In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the rise of celebrity lookalike contests, YSL's Proustian fantasy films, recent literary scoop on Cormac McCarthy, the extension of Brat into the deep dark winter, and all things Wicked from the uncanny Hollyweird sapphism of its press tour to the inescapability of its garish color scheme in consumer products. Links: Saint Laurent – AS TIME GOES BYMarc Jacobs reading selfiesEmma Chamberlain for Warby ParkerCelebrity lookalike contests in CNN"Aquarius" from Hair (movie adaptation)Wicked costume design breakdown – InStyleGwyneth Paltrow wins Best Actress – 1999 Oscars Mr. Golightly's "Who Sang It Best" YouTube playlist"Cormac McCarthy’s Secret Muse Breaks Her Silence After Half a Century" by Vincenzo Barney – Vanity FairDidion & Babitz by Lili Anolik – Interview Charli xcx Opening Monologue – Saturday Night LiveJake Paul vs. Mike Tyson post-fight speechMiley Cyrus on her upcoming album Something Beautiful – Harper's Bazaar

In this week's episode, we are honored to talk with dancer Lexee Smith, one of the most captivating and quietly influential figures in contemporary pop culture. Fresh off the heels of her crazy month of newly released projects, including Addison Rae's "Aquamarine" and Lady Gaga's "Disease," Lexee joins us to discuss her approach to dance, performance, and style. We talk about showgirls, video vixens, Clarice Lispector, Dance Moms, Parisian elegance, unhinged warmups, the Age of Aquarius, insane asylums, and much more. Special thanks to Death to Stock! Use code "Nymphet" to get 20% off your first 12 months. Visit Death to Stock here!Links: Image board@lexeesmith on InstagramDamiano David – Born With a Broken Heart (Music Video) "You Were Meant for Me" from Singing in the Rain Lady Gaga – Disease (Music Video)Addison Rae – Aquamarine (Music Video) Addison Rae – Aquamarine (Behind the Scenes) "The American Modern Dancer: Loïe Fuller and Isadora Duncan" Martha Graham – Lamentation (1943) All His Jazz: The Life and Death of Bob Fosse by Martin Gottfried A Look at Halston’s Historic Costumes for Martha Graham Dance Company – VogueMy Boyfriend's Back – Molly Long ChoreographyMassive Attack, Young Fathers – Voodoo in My Blood (Music Video) 

In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the double-release of Addison Rae’s “Aquamarine” and Lady Gaga’s “Disease,” Lexee Smith as Hollywood’s body double Rasputin, the “Dirty Cash” effect, the pros and cons of Gay Halloween, the triumph of the Dodgers, Slavic Dolls versus Brazilian Bombshells, and more.Full episode available here <3Links: Lady Gaga - Disease (Official Music Video)Addison Rae - Aquamarine (Official Music Video)Dirty Cash (Money Talks) videos on TikTok Shawn Mendes opens up about his sexuality, in a wayShawn Mendes Interview featureian - Sh*t Sad (Feat. Chief Keef) (Official Music Video)Barack Obama on DeepCut with VicBlendsSlavic Dolls vs. Brazilian Bombshells videos on TikTokSaturday Night Live TikTok skitYoung Posse (영파씨) - Ate That (Official Music Video)

In this Halloween centennial special, we have the sublime honor of being joined by one of our all-time heroes Valerie Steele, fashion studies trailblazer and director of the Museum at FIT, to discuss all things Gothic, inspired by her seminal book Gothic: Dark Glamour. We explore the aesthetic’s medieval origins and trace its cultural evolution through literature, art, and architecture all the way to the rise of the Goth subculture in the 1970s and beyond, covering Victorian dandies, sexy vampires, McQueen skull scarves, Japanese couturiers, and more. Thanks so much to Valerie for joining us! Links: Image boardThe Museum at the Fashion Institute of TechnologyGothic: Dark Glamour by Valerie Steele and Jennifer ParkGothic: Dark Glamour exhibition at MFIT on Google Arts & CultureCarmilla by Joseph Sheridan le FanuGoth Talk: Christina Ricci - Saturday Night Live“Very Mad, Very Maudlin, Very Macabre: It’s Showtime for the Goth Revival” by Tish Weinstock for VogueHow to Be a Goth: Notes on Undead Style by Tish Weinstock

In this week's episode, we're joined by the inimitable Emma Glenn Baker, NYC personal trainer and host of the podcast STARGIRL, to discuss all things body and the cultural status of fitness as it relates to body, brand, and spirit. We discuss activewear power players from Gymshark to Lululemon to Skims, the rise of the erotic fitness-inspired editorials, the sublime embodiment of Gen Z sweethearts Livvy Dunne and Addison Rae, the spiritual consequences of a life lived in stretchy clothes, and more. Listen to STARGIRL, join the Patreon, and follow Emma on IG!Links: “Athleisure, barre, and kale: the tyranny of the ideal woman” by Jia Tolentino in The GuardianToxic gym motivation trend on TikTok “Make Yourself a Gift” by Emma Glenn Baker in Real LifeEquinox “Want It All” ad campaignThe Official Gymshark Story“Musclebound” in A Dedicated Follower of Fashion by Holly Brubach

In this week's episode, we define the Pastel Protestant Grandmother aesthetic, a cozy visual universe recognizable to anyone belonging to the American Middle Class, or anyone who's ever been to an antique store in America. We discuss the hypnotic sedation of low-definition media, nostalgia-based commodities from Precious Moments figurines to dusty dollhouses, anti-intellectualism and sentimentality in American culture, the social history of craft, Christian kitsch and camp, the dark side of elderly matriarchs, and more.  LinksImage boardPastel Protestant Grandma – Our Official Playlist! Anti-Intellectualism in American Life – Richard HofstadterRed Hat Society”The Forgotten Everyday Origins of ‘Craft’” – Sarah Archer Cræft: An Inquiry into the Origins and True Meaning of Traditional Crafts – Alexander LanglandsHobbies: Leisure and the Culture of Work in America – Steven M. Gelber“Do Protestants Have a ‘Low’ Aesthetic?” – Front Porch Republic“A Defense of Christian Kitsch” – Paul GriffithsGaither Music on TikTokListen to exclusive episodes here <3

