Let's talk building finger strength for beginner climbers. We're going to go over protocols and common practices so you can approach finger strength with longevity in mind. Do you believe finger strength is the most important thing to focus on? Because I don't. (Okay, it's in the top 3.) But hear me out: technique. Technique paired with consistency, intentionality, and curiosity will help build familiarity around hold positions, and you'll learn movement and strength. So have a listen to this week's episode and let's dive into finger training. 00:03:20 It's not just finger strength 00:04:15 What are your fingers doing 00:07:15 Hold proper hand positions with intention 00:08:34 Take this intentional approach to a training board 00:09:07 Time Under Tension 00:11:55 No Hang Protocol 00:22:25 Longevity in finger training 00:24:40 Other ways to improve grip strength and finger strength 00:26:15 Recovery example: rice bucket Check out my special offers below! 50% off Programs using code 5YEARSOMG at checkout 👇 Pulling Strong: Get your 1st or 10th pull up: https://www.modusathletica.com/pulling-strong Hanging Tough: Improve Grip and Shoulder Strength https://www.modusathletica.com/hanging-tough Minimalist Flexibility https://www.modusathletica.com/minimalist-flexibility New Member Offer: First 3 months for $97, use this checkout link to claim your discount https://www.modusathletica.com/offers/C5hDL5aq/checkout Emil's YouTube Videos: Original No Hang Video: https://youtu.be/sBTI9qiH4UE?si=NFjnIIodobQmmRHl Follow-up: https://youtu.be/XXrDQ8PCAmI?si=Y6hC1sqQ7BFstv_U Rice Bucket video: https://youtu.be/fpa_30upVTA Research studies: Intermediate and advanced protocols for hangboarding: López-Rivera E, González-Badillo JJ. Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers. J Hum Kinet. 2019 Mar 27;66:183-195. doi: 10.2478/hukin-2018-0057. PMID: 30988852; PMCID: PMC6458579. Original Keith Barr Study Emil used to create the no hangs protocol: Baar, K. (2017). Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments. Sports Medicine (Auckland, N.z.), 47(Suppl 1), 5. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40279-017-0719-x Follow-up study with Keith Baar and Emil Gilmore, N. K., Klimek, P., Abrahamsson, E., & Baar, K. (2024). Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers. Sports Medicine - Open, 10(1), 1-11. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7

In this episode I share actionable tips to make your winter climbing training fun and fresh. I love winter training & that's when I see measurable progress. You can beat the distractions of outdoor climbs, ditch the drive, and enjoy simple and focused winter climbing training. I know sometimes it can feel like a grind to get motivated, and things can feel heavier when it's dark and dreary, but these tips will keep you out of the funk. Make a mini-plan using this winter training gym checklist! 00:02:49 What are your strength and weaknesses. Think terrains, holds, tactical, body strength, etc. 00:05:17 Create constraints in your gym session. Play a game! 00:07:43 Try a themed session 00:08:32 Circuit training 00:10:26 Strength training, but play it safe. 00:14:28 Flexibility training 00:15:10 Quick tips about recovery 00:15:53 Highlight those wins, keep your motivation Check out my special offers below! 50% off Programs using code 5YEARSOMG at checkout 👇 Pulling Strong: Get your 1st or 10th pull up: https://www.modusathletica.com/pulling-strong Hanging Tough: Improve Grip and Shoulder Strength https://www.modusathletica.com/hanging-tough Minimalist Flexibility https://www.modusathletica.com/minimalist-flexibility New Member Offer: First 3 months for $97, use this checkout link to claim your discount https://www.modusathletica.com/offers/C5hDL5aq/checkout

