not letting go of it completely  1:42:03 – Self-talk, lessons from golf, and putting our negativity away  1:45:08 – “This is where I’m at.”  [Amanda Sempert]  1:48:07 – Introduction  1:48:39 – Kettlebell press, tension techniques, and energy links  1:51:08 – Hardstyle plank  1:53:47 – Kettlebell press cues  1:56:23 – The zipup drill, and practicing tension  1:59:00 – The ‘Quicken The Dead’ program, and trying alactic training  [Outro]  2:01:37 – Gratitude, and how to support the podcast