In this edition of Study Break, we discuss Mel Ottenberg's new denim line and its adjacent clean boy creepshot visuals, the two-pronged cultural force of the Sweat/Short 'n' Sweet tours, our prediction for Disney adult chic following Coperni's S/S '25 show, Lady Gaga's disastrous Harlequin styling and Ryan Murphy's indelible impact, Dark Brainrot and weirdcore developments, recent cinematic triumphs including Megalopolis and The Substance, and more. Links: Club Mel – Mel by RE/DONE TikTok King Bach Buquen is Hot, Viral, and French – Interview Sabrina Carpenter's Short 'n' Sweet Tour – Rolling Stone Gracie ABramS Coperni Spring/Summer 2025 at Disneyland Paris Coperni Vinted Disney merch controversy Chloé Spring/Summer 2025 Joker Folie à Deux x Louvre – Lady Gaga, Mona Lisa   Francis Ford Coppola explains the origin behind "Wow Platinum" Aubrey Plaza vs. Patti Lupone – Hot Ones Versus Smartschoolboy9 – An Internet Rabbit Hole Mr. Prada Murder Trial At New York Fashion Week, Designers Search for America – AnOtherHurricane Helene Relief Efforts:North Carolina Disaster Relief FundOne SC FundUNC Asheville Disaster Relief

Full episode available  here <3In this week's episode, we ascend the great champagne tower of history and proclaim the existence of Continental Luxury, an evocative aspirational aesthetic that has bewitched the palates of tastemakers across generations. We discuss the history of luxury hotels, the evolution of the boutique hospitality industry, Old World cuisine and interiors as status symbols, and we summon a cast of characters including Anthony Bourdain, Nancy Drew, and Keith McNally to unpack the oyster-laden, gold-trimmed, cherry-garnished lifestyle of our collective dreams. Links: Image boardRitz and Escoffier: The Hotelier, the Chef, and the Rise of the Leisure Class by Luke Barr"Towards a Political Geography of Hotels" by Ruth Craggs"A Legend as Big as the Ritz" – Vanity FairCésar Ritz: Life and Work by Chastonay, AdalbertThe History of Tourism: Structures on the Path to Modernity – Institute of European HistoryThe Tourist: A New Theory of the Leisure Class by Dean MacCannell “The Social and Material Life of Colonial Hotels" by Maurizio Peleggio Hotel: An American History by A. K. Sandoval-StrauszHome on the Rails: Women, the Railroad, and the Rise of Public Domesticity by Amy G. RichterThe romantic journey; the story of Thomas Cook and Victorian travelTravel influencer rice farm controversy in The Daily Mail"The World's Revolt Against 'Bad Tourists'" – BBC

In this episode, we investigate the cultural landscape of the 1990s with the help of a most legendary guest: NYT pop music critic and Popcast host Jon Caramanica. We discuss slackerism and authenticity discourse, the rise of alternative and independent media, the intricacies of subcultural style, the twin flames of rock and hip-hop, the surprising parallels between Gen X and Gen Z, white rappers, child rappers, Tommy Hilfiger grails, and much more. Links: Listen to PopcastJon on InstagramLady Gaga on the Doritos #BoldStage at SXSW, 2014How SoundScan Changed Music Charts – BillboardPop Music's Middle Class by Shaad D'Souza – New York TimesIce Spice vs. Cleopatra Drama Explained – Rolling Stone 

In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the most pressing topics facing fashion and culture, featuring analysis of Sabrina Carpenter’s grindhouse pinup comeback, Addison Rae's arthouse cult single "Diet Pepsi," reflection on Simon Porte Jacquemus's legacy (and speculation on his rise to the Chanel throne), Hollister nostalgia-baiting, global fashion updates from the UK and Mexico, and more.Links:Sabrina Carpenter's Short n' Sweet – Video Playlist"Diet Pepsi" by Addison Rae (dir. Sean Price Williams)"Breakaway" by Bruce ConnorThe Birthday Party by Harold PinterChanel's New Kaiser – Lauren Sherman for Puck NewsHollister long-sleeve babydoll tops on TikTok"Archive" Hollister tops from 2022 on TikTokHalley Kate v. Sophia La Corte drama summaryTribal trend in Mexico (some TikTok examples)Intentalo by 3ballMTY

Full episode available on Patreon <3In this episode, we put on our gamer girl headsets and dive into the world of Dress To Impress, the viral fashion game taking the internet by storm. We discuss the emerging fashion sensibilities and favorite references of Generation Alpha, the surreal beauty standards of the Roblox universe, DTI as an election year sociological indicator, the history of FlopTok, the deregulation of child labor, and more.  Links:Play Dress to Impress on RobloxRoblox Audience InsightsPlot Economics by Venkatesh Rao – RibbonfarmOver Half of US Kids Are On Roblox – The VergeI'm Heartbroken No One Likes My Outfits in DTI – PolygonOpen Worlds by Alexi Alario (lol) – Real Lifeeflsur on Tik Tok CaseOh DTI highlights on YouTubeMadison Beer's DTI Livestream

In this episode, we embark upon a swashbuckling anthropological journey into one of the most mysterious aesthetics of the menswear universe: Male Pirate Dressing, a style beloved by prestige actors and aging rockstars alike. Along with our two expert witnesses, James Harris and Lawrence Schlossman of the Throwing Fits Podcast, we ask some of life’s most difficult questions: Why is midlife crisis boho such a prevalent phenomenon? Are indie sleaze icons destined (or doomed) to succumb to over-accesorized fashion piracy in the years to come? Do men know about John Galliano? Tune in to find out!Links:Image Board Alexander McQueen Spring 2003 Ready-to-WearHeidi Slimane Wearable Pirate UniformThe Trouble with Johnny Depp – Rolling StoneWere Pirates Foes of the Modern Order, or Its Secret Sharers? – The New YorkerThrowing Fits on SubstackThrowing Fits on Instagram 