In today's episode I'm talking Recovery Techniques in the form of Recovery Rituals. These rituals will help you be more energetic, lower your risk of injury, and you'll enjoy better climbing sessions. Find out the role of energy in your body, and how it effects your recovery. Also learn how to reevaluate your training intensity and volume, as well as create better habits around nutrition, sleep, your recovery techniques, and mental well being. All of this can affect how you recover. Whether you're preparing for an indoor project or simply wanting to feel less tired during your climbing sessions, stick around for some great info! 00:01:33 What recovery actually is: energy 00:06:26 Are you thriving or just surviving your climbing sessions 00:07:29 What is happening in the body during a workout session & how recovery works to rectify those things 00:10:52 How to jumpstart your recovery 00:13:43 Track everything; highlighting the role of intensity and volume 00:14:55 Guidelines on how to increase load 00:18:17 Leave a session feeling snappy 00:18:52 Nutrition: Macro nutrients, minerals, and micro nutrients 00:22:28 Sleep 00:24:06 Active and passive recovery strategies 00:31:15 Mental and emotional side of recovery 00:34:04 Common mistakes and beliefs that climbers have 00:37:55 Implementing these recovery strategies 00:42:00 Challenge! Here's my free Flexibility Foundations Course: https://www.modusathletica.com/flexibility-foundations-opt-in Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together I ntro To Training Masterclass is another free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass References: Gabbett, T. J. (2016).** The training-injury prevention paradox: should athletes be training smarter and harder? **British Journal of Sports Medicine, 50(5), 273-280. https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/50/5/273 Kellmann, M., & Kallus, K. W. (2001). Recovery-Stress Questionnaire for Athletes: User Manual. Philippe, M., Wegst, D., Müller, T., Raschner, C., & Burtscher, M. (2012). Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 112(8), 2839-2847. Haff, G. G., & Periodization Research Team. (2014).Periodization strategies for strength power athletes. Strength & Conditioning Journal, 36(4), 14-24.

Today let's redefine "old age" when it comes to climbing. We love busting some myths! It's so inspiring to see "older" people climb and find JOY while climbing. "Old" is relative, of course. So let's jump in this conversation together and change the way we think of old age. Age is not a limit! Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass 00:01:06 The Nationals in SLC 00:02:45 Inspiration from Chris Sharma, age 43 00:04:00 Nationals predications 00:08:17 Something beautiful that comes with age 00:10:05 You can probably do a lot more than you think 00:14:08 Lifetime sport 00:15:58 Western culture and the value of wisdom 00:16:38 Common misconception on age & body functions 00:18:06 It's the decisions we make & lifestyle change 00:25:10 If you don't use it, you lose it 00:26:48 Just get started 00:28:12 Interesting question about training: short term or long term? 00:35:15 Keep training, it's not your age!

Happy 1 Year Podcast Anniversary! At Modus, Mercedes is celebrating 5 years since starting this business and Katja is celebrating 3 years since joining, and together we're going behind the scenes to talk about what it's like to run a business, why we started this podcast, and where it's going. We think of it like climbing - there's a lot of joy that goes into it, as climbers we do hard things and love sending; but not every piece of the project is fun, right? Like your skin hurts, or it's cold outside. That's the same with a business! But we're here - following our passion of climbing, educating this community, and sharing the joy! Join our conversation and feel free to comment your thoughts! Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass 00:04:20 Why we started the podcast 00:10:13 Wishes, dreams, desires for the next year 00:12:02 The business of business 00:16:10 Top 3 challenges 00:20:44 Shout out to the team 00:21:55 Choosing high quality tools for high quality content 00:23:10 Starting out: female, CSCS certified, introducing coaching to climbers (what?!), the pandemic, then a flooded market 00:24:30 Mindset: I am not an influencer, I am a Coach. A check for Mercedes' Ego 00:29:35 Social media 00:32:12 Katja's transition to Modus, her most precious resource for her life, and dealing with technology in business. 00:44:00 The next 5 years

Our time is valuable! To help you make the most of your sessions, we have 5 Time Saving Tips for projecting sport climbs. These tips are targeted towards sending a sport route quickly in terms of how many sessions are spent on a route. Perhaps you're on a trip, or you have short seasons - you'll benefit from learning these tips! Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass 00:01:20 Tip 1 - Bolt to Bolt 00:04:26 Tip 2 - Find the right project 00:06:55 Tip 3 - Finding your rest spots 00:10:19 Tip 4 - Practice the top 00:13:12 Tip 5 - Visualization & memorization

Today's time-saving episode is about the TOP 5 Time-Saving Tips for Projecting Outside! (Don't fret, you can use these for indoor bouldering too). If you find you're short on time, or just want to send your project faster - use these helpful, practiced tactics to set yourself up for success! Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Shout out to Kaya Climbing https://kayaclimb.com/ 00:01:29 Tip 1 - Gather Beta 00:05:27 Tip 2 - You don't have to start from the beginning 00:06:26 Tip 3 - Do each move in isolation 00:10:48 Tip 4 - Rest a lot 00:15:15 Tip 5 - Dial the top out of the boulder

