This is the weekly columNebbiolo is the extraordinary grape closely identified with the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy and particularly with the region’s great wines: Barolo and Barbaresco. Let’s explore.The origins of the nebbiolo name is a bit foggy. It likely derives from the Italian word “nebbia” or the Piedmontese word “nebia.” Both mean “fog”—a reference to fogs that come to the Langhe region, where the grapes are grown, during the October harvest.Italian Piedmont region vineyardNebbiolo grapes make wines with bold flavors and very high levels of tannins and acidity, which is why they require several years of aging to become drinkable, and can age for decades. While the wines are bold, the color is not—more the pale ruby also associated with pinot noir.Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so vineyard site selection is important. Vines are vigorous, requiring significant management to ensure quality grapes. This finicky nature challenges grape growers and increases the price, but the reward is some of the world’s most prestigious wines.Barolo and Barbaresco—named for the small villages in the center of their production areas—are the iconic nebbiolo wines. They are produced in adjacent areas in the Langhe hills of Piedmont. Barolo is southwest of the city of Alba. Barbaresco is northeast of Alba, 14 miles away from Barolo.Although geographically close, the wines have somewhat different characteristics. Barolo—called “the wine of kings and the king of wines”—is more robust and full-bodied with higher tannins and acidity. And the “kings” quote is not just a clever 18th century tagline. The Savoys, Italy’s first (and last) kings really did love Barolo.Barbaresco is more approachable and elegant with softer tannins and lighter body. There is a royalty quote about Barbaresco, too: “We call Barolo the king, and Barbaresco the queen.”Italian DOCG regulations are strict for both. Barolo must have a minimum of 38 months total aging, with a minimum of 18 months in wood. Barbaresco must have a minimum of 26 months total aging, with a minimum of nine months in wood. In both cases, winemakers routinely exceed the minimum requirements.Tasting notes• Riva Leone Barbaresco DOCG 2017: Prominent tannins, as expected in Barbaresco, well-balanced by acidity. Recommend decanting, pretty much standard on a young Barbaresco. $35 Link to my review• Pio Cesare Barolo Pio DOCG 2018: Polished, approachable, delicious from signature maker. Rich dark fruits framed by approachable tannins and oak. You can let this age gracefully, but when decanted it is wonderful now. $75-85 Link to my reviewLast roundWhy did the math student do multiplication problems on the floor? Because the teacher insisted students could not use tables. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnWine is in turmoil. People are turning to alcohol alternatives. Red wine sales are down, white and rosé are up. French and Italians and Spanish are drinking less wine. There is a glut of wine. What?!This scenario was improbable just a few years ago when wine world was surfing on the wave of the global wine boom. Old world drank almost all they produced, China guzzled, U.S. boomers joyously enjoyed. Then COVID and anti-alcohol reports—all alcohol is bad for you—and alcohol alternatives. Semi-full stop. Too much wine, too few drinkers. Industry semi-panic.Well,  take a deep breath. The wine industry is not in the ditch with donkey’s feet pointing toward the sky. Yes, there is retrenchment, which every industry experiences. Welcome to the real world dot-com millionaires who overpaid for Napa acres so you could experience your Falcon Crest fantasy. You likely will lose money. You got into this because you had money to lose.White wine’s ascendancy is the interesting part of this evolution. Red wine has long been king. Not now. White wine’s typically lower alcohol content, compatibility with heathy foods like salads and lighter meats and fish, and fruity deliciousness is celebrated while massive oak and malolactic fermentation/conversion are in the rearview mirror of commodity wine makers. Less flamboyant efforts have pushed whites—and rosé—to the front of wine buying queue.Which should be ecstatic joy for wine makers. Red wines take time. Usually at least three or more years from vintage to store shelf. White and rosé can easily get there in one or two. If you are a business person, consider a situation where you produce or buy a product and know you will not be able to sell for two, or five, or ten years, how much intestinal pucker are your prepared to endure? Such is the world of wine.Wine drinkers should not despair. White and rosé wines are wonderful. They especially go well with heart-healthy foods. Rosé wines in particular straddle the divide between fish and lighter meats, not to mention vegetarian fare.Look, I get it. A rich red wine with assertive tannins and high alcohol remains on my list, especially when munching on fatty cow flesh. But that is only one box on my dietary check list. White and rosé certainly are OK.Last roundLittle girl in a drawing lesson. Teacher went over to her and she said, “What are you drawing?”Girl: “I’m drawing a picture of God.”Teacher: “Nobody knows what God looks like.”Girl: “They will in a minute.”Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnThanksgiving is the great American gastronomic holiday. Halloween is for foolishness, costumes, and candy. Christmas is for worship, family, and unseemly lust for gaudily wrapped material goods (somewhat antithetical to the Christian origin of the holiday).Thanksgiving is the quintessential harvest feast. Turkey and ham and cranberry sauce and corn on the cob and cornbread and pumpkin pie and whatever else you can conjure up from the cornucopia of agricultural abundance the good Lord bestows on American tables.The wine: pinot noir. I know arguments can be made for zinfandel and Bordeaux blends (American Bordeaux blends), even some whites and rosés. All well and good and maybe part of the groaning Thanksgiving sideboard of excess of everything. But if you want one wine for this bacchanalian extravaganza, it is pinot noir.Pinot is among the lightest of the red wines. It thus works well with a wide array of foods you conjure up for your Thanksgiving feast. It is especially suited for turkey, goes very well with ham. The stronger California versions of pinot can hang with slow-cooked brisket. It especially is nice for family members put off by tannic, assertive red wines. Thanksgiving is a meal of comity and convaiviality. Pinot noir encourages that.Pinot noir is a famously fickle grape, also one of the oldest varieties used for winemaking. The Catholic church was critical to its development beginning in monastery vineyards in the 6th century, then specifically named in the early 1300s. It spread to Germany as spätburgunder and in Italy as pinot nero. France’s Burgundy region is the cathedral of pinot noir, but California’s Russian River Valley and Oregon’s Willamette Valley now produce some of the world’s best pinots.Pinot noir is a challenging grape due to its thin skin—thus its reserved tannins—and susceptibility to various viticulture challenges. It is called the “heartbreak grape” for a reason, which means pinot noir can be expensive. It also is worth it for your biggest gastronomic celebration of the year.Tasting notes• Project M Wines Personify Oregon Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley AVA 2022: Delicate, silky on initial attack, rising to power, complexity later in the palate. $40 Link to my review• Dobbes Family Estate Eola-Amity Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2021: Excellent fruit effort. Nice tang, clean, precise, complexity, length. $45 Link to my review• Soter Vineyards Estates Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2021: Juicy, concentrated flavors. Plush, complex, elegant, impressive structure, length. Warm vintage well played by Soter, producing a more assertive pinot noir that you anticipate from Willamette. $55-63 Link to my reviewLast roundWhat did the farmer say when he accidentally squashed his pumpkin? Oh my gord! Wine time. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columIt takes two to four centuries to grow the oak tree for a wine barrel. Then, after tree harvest, four, usually more, years to season the wood and the staves. Finally, it is time to turn the staves into a wine barrel.Staves are planed into the correct shape, tapered and beveled to fit exactly together. A master cooper—the barrel maker—arranges 30-32 staves in a circle held together by temporary hoops. At this point, the future barrel resembles a flower with the bottom of the staves together and the tops splayed out.The “flower” then is toasted over an open oak fire and sprayed with water to soften the wood and make it pliable. A cable system draws the splayed ends together to create the iconic barrel shape, with very careful attention to the grain of the wood.The basic barrel shape then is “toasted” over an oak fire to develop flavors and aromas. This is a key part of the operation. The amount of the flame—light, medium, or strong—determines the character of the barrel. Low toasting emphasizes fresh fruit and elegance, while strong toasting delivers smoke, coffee, vanilla, crème brûlée, butterscotch, meats, and other flavors.At the same time, heavy toast makes for silkier, softer tannins because heavy toast breaks down the oak tannins. Smoke is another characteristic of heavy toasting. Heavy toast is often used for big, bold red wines that can stand up to the oak influence. Heavy toast also can require longer aging for the flavors to integrate and add complexity to the wine.In addition to how the barrels are treated, the type of oak also influences the wine. French oak produces a more subtle and delicate influence, but more tannin structure and mouthfeel. American oak imparts flavors more quickly and adds roasted coffee, coconut, sweet spice and more robust oak.Cooper making wine barrel—Creative CommonsFrench, American, and eastern European oak all contribute oak nuances. The different origins of the oak deliver various levels of the oak influence.The bottom line is wine is an agricultural product—grapes and wood. It also is the work of human hands and experienced minds.Tasting notes• Funckenhausen Malbec Blend, Mendoza, Argentina 2022: Vibrant, juicy full-bodied malbec-led blend. Argentine wine with hint of German heritage. $12-16 (1-liter bottle) Link to my review• The Prisoner Wine Company Saldo Red Blend 2019: Dependable celebration of ripe zin with supporting cast. Big, powerful, not quite as high alcohol as previous vintages, but still up there are 15% ABV. $32 Link to my reviewLast roundA pregnant woman began shouting: “Couldn’t, wouldn’t, shouldn’t, didn’t, can’t, don’t!” She obviously was having contractions. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnWine is an agricultural product. Hardly an earth-shattering revelation. But consider its scope. Not just wine vines, as essential as they may be, but in many cases—trees.Wine and wood have a marriage dating back millions of years. Wine vines are tree climbers, a relationship accelerated after the astroid-Armageddon when 75% of all plant and animals species became extinct. Trees and grapevines survived and flourished in the aftermath.Fast forward to recent times and the intimate nexus of wood and grape juice becomes more significant. Not only do/did trees provide grape vines a trellis upon which to climb to sunlight, they provide flavors and nuances for finishing wine.Time scales underscore the magnificence of wine creation. Vines must grow for three years before they deliver anything useable as wine fruit, and 20 or 30 or 100 years for the best. Forests are even more long term. Better quality oak in France and America are at least 200 years old, best longer than that—top French oak comes from 400-year-old trees. Think of that. Wood that enhances and finishes the quality wine you drink today began when the American Revolution began. George Washington could have seen the sapling that grew to make the barrel used in making the red wine in your glass tonight.Just as there are grapes of varying quality and characteristics, so with oak trees. Wood factories divide raw product according to quality. Oak designated for wine barrels cannot have flaws, so only around 20% is used for wine barrels. The remaining wood goes for furniture, home construction, and other products.After seasoning for several years, wood destined for wine barrels is sawed into staves. Staves are evaluated for grain and flavor. Smell is important here as staves of different flavors and smell are used depending on what characteristics the winemaker intends. Then staves age two or more years before they go into the cooperage to be fashioned into barrels.Just as winemakers blend grapes from different plots and different grape varieties, so do barrel makers blend different types of oak, different types of wood grains, and other variables. The variable of grain ranges from extra fine grain to big grain. The tighter the grain, the lesser the micro-oxygenation, which is the interaction between the juice inside the barrel and the atmosphere outside the barrel. There is no one-size-fits-all answer. It depends on what sort of wine the maker wishes to make.Once staves are cut, they go to the cooperage. Another complex story.Last roundA fool and his money are soon parted, especially in a wine bar.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnSome facts and trivia to lighten your mood as we prepare for the horrors of “fall back” when the government gives back the imaginary hour it stole from us on the second Sunday in March.• Do heavier glass bottles indicate higher quality wine?Glass weight does not affect wine quality. But there has long been a marketing illusion that better wines come in heavier bottles, and winemakers have tended to put their premier efforts in heavier bottles. But so have lesser wines been put into heavy bottles so sellers can charge more. Happily, there is a mounting movement to reduce bottle weight, which cuts down on CO2 emissions and shipping and other costs.Symington Family Estates recently switched to lighter bottles for its Cockburn’s Port line. Their new 750 ml bottle weighs 450g down from 585g. Other wineries, especially for wines not made for aging, have shifted to cans and “juice boxes” for even greater savings.• Will the LED lights in my wine cellar cause light strike in my wine?UV light and heat are enemies of wine, especially in long-term storage. Traditional lights give off UV and heat. Good news is LED lights give off minimal heat and almost no UV radiation.• What do the fancy names for bubbles in Champagne mean?“Mousse” generally refers to the overall fizziness, also the frothy head at the top of the glass. “Perlage” is French for a string of pearls and refers to the column of bubbles rising in the glass. “Bead” basically means the same as perlage.• What are the most planted wine grapes in the world?This answer changes and reporting is not uniform, but best answer in 2024 is cabernet sauvignon is the most planted red and chardonnay is the most planted white.• How do you open a bottle with a wax seal?Ignore the wax seal. Plunge the corkscrew through the wax and pull. When the cork is pulled, the wax will fall away. Just before you fully remove the cork, you can clean up any wax debris if needed.• What does the wine descriptor “racy” mean?Racy is more a style, not a descriptor of quality, smell, or taste. It basically means a wine with vibrant, fresh acidity. While it most often is associated with white wine, red wines can be racy, too. Racy is a positive comment and indicates the wine will “cleanse the palate” and work well with food.Last roundA friend asked me how much I spend on a bottle of wine?I said: “About 45 minutes, longer with a meal.” Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnHalloween is next week, but if you are giving wine advice it’s best to give your audience some time to act on it.First, I know of no decent pairing of wine with treacly sweet trick-or-treat candy. With somewhat less sugary candy, you can go with light, sweet wines. Wine must be at least as sweet as the candy.If the treat is dark chocolate, you have real options. Dark chocolate typically contains 50-90% cocoa solids. The higher the percentage of cocoa, the better to pair with wine. Vintage or ruby port, sherry, and marsala are classic fortified wine pairings. Non-fortified pairing wines include zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and New World pinot noir.If you are not part of the child extortionists plot, you can always enjoy the frivolity of an adult costume party and real wine pairings. Charcuterie boards work well with almost the entire panoply of wine. If you are enjoying a full regular meal, the usual food-wine pairings apply.When you get to dessert, dark chocolate is in play. With pumpkin pie there are several choices:• Mascatel sherry. Its honey, caramel, and raisin notes nicely pair with the pie.