In the third installment of our Study Break series, we turn our attention to the world of sport, analyzing the Broquette SKIMS campaign and all things Olympics, including Ralph Lauren boater costumes, the radical European uncoolness of the Opening Ceremony, and our own creative styling concepts for Olympic athletes. We also discuss Mark Zuckerberg's rebrand, "Brat hangovers," and Kamala Harris's Loewe tomato girl potential. (Disclaimer: this episode was recorded July 28!)Special thanks to our sponsor Croissant! Download the Croissant App here to easily add the Safari extension to your mobile browser: shop with a guaranteed resale price and unlock an effortless resale experience.Learn more about Croissant on their website!LINKS: SKIMS Summer Uniform CampaignNicola Coughlan for SKIMS Soft Lounge Campaign2024 Paris Olympics Opening CeremonyHow Team USA's 2024 Olympic Outfits Were Made By Ralph LaurenMark Zuckerberg personally fuels the rumors of his Supreme takeoverJ. W. Anderson Gucci rumorsAlexi's Kamala-core Pinterest board Adam Lambert, ‘Moana’ Star Auli’i Cravalho Taking Over Lead Roles in Broadway’s ‘Cabaret at the Kit Kat Club’Fragrances by Sabrina Carpenter

FULL EPISODE AVAILABLE ON PATREON <3In this week's episode, we're joined by Sophie Kihm, renowned baby name expert and editor-in-chief of Nameberry, the world's largest website about names. We discuss historical name influences from politics to Hollywood to influencers, the rise of the baby name snark forum, 21st-century name considerations like personal branding and SEO, and the overlap between trending aesthetics and name intelligence. Links:Nameberry on TikTokNameberry Newsletter on SubstackSophie Kihm on Instagram "How Gen Z is Your Name?" by Sophie Kihm for Nameberry"10 Baby Name Trends of 2024" by Sophie Kihm for NameberryMcKinli Hatch, the Internet's first viral baby name momentThat Name is a Tragedeigh SubredditName Nerd Circlejerk Subreddit"Why R U Mad at the Name Kayleigh?" by Kathryn Jezer-Morton for The CutNames + nicknames in a 1960s yearbook "Luxury" name hate on RedditFind exclusive episodes here <3

In this week's episode, we revisit the '90s does '60s phenomenon and discuss the parallels between the two decades—swinging youth culture and nightlife, technological optimism, design innovation—while also finding surprising similarities to our contemporary moment. We highlight the Austin Powers trilogy as this sensation's most brilliant high-camp cultural artifact, unpacking its satire of free love, modern masculinity, and British cheekiness. We explore Space Age fashion, the British Invasion(s), pop environmentalism, Volkswagen Beetles, iMac G3s, the Powerpuff Girls, and much more.Special thanks to our sponsor Croissant! Download the Croissant App here to easily add the Safari extension to your mobile browser: shop with a guaranteed resale price and unlock an effortless resale experience. Learn more about Croissant on their website!Links:Image board Consumer Aesthetics Research Institute's "Groovival" Are.na Board"Austin Powers-core" musical subgenre TweetAustin Powers: International Man of Mystery – fashion photography montageObituary of Pierre Cardin – The New York TimesIndustrial designer Karim Rashid "BBC" by Ming Tea – Official Music Video Dressed to Regress: Interview with Austin Powers costume designer Deena Appel (1999) – LA TimesDeena Appel interview – From Tailors With LoveThe Peacock Revolution: 1960s Menswear – Victoria & Albert MuseumPeter Bogdanovich on the lasting influence of Austin Powers in Goldmember – The New Yorker‘A real stroke of genius.’ How Apple’s iMac G3 became an object of desire – CNN AWOLTrends on BlobjectsPrada's spacesuits for NASA's 2025 Moon mission – ForbesThe Low Earth Orbit Economy – NASA "Bye Bye Sixties" – Nancy Sinatra, Goldie Hawn, and Ruth Buzzi (1969)Find exclusive episodes here <3

In this episode, we dive into the history of pin-up and rockabilly fashion to analyze this aesthetic's continuous deployment in the 21st century pop landscape. We discuss the exaggerated gender dimorphism of the 1950s, the striking similarities between pin-up girls of the '40s and Instagram starlets of today, rockabilly's morbid legacy and the Overton window of obscenity, the decadence of Americana foodstuffs, and the raunchy, feminine stylings of Amy Winehouse, Katy Perry, and, most recently, Sabrina Carpenter. Links:Image boardWelcome to the Club: The Women of Rockabilly (2001)Rockin': The Rockabilly Scene by Andrew ShaylorRockabilly: The Twang Heard 'Round the World by Michael Dregni Dave Hickey on Rockabilly in Air Guitar: Essays on Art & Democracy  Sabrina Carpenter "Nonsense" Outros Compilation"What Happens When a Pop Star Isn't That Popular?" by Shaad D'Souza – New York TimesSabrina's custom "Espresso" swimsuit vs. Marilyn Monroe's in How to Marry a MillionaireKaty Perry performing "One of the Boys" in 2008Rolling Stone on the backstory behind Katy's Teenage Dream coverRolling Stone review of Teenage Dream upon release in 2010TASCHEN's The Art of Pin-up by Dian HansonAlexander Thompson's photographs of Mexican-American RockabilliesProperty from the Life and Career of Amy Winehouse – Auction Catalog"A Sly Wink to Pinups of the Past" by Ruth La Ferla – New York Times (2012)Caroline Gnagy's Work**Full interview with Caroline Gnagy also available on Patreon! Find exclusive episodes here <3

In this episode, we link up in Hell's Kitchen and transform into experimental theater critics in order to provide an unbridled review and aesthetic analysis following our patronage of the new Broadway revival of Cabaret, a musical with a captivating history and a surprising relevance to many of our favorite themes and subjects. We talk about the century-long meme of Berlin debauchery, Sally Bowles as a feminine archetype in her many iterations, Eddie Redmayne's viral Emcee performance (and its chilling implications), and the wildly imaginative costume design work of Tom Scutt, from sleazy boudoir ensembles to fascistic menswear. LinksGo see Cabaret on Broadway!Cabaret – "Wilkommen" performance at the 77th Annual Tony AwardsCabaret (1972) starring Liza Minelli Goodbye to Berlin by Christopher IsherwoodMarch Vogue profile on the 2024 revival, feat. interviews with Eddie Redmayne and Gayle RankinHow a Broadway Theater was Remade Into a Queer Cabaret (interactive NYT article)Playbill interview with set and costume designer Tom Scutt, featuring costume sketches! Cabaret (2024) review in the LA TimesCabaret (2024) review in the New York TimesPrevious iconic Sally Bowles moments: Liza Minelli's "Mein Herr" and Jane Horrocks' "Cabaret"Biz's essay "2016, 2017"Find exclusive episodes here <3

In this week's episode, we don our polarized hippie glasses and go back in time to investigate the cultural legacy of the Grateful Dead and all that they represent: psychedelia, Pied Piper figures and their cult-like followings, cross-country motor travel, bootleg merchandising, musical improvisation, and more. We analyze the parallels between the infamous Summer of Love and the summer now upon us, with a special focus on the darksided undercurrents lurking through both. Links: Finding Authenticity in a T-Shirt – The New Yorker (on Online Ceramics) Owsley Stanley's website — The Bear StoryOwsley Stanley: The King of LSD – Rolling StoneThe Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test by Tom Wolfe, 1968 (full PDF!) Grateful Dead 2015 Chacos collabThe End of Merch – GQ Will the Grateful Dead Live Forever ... Through Merch? – BillboardA Guide to Grateful Dead IconographyHow Fashion Became Obsessed with the Grateful Dead – WSJ Why, in 2018, is Fashion Obsessed with the Grateful Dead Aesthetic? – FashionistaThe Disembodied Body of Marilyn Monroe – Wendy LesserFind exclusive episodes here <3

FULL EPISODE AVAILABLE ON PATREON***In the sophomore edition of our Study Break series, we check in on a few of our cultural prophesies: on the Silly Boy front, we analyze the rise of LEGO-man rap sensation Ian, and on the Alt-Print front, we assess the threat of Katy Perry's new Bushwickified era. We also announce Shiloh Jolie as our nepo baby top draft pick in light of her recent Afrobeat activities, discuss the Frutiger Aero undertones of J. Cole's "Grippy," mourn the disillusion of much-loved brands including Dion Lee, Mara Hoffman, and The Vampire's Wife. Links: Shiloh Jolie Pitt Dancing to AfrobeatNorth West for ERLThe Vampire's Wife Shuts DownMara Hoffman Shuts DownDion Lee Raises AlarmMarc Jacobs - Dear BulliesThe Curious Case of Underselling Arena ToursJ. Cole mixing "Grippy" by the sea

**FULL EPISODE AVAILABLE ON PATREON**In this very special episode of Nymphet Alumni, we discuss the media of manifesting, past and present. We talk digital dreams, grindset gurus, algorithmic wizardry, and so much more!Part of Lip Sync, a series programmed by Olivia Kan-Sperling that engages forms of speech and writing that invite us to merge seamlessly and intimately with language: where words are full of presence, and work just like magic.Originally Broadcasted on Montez Press Radio  on May 22, 2023Links:Hippie Teens on TikTokBaby Storme on TikTokInternet-related psychosis–a sign of the timesSymbols and Signs by Vladimir NabokovOprah’s Secret: New? Old? Good? Bad?Deception in Computer-Mediated CommunicationThe 12 Universal Laws and How to Practice ThemFAKE IT TILL YOU MAKE IT by Maya MannShannin Blake on TikTok

In this week's episode, we dive into the magical world of fragrance and its various online factions, from Fragrantica-posting girlbloggers to the designer cologne peddlers of the Manosphere. We discuss celebrity perfumes (including Bella Hadid's mystifying new alchemical elixir, Orebella), historical fragrance zeitgeists, the spectrum of accords from fantastical to hyperrealistic, the looming threat of edgelord aromatic stink bombs, perfume's associations with youth, sexuality, temporality, and language, and more.  Links: Orebella by Bella HadidGen Z Wants to Smell Rich. It's Driving Luxury Fragrance Sales – BloombergFantasy by Britney Spears CommercialAre We in a New Era of the Signature Scent? – Nylon@fragrantnerd on TikTokParadigm Issue 03, featuring Sweat by Paradigm (BTS on Instagram)The Granarchist Scent Revolution: Why "Old Lady" Fragrances are Booming – Suzy NightingaleFragrance Players Enjoy Double-Digit Growth, Driven By Demand For Premium Labels – ForbesBeauty & Wellness Briefing: Fragrance continues stunning growth across an increasingly bifurcated category – GlossySexy Fragrances That Drive Women Nuts – Kevin SamuelsJeremy Fragrance on YouTube@colognefortnite on Instagram, this reel specificallyTeen Boy Inexcusable Evil TikTok Reporting by Funmi MonetWhen Did Teen Boys Get a Nose for $300 Cologne? – New York Times (came out after we recorded lol) Post-Fragrantica Manifesto – Audrey Robinovitz for DirtEat Your Lipstick on SubstackFind exclusive episodes here <3

This week, we're excited to announce our new episode format, STUDY BREAK, in which we take a hiatus from our usual fact-finding and forecasting to discuss trending topics and events in our orbit (many requested by you, our listeners!). In the inaugural episode of this series, we discuss the miscellany of this year's Met Gala, The Hunger Games saga as perma-reference, the slay mama brainrot of Charli XCX's "360," the spectrum of psychosexuality from YZY Porn to Challengers, blokette Vogue employees, BBL Drizzy, and much, much more. Links:Met Gala Eat the Rich contentBlokette Vogue employeeCharli XCX – 360 (Official Video)Zendaya's Louboutin So KatesDoja Cat and Guram Gvasalia in NYC

Full episode available on Patreon <3In this episode, inspired by the widespread panic surrounding the Death of the Club, we assess the contemporary state of nightlife and the sartorial, musical, and social considerations of the Going Out experience. Drawing from our own fieldwork as well as numerous studies, we discuss bottle girls, pickup artists, natural wine bars, section mindfulness, the infamous events of the TikTok Rizz Party, and much more. TikTok Rizz Party (original)TTRP Lana editTTRP Sylvia Plath editThe Man Who Has Everything: Mark Fisher on Drake’s Nothing Was The Same Venkatesh Rao — The Gervais Principle Millennials vs Gen Z in the club on Reels (lol) Sizing Up The Nightlife: A Study on Status DistinctionWhy Gen Z Gave Up on Clubbing — The TelegraphGen Z and Nightlife Safety — Hunger MagazineGen Z Tell Us What They Think of Millennials’ Party Habits — VICE Boiler Room and Charli XCX Presents: PARTYGIRL

In this episode, the hosts are joined by our favorite fashion theorist and Rick Owens collector, Rian Phin, to analyze the recent rise of post-apocalyptic desert drip, inspired by the release of Dune 2. We discuss the different factions of Rick Owens wearers, the influence of Middle Eastern fashion, climate absurdism, exoskeletons, and hero worship in uncertain times. With the insight of our honored guest, we speculate on the battle for fashion futurism and the legacy of the Rick Owens house. Links: Image boardInterview with Dune costume designer Jacqueline West — Vogue Luca Maxim worldbuilding wikiLuca Maxim on TikTokCoperni Futurism — VogueRian Phin on YoutubeRian Phin on TwitterRian Phin on InstagramRian Phin on TikTok 

In this episode, we reflect on what we call the Loner Girl aesthetic, an eccentric style epitomized by the vulnerable yet spunky YA protagonistas of decades past, best accessorized with a messenger bag, sneaker flats, and a starry-eyed disposition. We reinvigorate the teen traumacore literary canon, including the works of John Green and Ellen Hopkins, and discuss its associated social phenomena, mental health themes, and expression through personal style. We also take stock of Manic Pixie Dream Girl discourse and discuss early-career Marc Jacobs, "Banal Eccentricity" at Prada, the forgotten appeal of eggplant purple, and our own personal thirteenth reasons ...Links: Image board Thirteen Reasons Why book cover stylingRelated aesthetics on CARI: Hipness Purgatory, Corporate GrungeWhen Miuccia Prada Invented Ugly Chic – NSS Mag (Prada S/S 1996)Marc Jacobs Fall 2005 RTWYour Fave is Problematic: John GreenThe Teen Whisperer (John Green 2014 New Yorker profile)Why John Green Likes Writing for Teenagers (2019 NYT interview) John Green and his Manic Pixie Dream Girls – LA Review of Books Mori-kei – Japanese Fashion Wiki Find exclusive episodes here <3

Full Episode Available on Patreon <3In this exclusive episode, we discuss a litany of misguided rebrand attempts, interrogating the dogwhistles of Gen Z bizarro cash-grab styling. Inspired by the ignominy of Camila Cabello's new "era," we unpack the major influences behind alternative rebrands, from Myspace celebrities to the visual identity of PC music. We investigate the authenticity crisis, the definition of hyperpop, being niche gay famous, the digital camera and camcorder renaissance, and more! Links: Image boardCamila Cabello for PAPER Magazine (came out after we recorded LOL)Call Me Back by James CharlesCharlotte Rutherford PhotographyTrisha Paytas shot by Alyssa KazewAyesha Erotica Twitter RantThe Media's Succession ObsessionTara Yummy's 1 Million Subs Party

In this episode, we conduct a meeting of the minds with brilliant wordsmith and beauty industry critic Jessica Defino. Together with Jessica, we embark on an impossible journey of cosmetic ethical dilemmas, unpacking the undulating discourses of makeup and skincare. Tune in as we ask questions that keep us up at night: are Sephora Tweens canaries in the coal mine of disintegrating self-esteem? Can the age of the multi-hyphenate sustain the explosion of celebrity beauty brands? Is self-actualization possible in a minefield of appearance optimization? Why is there such a thing as baby skincare? Read Jessica’s Work:Jessica’s WebsiteThe Unpublishable – SubstackAsk Ugly – The GuardianLinks:Sephora TweensISAMAYA 2016 Makeup Nostalgia Tarte Brand Trip Controversy  A Guide to Every Celebrity Beauty Brand

This week, we address the critical levels of silliness we've detected in today's culture, from the debut of Drake's adorable alter ego Anita Max Wynn to the rise of cute-forward hypewear. We theorize as to why silly ass white boys are suddenly doing dances in crews, rediscover the influence of mid-2000s ringtone rap, and canonize a new generation of digital Merry Pranksters, including Joeyy, the Laundry Day boys, Sexyy Red, and others. Links: Image boardThe birth of Anita Max WynnEvanDaGreat, Maxevasi0n, Laundry DayJerseyyJoe, Hugo Hilaire, That's My DawgZack Bia and Yeat getting sillyWhite guys dancing to afrobeatsChief Keef style on TikTok: one, two, three, four, five, six"Narcofashion" Polo trend in MexicoPlayboi Carti Is in His Hello Kitty Era on “EvilJ0rdan” – HypebeastAnonymous Club by Shayne Oliver Resort 2024 – Vogue RunwayCreature WorldBustaMove StoreKerwin Frost x McDonalds MerchTisaKorean silly merch also McDonalds Sprite song and Soulja Boy tribute? Dirty Decade: Rap Music and the U.S. South 1997–2007 – Matt Miller in Southern Spaces'Laffy Taffy': So Light, So Sugary, So Downloadable – New York Times, 2006Rondell Conway snap rap cover story for Vibe magazine, June 2006Hurrikane on TikTok, Y2K Dallas style in Brazil, Dallas boogie style (2009)  9 ways Soulja Boy revolutionized today's hip hop culture – RevoltNettspend on Know Your MemeTimothee Chalamet's digital footprintGlorb – The Bottom 2 (Official Music Video) (SpongeBob AI rap?) 

Full Episode Available on Patreon <3In search of the zeitgeist, we make our way out west to discover the spirit of Los Angeles and its enigmatic hold on our collective imagination. We analyze its patchwork urbanism, its thrilling eroticism, and its enduring associations with novelty, maximalism, and existential dread. From midcentury novelists to Y2K socialites to nouveau riche influencers of the 2010s, we draw upon a wealth of references to make sense of the city's cultural milieu and distinctive sartorial character. BONUS: Ky Newman of Emergency Intercom joins us as an expert witness to discuss the reality of the LA content creator lifestyle, the future of influencing, and the city's fashion landscape.  Links: [Subscribe on Patreon for full LA Bibliography Masterlist!!!]  Image boardEmergency Intercom Ky Newman on YouTubeKy Newman on Instagram

In this episode, we open up the yellow Kanken of history and unpack one of the most influential archetypes of the 2010s: the art hoe. We rediscover the work of the Art Hoe Collective, revisit the Tumblr art historical canon from Matisse's cutouts to Van Gogh's sunflowers, and trace the aesthetic's propagation through musicians like Mac Demarco and Tyler the Creator. We also discuss the forms in which art hoeism lives on today, from TikTok's indie teens to zillennial art world professionals.  Links:Image board Art Hoe Collective in the Dazed 100#Arthoe: the teens who kickstarted a feminist art movement – The GuardianAmandla Stenberg: Don't Cash Crop on my CornrowsRex Orange County - Loving is Easy [Official Video]Claud - Wish You Were Gay [Official Video]

This week, we investigate the recent destigmatization of theater kid energy and its resurgence in mass culture, from musical-movie adaptations to the irresistible charms of improv-trained comedians. We discuss the peak of the NBC fandom, the timelessness of "difficult" leading ladies, star factories such as SNL and NYU Tisch, the ineffability of theatrical sexuality, the rise of craft and tryhardism, and more.  Links:Image board Renee Rapp on Call Her DaddySNL 1975 (upcoming SNL movie)Ariana Grande - yes, and? (Official Music Video) Audio-Visual Cocktail Party by Steven Phillips-Horst for Spike Magazine (on late night shows) Paloma Diamond is Winning Awards Season – VulturePower Bottoms: The NYU classmates behind the year’s most delightfully dumb comedy – VultureNYU brainstorming sesh for BottomsTina Fey clip that came out after we recorded this episode?! Find exclusive episodes here <3

Full Episode Available on Patreon <3In this emergency roundtable, we drop everything to take a walk through the streets of Paris with John Galliano, discussing the viral Margiela show that brought on a fashioncore love surge the likes of which the world has seldom seen before. We talk about the broken down babydoll effect, the emerging field of cosmetic forensics, our love for steampunk, the body shop, fashion hunchbacks, merkinis, early career Adele, despair, theatricality, and more. We celebrate the termination of the "Year of the Girl," and herald the arrival of the "Year of the Lady" ... and the Tramp.  Links:Maison Margiela Spring 2024 Couture – Vogue RunwayMaison Margiela Artisanal Collection 2024 – Full Show on YouTubeMaison Margiela’s Couture Collection Will Go Down in Fashion History – Cathy Horyn for The CutOsman Ahmed's Instagram CaptionInterview with Luc Bruyère

To mog, or not to mog ... This week, we take a trip to the Mogwarts School of Profound Self-Improvement to check in on the next generation of looksmaxxers and their charismatic leader, Kareem Shami. We discuss key figures of the male beauty pantheon—male models Jordan Barrett, Chico Lachowski, and Sean O'Pry— and discover what they represent to young men today. We also dive into the dark history of looksmaxxing, from the Legend of Zyzz to the alleged crimes of orthotropic madman Dr. Mike Mew. Links:Image boardYoung Men Seek Answers to an Age-Old Question: How to Be Hot – New York Times Mogwarts Official WebsiteKareem Shami aka @syrianpsycho on TikTokInside Jordan Barrett And Fernando Casablancas’s Celebration Of Love In Ibiza – VogueDr. Mike Mew Tribunal – The GuardianMore Dr. Mew evidence – BBCMikhaila Peterson interview with Dr. Mike MewWeston A. Price research overview (see "Our Children" section) The Legend of Zyzz video essay"full looksmaxxing playist" on YouTubeFind exclusive episodes here <3

In our first episode of the new year, we discuss the infiltration of Mormon culture into the online mainstream, from the highly engaging TikToks of Nara Smith to the reign of the Stanley Cup and the alchemical innovations that fill them. Why are there so many Mormon influencers? Since when do Mormons have kind of cool style? How is Lucky Blue Smith eating so much every day? We dive into snarky subreddits, genealogical archives, and obscure theological sources to bring you the answers; Sam also introduces her Class to Crass spectrum to make sense of Mormon content.  Links: Image boardNara Smith on TikTokTaylor Frankie Paul on TikTokWhy So Many of Your Favorite Beauty Personalities Are Mormon – AllureInfluencer culture and LDS theology – The Christian CenturyPolygamy Chic TumblrFLDS Hair TutorialPolygamist Hair – Huffington PostEx-Mormon SubredditIdentify pioneer principles, apply them in modern times – LDS Church NewsPioneer Principles: Your Heritage – Latter-Day SopranoMormon history in the pioneer age: the mob assassination of Joseph Smith, the Mormon Wars, Brigham Young's wagon trainMormonism and the color white – LDSLivingThe Granite Mountain Records Vault in Salt Lake CityBuilding Mormonism: History and Controversy in the Architecture of the Latter-day Saints – Art in AmericaMormonism, Empathy, and Aesthetics – Beholding the BodyToward a Mormon Aesthetic – Brigham Young UniversityRational Faiths: Keeping Mormonism Weird

Full Episode Available on Patreon <3Welcome to the Nymphies! In this inaugural ceremony, we honor 2023's greatest achievements in fashion and culture with awards from us at the Nymphet Alumni Academy of Arts and Sciences, including categories such as Biggest Fashion Faux Pas, Most Camp, and Best "Core," and culminating in the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award. We offer exclusive access to our careful deliberation process, which features extended discussions of Chris Pine's street style, tooth gems, eco-terrorism, Keith Lee, and more.

This week, we investigate the emergence of TikTok Shop, exploring its bizarre interface and offerings as representative of a new era of e-commerce and consumer psychology. We discuss the redefinition of the “small business,” the vulgarity of commerce as content, and strategies of pathological guerilla marketing. We also take a stroll through the Shop ourselves to observe the “gyatt pajamas,” chamoy pickle kits, and pheromone oils that are sweeping the nation. TikTok’s official Shop press releaseTikTok Shop in the New York TimesChamoy pickle kit explainerDr. Candice Lin on Zheng XiangxiangFV Makeup foundation videosChina Too Cool: Vernacular Innovations and Aesthetic Discontinuity of China – Yijing ZhouUX in China: More Is More, Super Apps, and Community - Yuan Qing Lim (Config 2022)Livestream Shopping Is Not Going to Take Over E-Commerce – ForbesTwitter as a Payment Processor – Financial TimesIndonesia’s TikTok Shop Ban – Financial TimesTeens Selling on TikTok Shop – NBC, Financial TimesTikTok Shop’s Snail Mucin Dupe Problem – Wired 

Ho ho ho!! We Three Queens arrive to you with our hearts full of cheer and our sleigh stocked with the greatest gift of all … knowledge!! In our very first Christmas special, we discuss the visual language of the holiday season, from the scourge of minimalist Christmas decor to the history of department store spectacles. Joined by ghosts of Christmas Past, including the original Coca-Cola-sanctioned Santa Claus, Thomas Kinkade, and Jack Skellington, we also make our predictions for theoretical Christmas aesthetics to come. Image boardKim Kardashian’s Minimalist Christmas DecorMinimalist Nativity SetsThomas Kinkade’s Christmas ArtJoan Didion on Thomas KinkadeA History of the Department Store – BBCHistory of Christmas CatalogsSanta’s New York Roots – NYPLChristmas Drawings for the Human Race (1890) – Thomas NastHaddon Sundblom and the Coca-Cola SantasWhy Hollywood films, Christmas music and jazz are so intertwined – Jazz FMBrenda Lee’s Comeback – New York TimesVogue’s Christmas Archive

Subscribe to our Patreon for the full episode <3This week, we snap into our intellectual spring-lock suits and analyze the phenomenon of creepycore internet media, discussing digital horrors that have us shaking in our boots. Tune in to hear how FNAF falls into the tradition of Victorian storytelling, what creepypastas tell us about the participation gap, how iceberg-style consumption has changed the media landscape, and more!  Links:“The Troubles of the Automaton” by Clementine BlackThe Participation GapCreepypasta Wiki The Laws of Lorecore by Shumar BasarKid’s Stuff in Contemporary HorrorThe Uncanny Valley by Marisho MoriPerpetual Mismatch TheoryConfigural Processing TheoryUncanny Valley Makeup TrendSerbian Dancing Lady TrendOpposite Features Makeup TikTok

In this episode, we expand on the edgy, high-octane aesthetic of the Harley Davidson Harlot. From the checkerboard-and-flames motif of the 2010s to the 2020 revival of Diesel under Glenn Martens to Kylie Jenner's new clothing venture Khy, we chronicle fashion's obsession with all things moto-inspired ... and evaluate the dystopian implications of this petrochemical path. On this journey, we encounter Che Guevera and Julia Fox, uniform fetishism, the BP oil spill, Global South cyberpunk, and much more. Links:Image boardKhy by Kylie JennerBetsy Johnson's Khy callout postsMotorbike culture in the Global South: Vietnam, Brazil, KenyaThe Importance of the African Motorcycle in ArtKim Kardashian in Chrome Hearts How Glenn Martens Saved Diesel from its Midlife CrisisDiesel's Daily African print campaign (2001)An Incomplete History of the Akira Bike SlideApple's Mother Nature report starring Octavia SpencerAzealia Banks' Yeezy Modular Survival KitPrix WorkshopFind exclusive episodes here <3

In the second installment of this two-part episode special, we set about the path of high cotton heaven, tracing the waves of country influence upon the modern. We discuss Bella Hadid’s rough-handed cow-beau, Gram Parsons' trustafarian tragedy, the poetics of agricultural science, Lucchesse’s Sufjan Stevens moment, and more! Plus: we expand our red-dirt horizons with the help of two world-renowned country music experts, Kevin Fontenot and Caroline Gnagy, wrapping up the episode with a special dispatch from the Texas Overture HQ. Listen to our playlist here <3Extended interview with Kevin and Caroline is available on our Patreon <3Image Board Links:Texas Overture Caroline Gnagy’s WebsiteGoin’ Hillbilly Nuts: Fashion Culture and Visual Style in Country Music by Caroline Gnagy (are.na link)Louisiana Women by Kevin FontenotAccordions, Fiddles, Two Step & Swing: A Cajun Music Reader by Kevin FontenotDon’t Get Above Your Raisin’ by Bill C. MaloneHow the West Was Worn by Holly George WarrenThe Mind of the South by WJ CashThe Battle for the Heart of the Great American Nudie Suit | GQFFA Tik TokPoor Little Rich Boy - Chicago ReaderJody Rosen on the Rise of Bro Country

Subscribe to our Patreon to hear the full episode <3Howdy, listeners! In the first installment of this two-part episode special, we three Southern belles brace ourselves for the incoming wave of country music revival. From Tyler Childers to Jelly Roll, and Lana Del Rey to Morgan Wallen, we track the aesthetic inclinations of Southern living in the post-bro country era. We talk Tik Tok cowboys, buttered biscuits, nudie suits, cosmic cowgirls, Nashville bridal showers, and more!Links:Image BoardLana Del Rey Waffle House ShenanigansCosmic Cowboy HistoryLinedance to S&MChreesh Cowboy DanceNudie Cohn

In this week's episode, we ring in the upcoming Thanksgiving season and its assorted fashion implications, from the domestic humiliation of living room glam to the mercantile hysteria of Black Friday shopping. Does the donning of brown leather subliminally evoke the turkey and/or football? How does Thanksgiving day become a social minefield of gendered and generational tensions? We also reflect on the visual monoculture of Thanksgiving Americana— Charlie Brown, Norman Rockwell, the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade— and the genealogy of the boot known as the "Pilgrim Stepper." Links:Image boardThe Pilgrim Stepper memeIconic Macy's Thansgiving Parade momentsMacy's Thanksgiving Day Parade wiki Abraham Lincoln's Thanksgiving proclamationEli Roth's Thanksgiving trailer (2023)Eli Roth's fake Thanksgiving trailer (2017) Pilgrim style on the runway – VogueFind exclusive episodes here <3

This week, we’re joined by fitness expert and Flexin’ Texan Sarah Herse! We discuss the worlds of fitness influencing and bodybuilding, getting strong as a means of embodiment and developing agency, and the evolution of the fitness market from the yoga pants armageddon of the 2010s to today’s athleisure landscape and the extreme visual language of pre-workout and protein products. Plus, we discuss Jack Antonoff’s jock theory, the complexities of being a woman in fitness, and Sarah tells us about her own journey from NYU student/peak-indie sleaze American Apparel employee to pro-bodybuilder, powerlifter and crossfitter!Download the Sarah Herse app: https://my.playbookapp.io/sarah-herseFollow Sarah: https://www.instagram.com/sarahherse/?hl=en Links:“Against Ordinary Language: The Language of the Body” Kathy Acker"Against Exercise" by Mark Greif “Body Work” by Barbara Ehrenrich “The Encyclopedia of Modern Bodybuilding” by Arnold Schwarzenegger Jack Antonoff by Shaad D'Souza for The FaceListen to exclusive episodes here <3

In this episode, we celebrate one of the great and glamorous muses of the early 21st century: the Shoe Diva! We discuss the importance of being 40, the ineffable poetry of Hallmark greeting cards, the death of suburban representation, and the boozy decadence of American motherhood. We conclude that you should never resist the urge to put cucumbers on your eyes, make the crosswalk your runway with ten shopping bags in arm, "ACK!" like Cathy, and have "a naughty little treat" etc. Image BoardLinks:Shoe Diva, Aesthetics Wiki“The Cheeky ‘Wine Mom’ Trope Isn’t Just Dumb. It’s Dangerous”, Washington Post Sass Gallery by Alece BirnbachCathy by Cathy GuisewiteShoe Diva Aesthetic Facebook PageJames Cerne’s Brilliant Ode to Shoe DivasEnter Helen: The Invention of Helen Gurley Brown and the Rise of the Modern Single Woman by Brooke HauserChick LitCari.Institute

In this Patreon exclusive, we three podcastresses embark on an experimental journey into the world of live event recording. Graciously sponsored by NUTS, a new fashion publication by Richard Turley, we spend hours circling through a variety of eccentric guests: veritable style icons, industrious businesswomen, editorial masterminds, friends both old and new. We ask hard-hitting questions, ponder the meaning of life, distribute candy, correctly identify the members of the Antwerp Six (finally), all under the scrutiny of a live audience. Listen to the full episode on Patreon <3Isabelle Rea, 00:00-08:45Mika Kol, 10:39-20:15Violet Handforth, 20:20-26:43Alex Hodor Lee, 26:45-42:40Perla Haney-Jardine, 42:45-1:21:00Richard Turley, 1:21:51-1:34:20

In this very special episode, we meet the doyenne of fashion podcasting, the honorable Avery Trufelman, and discuss the rise of fashion history and analysis as content. We talk about brands as journalistic outlets, World's Fair modernism, the abundance mentality of the Internet, the slutty librarian look, and more!Articles of Interest by Avery TruflemanTerry Nguyen on "thought-fluencing" for VoxThe Meaning of Ryanair – Dublin Review of BooksGem.AppVictorian Hair JewelryLouis Armstrong House Virtual ExhibitOn Photography by Susan SontagThe Fashion System by Rolan BarthesEvery Company is a Media Company by Tom ForemskiSpecial thanks to Max @windy.500 for producing this episode!

This week, we discuss the great mascot of modernism and one of our personal favorite archetypes: the dandy. We reflect on dandy theory from Baudelaire to Baudrillard and investigate the roots of dandyism as a reaction to “the great masculine renunciation” of the Age of Revolutions. We mourn tragic dandies past and honor their self-sacrifices at the altar of decadence, and we speculate on 21st century dandyism and its expressions online— and Sam shares her michelada recipe!Links:The Dandy, from The Painter of Modern Life by Charles BaudelaireIn Praise of Cosmetics, from The Painter of Modern Life by Charles BaudelaireSimulacra and Simulations by Jean BaudrillardThe Rebel: An Essay on Man in Revolt by Albert CamusBeau Brummel and English Dandymania – National GeographicGreat Moments in Dandyism – The CutParis Fashion: A Cultural History by Valerie SteeleDandyism and women’s fashion in the 1980s – The GuardianEdward Preble on Tik TokEthan Wong on InstagramMexican street corn devilled eggs Instagram recipe

This week, we’re bopping our heads through the last weeks of summer— to the tune of Eurodance! We reflect on the high BPM European dance music that soundtracked the ‘90s and 2000s, from hits like “Barbie Girl” and “I’m Blue” to CGI-characters-turned-chart-toppers like Gummibär and Crazy Frog. We discuss the controversy around Sweden’s supremacy in music production, Eurodance aesthetics as a blueprint for Mass Bushwick, the Euro-exoticism of Albanian pop stars, and more.Links:Image board 'Why Don't We All Go Bonkers?' – The Rise and Fall of Happy HardcoreSNAP! – Rhythm is a Dancer Albanian pop star conspiracy Twitter threadGreen Day’s Anti-Sweden billboardFlat Pack Pop: Sweden’s Music Miracle – BBC Why Backstreet Boys 'I Want It That Way' Lyrics Are so ConfusingThe Soviet Spy Who Invented the First Major Electronic Instrument – Smithsonian Magazine  Planet of the Bass Official Music VideoThe Eurodance EncyclopediaFreestyle Disco Dancing Championship

Subscribe on Patreon to hear the full episode <3In this episode, we discuss the past, present, and future of one timeless category of T-shirt design: the BOLD STATEMENT TEE. From Katharine Hamnett and House of Holland to Anna Bolina and Jaded London, we decode the social and political bygones permanently etched onto masses of XL blanks. We talk human billboards, wearing your Instagram caption on your sleeve, truism thirst traps, dropshipping scandals, and more! Links:Image boardKatharine Hamnett profile - The GuardianWham - Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go MVQueen’s 1985 Rock in Rio performanceAnna Bolina Interview - i-DAnna Bolina knockoffs calloutstomach of your dead soulmateHouse of Holland’s 10th Anniversary - Harper’s BazaarHenry Holland’s DIY Tutorial - Teen VogueJaded London Tik Tok adJaded London’s graphic teesOGBFF profile - Fashionista