Yes, because now the habits have changed.Completely.Because once you ate less outside, I imagine.So at the restaurants maybe you couldn't order a glass at a time.
Instead at home you open that bottle and then from the beginning to the end, especially if you are a couple, two people, you try to finish that bottle.
I must say that for us, now, even Rode and Choumery,
Warning.Warning.This podcast contains information in Italian language.I repeat, this podcast contains information in Italian.Chin-chin.
Welcome to this special Everybody Needs a Bit of Scienza edition of the Italian Wine Podcast.Here's the premise.Benitali International Academy community members send us their questions for VIA Chief Scientist Professor Attio Scienza.
We record his answers.And Stevie Kim tries to keep him in line.Sometimes it works.Thank you for listening.
Hello, everybody.My name's Stevie Kim and welcome back to Italian Wine Podcast. for another episode of Everybody Needs a Bit of Shinsa.And today's question comes from Mikela Aru.
When talking about how to pair wine and food, we often refer to how it makes sense to be guided by locality.Pairing local wines with local foods, cultural aspects play an important role, but could you explain the importance of agronomic
and geographical aspects.Long question.Quando si parla di come abbinare il vino e il cibo, spesso si fa riferimento a come sia sensato farsi guidare dalla località.Accostare vini locali con cibi locali.
Gli aspetti culturali hanno un ruolo fondamentale, ma potrebbe approfondire il peso degli aspetti agronomici e geografici.Cosa dici, Attilio?
Wine and food is certainly a phenomenon of recent discovery.Why do you think so?Because only in aristocratic cuisines you ate and drank a certain kind of wine.
I have to say that the first experiences of this menu, in which it was written, next to the food, also the corresponding wine, are, I would say, not so much French as Russian.It is the Russian penisal that emphasizes
These ways of cooking give importance to dishes, forks, knives, to a certain mise-en-place that was not present in the nobility. of Alizar gave this merit to have really given an important role to the lunches.
Well, Venice, for example, beyond the Russian experience, when it made the big lunches in 600, 500, up to 700, when the nobles from all over the world arrived in Venice, practically, organized very important dinners.
But the Venetian cuisine was a cuisine of clear oriental inspiration.For them, the real cuisine was a cuisine that came from the regions of Greece, Turkey, where there was a great use of spices.It was a cuisine of spices.Back then, a rich cuisine
It was the kitchen of the spices, it wasn't the kitchen made of wild meat, etc.But what gave the touch, in particular, were the spices.Because very often the spices covered the great conservation defects, both of the fish and of the meat.
So with the spices you could prolong the consumption of these goods that otherwise would have smelled bad. For example, Venice used to open big lunches with a sweet aperitif, with a marzipan dessert.
The marzipan dessert was a typically Orthodox thing in Turkey, at the time of Byzantium, and it was accompanied by this sweet food,
Many menus of that period brought back, above all, sweet wines, Malvasia, Moscato, even foreign wines such as Torcaia, etc.So the custom at that time was not to associate meat with a red wine, fish with a white wine,
to be able to use the use of spices in a certain way with a wine that could be associated with these spices.
Because if I have a very spicy food and then I use a wine that is not particularly flavored, in the end the food covers the flavor of the wine.So a sweet wine, a passed wine, could blend very well with the taste of the spices.
The use of a certain food to accompany a wine is much more recent.It belongs to the old French regime, to the period that precedes the French Revolution, between the 1700s and the 1800s.
When in France all these small nobilities developed, each of them had a chef who made a rather sophisticated cuisine.
And of course those who were in Borgogna used wine from Borgogna, those who were in Bordeaux used wine from Bordeaux, and those who were in Loire used wine from Loire, also because the food of these territories were quite characteristic foods.
It wasn't like now, the use of moving a lot of raw materials.Back then, the meat was from the local animals, it was very wild.The fish was from the rivers and lakes.Certainly, the fish that came from the Mediterranean didn't arrive in Borgogna.
So, the food was quite rare, and the wine was that. the white wines of Chardonnay or Bourgogne or the Russian wines of Pinot Nero.Things have changed substantially when there was this globalization of cuisine and wine.
When in the West came all the oriental cuisines, when in the West began to make a fusion of cuisines that did not belong to a European tradition, with strange flavors, raw fish was not eaten, for example, in Mediterranean cuisine, raw fish was never eaten.
Curiously, Japanese cuisine has opened up the use of raw fish in the Mediterranean and in the West, and naturally this has led to a choice of wines that are very different.
In the Italian or French bourgeoisie, the habit was to have only one wine on the table. You have never eaten with two or three wines.
No, in fact I wanted to get to this too.
When there was meat, you ate with red wine.When there was fish, you ate with white wine.But it's not that I was the first with white wine, sparkling.Absolutely.
There was much more simplicity, much more linearity in the relationship between food and wine.
It was also used to clean the mouth, to enhance the taste of the meat or the fish, but it certainly didn't have to be something that overlapped with the food.
When things changed, with these new cuisines, with these new flavors, with the young people, etc.,
From the moment you don't eat together anymore, in a family, and therefore there is no longer the custom of drinking a wine, everyone can do what they want.
Everyone can now associate a spigola with a red wine, rather than, I don't know, a vitello with a big white wine for that.So these rigid rules that existed in the past are no longer there.
with a lot of space between associations and the most curious.People have fun at this point almost finding strange marriages between food and wine. It's good, it's an important and positive thing.
It helps to open the mind a bit more, but also to stimulate an interest for new wines, because otherwise we would always drink the usual red wine, the usual white wine, the usual sparkling wine.
Now, instead, this allows us to broaden the choice of wines a lot, and therefore also to accompany them with various foods.Yes, because now the habits have changed.
Once you ate less outside, I imagine, so at the restaurants you couldn't order a glass at a time.Instead, at home, you open that bottle and from the beginning to the end, especially if it's a couple, two people, you try to finish that bottle.
I have to say that for us, even the sommelier role no longer exists.Because once, in the 50s and 60s, Internet Finger legs in Long Island
There are territories where you can make a precise relationship between wine and food, but most of the world, Shanghai, Beijing, Tokyo, Los Angeles, there are no wine territories.
There are extraordinary cuisines that are now detached from the culinary tradition of that place.
Cuisines that are a fusion of many... There is Japanese cuisine together with Indian cuisine, and then there is Italian cuisine together with American cuisine.You put meat and pizza together.At that point, how can you say, let's say,
For example, all the oriental cuisine, Japanese cuisine, Chinese cuisine, cuisines that have always used alcoholic beverages, very often to accompany the food, a tea, a herbal tea, putting together these cuisines with these spices, especially, I don't know, the Chinese cuisine, the Meridional, the cuisine close to the sea, where many spices are used, how do you do it?
How do you put it together? It's not easy, I don't know, I tried once in China to drink a Barolo with the meat that they make, the pork, a little sweetened with these sauces, it's impossible, it's an incredible thing.
All the culture of the association CiboVino is valid in traditional places, in osterias, in places where people eat like they used to, but most of the society doesn't live in that way anymore.In fact, Michiel has a follow-up to this question.
The concept is that, for example, to have some rusticini di ovino raised in Abruzzo and to be able to combine them with a Montepulciano neo-Zealandese or a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.
The fact is that the grapes used for the wine and the ingredients of the dish combined with it are products
in the same territory, a very long question, sharing the exact climate and with the commitment of the same soils, water and nutrients in general.How much and how does it influence the obtaining of compatible organoleptic properties?
Long question, short answer.
Yes, in fact, it's a very long question that, for us, confronts the bad knowledge that we all have of the particular characteristics of a wine.I challenge many people
to define what a real Montepulciano is, what are the characteristics of a Montepulciano.
If one goes to Abruzzo now and starts to go in the highest areas towards the Maiella, in the lower areas towards the sea, and tastes all these Montepulciano, there are not two that look alike.
So I can ask, what is the Montepulciano of Abruzzo that is best for articini?The one that is produced in the highest areas.
So we have to be very careful to go into detail, because the variability of the wine offer abroad, even in Montepulciano, is so varied that there isn't just one Montepulciano, there are many Montepulcianos. Okay, and that is all for today.
Another episode of Everybody Needs a Bit of Shansa.
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Thank you for joining us today. Thank you for your question, Michela.And till next time.Ciao ragazzi.Arrivederci a tutti.Bye bye.Bye bye.
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