• California chardonnay. A full-bodied chard with plenty of oak, butter, and vanilla flavors will work especially nicely with pie crust.• Tawny port. Nutty and dried fruit flavors complement the pie.• Oloroso sherry. Sweet, nutty flavors match with autumnal flavors of the pie.• Late harvest gewürztraminer. Nutmeg, vanilla, and cinnamon flavors in this sweet wine complement spices in pumpkin pie.• Riesling ice wine. Sweetness and acidity work with the pie’s rich, creamy textures.As with candy, the key is the wine must be at least as sweet as the pie. In fact, that is a good rule of thumb for all wine and food pairings.Now you are set for the last day of October ordeal or fun fest, however you roll. Answer the doorbell, pay off the kiddos demanding tribute, practice moderation, wake up the next morning to prepare for the next holiday.Tasting notes• Cockburn’s No. 1 Special Reserve Porto NV: Delicious, approachable. The world’s most popular special reserve premium port. $18-20 Link to my review• Lustau East India Solera Sherry: Fascinating interplay of tangy, salty notes of oloroso grapes (80% of blend), sweetness of pedro ximénez grapes. $22-28 Link to my reviewLast roundThis Halloween I decided to go as a harp. At the party, a gentleman asked, “what are you supposed to be?”“A harp,” I replied.“No, no,” he protested. “You’re too small to be a harp.”“So,” I asked, “are you calling me a lyre?”Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnOctober begins the 17th year of this wine column. Reflections.• Quality wine is made by grape farmers in a vineyard, not by lab coats in a winery. When this column started, I could enjoy mass production wines manipulated by oak and tartaric acid and Mega Red. As years and tasting passed, my palate grew to more appreciate wines truer to place and variety. Supermarket mass production wines have their place, but as your wine odyssey unfolds their role diminishes.• Wine is more complex and interesting than you can grasp in a lifetime. Anyone who claims to know everything—or almost everything—about wine just proved they do not. Wine is an infinite Fabergé egg. Opening each shell presents you with a more beautiful and fascinating layer.• Texas wines would get there. My first publisher—of a Texas newspaper—specifically told me to avoid writing about Texas wines. They were hard for readers to buy. Winemakers struggled to find grapes and cellar practices that worked in Texas. No more. Texas wines have made enormous strides. They compete on quality and are beginning to compete on distribution. They tend to be somewhat overpriced, but sell out because of the proud loyalty of Texans. If Texans will buy $18 wine for $25 dollars, Texans will sell it to them. Then use profits to elevate their wine to be worth $25.• If you enjoy a wine, it is good wine for you. Ignore my and others opinion of it. I stated that in the first column. I believe it more today.• You never run out of things to write about. Early on, people worried I would exhaust my subject. Not close to the truth. I have written more than 800 columns, all posted on my website. Not a single repeat. No expectation whatsoever I will run out of material.• Supercilious tasting notes and wine scores are ridiculous. Sixteen years ago, I bet people wanted to know about wine. How it is made. The people who make it. The places it is made. What the jargon meant. With tens of thousands of readers around the world, I remain all-in on that bet. If you come to me for a pithy sentence and some score on a 100-point scale, you came to the wrong place.My writing career has taken me many places. Sports editor of a major newspaper. Author or participant in some 20 books. A successful advertising agency owner. This column remains a beloved highlight in that career, and I deeply appreciate your being part the journey.Last roundWhat washes up on tiny beaches? Microwaves. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnScare headlines: “Drinking any alcohol is a cancer risk.” Well, okay, the question is how much of a risk?In this discussion, remember the adage popularized by Mark Twain: “Three types of lies. Lies. Damn lies. And statistics.” Stories about cancer risk with alcohol often can be taken with a grain of salt.No question alcohol can put you at a greater risk of cancer. But how much greater risk? That is where the statistical hanky-panky emerges. A popular reference comes from the Canadian Centre on Substance Use and Addiction’s 2023 Guidance on Alcohol and Health: Final Report. A bottom line: limit consumption to no more than two alcoholic drinks a week.The devilish detail is the comparison of no-alcohol risk and the risk of some alcohol—usually two glasses of wine a day. Here are the findings:• The breast cancer risk for no-alcohol females is 17.3 of 100,000 deaths (1.73%). Two-a-day drinkers increase their risk to 22 of 100,000 deaths (2.2%).• The colorectal cancer risk for no-alcohol people is 9.2 of 100,000 deaths (.92%). Two-a-day drinkers is 11.1 of 100,000 (1.1%).• The liver cancer risk for no-alcohol people is 3.2 of 100,000 deaths (.32%). Two-a-day drinkers is 3.6 of 100,000 deaths (.36%).• The oesophagus cancer risk for no-alcohol people is 1.5 of 100,000 deaths (.15%). Two-a-day drinkers is 2.1 of 100,000 deaths (.21%).The statistical trick is to state increased risk in relative terms, not absolute terms. Breast cancer risk is 17.3 of 100,000 among non-drinkers and 22 of 100,000 for drinkers. The increase in drinkers is 27% measured in relative terms—22 is 27% more than 17.3. In absolute terms, the increase is .47% (17.3 plus .47 equals 22). If a woman drinks two glasses of wine a day, she increases breast cancer risk by less than one-half a percent.That is the reason the anti-alcohol zealots harp on relative and not absolute numbers. One is alarming but misleading. Two-a-day female wine drinkers do not increase their death rate by 27%. They increase their cancer chances from 17.3 per 100,000 to 22 per 100,000.No one argues that excessive alcohol does not pose significant health risks. But misleading the public about the risks of moderate consumption is not the way to affect this issue. Go ahead and have that glass of wine with your meal tonight. It is very unlikely to kill you. And the bonhomie you enjoy with that meal has its own benefit of increasing joy and enriching your life, which studies show helps prolong life.Last roundWhat do elves use to make sandwiches? Shortbread. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnIf you go into almost any wine shop, liquor store, or supermarket wine section in the United States—and now in most places in the world—you will find wine bottles arranged and named by the variety of grape used to make the wine.When the bottle contains a predominant percentage of a single grape variety (generally 75% in the U.S., 85% in Europe) it can be labeled as a varietal wine. It has not always been that way, and you have an iconic American wine family to thank for the change.The classic naming convention came from Old World wine countries—France, Spain, Italy, Germany,  and other European countries. The name came from the appellation—Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rioja, Priorat, Chianti, Barolo.Sophisticated wine drinkers understood designations. Bordeaux—blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and a few other grapes. Burgundy—pinot noir. Rioja—tempranillo. Priorat—garnacha and carignan. Chianti—sangiovese. Barolo—nebbiolo.When California wines stunned the world at the Judgment of Paris in 1976 the contestant wines were identified as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but that was not the norm. Back then, many American wines were labeled with names like “Claret”—cabernet sauvignon, maybe. “Burgundy”—pinot noir, maybe. “Hearty Burgundy”—not pinot noir, but a blend of zinfandel, petite sirah, and carignan. “Champagne”—any sparkling wine made any way, to the fury of winemakers in the Champagne region of France. The Mondavi family, led by Robert, realized most Americans were just getting into wine and needed something simpler. When Robert left the family’s Charles Krug operation to found his own winery in 1966, he began labeling his wine by the variety used. For the most part. When it came to sauvignon blanc, then considered déclassé, not the hot white it is today, Mondavi blinked and appropriated its French name “Pouilly-Fumé” to create “Fumé Blanc,” a blend of mostly sauv blanc with a splash of sémillon—but with enough sauv blanc to be labeled as a varietal. Today, it is among the winery’s best sellers.The American naming revolution largely won the day. Old World wineries still use their historical names, but likely you can read the varietal or variety-blend somewhere on the label. Almost every New World wine will carry the varietal or variety-blend information.The revolution made figuring out wine easier for people to figure out. And is an important reason for wine’s unprecedented increase in popularity the past half century. Thanks, Bob.Last roundMy English teacher looked at me and said: “Name two pronouns.” I said: “Who, me?” Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnWinemakers: To oak or not to oak, that is the question. Whether ’tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, or to take up oak to craft your wine to shake the spheres of ordinary.Oak and wine were made for each other. The wood and how it is treated introduces flavors compounds and textures. Oak barrels allow slow oxygenation, which engenders complexity and depth. Malolactic fermentation in oak converts tart malic acid into softer lactic acid, creating a creamier, buttery texture. The winemaker must decide if oak is in the wine’s future. For some whites, the answer is no. For reds, usually yes.Next decision—which oak to use. There are some 600 species of oak trees. They are divided into two main groups: red oaks and white oaks. In North America alone there are about 90 native species.American white oak (Quercus alba) has wide grain and high levels of lactones, delivering flavors of vanilla, coconut, marshmallow, volume, creaminess, and sweetness. It usually receives a medium toast (flame treatment inside the barrel). It often is used for bold wines—cabernet sauvignon and petite sirah—because its robust flavors and higher oxygen ingress complement such wines.European white oak (Quercus petraea) has finer grains. It has a more subtle influence on wine than American oak and imparts elegant flavors of vanilla and spice, and thus is preferred for lighter wines—pinot noir and chardonnay. The tight grains also mean a more measured integration of flavors, often preferred for premium wines. At medium toast, French oak imparts notes of coffee, chocolate, leather, and mushrooms. Wine must spend more time in French oak than American oak to attain these flavors.Eastern European oak, particularly from Slovakia, Hungry, and Romania, are similar to French oak. They can be more subtle than French oak and provide more delicate flavors.Bourbon barrels are another category, pioneered in the 20th century by Chilean mega-maker Concho y Toro with its American label, 1000 Stories. It involves using American oak, blackened and heavily charred to make bourbon and whiskey in first use. In second use with wine, the barrels deliver caramel, burnt sugar, dried herbs, coffee, and vanilla. Wine finished in bourbon barrels are only part of a blend—around five percent—but add smoothness and another layer of flavors with hint of its bourbon back story. They also are a booming category in wine because they are smooth and delicious. Wood you not be interested in trying this category?Last roundI only know 25 letters in the alphabet. I don’t know Y. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnWhat makes a great wine? There is a hard and fast answer: “great wine comes from great vineyards.”What makes a great vineyard?• Terroir. This is big net answer because the French term includes soil composition, climate, topography, even the culture and experience of the vineyard-winery workers.• Soil. Different grape varieties thrive in different types of soil. Merlot is particularly suited for clay soil that holds water. Cabernet sauvignon prefers gravelly soil that drains well. Chardonnay enjoys limestone soil. Sauvignon blanc’s ideal is sandy loam. The mineral content of the soil also can enhance character and complexity.• Climate. Well, of course. In particular, diurnal shift—the change in temperature from day to night—is a precious quality. Hot day engenders ripeness and tasty fruit, while cool nights develop balancing acidity.• Topography. In cool climates in the Northern Hemisphere south-facing slopes maximize heat and sun exposure. In warm climates, east, north, or northeast facing slopes help avoid overheating. Water drainage, slope, and elevation all can play a part.• Vineyard management. When nature gives you advantages, it is up to you to make the most of them. That includes decisions on farming methods. What to plant and how to plant. Pruning and canopy management are vital, a task that demands experienced vineyard workers.Where do these elements exist? The glory of wine, engendered by wine grape diversity, is there are places all over the world where you can make good wine. From the drenching rains of Minho province in Portugal to vineyards in the Atacama Desert in Chile—the driest place on earth—to the cold climes of the Niagara Peninsula and Okanagan Valley in Canada, clever humans have figured out what grape variety, vineyard configuration, and management decisions work in their special place in creation.After the interplay of these elements in the vineyard, the job of making great wine then falls to the artistry of winemakers. There is an almost universal agreement among great winemakers: their job is to largely stay out of the way and allow the vineyard to express itself. After all, “great wine comes from great vineyards.”Tasting notes• Serego Alighieri Possessioni Garganega e Sauvignon del Veneto 2021: Fresh, fruit-forward blend of garganega (the main grape of Soave) and sauvignon blanc. $20 Link to my review• DeLille Cellars Métier Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2021: Bold but approachable. Saturated with dark fruit flavors. $23-30 Link to my review• Texas Hills Vineyard Sangiovese, Texas High Plains, Newsom Vineyards 2015: Delicious Texas interpretation of the great red grape of Tuscany. Almost decadent ripeness. $25 Link to my reviewLast roundThank you for explaining the meaning of “many.” It means a lot to me. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnWine is your friend, especially when sipped with friends during a convivial meal. You are obliged to protect it from its enemies.Classic factors that negatively impact wine quality:• Oxygen. Exposure to oxygen can be wine’s valued friend or its mortal enemy. The key is moderation. Readers know of my advocacy of decanting—exposing wine from a freshly opened bottle to air to soften tannins, blow off odors, integrate elements. That exposure is relatively brief, measured in minutes or small number of hours. It is a common technique for red wines that also can improve some whites.But too much oxygen is the most significant threat to wine. Too much during the winemaking process can darken white wines to a brownish hue and rob red wines of vibrant color, shifting them into orange or russet shades. Too much oxygen in opened wine will flatten its flavors and aromas. Eventually it will turn the wine into vinegar.• Light. Ultraviolet light, both from the sun and artificial lighting, degrades wine’s flavors and aromas. That is why many wines come in dark bottles and should be stored in a dark environment.• Heat. Higher temperatures accelerate aging and eventually spoil the wine. One telltale sign of excessive heat exposure is a cork that has lifted, also leakage of wine out of the bottle. It is best to store wine between 45 and 65 degrees F, with 55 degrees the ideal.• Vibrations. Constant movement disturbs sediment and messes with the aging process. This especially is important for wine put down for aging.