Today we're talking about how to increase climbing capacity for longer days outside. This was a member question that we touched on in our Q&A episode, and here we are with more context. Learn what capacity means, specific examples, and what increasing capacity can mean to you as a climber. This is a great nugget of information for those wanting to identify where you need to work your capacity. OPEN ENROLLMENT! Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass 00:01:03 Mercedes' outdoor "office" today & her outdoor goals this month 00:02:41 What "Capacity" means 00:03:59 How we like to prepare athletes 00:05:08 Examples of how Mercedes is increasing capacity in a specific way, explanation of "what is moderate?" 00:13:51 Let's talk intensity and volume 00:18:11 The importance of goals & a flexible mindset 00:19:55 "Hard" is relative & increasing conditioning 00:23:53 How Katja prepares for rope climbing season 00:29:31 How to identify where you need to work your capacity

We believe in redefining training - it's not just for hardcore athletes, it's for everybody. Join Katja today for another episode of "normal people who climb." In our 2nd member interview I am joined by long term member Kris Eaton as she shares her story and passion for climbing training as a lifestyle to be pursued until old age. OPEN ENROLLMENT! Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass The inspiring interview with member Alissa: https://youtu.be/s0tPMR2_6uo?si=pPanyY32qoKh6GHm 00:01:58 Getting to know Modus member: Kris 00:05:54 The beginning of Kris' climbing journey 00:12:08 What competition and climbing look like for Kris now, & a competition story! 00:26:05 Let's talk training. Previous coaches & her experience with Modus. 00:32:16 Shoutout to Mercedes! 00:33:27 Kris' first group zoom as a member of Modus: rest as hard as you train! 00:35:24 Reestablishing Modus' philosophy for training 00:40:02 Membership & Modus training plans for whatever is happening in your life 00:43:44 Modus coaches and community support you staying active & integrate training with body, mind, family, work 00:46:00 Last minute words & tips from Kris about the Modus Climbing Training Membership

Today we're answering our listener's questions! Also, it's OPEN ENROLLMENT for our Climbing Training Membership! The Modus motto "Strong, Healthy Humans Make Strong, Healthy Climbers" is clear in today's episode where you'll learn just why we care for and coach the whole person - not just the climber. Also, get a peek of the basic framework of our membership and hear some Listener Q&A's about balancing priorities, making friends at the wall, getting enough protein, and more! OPEN ENROLLMENT! Sign up for our training membership TODAY: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Link to the inspiring interview with member Alissa: https://youtu.be/s0tPMR2_6uo?si=pPanyY32qoKh6GHm Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass 00:00:40 Membership is open! Why we care about our membership, and why it's for everyone. 00:09:35 Basic framework of the Modus training plan 00:12:22 Shout out to our Nutrition Coach Amanda Fitt. Members can access to nutrition calls and course. 00:13:00 Our member community holds the standard for supportive communication. 00:14:15 A Modus core belief 00:16:04 A membership bonus: meetups 00:17:15 First Q&A: Climbing and being a mom 00:21:53 Q: Making friends 00:28:39 Q: How to eat enough protein when you're not a meat eater. 00:37:32 Q: Flow state 00:42:47 Q: How to increase boulder session in a day 00:47:39 Q: How to improve overall foundations

We're at the end of the training series with Steve Bechtel. Today we put our training knowledge together and talk about how to create your own training program. Whether you're a boulderer, sport climber, or non-competitive climber, this episode is for you. Previously we've talked about energy systems, mental tactics, performance, and today we're cramming in a lot more info on how to put together a climbing training program! If you need a reminder on power endurance, essentials of strength climbing, recovery, and much more - go back and have a listen to the other episodes in this training series with Steve!   Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together   Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass 00:01:11 How to frame "training" 00:07:04 How to decide what to focus on when creating an off-season plan 00:12:47 Skill goals vs grade goals 00:15:21 How to balance working on weakness & strengths 00:19:27 Less measurable qualities, less obvious progression 00:24:48 When and if to work on finger strength 00:29:00 How to put a training program together 00:38:36 Minimum guideline: how little you can train 00:44:01 Pre-season focus 00:46:39 Performance phase balance 00:50:16 Should we schedule de-loads 01:02:29 Recommendations for sport climbers without rope access 01:07:18 How to train endurance to come back during outdoor season 01:15:45 Making room for board climbing training

What do good training plans and good smoothies have in common? Katja is on fire with this analogy! First we ask: what is training? What do you think of when it comes to being trained? Learn what we at Modus believe about training & perhaps shift the view in your climbing training program! We give you the components for good training and good smoothies as we discuss ingredients, dosage, combination and balance, and enjoyment! Stay until the end for details on a free event happening soon!    Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass 00:00:41 Define training 00:05:01 Good training plans and good smoothies 00:07:38 Component 1: Ingredients for good training. General strength, specific strength, technique & skill drills, and flexibility 00:12:10 Mercedes' tip for vegetables and strength training 00:13:28 Skipping to Component 3: Combination & balance. 00:15:28 Component 4: Enjoyment, add the honey. 00:17:36 Make a beautiful blend in your training program: train your weaknesses, different combinations, training plans are individualized just like smoothies. 00:20:29 Component 2: Dosage of ingredients to support your health. 00:24:00 YOU'RE INVITED! Free 2 day event where questions are answered by the Modus team Click the link to join the upcoming free event! https://www.modusathletica.com/train-smart-climb-harder

In today's episode we're going to talk about what you can expect from climbing coaching, specifically with us at Modus! Curious about one-on-one coaching or group coaching? Find out about the advantages of working with Modus, and which climbing training you'd best fit in! Plus learn about the benefits of one-on-one and group coaching. We share our experiences being coached, expectations of coaching, and the Modus philosophy.  Share your experience with Modus in the comments!   Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together   Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass   00:00:45 Katja's personal experiences being coached by Mercedes 00:09:25 Mercedes' experiences being coached 00:16:46 Unrealistic expectations of coaching 00:17:58 Modus philosophy vs quick programs; How we coach at Modus 00:29:29 Advantages of Modus one-on-one coaching 00:34:42 Advantages of Modus group coaching via the training membership Stronger Together 00:37:01 Beneficial differences between one-on-one and group coaching 00:41:44 Choosing a coach

Are you a beginner to board climbing? This Part 2 episode is for you! We're going over the top tips to get you started on a training board. Katja and I both use training boards in our own training and in coaching. Today's episode is jam packed with tips on how to get started, and let's not forget etiquette! Have a listen, and start training with us today! Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together 00:00:45 Recommended boards & personal faves 00:16:22 Getting started, Tip 1: Angle adjustments 00:23:46 Tip 2: Turn off the lights 00:29:05 Tip 3: Positional isometrics 00:33:00 Tip 4: You belong 00:38:41 Etiquette, Tip 1: communicate 00:44:30 Tip 2: brushing (and making some friends) 00:48:22 Mercedes remembers her thought to add to the communication tip 00:49:44 Katja shares when she was given beta spray she didn't ask for 00:54:06 Encouragement

We're discussing performance climbing with Steve Bechtel today! Seems straightforward, but there can be some confusion about what you can actually achieve during a performance climbing phase, and how can we as athletes manage our expectations around it. Join our conversation as we talk about optimizing the conditions that lead to a great performance phase. Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together 00:1:10 Ideas of performance 00:03:40 Reaching performance peaks as an advanced climbing athlete & managing expectations 00:11:20 Focusing on wins, mental side of "forward," consistency 00:21:29 How to navigate performance for the folks who don't go outside very often 00:25:48 Balancing stoke to perform and preparing for a performance phase 00:32:02 Strategies to maintain strength during performance phase, & nutrition 00:39:09 Does skill level affect ability to reach a performance phase 00:43:17 Ability to adapt to new areas and how that can affect reaching performance phases 00:49:41 Navigate pressure you may put on yourself as an athlete 00:53:27 Battling the excuse: complaining 00:56:54 Mental endurance will get you through

Have some fun with us in today's episode and let's discuss differences between board climbing and gym climbing. The advantages, disadvantages, and how to adapt your training to each! Which do you prefer to climb on? Did you know about all the ways to utilize these tools? Did we miss anything? What has a training board or gym climb taught you? Let us know in the comments! Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together 1:52 About commercial gym climbing and board climbing 4:32 Types of boards and advantages of board climbing 19:30 Disadvantages of board climbing 29:00 Advantages of gym climbing 33:42 Disadvantages of gym climbing 39:02 Katja's favorite training board 40:25 We didn't talk about the spray wall -- look for Part 2 of this episode! And what did Mercedes change in her garage?! More to come!

In this solo episode of Modus Cafe, I get vulnerable about my struggle through an elbow injury. Recovery was about two years which is the longest recovery I've experienced. I questioned my identity as a climber, as a coach, as a human. Not only am I sharing about how I overcame physical limitations, and found other ways of movement, but how I had to hurdle over the mental and emotional frustrations as well to find my Big Why and my joy for climbing again. I'm grateful to be where I am now, and glad to be on this journey with you. Take what you can from my experience and remember the essence of climbing is always here for us. (*If you feel injured, go see a PT. My injuries are not your injuries*).   Shout out to MoveMend: https://movemend.info/ and Union PT: https://unionpt.com/ both in Seattle! Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together 00:01:45 Multiple injuries & rehab in the past 00:02:55 May 2022 elbow injury (disclaimer: if you feel injured, go see a PT. My injuries are not your injuries) 00:09:40 Pain in shoulder 00:11:17 Starting to lose my mind 00:12:55 Experimenting with bodybuilding, dealing with body changes 00:15:20 Still in pain, still not climbing. 00:19:13 December 2023 turning point. 00:20:30 Importance of community and perspective. 00:23:26 Mental tools. 00:28:36 Rehab Process. 00:33:01 Transition back to climbing, adding pyramids and moonboards. 00:42:00 What keeps me motivated.  

Today, we're discussing the advantages and disadvantages of pyramids in climbing training, when to use them, and why. This training tool helps climbers build a base of easier climbs while progressing to more difficult ones, and ultimately setting themselves up for success for their hardest sends. Pyramids can be tailored to a climber's specific goal, and if utilized effectively, this training can keep you organized and focused to help you break into your next grade! So, have a listen to this week's episode about the benefits of using climbing pyramids, and let us know how you'll be incorporating it into your climbing training! Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together 00:01:54 What is a pyramid? 00:05:04 What is often missing in a climber's natural climbing pyramid? 00:07:04 What is the timeframe for a pyramid. What about in-season, long-term, short-term? 00:8:32 Tips for & benefits of creating your pyramid. 00:11:18 What is the intention of your pyramid, and did Mercedes use a pyramid before her V10? 00:15:16 Preparing for the top or holding yourself back? 00:18:46 While not in-season, learn by filling in your pyramid even if it's an awkward climb. 00:22:07 Encouragement to stay organized during your in-season trip. 00:28:34 Guess what, there's no rules for your pyramid.

We're back with Steve Bechtel! At Modus we say, "Recover as hard as you train!" Today we emphasize the crucial role of recovery in training and climbing. We discuss the importance of developing work capacity, optimizing recovery strategies, and balancing training and recovery. Also in our conversation learn about active recovery, proper nutrition and sleep for recovery, and the drawbacks of overtraining and training to failure. Lastly, know the importance of consistency, patience, and time management in achieving results. Flexibility is a big part of climbing movement and recovery. Join here for a free flexibility routines and theory: Flexibility Foundations for Beginners: https://www.modusathletica.com/flexibility-foundations-opt-in 00:01:29 How Steve Bechtel approaches recovery  00:05:39 What to do in your workout to optimize recovery  00:13:30 Cues/Words to help athletes recognize when to stop a session.  00:20:35 Active recovery and sleep  00:29:10 Incorporating recovery tools like a shakeout in a climbing routine, reduce stiffness, breathing  00:34:19 Going to failure  00:41:33 Time Sets  00:47:50 Psychological benefits with consistency, patience  00:52:15 Other recovery strategies   01:05:43 Active vs passive recovery

Let's talk about strength training! What does that mean in terms of reps? What about intensity? Join us in today's episode to learn the science behind it, and what it means to train for endurance vs strength endurance vs strength. What's your goal? We'll help you understand how to reach your most efficient strength benefit! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier  

Deadlifting can be overwhelming and complicated to learn, but once you have the technique dialed in, this exercise can greatly improve the strength and health of a climber's body. Join us for this podcast as we cover how to get started deadlifting, the benefits, practical tips, common misconceptions, how to move around pain, gym etiquette, and how to make the best adjustments to the movement. Want a jump start to your training? Sign up here to get instant access to our free Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

Continuing on this training series with Steve Bechtel, we cover power endurance. This energy system is the sexy one, the one that everyone wants to train. But the system can also lag behind, be misused, and lead to burnout and injury if done incorrectly. We call this energy system "the icing on the cake," this is especially true if you have put a lot of work into training the other facets of training: strength, endurance, and power. Join us for today's episode to learn how to optimally train power endurance! Want a jump start to your training? Sign up here to get instant access to our free Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

In this episode, Amanda Fit joins us to chat nutrition for climbers.  Nutrition is always a difficult topic because it's so heavily based on individual needs.  But in this episode, Amanda covers some general ideas for you so you can make the best nutrition choices for yourself as a climber and athlete.  Some topics covered: Why fueling during your session is so important.  Fueling for longer sessions The need for sugar in the diet.  The best carbohydrate choices Packing the perfect lunch Specific recommendations for the amount of carbs and proteins Want community and coaching support? Join our amazing group coaching membership Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Join our of 3500 subscribers for articles and updates https://www.modusathletica.com/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier  

It's Mercedes' birthday! In this episode, coach Katja asks Mercedes about more personal questions and what it's like being a coach. This is a great one if you wanna get to know Coach Mercedes a little better :) Mercedes currently has 2 spots open for one-on-one coaching. Apply here: https://forms.gle/adgezW7aWvWDYUcN7

When you switch from indoor to outdoor climbing, your approach will likely change. Most people "feel" that outdoor climbing is harder. Climbers sometimes feel frustrated with their efforts outdoors, scared, and discouraged by the grades. This is normal. Indoor climbing is much different than outdoor climbing. There are a lot of factors to consider when climbing outdoors that you don’t have to worry about when you’re inside. But does this make outdoors harder? That's what we are talking about in today's episode! Want a jump start to your training? Sign up here to get instant access to our free Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want community and coaching support? Join our amazing group coaching membership Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Do you feel slow or static on most climbing moves or steer clear of dynamic moves? It might be a telltale sign of insufficient power if you're avoiding dynamic movement like the plague. In this podcast, we're joined by Steve Bechtel, who will unpack the critical role of power in climbing. We'll explore effective ways to train for power so you can be confident in your approach, clarify common misconceptions about what power training isn't, and discuss how to effectively integrate these strategies into your climbing programming. Join our of 3500 subscribers for articles and updates https://www.modusathletica.com/Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier

You don't have to project or climb your limit to climb hard in your sessions. In this podcast, we redefine what trying hard means, and it looks different depending on the session.    Mercedes shares a bit about her training process coming back from an injury, and limit climbing is not in the cards for her. She shares what she does instead.    Katja share her transition from strength phase to her current phase which includes some outdoor climbing.    We also share some of our favorite drills to that help you improve your climbing capacity without completely wrecking yourself. Join our of 3500 subscribers for articles and updates https://www.modusathletica.com/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier

Our special guest today shares her experience as a mom, training with little time, while in her fifties! She is seeing progress and finds joy in her training. Join us today as she shares her tips for training and how to keep consistent if you're a busy human. Enrollment is open for our climbing training membership, where we take care of your climbing training! Sign up here: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

At Modus, we love drills, and we do many of them! But we thought we would share two drills that are our favorite and our go-tos if you have minimal time or have a tough time deciding what you need to focus on. If you are a beginner, intermediate, or advanced climber, these two drills will change how you experience climbing, and as a bonus, you'll also become more confident. Katja shares her upcoming climbing plans and the importance of effective bouldering warm-ups, while Coach Merc introduces a game-changing drill that promises significant improvements in reach, control, and body tension. We discuss the benefits of these techniques, how to use them, and provide insights into incorporating them into your routine. Want a jump start to your training? Sign up here to get instant access to our free Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want a simple training program to follow? Join our amazing group training membership Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together  

Join Coach Merc & Katja from Modus Athletica and climbing coach Steve Bechtel from Climb Strong in an in-depth conversation on Specific Training for Climbing. We cover more nuanced climbing training topics, emphasizing the critical balance between general strength and specific climbing training. Learn from Steve's expert insights on various training boards, the role of technique over raw strength, and the effective use of video self-assessment to refine climbing skills. For climbers who aim to stay in the sport long-term while balancing performance, this episode offers perspectives on improving finger strength, understanding the importance of overall athleticism, and exploring efficient strength gains. This episode is perfect for climbers at all levels looking to push their limits and coaches seeking fresh insights into climbing training methodologies. Links mentioned in the episode: Project direct article link. https://www.projectdirectcoaching.com/blog/whatmetricsmatter Slow-motion climbing https://youtu.be/isZ176DKNN4 High step strength drill https://youtube.com/shorts/p18uP1bzGlc  

There are subtle ways our ego can creep into our climbing sessions, especially when we are in "training" mode. This podcast discusses signs of ego, how we sabotage ourselves without knowing it, and how we avoid looking weak by sacrificing what's best for us.   There is also a big difference between training and performing, which is important to define and realize if you are currently training.    Check yourself before you wreck yourself.

Do you ever feel like you don't belong in climbing spaces? Or maybe you don't quite feel like a "climber" yet? This episode explores cultural reasons why this happens and what you can do if you want to "belong." This one was definitely a deeper more emotional episode, and I was happy to have the opportunity to discuss this one!

If you ever feel heavy, like you're walking through mud with your training, or even having a hard time showing up at the gym, it could mean you are suffering from burnout.  This happens to most folks to devote time and effort to a skill. The grind is real.  In this episode, we give you a few things to consider to help you overcome burnout, or signs that you can might be reaching burnout.  Join our of 3500 subscribers for articles and updates https://www.modusathletica.com/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier

Here is the second episode in our training series with Steve Bechtel. We discuss the importance of general strength training for climbers as well as across our human lifespan. We discuss exercise selection, bodyweight vs resistance training, how to choose the right intensity, and Steve's favorite exercise. We still have our free pull-up masterclass available which you join here: https://www.modusathletica.com/pullup-masterclass-signup If you'd like to join our 12-week coaching program, hit this link https://www.modusathletica.com/pulling-strong  

In this episode of Modus Cafe, Mercedes discusses the benefits of developing pull-up strength for climbers and non-climbers. She also covers the essential exercises to nail your pull-up and provides a pull-up program framework that you can start working on. If you'd like to get our free pull-up masterclass, join here: https://www.modusathletica.com/pullup-masterclass-signup If you'd like to join our 12 week coaching program, hit this link https://www.modusathletica.com/pulling-strong Some of the topics covered in this podcast: Pulling movement in climbing Pull-ups for women/sex differences Do we need pull-up strength in climbing? How to build a strong pull-up Difference of opinion in this pull-up exercise Pull-up intensity Why arching pull-ups are great for climbers. Antagonist training. How long does it take to get a pull-up? Recovery. How to train without getting elbow tendonitis

In this episode, we discuss the impact of failure in the context of climbing. Failure is part of our beautiful sport, and as climbing coaches, we often see that failure can lead to feelings of inadequacy and unhappiness. We propose a slightly different approach to change or redefine failure, celebrating effort and progress rather than focusing on final achievements. We also question why near-successes are perceived as failures. Join our of 3500 subscribers for articles and updates https://www.modusathletica.com/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier

This episode embraces long-term, consistent training as a transformative lifestyle choice. Discover why dedicating a minimum of three months to training is just the beginning of experiencing significant enhancements in strength and endurance. We share insights on the pivotal role of tracking progress, physical and mental health impacts, and the art of redefining "training" to ensure clarity and purpose. With time, you'll experience the rewards of persistence and the beauty of adapting to the ebbs and flows of training life. Join our of 3500 subscribers for articles and updates https://www.modusathletica.com/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier

In this limited series, we welcome Steve Bechtel from Climb Strong to discuss the main facets of climbing training. We'll cover Endurance, Strength, Power, Power Endurance, Recovery, and Program design. In this episode, we will cover Endurance 101 for the climber who needs and wants to train endurance. We cover what the endurance energy system is, its role in climbing, assessments, how boulderers and sport climbers can train endurance, and chat about common mistakes and myths. We hope you enjoy this episode! If you have any questions, please comment below, and we'll answer them in a follow-up episode. Check out Steve Bechtel's training programs and resources right here https://www.climbstrong.com/ Want a jump start to your training? Sign up here to get instant access to our free Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want community and coaching support, join our amazing group coaching membership Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

In this podcast episode, we talked about the subjective nature of climbing grades. We question the reliability of the grading system, highlighting the variability among climbers and potential bias. As we know, climbing should be viewed as a skill-based sport rather than being tied to a grade, so we offer some options on how to measure your own progress, and what value you should place on your climbing.   We also share some of our favorite quotes about grades. Here the Intagram link to the post I was referring to. Please feel free to share your own one liners that make you feel motivated about climbing and seeing progress. https://www.instagram.com/p/C3qKb0mJEr6/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Want a jump start to your training? Sign up here to get instant access to our free Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want community and coaching support, join our amazing group coaching membership Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together   Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier

Healthy humans make healthy climbers. At Modus, this is our focus when we train our athletes. Our goal is to help athletes feel good, and perform well. Listen to today's episode to see which areas we focus on, and we highlight 3 aspects that you can take action on in your training. Did you know grip strength is a main measure of longevity? Being able to hang for 2mins means your at the top percentile for living a longer, healthier life. We have an amazing program dedicated to this! We train you to hang for 3mins, while improving your grip strength, shoulder strength and mobility, and your gateway into hangboarding: https://www.modusathletica.com/hanging-tough Join our of 3500 subscribers for articles and updates https://www.modusathletica.com/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/  

A plateau might not be what you think it is, but no matter what the definition is, if you feel stuck where you are at right now in your climbing, this podcast will help you understand where you can make changes, and possibly even change the perspective of your performance.   If you want a training program that will help you change your current level of climbing, as well as help your technique, strength and flexibility, join our training membership, Stronger Together https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together   We also have a free training Masterclass you get start with: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Follow us on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier  

Modus Coach Katja shares how she went from wanting to break into V6 to sending many V6's and climbing V7's in about 12 weeks working with Mercedes in her program, Modus Performance Training. She'll share some of how she got there and what you can do too.   If you'd like to join Modus Performance Training, our next round starts February 26th! Hit this link for more info https://www.modusathletica.com/mpt   Follow us on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier

In this podcast, we got a little personal and talked briefly about what it was like living in Germany, and recent travels Mercedes did. Then, we dove into the two best opportunities for recovery, so that you can climb and feel your best. As we know, recovery is an important aspect of rest, but how do we do this so that it's not overwhelming? We hope to answer this in this podcast. We outline a few ways to easily include recovery and some bonus strategies so that you can recover just as hard as you train for climbing. Topics include the importance of proper movement, auto-regulation, managing stress levels, sleep, and the benefits of protein in the diet. We are excited to open up enrollment to Modus Performance Training! This is our amazing 8-week training course to help intermediate climbers learn to train and experience a new level of climbing. If you're looking to break through a plateau and want a world class coaching experience, join now with an early bird price! We begin February 26th. https://www.modusathletica.com/mpt Follow us on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier

Warming up is more than just increasing blood flow to your muscles. We cover some lesser-known topics and reasons for warming up. We even go into how to change the warm-up based on the session type, for example, climbing endurance versus climbing projecting. If you want to get started with training, we have a webinar The Ultimate Guide To Your First Training Program that includes strength training with climbing drills. You can sign up for it right here: https://www.modusathletica.com/the-ultimate-guide-to-your-first-training-plan And we are excited to be running our 8-week training program starting February 19th, Modus Performance Training will take care of all the details, you just show up to train! Follow us on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier

In this podcast, we talk about the importance of strength training for climbers, and cover in-depth the 5 fundamental movement patterns that you should focus on as a climber and human. We talk about where to start with each one and how to progress or regress the exercises to suit your needs. We also talk about whether you actually need to train your end ranges as a newer trainee and the common mistakes that occur that lead to injury. We hope that this information arms you with the confidence to start strength training. We talked about the stick hinge, here's the link to learn the movement, a super old video, but a good one lol https://youtu.be/NPHXCwVV-LE If you want to get started with training, we have a webinar The Ultimate Guide To Your First Training Program that includes strength training with climbing drills. You can sign up for here Right here! And we are excited to be running our 8-week training program starting February 19th, Modus Performance Training will take care of all the details, you just show up to train! Follow us on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier

At Modus, we LOVE strength training, and we program it for all of our clients and members. To explain further why we do this, we decided to do a series on the importance of strength training. In this podcast, we discussed various aspects of strength training, including its benefits for climbers and the general public, the misconceptions and myths of strength training, and the importance of consistency and learning movement patterns. We also talked about the specific benefits and exercises for climbers. We also discussed the importance of intensity in strength training and the various movement patterns involved. Want a jump start to your training? Sign up here to get instant access to our free Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want community and coaching support, join our amazing group coaching membership Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together   Follow us on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier  

Learn how to optimize your resting tactics and skills to stay on the wall longer. Resting on the wall is a skill; we cover the best way to start practicing this. For example, relaxing certain body parts, doing specific shake outs, focusing on specific parts of your body, focusing on breathing etc. We also talk about 1 trick you can do to change your focus on a sport climb. Want a jump start to your training?   Sign up here to get instant access to our free Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want community and coaching support, join our amazing group coaching membership Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together   Follow us on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier

You don't need a fancy training program to get better at climbing. But what you do need is consistency. In this podcast, we cover tips on being more consistent as a busy human, and common pitfalls that you can avoid. This includes things you can do to create a habit, using placeholders if you can't make it to the gym, using the 80% rule and using the mantra of "anything is better than everything." Want a jump start to your training? Sign up here to get instant access to our free Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want community and coaching support, join our amazing group coaching membership Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together   Follow us on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier  

In this episode, we talk about everything you can expect from our climbing training membership. Training can be overwhelming, if you're new or even if you're a seasoned climber. And we know it can be hard to get answers to your training questions. That's why we created Stronger Together training membership. If you'd like to join us, you can sign up here https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together   Follow us on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier