EP 163: Johnny Dawes — Legendary No-Hands Climbs, How to Master Footwork, and Life Lessons From Omelets to Icebergs
Johnny Dawes is a legendary British rock climber known for his exceptional footwork and unique dynamic style. We talked about his first ascent of Indian Face (the first-ever E9) when it was likely the most dangerous route in the world, climbing 5.13b (8a) slabs without using his hands, tips for mastering footwork, his writing practice and current book project, and life lessons involving three-legged stools, omelets, pasta, icebergs, and more.Watch This Video!Johnny's 7-Minute Video on The GuardianCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/johnny-dawesNuggets:0:04:22 – A couple of fun stories from our past lives0:08:01 – Having a blue day, dicking about, and thoughts on what he wants to accomplish in his life0:10:25 – The head, the heart, and the gut0:11:22 – Knowing where you’re going, the water bottle, and the grannies0:15:51 – Why I was so excited to talk with Johnny0:17:24 – Crawling out the driver's window of his car with a brick on the accelerator0:21:42 – Breaking down one of his legendary no-hand climbs (watch the Guardian video!)0:26:35 – Johnny’s ideal staircase, and flattening the world to flatter our egos0:30:07 – Bolts and baked potatoes0:32:04 – Johnny’s thoughts about modern bouldering, and being impressed with Shawn Raboutou0:33:38 – Chess problems, eyes bigger than tummy, and what brought the best out of Johnny in his climbing0:37:55 – Sticking an 8A (V11) hang on two terrible holds0:42:06 – What Johnny looks for in climbing, and the musicality of climbing0:52:04 – Hank Pascal0:53:27 – Watchin Jerry Moffatt climb Masters Wall, and why Johnny felt compelled to climb Indian Face, the world’s first E91:01:09 – North Wales, the apple tree, and wanting to be a part of the history of the sport1:10:01 – Sending Indian Face, partying at the disco, trying The Meltdown 9a, and some of Johnny’s recent new routes at Cloggy1:15:19 – Breakdown of the difficulty and gear on Indian Face, and how it got its name1:20:36 – Kurt Albert on the escalator1:23:59 – Patron comment from Artjom, and no-hands tips and exercises from Johnny1:27:48 – The hardest things Johnny has climbed without his hands, and climbing 1600+ “walks” in Britain1:31:15 – Spectacular Walks on British Rock1:32:38 – Making grip1:35:47 – How no-hands climbing applies to hard technical rock climbing1:37:55 – How Johnny Dawes approaches improving footwork1:41:19 – Writing the Footwork Handbook1:43:38 – His autobiography, his writing practice, and the mysteries of consciousness1:47:58 – Zen and the Art of Archery1:51:03 – A window into being alive, and games that keep you present1:53:12 – “Your enthusiasm tells you who you are”, and climbing in gardening gloves1:55:19 – Patron question from Will: What climbers inspired Johnny early on?1:57:50 – Music, writing, and artistic inspirations1:58:40 – Who does Johnny pay attention to these days in climbing?2:01:05 – Patron question from Nick: What do you think climbing will or should look like in another 30 years?2:03:12 – Climbing shoe evolution, and the world’s strongest man2:05:19 – Life lessons with Johnny Dawes, the three-legged stool, and making omelets and pasta2:12:20 – Formative causation2:14:19 – Go to bed when you’re tired, and treat people like icebergs2:15:35 – “It is never too late to be who you might have been.”2:19:37 – Roof man, and being useless2:22:12 – Reading Jeff Smoot’s book, and why humans do dangerous things2:25:22 – Wanting to do impossible things, and “modern life can go f*** itself”2:26:57 – “Can I go?”
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