• Humidity. Some humidity—70% is ideal—helps keep corks from drying out. Too much humidity will not affect the wine, but can lead to mold growth that damages labels.These are things to think about, but not to obsess over. Wine is a tough hombre. Even when abused by oxygen, light, heat, vibrations, and humidity, it usually remains drinkable. It just will not deliver the same tasty pleasure you get when you treat it right.Tasting notes• Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley 2021: Incredibly delicious. Ste. Michelle has delivered this amazing value, wonderful riesling for years. $10-14 Link to my review• Vallformosa Mistinguett Brut Rosé NV: Simple, safe, tasty sparkling that will offend almost no drinker or any pocketbook. $14 Link to my review• Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Chardonnay, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2021: Mellow, well balanced, classic Napa chard, well-done oak and malo. $28-33 Link to my review• Compris Vineyard Midnight Journey Syrah, Chehalem Mountains AVA 2021: Savory, smooth delight scores all points you look for in a syrah. $50 Link to my reviewLast roundWhat kind of exercise do lazy people do? Diddly-squats. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnWine snobbery is a detestable trait. But you can be a “good” wine snob. Here’s how.• Respect the preferences of others. Never be condescending or judgmental. Basically, don’t be a jerk. Good advice for many situations.• Be a life-long wine learner. Wine knowledge is vast and ever-evolving. Anyone who claims to know everything about wine just proved they do not. That applies to you and your fellow wine drinkers.• Enjoy wine. Wine is a palate pleasure, not a vehicle to flaunt status or a way to show off. Geez, please.• Accept and appreciate the preferences of others. If you want to be a “good” wine snob, work on “tasting through someone else’s mouth.” Who knows, you may have an epiphanic moment and discover a whole new lane of delectation—maybe you will find something you like that you did not expect to like.• If someone asks for wine advice, gently guide rather than dictate. Sublimate the tyranny of your proclivities. Instead, facilitate helping others find their own wine way.• Celebrate diversity. There are thousands of wines made thousands of ways. That is wine’s wonder and glory. It is not your way or the highway. If it is your way or the highway, then don’t let the door hit your butt on the way out to travel that lonely road.• Explore new horizons. When you celebrate diversity, you may stumble upon pleasures you never expected. That is the wonder of wine.• Patience is a virtue in almost all things, including wine. Allow others to learn about wine at their own pace, and allow yourself to do the same.This column strives to entertain and inform you about wine. Sixteen years ago, I wrote in my first column: “If a wine tastes good to you, then it’s good no matter how a wine expert responds.” I have stayed true to that proposition, and suggest you do the same. Thank each of you for being part of the journey.Tasting notes• J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot, Paso Robles 2021: Soft, creamy, plush mouthfeel, gains subtlety with exposure to air. Not complex, just a delicious, easy drinker. $12-17 Link to my review• San Simeon Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles 2023: Bright, refreshing, good acidity, vivid fruit—all  you want from a sauv blanc from long-time quality maker. $18-20 Link to my review• Invivo X SJP Sarah Jessica Parker Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand 2022: Exciting, edgy NZ pinot. Real collaboration between quality maker and celebrity. Good texture and complexity. $19-27 Link to my reviewLast roundWhat do you call Dracula when he has hay fever? The Pollen Count. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnEven if you only dip your big toe into wine wonkiness, you likely encounter the term “malolactic fermentation” or MLF. What is that?Well, this being wine, it actually is not fermentation, which involves yeast. It is a conversion, which involves bacteria. The primary bacteria is Oenococcus oeni—try saying that three times in a row after a couple of glasses of wine (or even before). The process is a decarboxylation conversion—malic acid turns into lactic acid. What does that mean in words of less than five syllables?Malolactic conversion reduces acidity and softens the taste of wine. It almost always is done with red wine. It usually is done with white wines where a rounder, creamier profile is wanted. Chardonnay is classic example, as are viognier, marsanne, roussane, and white Burgundy. On the other hand, MLF usually is prevented in sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio/pinot gris, riesling, vermentino, and other whites where acidity and floral aromas are prized.Wineries encourage MLF by inoculation of bacteria and control of temperature (warmer is better), acidity (lower is better—above 3.3 pH), and avoiding sulfur dioxide. Wineries discourage MLF by keeping temperatures lower, keeping pH less than 3.3, adding sulfur dioxide, sterile filtration, and other methods.If you enjoy a full-bodied, creamy, buttery, smooth chardonnay, you have MLF in an oak barrel to thank. If you prefer tangy fruit, great acidity, the powerful aromatics of sauvignon blanc or riesling, you have the prevention of MLF to thank.Almost all red wines undergo MLF. Some beaujolais nouveau wines skip MLF. Italian amarone typically does not undergo MLF. Just about every other red has MLF as part of its making regimen.Like their color, rosé wines fall in the middle. Classic Provence rosés usually avoid MLF. Darker rosés and rosés finished in oak are much more likely to have partial of full MLF.Sparkling wine MLF depends on the maker. Krug and Bollinger use full MLF. Louis Roederer often blocks MLF. Cristal—Louis Roederer’s prestige pour—experiences partial MLF.Malolactic fermentation—technically malolactic conversion—is an important winemaking tool. If you have read this far, you have more than dipped your toe into wine wonkiness.Tasting notes• Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Dry Riesling, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2022: Sleek, crisp, delicate aromatics. $22-28 Link to my review• Sealionne Wines Halcyon Chardonnay, Chehalem Mountains AVA, Willamette Valley 2022: Unique flavors through fermentation mix of stainless steel, oak, amphora. $45 Link to my review• Three Sticks One Sky Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021: Superb, classic Sonoma pinot from highest vineyard in the AVA. Delicious fruit, depth, length, structure. $85 Link to my reviewLast roundDouble negatives are a big no-no. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnCommercialization defines wine 8-21-2024Wine is fermented grape juice, an agricultural product like green beans and corn. But that is not how we think about wine. Why?We think of wine as a consequence of culture rather than agri-culture. Wine is treated like an aesthetic product, similar to the arts, with special terminology, in-depth discussion and analysis, reviews by experts.But wine also is a commercial product. It has been for thousands of years, and the special dynamics of it being a commercial product shaped wine and how you think about wine. In 2021, the most recent complete statistics, the world made 34 billion bottles of wine with a market value of $53 billion. Wine is a commercial product.Place—“terroir”—is a central belief in wine’s mythos. As far back as ancient Greece, elites believed wines from distant places were special. The simple folk drank locally produced fermented grape juice or beer. The rich and powerful drank wine. Commercial value was enhanced by the wine coming from a distant place.Gironde Estuary. Photo: Chell HillThat had a major impact on where “fine wine” came from. When you mention Bordeaux your first thought is about wine, not about an estuary. But the Gironde estuary is why great wine chateaus are located on Bordeaux’s left and right banks. The sea gave chateaus trade access to England and Northern Europe, where climate prevented wine production. When you can’t produce something in your back yard and must have it shipped to you, it takes on special value you are willing to pay for.All the great wine regions of France, Italy, and Spain—the world’s largest wine producers—are located on rivers that facilitate transport and trade. The situation creates a self-reinforcing loop. The chateaus of Bordeaux make money exporting a luxury product, then use the generated wealth to improve their product and reinforce the sophisticated image of their product and create more demand for it.Terroir is a real thing, but it is the product of winemakers using profits to experiment and learn about what works best on their piece of land. Commercial trade is the reason wineries were located where they are. Knowledge paid for by profits from commercial trade is the reason those places became the best places to make wine.I believe wine can be a mystical artistic expression of soaring human endeavors and the good graces of God and nature. But we got there because someone made fermented grape juice worth buying and someone else was willing to pay for it.Last roundThe past—history. The future—mystery. Today—a gift. That is why we call it the present. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnDid the extinction of dinosaurs play a part in the creation of wine? While it may sound far-fetched,  according to an article in the prestigious, peer-reviewed scientific journal Nature Plants, there is scientific evidence to support the theory.Researchers discovered fossil grape seeds in South America dating back 60 million years. Fossil grape seed evidence in India dates back 66 million years. The dinosaur extinction occurred 66 million years ago. Coincidence? Science indicates no.The extinction marks the end of the Cretaceous Period. Approximately 75 percent of all plant and animal species were lost, including all non-avian dinosaurs. That transformed the entire world. With large animals not around to eat or knock down trees, forests reset themselves, becoming much more dense and layered. Trees grew taller, and there were many more of them.Grape vines are tree climbers. Trees are their natural habitat. As trees grew up, grape vines were right there with them, climbing toward sunlight. Vineyard structures are simulated trees. The increase in birds and mammals also helped. Grape globes are designed to be eaten. Grape seeds are designed to survive digestion, then spread by animals that eat them.Soft, grape globes, of course, did not fossilize. Seeds did. Although grape seeds are tiny, scientists identified particular shapes and other morphological features. CT scans identified internal structures that confirmed the grape seed identity.While grape vines existed before the great extinction, the extinction created vast new, favorable conditions and ecological niches. The extinction did not cause the appearance of grape vines, it did favor their spread and diversification, as it did for all flowering plants.The next time you sip wine or munch on a raisin or a table grape, pause to thank the asteroid that slammed into Earth 66 million years ago. That event may have killed dinosaurs, but it helped give us grape vines. And wine.Tasting notes• FIOL Prosecco Rosé Millesimato 2021: Fresh, fruity, elegant, fun. Blend of 85% glera and 15% pinot noir. Ideal for a Sunday brunch. $18 Link to my review• Baron Philippe de Rothschild Mouton Cadet Blanc X Nathan 2023: Low acidity—for a sauv blanc—allows tasty fruit to shine. People not into sauv blanc will enjoy this effort. $16-19 Link to my review• Etude Pinot Gris, Grace Benoist Ranch Vineyard, Carneros 2022: Bright, fresh, easy drinker; delivers depth, aromatic intensity. $23-28 Link to my review• Rodney Strong Vineyards Russian River Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2021: Rich, premium pour. Skillfully touches all the bases of the oak and malo Russian River style; avoids cartoony excess. $46-50 Link to my reviewLast roundDrinking wine usually is not the answer, but it does help you forget the question.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnAugust. For many, triple digit degree days. Time to beat the heat with chilled rosé.Except, what exactly is rosé? Surprisingly, in the often rigid, rule-ridden world of wine, there is no consensus definition of what is a rosé.Are not wines divided into red, white, rosé, and amber/orange? It might be nice, but they are not. Turns out, only white wine has a strict definition. At an event in London, renowned rosé specialist and Master of Wine Elizabeth Gabay stated: “I think we should get rid of the terms red, white, rosé and orange wine, because the gradations are not really there.”When asked if the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV) should come up with hard and fast definitions, she replied: “Absolutely not. I love the blurry line.”SamanthaThere is a generally accepted, but rough, division. White wines are fermented with no or only briefest contact with grape skins. Juice is separated from grape skins before fermentation begins.OIV also has a definition for white grapes when fermentation occurs during prolonged contact with skins, pulp, seeds, and stems. This is “amber” or “orange” wine, a reference to the wine’s color. There is some term turmoil about “orange” because the wine is not quite orange and it is not made with oranges, but there is agreement that so-named wines are made with a defined method.When it comes to red wine and rosé, however, the OIV does not have a precise definition. The organization does provide methods for assessing wine colors using spectrophotometry. The OIV states it “has a general definition for wine, but no specific definition for wine colours, which can be described according to the grape varieties and production methods, or by colour determination via analytical methods.”Specifically on rosé wines, the OIV comments: “For what concerns rosé wine, the main problem is a lack of a clear definition and therefore for many counties this category is included in red wine.”While the definition may not be precise, there is no question rosé is on the rise. Globally, white wine represents half of all wine produced. Red wine represents 42% and rosé 8%. But, in 2021 (last year for complete numbers), red wine production decreased 25% from its peak in 2004, white wine increased 13% from its low in 2002, and rosé increased 25% from its low in 2001.Rosé—you know it when you see it.Last roundWhy do scuba divers fall backwards off of the boat? Because if they fell forward, they’d still be in the boat. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  Gus Clemens on Wine websiteFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnTasting science used to be so simple. Alas, no more.Back in 1901, a German scientist opined various taste receptors were orderly segregated on your tongue in specific places. Sweet on your tip, salty on the sides, sour behind them, bitter in the back. Nice, neat, wrong.Modern science—the flawed German study is from 1901—confirms the perception of taste is remarkably complex and not limited to your tongue. Judging flavors is deeply integrated into what is good for you to eat and what is not, so it should be no surprise that hundreds of thousands of years of tasting experience created a complex and extremely sophisticated human palate. If it had not, you and I would not be around to read about this.Yes, it does start with the tongue. Sensors alert the brain when they encounter nutrients or toxins. Pleasure or poison is the first threshold. Horrible, you instinctively spit it out. But your response does not stop after that initial pass-fail taste test. When alerted, your gastrointestinal tract, liver, pancreas, fat cells, brain, muscle cells, and lungs also spring into action. Your tongue taste buds alert your body in the same way an airport system responds to an airplane coming in for a landing. Your tongue may be the control tower, but it only sets everything else into motion.Ivan Pavlov, a Russian physiologist who won a Nobel Prize for his studies on digestion in 1904, showed lumps of meat placed directly into a hole in the dog’s stomach would not be digested unless he dusted the dog’s tongue with some dried meat powder to start things off. Dog food, wine. Who knew they would be connected?I do not know of scientific studies to back me up, but I assert there is a connection between wine—essentially liquid fruit—and your body’s collective response to nourishment. Wine has complemented our food for at least 8,000 years, likely longer. When human beings find something that works, they tend to expand upon it.Cheers.Tasting notes• Rainstorm Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2022: Bright, fresh with good tartness, citrus. Delightful wine with the tartness and acidity to pair well with lighter fare. $16-18 Link to my review• Ramōn Bilbao Verdejo, Rueda 2022: Crisp, fruity, refreshing. Bright, inviting, vibrant pleasure in the mouth. $18-23 Link to my review• Becker Vineyards Prairie Cuvée, Texas High Plains 2019: Light, refreshing, full fruity flavor. Classic Rhône blend using Texas-grown grapes by substantial player in state’s ascendency in the wine world. $25 Link to my reviewLast roundCommas are so very important. “Your dinner” (no comma) leaves you nourished. “You’re dinner” (comma) leaves you eaten. Wine time. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnDirect-to-consumer (DtC) wine shipping enjoys exponential growth. This is a great and welcome boon to wine makers, especially smaller ones who effectively are ignored by mega wholesalers.But the trend rattles those same near-monopoly wholesalers—Southern Glazer’s and Republic National. And they are fighting back by lobbying to restrict DtC in state legislatures and making delivery more complicated.Fear mongering about DtC leading to minors securing alcohol is a major meme. Claim: when DtC rules are relaxed, there is more underage drinking. They offer no proof of their claim because none exists. In fact, underage drinking is historically down in the past decade.Common sense and experience tells you teenagers are not going to order wine online to be delivered days later. Why would anyone under 21 go to that trouble when all they need do is raid their parent’s stash, recruit a friend who is over 21 to buy, buy themselves at a compliant store or with a fake ID, or simply steal from the store? That is how it has worked from time out of memory.That is not to say DtC providers should ignore underage drinking. Many times a week I receive DtC wines from wineries who want me to review their wine. I am in my mid-70s. Delivery people still ask to see an ID the first time they come, and have me sign for the delivery every time. That is reality. Ignore the bogus scare tactics of those who oppose DtC.The core of the problem is the entrenched hangover from Prohibition: the three-tier system. The system divides the alcohol supply chain into producer, wholesaler, and retailer. The two middle-men, the wholesaler and the retailer, each get their cut of the action and raise the product price.Smaller wineries are not noticed by the big dog wholesalers and must make do with wine club and on-premise winery sales. That hurts the boutique wineries and deprives you of quality, small production wine experiences. As DtC opportunities increase, it benefits wineries and consumers. It hurts big wholesalers and retailers, and they are using all their lobbying clout to thwart this trend.You can easily surmise where my sympathies lie.Tasting notes• Grape Creek Vineyards Cuvée Blanc White Wine, Texas 2022: Excellent mouthfeel and rich, tasty fruit backed by jaunty acidity. Sterling example of why Texas wines must be taken seriously. $24-30 Link to my review• Three Sticks One Sky Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021: Delicious fruit, depth, length, structure. $85 Link to my reviewLast roundQuestion: “Which hand do you use when cutting your steak?”Answer: “I don’t use my hand, I use a knife.” Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnA miracle is happening right now in vineyards throughout the northern hemisphere.“Véraison” is the French term for the time when a wine vine’s tiny, tight green nubs morph into plump, tasty, colorful globes. Red grapes transition from green to red, purple, blue, or black. White grapes transition from green to translucent yellow, orange, or gold.Olivier LemoineIn addition to color changes grapes undergo other vital changes.• Grapes soften, become juicier and more pliable.• Grapes can double in size as they accumulate sugars and other nutrients.• Glucose and fructose levels—sugars—increase, critical to the later production of alcohol.• Malic acid decreases, making tartaric acid predominant, critical for flavor balance.• Herbaceous—green—aromas and taste degrade, replaced by fruity aromas.• The concentration and composition of phenolic compounds, especially tannins, change. Riper grapes with well-developed phenolics are smoother, more complex, and have a more pleasant mouthfeel.• Vines shift from energy production through photosynthesis—leaf production—to energy consumption, concentrating energy to make ripe, sweet grapes.• Véraison occurs in the northern hemisphere beginning in mid-to-late July, but grape variety, temperature, climate, and region influence the process. It may not begin until mid-August some places.• Véraison may not occur simultaneously in a vineyard or even on a single vine. Vines that undergo véraison more evenly generally produce wines with greater complexity and depth.• Véraison means harvest is 45 to 60 days away. Precise timing of the harvest is critical in the production of quality wine. That largely is under the control of humans. Véraison is the magical time that sets up the harvest. That is almost exclusively under the control of God and Mother Nature. The wine you enjoy is the product of this symbiotic relationship.Tasting notes• MGM Mondo del Vino Riva Leone Gavi DOCG 2021: Delicious dry, light wine with admirable crispness and delicious cortese fruit. $15-17 Link to my review• Gigondas La Cave Le Dit De Saint Tronquet, Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu 2022: Solid GSM from Rhône Villages cooperative in a special place—“God’s Plan” [Plan de Dieu]. $18 Link to my review• Hahn Family Wines Appellation Series Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco 2021: Rich, full, round, clean; impressive example of oaked chardonnay, touches all the delicious, well-made chard bases. $22-25 Link to my review• Texas Heritage Vineyard Viognier, Wildseed Farms Vineyard, Texas Hill Country 2022: Deep, delicious, robust, aromatic expression of Texas viognier. $21-28 Link to my review• M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Petite Ruche Blanc 2021: Plump pleaser, rich, fruity, medium-plus body marsanne play. $27 Link to my reviewLast roundDid you hear about the mathematician who was afraid of negative numbers? He would stop at nothing to avoid them. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnAs the Nat King Cole song goes, “Roll out those lazy, hazy days of summer.” But instead of soda and pretzels and beer, it is so much nicer to sip well-chilled rosé.The rosé cliché is that it is only a summertime wine. Not remotely true, but rosé certainly is a lovely libation—both in taste and color—as we endure the trials Sol slings at us.Rosé is light-bodied, fresh and fruity, moderate alcohol. Those are all good things for a scorching day thirst quencher. Rosé also pairs well with the lighter food we eat in summer.Rosés come in many colors. Some sippers immediately think of the very pale rosés from Côtes de Provence, but color is an indication of style, not quality. Rosés from the Tavel region of the Rhone Valley or the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo region of Italy are dark rosés and excellent rosés.There are four techniques used to make rosé:• Direct pressing involves pressing red grapes immediately after harvest allowing minimal skin contact and occurs before fermentation begins. This produces the palest pink wine. Pale rosés usually deliver flavors of strawberries, raspberries, watermelon, cantaloupe. Pale Provence rosés are made using this technique.• Saignée (French for “bleeding”) involves allowing a portion of red wine to “bleed” off early in fermentation. This produces wines darker than direct press. Saignée tends to promote raspberry and blackberry flavors and aromas. Saignée rosé wines also can be more tannic and suitable for aging.• Maceration involves leaving the juice in contact with the skins for an extended period. The longer the maceration, the darker the color. When the desired color is achieved, the must—the mix of juice, skins, stems, and seeds—is pressed and fermentation begins. This is another popular method in Provence and is used to make their most serious rosés.• A final method, particularly used in Champagne to produce rosé sparkling wine, involves blending a small amount of red wine into white wine. Champagne makers focus on a consistent product year upon year. Blending allows for the most control of the product.Tasting notes• Ultimate Provence UP Côtes de Provence Rosé 2022: Tangy edge plays well with juicy red fruits. Richer, more body than the diaphanous efforts of some Provence purveyors. $20-23 Link to my review• William Chris Vineyards La Pradera Rosé, Texas High Plains 2022: Tasty red fruit with an emphasis on mourvèdre in this vintage. $24 Link to my review• Wedding Oak Winery Sweetheart Rosé, Texas 2021: Delight, delicious fruit. Elegant, substantial. Complexity from a well-coordinated mélange of Texas red grapes. $29 Link to my reviewLast roundHyphenated and non-hyphenated. Ah, the ironies of the English language. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnWe celebrate the 248th anniversary of the adoption of the Declaration of Independence tomorrow. There may be fireworks and parades, but most of us will simply honor the Fourth with family and friends. And barbecue, or at least outdoor time.What wine do you pair with backyard festivities. Some ideas:• The day is very likely to be hot. While heavy, bold, high alcohol red wines work well with barbecue and grilled steaks, such libations do not work well with July heat. Big red wines taste heavy. High alcohol and high heat do not play well together.• There are light-bodied, chillable reds with enough body to pair with the fare, and their lower alcohol, fruit-forward presentation works with both heat and meat. Think gamay, lighter pinot noir, and offerings actually labeled as “chillable red.” All of these can be chilled, a good way to go in high summer.• Amber wines, also inappropriately called “orange” wines. These are white wines made with skin contact like they were a red wine. Refreshing and hip. Great food wine with spicy food, sausage, grilled vegetables.• Pet nat (pétillant naturel) is sparkling made the very old fashioned way—the way sparkling was made before méthode champenoise was invented. Like amber wines, the next big thing in wine. Ideal for casual, fun happenings. Bubbles buoy the Fourth vibe. Yeasty flavors and hint of residual sugar are ideal for barbecue seasonings.• Rosé wines. Get over it, guys. Rosé wines are versatile and delicious and are not girly, girly sissified swill. Only insecure males think such thoughts.• Versatile, food-friendly whites. Dry riesling, grüner veltliner, vinho verde (which can be white, rosé, or red). Excellent, refreshing wines that can be served quite chilled. Lower alcohol and good acidity makes them excellent food wines that fare well with fare in a summer scorcher.Tasting notes• Herzog Wine Cellars Lineage Rosé, Clarksburg 2022: Easy-going, pleasant delight. Perfect warm weather sipper with lighter food or just enjoyed by itself. Mevushal. $17-22 Link to my review• Hager Matthias Pét Nat Grüner Veltliner 2021: Refreshing, lower alcohol effort that is and trendy and versatile and presents excellent fruit. $29 Link to my review• Kivelstadt Cellars Wayward Son Skin Fermented Pinot Grigio, Pintail Ranch Vineyard, Clarksburg, Sonoma 2022: Tasty, serious skin-fermented amber wine made with pinot grigio. $25-32 Link to my review• William Chris Vineyards La Pradera Vineyard Blend, Texas High Plains 2020: Rich, delicious celebration of a five-grape medley of Texas High Plains red fruit. Solid, smooth, easy drinker from significant Texas maker. $45-50 Last roundWhat did Luke Skywalker say on the 4th of July? “May the fourth be with you.” Wine time.Thank you for reading Gus Clemens on Wine. This post is public so feel free to share it.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnPét-Nat or Pétillant-Naturel. What the heck is that “next big thing” in wine?The “next big thing” designation is ironic because, in truth, it is the oldest thing in sparkling wines. It was how sparkling wine was made before the development of the methods you know today. In English, Pétillant-Naturel simply means “naturally bubbling.”Pét-Nat is made using a technique—“méthode ancestrale”—that originated in Limoux in southern France in the 1500s. It involves a single fermentation. Méthode champenoise or “traditional method” uses two fermentations to make Champagne and other sparkling wines.Bottling takes place before the primary fermentation is complete. Yeasts remain actively converting sugars into alcohol. And into CO2—the bubbles. The wines tend to be lower in alcohol with softer, more delicate bubbles than sparkling made using traditional methods. Because there is less pressure—half that of Champagnne—Pét-Nat typically is sealed with a crown cap, the closure you find on beer or soda pop bottles.Pét-Nat usually is unfiltered, so it often is cloudy. Those are the spent yeast cells that created the alcohol and bubbles. It is made with a variety of grapes, resulting in a spectrum of colors and styles. There are a wide range of aromas and flavors. Often there is a slight sweetness, although there are dry examples. Adjectives like wild, funky, rustic often are associated with Pét-Nat.Christian Chaussard in Vouvray revived the ancient technique in the early 1990s when he accidentally produced a fizzy wine by bottling before fermentation was complete. He found the wine tasty. Buyers found something new and trendy. Pét-Nat started being the “next big thing.” At first, there was more buzz about it than sales or availability warranted, but that changed. You likely can find Pét-Nat at a well-stocked supermarket today. It typically is affordable, casual, refreshing. Lower alcohol makes it attractive for everyday drinking and to those seeking to reduce alcohol intake.A caution. Pét-Nat production is hard to control and requires winemaker skill. Results can be variable, depending on the grapes used and where they were grown. Quality is not guaranteed. Pét-Nat is a process description, not a narrow wine description.Worth a sip, especially if you are a new and trendy sort of sipper.Tasting note• Hager Matthias Pét-Nat Grüner Veltliner 2021: Refreshing, lower alcohol effort that is and trendy and versatile. Presents excellent fruit. Works well as aperitif. $20-29 Link to my reviewLast roundI told my daughter to go to bed because cows were sleeping in the fields.“What does that have to do with anything?” she asked.“It means it is pasture bedtime,” I responded. Wine time.Thank you for reading Gus Clemens on Wine. This post is public so feel free to share it.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnThere is panic and turmoil in high dollar wines you and I do not buy.This is not about big dollar wines we could buy—Caymus, Jordan, Daou. You can purchase them at higher-end grocery stores. The turmoil is with wines you only can buy from an allocation list or very high-end wine stores. Covid and an influx of wines competing at pompous price points upended everything.A lot goes into wines in that rarified price category. Millions invested—in Napa vineyards, in famous winemakers, in famous architects for the winery and tasting rooms. All goes into the bottle price.And then there is trophy wine branding. People buy such wines not just for silky tannins and layers of bing cherry, ripe raspberry, and blackcurrant backbone. People buy so they can say to themselves, and especially to others, they can buy the wine.When a winery decides to play in that bedazzling arena, it must protect its brand. And that is when flop sweat starts dripping. Recent years have not been kind. Demand down. People pinching purses purchase product from lower shelves. Purveyors panicked when pricey vintages went unsold. Then—horror of horrors—they did the unthinkable. They discounted.When you sell your wine for $750 a bottle, the play is “if you won’t pay this much, there is someone else who will, and when this sells, there aren’t any more.” But rarity and exclusiveness are evanescent qualities. When the first merchant decides to clear his shelf and sells the wine discounted to $500, the shift hits the fans. Why pay high when you can wait and buy low. People who can afford such luxuries figured this out long ago.When a Calistoga high end winery discovered a shop was going out of business and offered their wine at clearance prices, the winery immediately sent a distributor to buy the entire inventory to protect the price point.“The moment people feel the product is easy to get at a discounted price, all of a sudden the rarity has evaporated,” Dave Parker, CEO of rare-wine retailer Benchmark Wine Group in Napa, told Wine Spectator.If you are like me, you are not going to buy a $750 bottle of wine even at $500. But it is nice to note that as wine over-supply and clearance pricing trickles down, we may be in line for some sweet deals.Last roundAn orangutan in the zoo has two books: The Bible and Darwin’s Origin Of Species. The orangutan is trying to figure out if he is his brother’s keeper—or his keeper’s brother. Wine time.Thank you for reading Gus Clemens on Wine. This post is public so feel free to share it.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnMost of us drink a bottle of wine soon after purchase. From an hour after we get home to a couple of days or weeks. Wine storage in such cases basically is unimportant.But what about those who actually age wine. Maybe you bought a case at a winery and want to savor it over the next year or two. Or you open one bottle a year on a special day for the next dozen years. Or, maybe you really have gotten into wine and have a sizable collection you want to preserve and keep in optimal condition. What to do? Guidelines:• Temperature is wine’s greatest enemy. When it gets too hot, say spending a day or two in high summer in your car, heat will dull aromas and flavors. It also may cause the cork to lift and some wine to ooze out. Cold can be bad, too. Your refrigerator likely is around 35-38º F and has very low humidity that eventually can shrink the cork, but even if that does not happen, wine at near freezing temperature dulls flavor.• The ideal temperature for wine storage is around 55º F, but between 50º F and 70º F will work. You mostly want to avoid temperature shifts, especially significant ones. But don’t fret about this too much. If you are storing in your house and consuming over the next year or so, it is unlikely in today’s HVAC homes you will flirt with danger.• UV light is the other potential vino villain. The reason most wines come in colored glass bottles is to thwart the rapacious ravages of sunlight. A closet or well-shaded part of your house will work fine.• Humidity is somewhat controversial. Conventional wisdom is to lay wine on its side so the cork is wetted by the wine, but cork producers contend the humidity inside the bottle is constant lying down or standing up, so don’t stress about this. Whatever. Horizontal is more efficient use of space, which is reason enough.• Wine enchants you, wise investments enable you, and you are big into wine. Maybe 100 or more bottles, some trophies you want to age. Time to invest in a wine fridge. From my personal experience, go with a single temperature zone and go with generous space in the shelving to accommodate fatter burgundy/chardonnay bottle sizes. And you will be surprised at how quickly you run out of space.Last roundI met my future wife while she was working at the zoo. She was in her uniform. Straightaway I knew she was a keeper. Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Thank you for reading Gus Clemens on Wine. This post is public so feel free to share it.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly column“If you could only drink one wine for the rest of your life, what wine would that be?” I get that question often.As a Catholic, my tongue-in-cheek answer: “Consecrated communion wine because I am in Hell.”Related question: “What is your favorite wine?”As a humorist, my quip: “Whatever you are pouring.”The answer to the base question: I enjoy all competently-made wines. When I taste sweeter wines, although not my first choice, I strive to evaluate the wine from the perspective of someone who prefers sweeter wines. And share fair comments with readers.That said, there are wines I am more likely to pour:• Pinot noir. Lighter body, delicate, nuanced flavors, good acidity, restrained tannins, elegant and silky mouthfeel. Versatile pairing from fish to poultry to white meats and lighter beef. Delicious as a red wine, a key component of many Champagnes.• Sauvignon blanc. Good to great acidity; pairs with with huge range of foods.• Red blends. I prefer blends over pure varietals because blends can deliver more complexity and depth, although I can enjoy a pure varietal play. Blend examples include:• GSM. Grenache-syrah-mouvédre. Wonderful blend of three varieties I enjoy.• Bordeaux blend. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, sometimes petite verdot, malbec, carménère. Classic big reds.• Spanish blends. Tempranillo-garnacha (Rioja). Garnacha-cariñena (Priorat). Tempranilo-cab, merlot, malbec (Ribera del Duero). There are excellent Spanish white blends, too.• Italian blends. Sangiovese with a variety of blenders.• Sparkling wine. From Champagne, to Spanish cava, to Italian spumantes and proseccos.• Chardonnay. So versatile. Can be made in almost every style; a key component of Champagne and other sparklings.• Australia. Shiraz, perfect for beef pairing.• New Zealand. Sauvignon blanc and, increasingly, pinot noir.• Chile and Argentina. Huge values. Is there a better value-for-price play than malbec?• Portugal. Wide selection at fantastic price points.• Zinfandel. Bold ripe fruit, soft tannins, potentially high alcohol. What’s not to love?• Others: riesling, vinho verde, grüner veltliner, maderia, gewürztraminer, viognier, pinot gris/grigio.Happy to narrow it down for you.Tasting notes:• Hope Family Wines Treana Sauvignon Blanc, California 2022: Smooth, very approachable; retains food-friendly acidity. $18-20 Link to my review• Lake Sonoma Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2020: Fulsome, substantial expression of Russian River Valley chard. Rich, engaging in the mouth. $20-25 Link to my review• Privé Vineyard Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountain AVA 2022: Refined, reserved joy in the mouth. Solid reason Willamette Valley is world-class provider of pinot. $60 Link to my review• Dobbes Family Estate Patricia’s Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2021: Rich, opulent, hedonistic delight; excellent fruit, impressive complexity, wonderful texture, mouthfeel. $60 Link to my reviewLast roundSomebody stole Satan’s hairpiece! There will be Hell toupee. Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Thank you for reading Gus Clemens on Wine. This post is public so feel free to share it.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnIn an opinion survey by YouGov, Americans claimed “bottle or label design” was the least important factor in their selection of a wine. That might be an expected response to an online questionnaire. Few people confess to being lured by clever critter names and images, or campy convict references, or hernia-inducing bottle weights.But, come on, you are influenced. If you were not, wineries and marketing mavens and money managers would not pay so much attention and dollars to bottles/containers and labels. Anecdotal evidence is especially strong that people, especially those not heavily into wine, are influenced by these factors.Today, the container is the new delta in the wine consumer equation. Screw caps were the tip of the change spear in past decades. It now is generally accepted that screw caps, also called Stelvin closures, are just another way of sealing a container and is not an indicator of inferior quality. Whole nations—New Zealand is the poster country—predominantly use screw caps. No one questions their quality, especially for wines consumed in the decade after release.Newer battlegrounds involve containers. Massive glass bottles traditionally implied quality. That is an emotional rather than a rational response. Glass is glass. It works very well containing wine regardless of its weight. Environmentally and economically, weighty bottles make no sense in production, transportation, and disposal. Let us hope the growing trend of sensible bottle weights continues.Non-glass is the new front line in wine packaging. Boxed wine—actually a plastic bag inside a cardboard box—has a solid base. Once the realm of cheap, inferior wine, now many makers produce quality. The fact the wine stays fresh after initial opening for a month is a huge selling point. You can’t age box wine, but almost all wine you buy is not purchased to be aged.Tetra paks are small boxes made of cardboard, plastic, and aluminum. They are especially ideal for wines drunk young at a beach, poolside, picnic, or any situation where portability and safety from broken glass is an asset. Versions of this have worked for milk, fruit juice, and other liquids for years. Why not wines?Cans. Similar advantages as tetra paks. Has worked for beer—for many foods and liquids—for more than a century. Why not wines?Focus on what is in the container and how you will use it, not the closure or its weight or the material used to make it. Onward into the future of wine.Last roundI met a microbiologist today. He was much bigger than I expected. Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnWhat do Americans think about wine? 5-22-2024What wines do Americans prefer, how much are they willing to pay for it, and what are their general views about wine?YouGov, a British market research and data analytics firm, recently surveyed 1,117 U.S. adults to gain insights. Their results are very detailed; we will give a simpler-to-digest overview. There is a plus/minus four precent margin of error. YouGov’s research gives you a ballpark idea.Some 73% said they loved or liked white wine; 72% said the same about red wine. Rosé scored 66% in the love-like category; 63% said the same about sparkling.Gender preferences is a slightly different question. When asked what type of wine they prefer, 56% of males and 44% of females said they preferred red, while 42% of females preferred white in contrast to only 30% of males. Roughly 14% of both sexes either did not have a preference or were not sure.Health warnings about wine have been in the news recently. Americans apparently are not all that concerned. Some 40% asserted wine is beneficial to your health, 23% said it has no effect, and 27% were not sure. Only 11% believed wine is detrimental to health.When asked how much you typically pay for a bottle of wine, a whopping 45% said between $11 and $20. The number goes to 65% for the $11-$40 range. Price matters. A landslide 89% said price was very important or somewhat important.When asked if they thought they could tell the difference between a $10 bottle and a $100 bottle in a blind tasting of the same varietal, 35% said they definitely could or probably could, while 65% thought they probably could not, definitely could not, or were unsure.When asked how often they drank wine—a question where people often low-ball their answer—only 2% said they drank wine daily. Some 11% said a few times a week or once a week; 24% said only on special occasions, and the largest cohort—38%—said they never drink wine, although they may drink other alcoholic beverages.Tasting notes• Familia Traversa Sauvignon Blanc, Uruguay 2022: Intriguing tension between hints of sweetness and salinity. Very refreshing. Versatile. $9-14 Link to my review• Famiglia Pasqua 11 Minutes Odi Et Amo Rosé Trevenezie 2022: Crisp light delight. Strawberries, citrus in an engaging bottle. $16-18 Link to my review• Hahn Family Wines Appellation Series GSM, Arroyo Seco 2021: Classic GSM built to be an amiable palate pleaser. $18-23 Link to my reviewLast roundWhy do I waste energy saying “it is what it is” to someone who has no idea what it is? Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnThe world has a glut of wine. In some ways, a good thing for wine buyers. With supply up and demand down, wine makers have to make sacrifices to move their product. The old seller’s adage applies: “I would rather have 50% of something than 100% of nothing.”Maybe that higher-end, higher-quality wine of your fantasies will move into your pocketbook possibility zone. But danger also lurks. The brand that now looks like a bargain may not be exactly what initially enchanted your imagination.Fortunately, the label must give you clues. But you have to know what to look for.There is so much excess wine today makers are conjuring ways to use some of the glut to tempt you with a bogus bargain. A key ploy is to produce bottles with labels that look almost identical to their existing, higher-priced offerings. All seems the same, but there is one tell—the place where the fruit came from may be different from the one you think you are buying.Example: a wine labeled “Sonoma County” typically is a reassurance of quality, and indicates all—or at least 75% of the grapes—come from that premier grape growing region. When the wine label reads “California,” that is something else. The wine could have come from anywhere in California.If the label says “American,” 25% of it could be imported from overseas. Federal records indicate 68 million gallons of imported wine—most of it bulk wine—came into the U.S. in 2022, compared to 51 million gallons in 2020.You will most-often encounter vague designations in supermarket wines and discount wine stores. Many supermarkets sell wines under their “exclusive” labels. What that really means is the supermarket buys “shiners”—wine bottles without labels—and puts their “exclusive” label on the bottle. Two supermarkets can sell exclusive wines that came from exactly the same maker off the same bottling line. The only difference is the label.This is not a scam. If you like the wine, great. Enjoy away. Makers of shiners can make very acceptable wine. The wine may be a commodity wine made in huge amounts to a certain flavor profile concocted from bulk wine, but millions of people enjoy those wines. You can, too, with no shame.But if you always wanted to try the genuine article of your vino dreams, carefully examine the label. If a deal is too good to be true, it usually is not.Last roundThe CEO of IKEA has just been elected prime minister of Sweden. Currently, he is assembling his cabinet. Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnThis is the final episode of our adventure into the world of wine descriptors.• Spicy: Various grapes contribute spice—syrah, zinfandel, petite sirah, malbec, grenache, gewürztraminer, riesling, and viognier typically are cited as being spicy. Oak barrels also impart spice. Common spice flavors are cinnamon, pepper, anise, clove, nutmeg, ginger, and mint. For most sippers, a slice of spice is a nice thing to encounter in the wine.• Dry, Semi-dry, Sweet: Refers to the amount of residual sugar. In broad terms, in dry wine, all the sugar was converted to alcohol. In sweet wine there is residual sugar. Semi-dry falls in between. These are the general terms. Still wines and sparkling wines have different nomenclatures and more nuanced divisions. In still wines, going from driest to sweetest, the wine can be bone-dry, dry, off-dry, medium sweet, and sweet. In sparkling wines, going from driest to sweetest, the wine can be brut nature, extra brut, brut, extra-dry, dry, demi-sec, and doux. Sweetness often is the first characteristic you notice when tasting wine.• Final thoughts: Wine descriptors—and their fellow partners in crime, wine scores—are inherently, patently imperfect, sometimes ridiculous. But we live in a chaotic world assaulted by a hurricane of choices. We rely on others to help separate the wheat from the chaff all the time. Recommendations from family and friends for all manner of things. Book reviews. Movie reviews. Restaurant reviews. Customer reviews.And so it goes with wine. Can written words perfectly describe the experience you will have with a specific wine? Of course not, and every reputable wine writer knows that and will be quick to tell you. In the best case, the words entertain you and give you some assistance as you face a wall of wine choices at your wine store, supermarket, or online seller. Imperfectly passing on knowledge and experience is the skill set that makes us humans.Tasting notes• Gillmore Collezione del Maule, Valle del Loncomilla, Chile 2020: Blend of four Italian grape varieties grown in Chile. Exceptionally smooth, sophisticated, delicious. $18-20 Link to my review• Van Duzer Dijon Blocks Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Van Duzer Corridor, Oregon 2021: A bit more assertive darker fruits than other efforts, it also has impressive complexity and layers. $57-65 Link to my review• Stags’ Leap Winery The Leap Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown Stags Leap District 2018: Consistent winner from one of Napa’s most hallowed districts by one of Napa’s premier makers. $90-115 Link to my reviewLast roundA little known rule is that all employees of IKEA have to stand in a line in the meeting room before every shift. Some assembly is always required. Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnContinuing our adventure in the world of wine descriptors.• Tannin: Tannins come from grape skins, seeds, and oak barrels. Tannin creates puckery, black tea-like sensations in your mouth that some people hate and others love. Tannic wines do well with fat-rich red meat because tannins cut through the fat coating your tongue, enhancing the beef experience. Tannins also are key components of wine built for aging, as they preserve the wine. Many tannic wines—Italian nebbiolo, for instance—are held in bottle for years before release to allow the tannins to mellow.J. Nathan MatiasAll tannins are not the same. Tannins are mostly characteristic of red wines rather than whites because most tannins come from the skins, stems, and seeds. White wines spend very little time on the skins, stems, and seeds, while red wines can spend many weeks in contact. When tannins are harsh or aggressively drying, they are bad. When they are chewy or rustic, they can be good depending on your palate. When they are silky, integrated, smooth, round, lush, velvety, or supple, they are good, even if the wine writer cannot really tell you difference between round and lush or smooth and silky.Dusty tannins are a special, Janus-faced category. Generally, dusty refers to tannic density. Dusty tannins may provide a pleasing, refined background to fruit. Or they can be a drying, powdery note that steals flavor at the finish. Like many wine descriptors, “dusty” can just be a wine writer throwing adjectives against the wall.• Structure: The balance of tannin, acidity, and alcohol, plus fruit and sugar level constitute a wine’s structure. The combination of those elements determine the overall feel in the mouth and perception of the wine. Wines that lack structure are thin, flabby, disjointed, too tannic or too acidic. It is possible for a wine to have too much structure, usually because it is too tannic and out of balance with acidity and alcohol. Good structure, on the other hand, is a characteristic of high quality wines. Balanced structure allows wine to evolve over time in the bottle and develop more depth and complexity.Tasting notes• Corvo Irmàna Frappato Red Wine 2019: Bright, light, fresh, fruity, delicate. Fun, easy drinker will please those put off by heavier, more tannic/serious red wines. $15-17 Link to my review• Hope Family Wines Treana Sauvignon Blanc, California 2022: Smooth, very approachable; retains food-friendly acidity. $18-20 Link to my review• Project M Anicca Oregon Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills AVA 2022: Nicely structured, elegant with savory core from prime region for quality chardonnay. $40 Link to my reviewLast roundWhy are frogs so happy? They eat whatever bugs them. Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnIn our continuing investigation into the world of wine descriptors, we move to common terms.• Acidity: Key component of wines that “clean the palate” and affect how wine looks, tastes, and ages. The two main acids are tartaric and malic. Hot years/climates reduce acidity. Cold years/climates increase acidity. Acidity preserves freshness and keeps wines lively—very good thing. Too much acidity stomps on fruit flavors and texture—not a good thing. In tasting notes, “good acidity” often means it pairs well with food. Acidity especially is important in white wines and sweet wines.• Ripe: Grapes achieve ideal level of maturity. Less-mature grapes produce lighter wines with less flavor, more acidity; over-mature grapes produce high-alcohol wines with less acidity. Ripe is the desired spot in the middle. Picking at perfect ripeness can be the most significant decision a winemaker makes in the vineyard.• Rustic: Describes hearty, earthy wines. Petite sirah and carignane celebrate being called rustic. Rustic tannins can be coarse and chewy, which your palate may or may not love. On the other hand, if an expensive Burgundy is rustic, that is not a good thing. Wine cannot have silky, sophisticated tannins and be rustic at same time. If you like pleasure with a dollop of danger, rustic is good. If you prefer Maurice Chevalier over Arnold Schwarzenegger, rustic may not be the way to go.• Round: Generally, means wines that have lost youthful, astringent tannins through bottle aging and/or oak aging. Also describes young wines with soft tannins and low acidity. Associated with terms like velvety, creamy, plush, buttery. Generally, a good thing. Unless you lust for rustic.• Soft: Round, fruity, low in acidity, no aggressive tannins, easy to drink, maybe with a hint of sweetness. Often fruit-forward. Round often is associated with merlot and mass market, supermarket wines.• Earthy: Little girl with a curl—when good, very good indeed; when bad, horrid. Good: fresh soil, minerals, vegetation, intense expression of the land. Bad: barnyard after cows finish eating. The chemical compound geosmin—a Greek name that translates as “earth smell”—is thought responsible, but the term is not about dirt, rather complexity and depth. Often is referenced in pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, and syrah.Tasting notes• Charles Krug Peter Mondavi Sr. Family Estate Chardonnay, Carneros, Napa Valley 2021: Popular, versatile mainstay from Krug, a fabled Napa maker. 20-25 Link to my review• Van Duzer Bieze Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley 2021: Refined delight; congenial pleasure on the palate. $65 Link to my reviewLast roundWhy do Native Americans disdain rain dances in April? Because April showers bring Mayflowers. Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnIn our investigation of wine descriptors, we continue our plunge into wine’s weird words.• Petrol/diesel: Associated with riesling. Aroma is not the smell you get filling your farm truck, but does suggest diesel or gasoline. It is caused by good-thing antioxidant TDN (1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene if you are a chemist geek), which forms from beta carotene and lutein as riesling ages. It is a distinctive, distinguishing marker for those identifying riesling in blind tastings. It also blows away after exposure to air.• Burnt rubber: Associated with syrah, also with South African wines. South Africans took umbrage when an English critic used the descriptor. “We prefer that people use the term acrid rather than burnt rubber,” averred a spokesperson for Wines of South Africa. Current descriptor preferred by wineries for this nose note: “sun-dried tomatoes.”• Tar: Associated with nebbiolo (Barolo/Barbaresco) and syrah—means aromas and flavors reminiscent of tar. Who eats or smells tar to find out? Some claim it describes a mix of meat and black pepper. Remember, smell is at least 75% of taste, so the “taste” of tar really is a slight—and slight is key—aroma of tar.• Pencil shavings: Associated with cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot: hints of cedar or eucalyptus wood. Cigar box also associated with this nose nuance. Think of sharpening the #2 in the third grade. It is a mineral smokiness similar to graphite. Engendered either from tannins in the wine or the wine’s exposure to oak during the winemaking process, to put a fine point on it.Tasting notes• Benziger Family Winery Chardonnay 2022: Sonoma chard—lively acidity frames citrus, apple, and stone fruit. $14-16 Link to my review• Monteabellón Tempranillo 5 Meses en Barrica, Ribera del Duero 2020: Easy-going tempranillo effort with refreshing acidity. $14-16 Link to my review• Domäne Wachau Riesling Federspiel Terrassen 2021: Excellent dry riesling from fabled Austrian wine producing area. Very focused with excellent acidity and complexity. $20-25 Link to my review• La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2021: Fresh, clean with attractive layers of quality fruit. Lighter version of California pinot noir style. $27 Link to my review• Masciarelli Marina Cvetić Montepulciano d’Abruzzo S. Martino Rosso Riserva DOC 2019: Good complexity. Nicely evolves in the glass presenting an engaging experience. $29-38 Link to my review• Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2021: Assertive Napa cab that combines some earthiness with elegance. $50-70 Link to my reviewLast roundMy son told my husband he got a part in his school play and he would be playing a man who has been happily married for 25 years. My husband replied: “Maybe next time you’ll get a speaking part.” Wine time.Links to my reviewsGus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnContinuing our investigation of wine descriptors. Last week we noted wine shares the same molecules as familiar, pleasant tastes and smells. But what about all those weird descriptors?Linnaea Mallette• Barnyard/sheep butt: Associated with pinot noir, particularly from Burgundy but also sometimes from elsewhere. Believe it or not, it is an earthy scent often associated with quality—and it goes away with decanting or swirling in your glass. It should not be confused with “barnyard” associated with brettanomyces (brett), a yeast that invades wineries and can spoil wine (more about that later). So, there is good barnyard/sheep butt and bad barnyard/sheep butt. You want wine to be simple and easy?• Farmyard: Associated with aged chianti. Kinder, gentler than “barnyard.” It describes earthy and vegetal undertones some wines develop. Like many such terms, used in admiration or deploration, depending upon the critic and the wine.• Band-Aid: Smell associated with tempranillo and pinotage, usually means there is bit of brett (brettanomyces)—a yeast usually considered a flaw, but also considered a plus by some when it only slightly influences the wine. Different folks, different strokes. It mostly is associated with red wines. In low concentrations, it adds a spicy, leathery note. In higher concentrations, it ruins the wine.• Wet wool/damp straw: Associated with chenin blanc. The aroma resembles lanolin, a fatty substance secreted by a sheep’s skin. The descriptor often occurs alongside mentions of honey, pears, lemon. Chenin blanc may be world’s most versatile grape—capable of almost any style. It is superb in the Loire Valley of France. Want upscale? Ask for “Vouvray,” chenin blanc’s greatest appellation. Swirl, inhale, wistfully comment on its whisper of wet wool wafting amid notes of wild honey and lemons.• Cat pee: Associated with sauvignon blanc, particularly from cooler climate makers in New Zealand and France-Sancere. It arises from natural compounds called pyrazines that give sauv blanc its grassy, herbaceous notes. When weak, sometimes called “lantana bush.” When stronger, “cat pee.” Again, a symbol of quality that will blow away with some air. So don’t meow. Say: “oui, oui, Sancere cat pee is for me.”Tasting notes• Wine By Joe Pinot Noir, Oregon 2021 is wonderfully delicious, affordable Oregon pinot noir. Congenial example of the impressive quality of Oregon pinot noir. $19 Link to my review• Auntsfield Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Southern Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand 2022: Checks all the boxes you want to check on a New Zealand sauv blanc. $17-22 Link to my reviewLast roundWhat do you get if you divide the circumference of a bowl of ice cream by its diameter? Pi a la mode. Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnUsing words to describe wine is fraught with peril and leaves wine writers exposed to ridicule. Adapting a line from Martin Mull: writing about wine is like dancing about architecture. And we do it anyway.Many terms about wine tastes and smells are easy to understand, delicious to imagine.Cherry, strawberry, raspberry, blueberry, plum, peach, pear, apricot, cranberry, lemon, lime, blackberry, watermelon. We know those tastes and more from fruit we eat, and we can perceive them in the wine we drink.Then, there are problematic descriptors. Minerals: like sucking on a rock. Who does that? Leather: do winemakers drop cowhides into their fermentation tanks? Green bell pepper: wait, I thought wine was made from grapes. What are those wine snobs talking about? Are they just making stuff up to appear superior to those of us who just want to sip something to complement a meal, maybe get a little buzz, maybe titillate the libido of a hot date? We visit wines terms in the next six columns.Bradley CooperLet’s start with the easy flavor and aroma notes related to fruits. Grapes are fruits and share the same complex chemistry with fellow fruits. During grape fermentation chemical compounds—esters—are created that are identical or nearly identical to those found in other fruits. When a wine is said to have cherry flavor or aroma, it is just as valid to say that cherry juice has a wine flavor or aroma.Secondary flavors spring from the winemaking process. Oak barrels impart notes from the wood. American oak tends to evoke vanilla and coconut notes, French oak hazelnut and smokiness. All oak can bring oak spice, clove, toast, chocolate depending on how the barrel is made. Oak aging, which allows a slow intake of oxygen, makes wine smoother and less astringent while it adds its flavor and aroma notes.Tertiary flavors develop with aging, in barrel, in stainless steel, in concrete eggs, and in the bottle. Those flavors and aromas include earth, coffee, and leather. In all these cases, the flavors and aromas are caused by the same—or nearly identical—chemical compounds found in the descriptors. As with fruit descriptors, it is just as valid to say this wine has aroma notes of leather as it is to say leather has aroma notes of a wine. The molecules presenting the sensation are the same or almost the same.We will plunge into weird wine terms the next two weeks.Last roundWhy did the cowboy get a wiener dog? Because he wanted to get a long little doggie. Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnGrapes remain the highest value fruit crop in the U.S.—estimated at $7 billion. There are a million acres of grape-bearing land in the U.S.—wine grapes, table grapes, and raisin grapes.The U.S. produces some 900 million gallons of wine, 12 percent of worldwide production. There are some 11,000 wineries in the U.S. located in all 50 states. A note: numbers are imprecise because of vagaries of agricultural reporting and time frames, but are representative. The National Association of American Wineries is the general source for this column.Stan ShebsCalifornia dominates U.S. wine, making 85 percent of domestic wine—685 million gallons. Washington State is second with 36 million gallons. New York is third, 29 million gallons. Those three have long been dominant. The next two states are interesting.Oregon is number four with 11 million gallons, followed by Texas with more than four million gallons. Michigan, North Carolina, Virginia, Illinois, and Pennsylvania round out the top 10, each with two-to-less than three million gallons.Oregon has the second-most wineries in the U.S.—nudging past Washington State (depending on counting date)—but Oregon makes only one-third as much wine as its northern neighbor. Oregon production is centered in the Willamette Valley where world-class pinot noir is made. We often think of the Pacific Northwest as a temperate rain forest. True west of the Cascades, but east of the mountains is high desert—and that is where grapes are grown in both Oregon and Washington State.Texas also grows wine surprises. Its wine industry surges, at least doubling in the past decade. It has the fourth-most wineries in the nation, approaching 400, which closes in on New York State. The economic impact in the state approaches $4 billion, a virtual tie with New York State for second place. California dominates with an economic impact of more than $70 billion.Like Oregon and Washington, the Texas vineyard region defies stereotype. Texas grape growing centers on the High Plains of western Texas. Like Oregon-Washington, this is high, near-desert with elevations of 3,000-4,000 feet. Sandy loam soil and brisk winds discourage pests, mildew and rot. Large diurnal shifts engender ripeness in the day and acidity at night. These are classic characteristics of superior wine vineyards.Bottom line: wine is wonderful accelerant to bonhomie and beloved accoutrement to a meal. It also is a major economic force filled with surprises.Last roundI came home and saw my wife had been on Ebay the whole day. If she’s still there tomorrow, I will have to lower the price. Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnFor Christians, the coming days are a transition from the promise of Christmas to the time of fulfillment of Easter.Jesus’s first reported miracle—the wedding feast at Cana—and his last miracle, at the Last Supper, involved wine. Roman Catholic, Eastern Orthodox, and Greek Orthodox churches include wine in every celebration. Viewed differently theologically, Episcopalians and Lutherans also include wine in their services. Jews use wine in such celebrations as Passover.© Jorge Royan / http://www.royan.com.ar / CC BY-SA3.0So, what is the story? Can you use “just any old wine” on the altar or seder meal? Heavens, no. There are strict canonical rules governing “fruit of the vine and work of human hands.” Let’s explore.According to Roman Catholic canon law, sacramental “wine must be natural, made from grapes of the vine, and not corrupt.” Eastern Orthodox, Greek Orthodox, and Jewish rules are similar.What does “not corrupt” mean? Does adding sulfites to preserve wine constitute corruption? Generally, no—sulfites occur naturally in all wine. What about adding more? Without sulfites, white wines in particular have a shorter shelf life. That is real problem for altar wines often stored for months or longer. Thus, blessed be sulfites.How about adding spirit alcohol to prevent souring or spoilage? Add away as long as the spirit is distilled from grapes (grape brandy), is added during fermentation, and the alcohol level of the final product does not exceed 18 percent. Follow the rules, peace be with you. If congregants drink from a common cup, the risk of transmitting sickness is significantly reduced with fortified wine.General notes:• Sacramental wine is different from consumer wine. Different labeling. Different licensing. Different federal and state taxes. That is why wine shops and liquor stores do not carry the product, and why altar wine is not sold to the general public except in California.The general public can buy wine made to altar wine standards, but those will be labeled and taxed as a general consumer product. Typically, the label on such wine might read something like: “Approved for altar use.”• High alcohol is not required of altar wine. This misconception flows from popularity of Angelica-style wine. Angelica is 18 percent alcohol, the highest permitted by Catholic canon law. Angelica also is popular because it tastes fruity and sweet in small sips.• Sacramental wine production was permitted during Prohibition. Sacramental wine sales increased from two million gallons to three million gallons in first two years of Prohibition. Probably not caused by increased number of communicants at Mass services.Last roundAt home, I am  treated like God. I am ignored until someone wants something. Wine time.Gus Clemens on Wine is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnWhile wine has been an integral part of civilization for at least 8,000 years, it also is subject to the waxes and wanes of fashion. What is rad and fav today can be tomorrow’s meh. Think merlot. Think white zinfandel. Think Milli Vanilli.In the 1990s and 2000s wine enjoyed the intoxicating euphoria of being the next big thing. Wine sales  grew in double digits. Wine replaced beer as the swell’s sip of choice. The Mediterranean diet suggested wine, especially red wine, was good for you, heart healthy, not just part of the good life but part of a longer life. Baby Boomers were all in to the Elysium zeitgeist of wine as the wonder elixir. Oh, those were the days. Those were the daze.Every boom busts. Every bubble bursts. And so with wine in the 2020s. Boomers (59-77+) not only grow older and our consumption declines, we are dying off. That was inevitable, even if we foolishly thought ourselves bullet proof and forever the center of attention.Boomers still dominate the higher end of the wine market. Wine sales may decline, but wine prices are up, creating a sort of balance. We drank Blue Nun, Mateus, and Hearty Burgundy in our salad days. Now, thanks to social security checks and 401Ks, we slurp Jordans and vintage Left Bank Bordeaux. But those days are actuarially numbered—for my fellow Boomers, for wineries.So, what about Gen X (43-58), Millennials (27-42), and Gen Z (21-26)? Gen X, sandwiched between the larger demographics of Boomer and Millennial, appears to have overtaken Boomers in amount and quality of the wine they consume, but that likely is ephemeral. Millennials and Gen Z loom on the time line inevitabilities, and there the wine world worries.Millennials are the largest and wealthiest consumer category after Boomers and their predilections, as fads and fashions are wont to do, stray from their progenitor’s penchants. Spirits have overtaken wine in consumer consumption statistics. Millennials fret about environmental impacts, female and minority participation, sustainability, social justice. It is not just the Robert Parker score—and he no longer is tasting and posting scores, BTW—but it is the whole penumbra around wine making that influences Mellennial’s buying proclivities.And this does not even touch upon the neo-prohibitionists who assert almost any alcohol intake is harmful to health. After heady years of tailwinds, the wine world today is buffeted by headwinds of change. As it has experienced for 8,000 years and counting. Watch this space.Last roundA group of earsplitting toddlers is called a tantrum. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnPorto (port wine) often is mistaken to be a depth-of-winter libation sipped while gazing at a roaring fire, the finale to a robust meal. Porto certainly works in that scenario, but you miss out if you so limit your porto possibilities.Port can be enjoyed any time, including chilled in summer. In fact, tawny port is best appreciated slightly chilled. Ruby port and vintage port are best around 60-64 degrees. More about port designations in a bit.Here are the basics. Port/porto is a sweet, fortified dessert wine made in Portugal and identified by the word “Porto” on the label. The name comes from the city of Porto, the second-largest city in Portugal after Lisbon. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996.Porto, Portugal — Creative Commons 2.0Porto and its sister city, Vila Nova de Gaia, are on opposite banks of the Douro River in western Portugal. Grapes for making porto come down the Douro from vineyards in eastern Portugal. Grape-laden barges arrive in Gaia and go to “lodges,” where porto is made. The wine is made in Gaia, then shipped out of Porto.Some 80 different grape varieties are permitted in porto making. Five are the most common: touriga nancional, touriga francesa, tinta roriz (aka tempranillo), tinta barroca, and tinta cão. Fermentation starts, but when it reaches six-to-nine percent alcohol fermentation is stopped by adding brandy. That brings the final ABV to some 20 percent. Porto is sweet, but tannins and racy acidity balance things out. Then the defining element of porto commences—aging.The aging regimen prescribes categories of porto:• Vintage Porto. Sits atop porto hierarchy. Made from best grapes in quality vintages. Very age worthy—coming into their own in decades rather than years. Oak influence is somewhat muted because they only spend two years in barrel, but then they spend years in bottle before release.• Late-bottled. Wines spend four-to-six years in oak. Oak aging smooths things out, but the wine is less sophisticated—and less expensive—than vintage.• Tawny. Experiences long aging in wood—10 to 40 years. The number of years usually is prominent on the label. Mellow, nutty, woody, dried fruit. Features oak more than quality grapes, although there are many examples that feature both.• Ruby. Entry level porto. Usually ages two-three years in oak. Often blended with older wines to create a consistent house style.Tasting note• Warre’s Vintage Porto 2016: Plush dessert in a glass with alcohol oomph (20%). Elegant, balanced, charming. Sweetness deftly paired with excellent acidity, fine-grained tannins. $100-110 Link to my reviewLast roundHome is where cat hair sticks to everything but the cat. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnMore interesting facts and trivia about wine:• World wine production averages around 6.5 billion gallons a year.• Portugal has the most wine consumption in the world at 13.7 gallons per person per year.• Italy drinks 12.3 gallons, France 12.2, Switzerland 9.4, Austria 7.9, Australia 7.3, Argentina 7.3, Germany 7.3, Sweden 7.1, Netherlands 6.4, Spain 6.3.• Although the U.S. consumes more wine than any other country, we rank 16th in the world in per-person consumption at 3.2 gallons. Russia is next at 2.3 gallons.• Wine is produced in all 50 states in the U.S.• There are four wineries in Alaska. There is very little wine grape production, so wineries mostly import juice for grape-based wine, but they also make wine using Alaska-grown blueberries, strawberries, and rhubarb.• California produces 85% or more of U.S. wine—685 million gallons a year.• Washington State is the second-most U.S. wine producer with 36 million, followed by New York State with 28.5 million, Oregon with 11 million, Texas with 4.3 million, Michigan with 2.8 million, North Carolina with 2.4 million, Virginia with 2.4 million, Illinois with 2.4 million, and Pennsylvania with 2.2 million.• There are 269 American Viticultural Areas (AVA) in 34 states. Augusta, Missouri, was the first, in 1980. The number of AVAs steadily increases, so the count likely is higher since the last survey.• Eighty-five percent of the grapes must be grown in the AVA to include the designation on the label, and the wine must be produced in the AVA.• Ninety-five percent of the grapes must be grown in the same year to include a vintage date on the label.• In 2022, wine’s value to the U.S. economy was estimated to be $275 billion.• The U.S. wine industry employs 1.8-2 million people, with a wage impact of $96 billion.• There are 50 million wine tourists visits in the U.S. each year, and they spend $17 billion.• The U.S. wine industry pays close to $16 billion in federal taxes and $16 billion in state and local taxes each year.Tasting notes:• Herdade do Esporão Monte Velho White, Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal 2021: Balanced, elegant. Excellent alternative to quality chardonnay at half the chard cost. $11-12 Link to my review• Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay, Sonoma County 2021: Rich, round, smooth-creamy, buttery, built to please from initial attack through medium-length finish. $16-20 Link to my review• Three Sticks Origin Durell Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2021: Rich, complex, vibrant from high-quality vineyard. Mouthwatering, fresh. A stunning wine. $70-73 Link to my reviewLast round There is no one quite as clever as someone who has opinions you agree with. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnSome interesting facts and trivia about wine:• The Bible mentions wine 247 times. Forty of those mentions are negative, usually warnings against abuse. There are 145 positive mentions, usually in the context of meals, blessings, and worship. There are 62 neutral mentions, mostly describing situations.• The country of Georgia, at the intersection of Europe and Asia, is the most likely place humans began making wine at least 8,000 years ago. I say humans began making wine, because fruit turns into wine all by itself with no human intervention—which is likely how Georgians got the idea to help Mother Nature along in the first place.• Humans produce wine in 60 countries. Twenty-eight countries produce 85% of the world’s wine.• Half of the world’s wine production comes from four countries: Italy, France, Spain, and the U.S.• Wine grapes grow from 30 to 50 degrees latitude—the temperate zones—in both the northern and southern hemispheres. This also is where most of the world’s food is grown.• There are some 18.2 million acres of vineyards on earth. Of those, 49% are planted in wine grapes, 43% in fresh table grapes, and 8% in raisin grapes.• Grapes are the most important commercially grown fruit in the world.• There are some 10,000 different grapes. Italy has at least 1,368 different wine grapes, France 204, and Portugal 77. Cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay are the most planted.• There are eight different categories of wine: red, white, rosé, orange/amber, sparkling, fortified, ice, and dessert.• The concept of an “appellation” was first mentioned in the Bible, when it references wines from different regions.• Chianti, Italy, created the first formal appellation in 1716. The Côtes du Rhône was the first French appellation, created in 1937.• In 1880, some 80% of the Italian population relied on the wine industry for a living.• It takes 600-800 grapes—equivalent to 2.5-3 pounds—to make a standard 750 ml bottle of wine.• There are 49 million bubbles in a bottle of Champagne.• There are roughly 435 species of oak trees, but only 20 are used to make wine barrels.Tasting notes:• Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Chardonnay, Sonoma County 2021: Impressive complexity; brisk, exciting; engaging tartness, especially from mid-palate through delightfully prolonged finish. $38-40 Link to my review• Black Stallion Estate Winery Transcendent Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2018: Rich, balanced, elegant, integrated, powerful without being overbearing. All you wish—and pay for—in a significant Napa cab. $135 Link to my reviewLast round I went to visit a psychic. I knocked on her door and she replied: “Who is it?”So, I left. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnWine has enjoyed quite a run. Consumption up for decades. Quality up—the best in the 8,000 year history of wine. Availability up, thanks in no small part to elimination of antediluvian restrictions on direct-to-consumer wine sales.Nothing, however, lasts forever. Consumption has leveled off. Quality remains, but now the problem is too much wine. For consumers, nice problem given the old supply and demand equation. For wine makers, a problem, given the old supply and demand equation.Australia estimates it has a surplus of 2.8 billion bottles of wine. Enough for more than 100 bottles for every man, woman, and child in the country. France allocated 200 million euros to distill excess wine into industrial alcohol. Spain and California face similar, if slightly less dire, situations.Reasons are not obscure. During the wine consumption surge, lots of people wanted to jump on the bandwagon. Even if they did not make money off their winery, they coveted the lifestyle. Existing growers and makers did not hesitate to respond to the increased demand.Now, in the autumn of those heady times, actuarial reality. Baby Boomers fueled the boom. Alas, our time is passing. Those still around sip less wine. Those no longer around are sipping in another dimension where corkscrews are not needed.The wine industry prays Millennials and follow-on generations will discover the Elysium joys of fermented grape juice, but that is not certain. Boomers considered themselves bullet proof. Their progeny observed the results of that folly. They simply do not drink as much alcohol as their parents, they may not drink alcohol at all, and—even if they do—there are not as many of them. Boomers are the bolus working its way through the spreadsheet. Most wine drinking countries are in an era of population decline.If you are a Boomer like me, take it all in and continue to enjoy the ride. We’ve got access to the best wine ever made and winemakers desperate to sell it. What happens next? That is a problem for my children and grandchildren to deal with.Tasting notes:• Boschendal The Rose Garden Rosé Wine, South Africa 2022: Soft, juicy, light, enchanting red fruits. Straightforward, easily approachable. $12-15 Link to my review• Barton & Guestier Les Petites Parcelles Vouvray 2021: Delightful iteration of chenin blanc. Touch of sweetness will pleasure many palates; balancing acidity keeps things in check. $15-18 Link to my review• Maison No. 9 Rosé 2020: Light, lilting, red-fruit-tasty Provence rosé. Sensuous, engaging, unique bottle typical of rosés from French Riviera. $19-23 Link to my reviewLast roundA man threw a milk bottle at me today. How dairy. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensLong form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on VocalLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnValentine’s Day, the inspired capitalist fabrication of greeting card makers, florists, and chocolatiers, happens next Wednesday. Here are some notions about wine to titillate your cherished someone.This is something of a sweet and soft day, so shy away from dry, acidic whites. Sauvignon blanc is a splendidly versatile food wine, but anything that sometimes is described as a razor on the tongue is anything but soft and cuddly. Same goes for monster cabs. Brusque masculinity does not play well on Valentine’s day.So, what does play?• Rosé is almost a cliché. A dozen roses and a bottle of Provence rosé—classic. There is a palette of choices to suit your sweetheart’s palate—dry rosés, sweeter rosés, or even a white zinfandel (which is a rosé/blush wine).• Kinder, gentler reds:Lambrusco is among the lightest reds, has a bit of bubbles, and tastes of strawberries and blueberries.Pinot noir is the benchmark light red wine.Gamay is similar to pinot noir, tastes of cherry and banana.Cinsault has meaty, savory elements; show off, and maybe be suggestive, by pronouncing it correctly: “sin-so.”Primitivo/zinfandel—primitivo in Italy, zin in California, same grape. Relatively light wine. Raspberry jam flavors. Often high alcohol for what its worth on Valentine’s.Grenache/garnacha—light body, strawberries, major component of Provence rosés• Sparkling wine. You can go big bucks Champagne, or dial it back with a domestic from California, New York Finger Lakes, west coast in general at half the price of Champagne. Gruet from New Mexico is splendid with a range of styles, most under $20. If you must go cheaper, cava from Spain or prosecco from Italy come into play. Sparkling prosecco has a blush of sweetness and its affordable cost helps offset the cost of the dozen roses.• Sweet wines for your sweetie. If your sugar likes sugar, consider moscato wines—Moscato d’Asti is sparkling. Look for sparkling wines labeled demi-sec. Gewürztraminer, chenin blanc, viognier, riesling all come in sweeter versions (caution, they also are made dry). Ice wines, sauternes, tokaji can be rich and sweet, also expensive. Wines labeled “late harvest” can be counted on to be sweet—winemakers harvest early for dryness, late for concentrated sugar and fruitiness. The best sweet wines are balanced by acidity.Final thought: if you know your darling and her taste in wine, you can never go wrong by pouring what she/he loves.Last round“She tore my valentine into two pieces,” Tom said halfheartedly. “Fortunately, I had not given her the rosé wine yet, so I drank the whole bottle myself.” This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnTerroir is that baffling French term you often encounter with wine. There is another French term that sums up the meaning of terroir—je ne sais quoi [something that cannot be fully described or expressed].In broadest terms, terroir means an entire combination of factors—soil, climate, sunlight, people working the vineyard and the winery, natural yeasts, water, the kitchen sink. That confusing combination of factors makes wine from one place different than wine from another place. Typical wine snob nonsense, right? Well, it turns out hard science has proved there is something to it.In a recent report in the journal Communication Chemistry, Dr. Alex Pouget, a computational neuroscientist and his colleagues at the University of Geneva, decided to test if a computer could pinpoint estates in Bordeaux based only on a particular wine’s chemical makeup determined by gas chromatography, a method for breaking down substances into their molecular components.The scientists trained an algorithm to seek common patterns in the chemical fingerprints from a database of 80 wines of various vintages from seven Bordeaux châteaus. The results shocked the scientists. The model identified wines in distinct groups that nailed their exact locations in Bordeaux. Voila! Terroir!The research showed particular qualities of vineyard locations dramatically influenced the wine’s chemistry. Terroir worked on the molecular level, just as winemakers and wine writers have been noting for centuries. In fact, all the wines tested were part of the 1855 Bordeaux classification system that was based on—wait for it—terroir.The scientists anticipate replicating results elsewhere, given large enough databases and strict controls. Many wines are made from grapes from several different vineyards, so terroir is not a factor, and no winemakers or wine writers claim such. But wine made from grapes from a specific place? That can be specifically identified according to folks with white coats, advanced degrees, and a gas chromatograph.It remains to be tested what, if any, bottle age may affect results. But now, if you believe in science, there is hard, empirical proof that “terroir” is not hoity-toity wine hokum.Tasting notes• Comtesse de Malet Roquefort Bordeaux Rouge 2020: Supple, sauve, soft, juicy, fresh Right Bank mostly merlot. $15-18 Link to my review• Bryn Mawr Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2019: Delicious, delicate—as superb pinot noir should be. Excellent, affordable example of Oregon pinot. $27-32 Link to my review• Dutcher Crossing Proprietor's Reserve Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2018: Smooth, balanced, delicious celebration of dark fruits and zin personality. Significant alcohol. $36 Link to my reviewLast roundDogs prepare you for babies. Cats prepare you for teenagers. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensSince you subscribe to my newsletter, it follows you enjoy wine and humor and are an adventurous, inquisitive person. Each morning, The Sample sends you one article from a random blog or newsletter that matches your interests. When you find one you like, you can subscribe to the writer with one click. Give it a try Link to The Sample This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnYou likely have seen the description “old vine” on a wine label. What exactly does that mean and is it  important?“Old vine” does not have a legal meaning, but generally in the wine world an “old vine” is a vine that is 35 years old. Thirty-five may not seem old, but in the wine world vines are their most productive between age three and 35. After that, vines produce looser clusters with thicker skins. If your goal is quantity, that is not a good thing. It is common practice in many vineyards to replace vines after 35 years.Oldest vine in the worldOld vines, however, trade quantity for quality. Wine growers experience benefits from that tradeoff. Old vines have much deeper root systems, enabling them to survive water shortages. They are more resistant to weather, insect, disease and other stressors.With climate change a major concern throughout the wine world, those qualities of old vines make them increasingly attractive. Thicker skins help buffer the effect of global warming. Deeper roots help in drought. And, with premiumization and the shift toward quality, old vine grapes become more valuable because they often make better wine.The Old Vine Conference is a London-based international organization dedicated to celebrating old vines and building an international database of old vines. It began with efforts by Jancis Robinson, England’s premier wine writer, and has U.S. support from Jackson Family Wines. I recently participated, via Zoom, in their annual conference attended by wine professionals from all over the world and included presentations by wine experts from all over the world. Much of my old vine content in this column derives from the eight hours of that conference and that organization.Some interesting old vine notes:• The oldest producing wine vine in the world is more than 400 years old. It is in Slovenia and was planted against the town wall at the end of the Middle Ages during the Turkish invasions.• The age of the vine’s roots qualify it as old vine. On the Greek island of Santorini, new shoots are grafted when production declines, but they are grafted onto roots that are well more than a century old.• The Lodi, California, AVA is the best-documented and likely has the highest concentration of old vines—mostly zinfandel—in the United States.• Australia, Argentina, Chile, and South Africa have high numbers of documented old vines. Old World vineyards surely have many old vine vineyards, but reporting to the Old Vine Conference lags behind the rest of the world.Last roundHow did Viking ships communicate with each other? Norse code. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensSince you subscribe to my newsletter, it follows you enjoy wine and humor and are an adventurous, inquisitive person. Each morning, The Sample sends you one article from a random blog or newsletter that matches your interests. When you find one you like, you can subscribe to the writer with one click. Give it a try Link to The SampleLinks worth exploringDiary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.Balanced Diet Original recipes, curated links about food systems, recipe reviews. This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnLaura Catena interview Part Five 1-17-2024Dr. Laura Catena, managing director of Bodega Catena Zapata, is considered the face of Argentine wine and a major spokesperson for wine in general.After graduating magna cum laude from Harvard and earning a medical degree from Stanford, she practiced medicine in San Francisco for 25 years while also helping run the family winery, Bodega Catena Zapata. Laura now is in charge of the winery. Here is another excerpt from my interview with Dr. Catena.Dr. Laura Catena, the face of Argentine wine• What is Catena’s position on lighter glass bottles?We have reduced our overall bottle weight by 30% over the last 10 years and we are in the process of reducing by 15-25% our remaining bottles.  We are working with the local manufacturers to reduce weight.  We are lucky in Argentina to have an efficient and well functioning glass-production industry with several manufacturers, which means that 100% of our glass is locally sourced.• What decision gave you the most satisfaction/pride operating Catena?We recently received the #1 World’s Best Vineyard in the world award from World’s Best Vineyards.  I was completely surprised. It is an award given to a winery for a combination of extraordinary wines and original/top level hospitality. I took the scarf (given to me at the award ceremony) and the trophy around the winery and to the vineyards and took photos with all the staff at Catena. I am also going on a tour to visit customers and take the photo with them, because they are part of our success. It made me very happy to be able to celebrate with all the people who work so hard every day and should be recognized for their efforts. It was also very satisfying when we got our first 100 point rating for Adrianna Vineyard River Stones Malbec. It was a milestone in my father’s vision to make Argentine wines that could stand with the best of the world. I’ve written three books about wine and each time I had a lot of doubt about it because of how time consuming it is to write a book (especially when I had my two jobs, wine and medicine, and a young family). But I learned so much while writing each book, and each book became a powerful tool to tell the stories behind Argentine wine, especially the last book Malbec Mon Amour, which was a bestseller in Argentina and got a wonderful review from the New York Times.Last roundWhat do you get if you cross a lion with a watchdog? A terrified postman. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensSince you subscribe to my newsletter, it follows you enjoy wine and humor and are an adventurous, inquisitive person. Each morning, The Sample sends you one article from a random blog or newsletter that matches your interests. When you find one you like, you can subscribe to the writer with one click. Give it a try Link to The Sample This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnCalifornia’s Goldilocks vintage 1-10-2024It is a new year and time for some good news.Recent history has not been kind for wine. Demand, after decades of euphoric gains, has been flat. Mother Nature has not been kind to several regions with drought, hail, spring freezes, fires, bugs. All the usual suspects.California, however, enjoyed a Goldilocks year in 2023. And we should enjoy the results for years to come. Let us rejoice and be glad in it.California’s 2023 grape harvest abounds in quality and quantity. “One for the ages,” several winemakers ventured. Quality paired with quantity is wonderful news, even if it may not be unequivocally wonderful for winemakers.California quantity puts downward pressure on grape prices. Joyously, quantity did not happen because more vines were planted. In fact, growers have dialed back in recent years. Quantity happened because this was a year when everything came together. Water early and a long, steady, cool summer meant grape vines produced bunches larger and heavier than expected. Good harvest weather.With demand relatively flat and quality grape supply up, the juice going into $15-30 wine will be better than ever before. Hallelujah. You will not have to be a trust-fund baby to enjoy this. The west coast joy juxtaposes with a global harvest that is almost 10 percent smaller than 2022, and almost eight percent smaller than the average of the past 10 years.Wine is an agricultural product. Every farmer knows to savor good years and survive bad years. After years of fires and drought, California in 2023 enjoyed the immense blessings God and his handmaiden Mother Nature can bestow.Karen MacNeil, author of The Wine Bible noted: “Every century, every place has its legendary vintages. I have no doubt that 2023 will go down as one of the most phenomenal vintages ever in Napa Valley. Every vintner I’ve talk to about 2023 has been nothing short of ecstatic.”Adjectives about 2023 in Napa and the west coast in general: elegant, lush, generous, consistent, delicious, dynamic, balanced, graceful, complex, fresh, age-worthy, silky, voluptuous, miraculous. We will discover in the coming years if this effusive enthusiasm is justified, but for now, after Covid and wildfires and drought and bugs, we are due for the wondrous magic wine can provide.Meghan Zobeck, winemaker at Burgess Cellars, told MacNeil: “I’m not sure there will be another vintage quite like this in our lifetime.”Something wine lovers can look forward to. Thank God.Last roundI’ve always thought a murder mystery in a textile factory would make a good yarn, Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensSince you subscribe to my newsletter, it follows you enjoy wine and humor and are an adventurous, inquisitive person. Each morning, The Sample sends you one article from a random blog or newsletter that matches your interests. When you find one you like, you can subscribe to the writer with one click. Give it a try Link to The Sample This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe

This is the weekly columnMeteorological seasons 1-3-2024It is early January. Barely into winter. Except it isn’t barely into winter if you reckon by the more rational system of “meteorological seasons.” By that measure, we are one-third-plus finished with winter. Huh?Meteorological seasons are more logical and easier to work with than the longest day, shortest day, equal day kludge inflicted upon us years ago by astrologers. Astrologers? In the 21st century?There is the simple meteorological system: winter starts December 1, spring March 1, summer June 1, fall September 1. If you are like me, when you learn how seasons are measured by meteorologists, the people you count on for weather predictions so you can plan your day, plan your planting, plan your grape harvest, you thought: “My, goodness, that makes perfect sense.”Earth tilts toward the sun. In the traditional system its annual orbit determines the seasons, although seasons are wholly a human construction. Using the old system, this winter began on December 21, the winter solstice, the shortest day and longest night of the year.But Earth’s orbit it not a perfect circle. That means astronomical seasons do not start on the same day each year. Using the astronomical system, seasons vary between 89 and 93 days. Messy, and not reflective of what we actually experience. In the vineyard. In our everyday lives.Meteorologist use the December-March-June-September formula because it makes record keeping easier. When they compare seasons, they do not have to factor in yearly variables. Did autumn start at 3:30 a.m. Tuesday, or 7:30 p.m., or 12:09 a.m. on Wednesday?Meteorological seasons track with our human experience. We have just begun astrological winter, but the weather has been cooler for more than month. December, January, and February are the coolest months. It gets colder before Christmas (winter solstice 2023 was December 21 at 9:27 p.m. CST). And spring likely will be perceived earlier than March 19 at 10:06 p.m. in 2024.Isn’t it just cleaner and easier to divide the seasons into four easy-to-identify segments?I know a wine columnist is not going to change the world of season delineations, but I do want to ally myself with the much more rational and easy to understand system of meteorologists. After all, we depend on meteorologists to tell us how hot and cold it will be tomorrow and when the hurricane will force us to flee for our lives. How about giving them a say on winter, spring, summer, and fall?Last roundWhy don’t ants freeze in the winter? Because they have ANTi-freeze. Wine time.Email: [email protected]: gusclemens.substack.comWebsite:  gusclemensonwine.comFacebook:  facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/Twitter (X): @gusclemensSince you subscribe to my newsletter, it follows you enjoy wine and humor and are an adventurous, inquisitive person. Each morning, The Sample sends you one article from a random blog or newsletter that matches your interests. When you find one you like, you can subscribe to the writer with one click. Give it a try Link to The Sample This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe