Paperback Perfumes
Arts
Clare Presser
Welcome to Paperback Perfumes! The host Clare Presser is a Librarian with a fascination for fragrances and their capacity to evokes memories and experiences through the activation of the olfactory system. In this podcast she chats with guests about their connections with scents and stories through the pairing of perfumes and literary texts. Think of it as reader’s advisory for fragrance lovers, or fragrance recommendation for bibilophiles - whichever experience is your first priority. It’s fun exercise that allows a lovely discussion around people’s personal interpretation of experience, scent, and story Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Total 32 episodes
1
Acquisition & Possession
The landscape of fragrance easily can fall into the realm of collection, be it materials or the search for the ultimate scent. But what if this process becomes something a little bit darker… This is the last of the special spooky season series, as well as the final episode for season 1. It has been a true pleasure to talk to such a wide variety of guests, and this week's guest is no exception. Nadia Vitlin is a perfumer who specializes in bespoke creations, scent visual art, and offers training for those interested in expanding their own knowledge. Nadia has spent ten years learning and developing her craft, and it was a delight to discuss a book that explores the grotesque aspects of material acquisition and the obsession that can come with possessing a scent. Taking a concept and extending it beyond the realms of polite or sensible society can truly illustrate the edges of humanity and where the boundaries of good moral judgment lie. Can a scent or an aroma make us cross that boundary into madness? It's something to ponder as we approach Halloween, a time when boundaries notoriously blur.Fragrances mentioned: Fougère Royale - Houbigant ParfumJicky - GuerlainFleurs D'oranger - Serge Lutens Sécrétions Magnifiques - Etat Libre d'OrangeJasmin et Cigarette - Etat Libre d'Orange Eau d'Hadrien - Annick GoutalBooks mentioned: Perfume: The Story of A Murderer - Patrick SüskindThe Foul and the Fragrant: Odor and the French Social Imagination - Alain Corbin Find Vistley on Instagram or on their website www.vitsley.comTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:12:1429/10/2024
Part 2: Meaning & Mystery
If you were to sum up the theme for episode four of the spooky season series, it would be this: Life can get pretty dark if you can’t take a joke…Let’s catch up with the second part of the red string, photo board and many drawing pins that is pulling together two more text and a few more fragrances with Nuri McBride Nuri is not just a perfumer; she is also a dedicated community educator and an insightful writer who regularly explores the rich intersection of olfaction and death rituals throughout history. In this episode we get a little medieval and discover the importance of humour, as well as bringing light to dark places and unknowable situations. In keeping with tradition, our conversation has been so rich and layered that I have had to divide it up over several episodes for your enjoyment. Please do listen to Part 1 first, otherwise this conversation may not make as much sense as you would hope. Fragrances mentioned:Acqua Della Regina- Santa Maria Novella Dirty Velvet- Vilhelm Parfumerie Books mentioned: The Name of the Rose - Umberto EcoA Natural History of Hell - Jeffery Ford Find Nuri McBride on Instagram or on their website.The Alabastron Journal can be find at alabastronjournal.comTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
50:0022/10/2024
Part 1: Death & Rituals
Onwards to episode three of the spooky season series where we talk about Death, rituals, the creation of meaning and mystery. Now with a dash of necromancy…How can one truly discuss the intricate topics of fragrance, death, and rituals without the invaluable insights of Nuri McBride? It seems only fitting that we take this opportunity to ‘resurrect’ a former guest who has made significant contributions to the conversation. Nuri is not just a perfumer; she is also a dedicated community educator and an insightful writer who regularly explores the rich intersection of olfaction and death rituals throughout history. I am genuinely pleased to welcome her back to the podcast for another of our winding book club and fragrant pairings. In keeping with tradition, our conversation has been so rich and layered that I have had to divide it up over several episodes for your enjoyment. So, please sit back and immerse yourself in this deep dive into the fascinating realms of necromancy and world building in part one of our series.Fragrances mentioned:Lady Vengeance - Juliette Has A Gun De Profundis - Serge Lutens After Every Ounce of Joy (Leaves My Body) - Chris Rusak Macbeth - Shakespeare Perfumes Books mentioned: Gideon the Ninth - Tamsyn Muir Harrow the Ninth - Tamsyn Muir Heavenly Bodies: Cult Treasures & Spectacular Saints from the Catacombs - Paul KoudounarisThe Foul and the Fragrant - Alain Corbin Find Nuri McBride on Instagram or on their website.The Alabastron Journal can be find at alabastronjournal.comTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:04:3215/10/2024
Must Love Cats and Darkness
In this second instalment of our Spooky Season series, we explore the theme of horror through anxiety—the unsettling sensation that something catastrophic lurks just beyond our perception. Anxiety manifests in many forms, often creeping into our thoughts like a shadow in the dark. It amplifies our worries, transforming mundane situations into catastrophic scenarios. The potential for things to go horribly wrong becomes a breeding ground for horror, as our imagination runs wild with the possibilities: a simple drive turns into a nightmare, a casual conversation spirals into conflict, and unexpected events become the start of a downward spiral.In this episode, I am speaking with Sarah, who is also known by her pen name S. Elizabeth. She is a talented writer and the author of three wild and wonderfully imaginative art books. In addition to her writing, she maintains a consistent blog and has a passion for savouring fragrances, particularly during the witching hour. Fragrances mentioned:Dark Season - Neil Morris Tea Rose - Perfumers WorkshopGreen Spell - Eris ParfumCoven - Andrea MaackCoriandre - Jean CouturierNuit de Bakerlite - Naomi Goodsir Series 3: Incense - Kyoto - Comme des GarconsVerveine d'Été - Le Jardin RetrouveBooks mentioned: They Call Me Naughty Lola: Personal Ads from the London Review of Books - David Rose Incidents Around the House - Josh Malerman Thornhedge - T Kingfisher Rebecca - Daphne de Maurier Find S.Elizabeth on Instagram @ghoulnextdoor or follow the wide and varied links of books, blogs and all manner of other fun things on her linktr.eeTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:16:1808/10/2024
Haunted
In the first of our Spooky Season series - we talk about how we can ‘defang’ death, the loneliness of grief and different cultural perspectives on ritual those no longer with us.In this episode, we discuss Louise’s first book, Hungry Bones, which explores profound themes of loneliness and connection. We discuss how cultural perspectives on death shape our understanding and acceptance of it, and how open conversations can demystify and reduce the fear surrounding death.Louise shares insights on how fragrance can evoke powerful memories and emotions tied to personal experiences, and the significant role scent plays in rituals and cultural practices surrounding death. We explore how young adult literature, like This Poison Heart, addresses complex themes in accessible ways, with characters that are nuanced and relatable, reflecting real-life struggles - whilst emphasizes the importance of representation in literature, showcasing joy alongside struggle.Join us as we highlight the interconnectedness of scent, memory, and identity, and the importance of open, honest discussions about death and representation in literature.Fragrances mentioned:Pikake Essential OilWhite Flower Oil Aromatics Elixir - CliniqueVive La Fleur - Flaner Fragrances Books mentioned: Hungry Bones - Louise HungThis Poison Heart - Kalynn Bayron Find Louise Hung on Instagram @louisehung1 or purchase a copy of ‘Hungry Bones’ from Scholastic (you can find it in larger book providers, but make good choices) Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:00:0001/10/2024
The Nature Of Animals
Our companions are not always human. The meaningful and grounding connections that we make can easily be with an animal or a tree…In this episode, we explore the intrinsic bond between humanity and companionship, emphasizing the profound impact that our beloved animal companions on our lives. Liz Moores, a self-taught perfumer and the creative force behind Papillion Perfumery, shares her insights on how these relationships with creatures and nature that inspire her craft. Liz captures the essence of cherished moments in her fragrances, each one a tribute to the memories - the scents serve as olfactory reminders of the joy and warmth that these relationships bring. Also discussed is the importance of connecting with nature and how best to express the change of seasons through scent.Fragrances mentioned:Anubis - PapillionEpona - PapillionDryad - PapillionBooks mentioned:Whispers Under Ground - Ben Aaronovitch The Belgariad (series) - David Eddings Orphia and Eurydicius - Elyse JohnFind Papillion Perfumery on Instagram @papillonartisanperfumes or on their website papillonperfumery.co.ukTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
47:5023/09/2024
Inheritance
Are the stories about our culture and community what we make or what are given to us? Örök Fragrances is a freshly launched fragrance house that passionately focuses on the rich stories and unique experiences of the queer community, all intricately told through the captivating medium of scent. In this episode, I have the pleasure of speaking with John, the visionary founder of the new Melbourne-based brand, Örök Fragrances. These thoughtfully crafted fragrances range from the delightfully weird and otherworldly to the cleverly playful and cheeky. Each scent invites wearers to explore their identity and celebrate their individuality.Fragrances mentioned:5am - Örök Fragrances Vapor Bloom -Örök Fragrances Undergrowth - Örök Fragrances Shoreline - Örök Fragrances Rave - Örök Fragrances Lavs - Filippo SorcinelliYakisugi Wood - Flaner FragranceBooks mentioned: The Genesis of Misery - Neon YangBeasts and Beauty: Dangerous Tales - Soman Chainani Out of the Blue - Jason June Wicked and Divine: Fandemonium - Gillian McKelvie and Wilson CowlesThe Colour Of Magic - Terry Pratchett Find Örök Fragrances on Instagram @orokfragrances or on their website orokfragrances.auTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:06:3517/09/2024
Joy
Joy is both a Noun and a Verb. It is a radical act in the face of shame and derision. You cannot have the light without the dark. Joy ultimately is a doing word. I had not been exploring the world of fragrance long before I heard about Olfiction and Boujee Bougies (I may or may not have paid closer attention because of the clever play on words). One half of this astounding word-smithery is creative director Nick Gilbert. Nick has done the hard yards behind a perfume counter and has worn many hats from fragrance trainer, evaluator, fragrance writer to marketer and consultant. He is also a real joy to talk to and we cover pride, shame, power dynamics and control, as well as that Cassis can be both wonderful note and smell like cat piss. The world is not so much either/or, but more and/and. Fragrances mentioned:Invisible Touch - La Perla Quir - Boujee Bougies Guilded - Boujee Bougies Cardinal - HeeleyArmani Prive Bois d'Encens - Giorgio Armani Books mentioned: Tom of Finland: The Official Life and Work of a Gay Hero - F. Valentine Hooven IIIA Master of Djinn - P. Djèlí ClarkFind Olfiction on Instagram @olfictionlimited or on their website olfiction.comFind Boujee Bougies on Instagram @bougieboujees or on their website boujeebougies.comFind Nick on Instagram @nickrgilbertTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:12:3610/09/2024
Political Intrigue
Political machinations are always interesting and show much safer when you are in the cheap seats of being a reader. Keeping your head above water in a historical context may just be about keeping it on your neckYou have to be a little bit brave to start out as a fragrance reviewer in the world of social media these days. Charlotte has recently started reviewing scents and sewing as a side hustle to expand her collection. Charlotte like to deep dive into the history of fragrances as well as offer reviews of scents that she loves. She is a fan of a skin scent, so there are a few fragrances in her collection that are not the usual names that I would reach for. In the episode we discuss her love of the Tudors, big books and how sometimes audiobooks need a really good narrator. Fragrances mentioned:Citrus - Olfactive O Bainin - Cloon KeenCarnal Flower - Frederic Malle Interlude Black Iris Man - Amouage Radical Rose - Matiere Premiere Hayat - XerjoffScorpio Rising - Eris ParfumsWonderwood - Comme Des Garcon Copper - Comme Des Garcon Books mentioned: Wolf Hall - Hilary MantelCity of Brass - S.A. ChakrabortyFind Charlotte on Instagram @scentsofdirection Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
51:3703/09/2024
Nightclubs and Mercenaries
When was the last time you thought about how public spaces smell? Or what scent palate you are culturally comfortable with? What is the scent of work and of play? Jayanthan (Jay) Sriram is a PhD student at Concordia University in Montreal and a member of the German Academic Scholarship Foundation. He is in the Interdisciplinary Humanities PhD Program and coordinates the Exploration in Sensory Design research team. His research aims to highlight the importance of smell in aesthetics through functional scenting and perfumery. His PhD project, “The Life of the Ephemeral – Building Olfactory Aesthetics,” critiques the common disregard for physical and olfactory values, focusing on the perspectives of those who create and curate these experiences. Jay also has a music blog and an interest in reading Manga, which is reflected in the book choices for this episode. Fragrances mentioned:Dior Homme - Christian Dior Fourreau Noir - Serge LutensTerroni - Orto ParisiMoth - ZoologistBooks mentioned: The Haçienda: How Not to Run a Club - Peter HookBerserk (Deluxe Volume 1) - Kentaro MiuraMusic accompaniment: Jay has recommended some follow on listening for the books mentioned For The Hacienda - Querido by DJ Anderson do ParaisoFor Berserk, Umbilical by Thou The former pretty much as an extension of where club culture can go and where it might have never been reliant on one narrative as this is Bruxia from Brasil and the latter as a great aural experience to complement the heft of Berserk.Read Jay’s research on Researchgate. You can also Find Jay on Instagram and explore his music blog. Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:33:4027/08/2024
Transitions
Sometimes you need to pivot to find your joy. Sometimes you have to lose something important in order to gain so much more. However, change is always a certainty. Liminus owner and perfumer, Hilary, is creating natural perfumes involves using sustainable practices, sourcing local materials, and capturing the essence of a place. Liminal spaces, both physical and metaphorical, play a significant role in personal growth and transformation. Scent has the power to evoke memories and enhance experiences, making it a valuable in assisting in this process of change. During my conversation with Hilary, we focus on the benefits of small batch making, exploring botanicals that are yet to ‘make it big’ in the world of perfumery, as well as text that connect us to our our country and landscapes. Fragrances mentioned:Alba - Liminus Thamnic - Liminus Hwyl - AseopWash Me In the Water - 4160 TuesdaysBooks mentioned: Selected Poems - Gwen Harwood The Heartbeat of Trees: Embracing Our Ancient Bond with Forests and Nature - Peter WohllebenThe Rain Heron - Robbie ArnottCheck out Liminus’ website at www.liminus.com.auTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
52:1620/08/2024
Artistic Aliens
Life is journey - you made find yourself on a bus in the middle of nowhere, or wind up making perfume.Corey Newcombe is perfumer and owner of Australian artisanal fragrance house, Criminal Elements. The brand has bee making fragrance for around 10 years and we discuss how Criminal Elements came about, the training of your nose, what it takes to run a small business, being in community not competition and what it’s like to make a fragrance from a dream you had that one time… Fragrances mentioned:Wicked Mistress - Criminal Elements Neon - Criminal ElementsVerge - Criminal Elements Tobacco Jam - Criminal Elements Books mentioned: Space Opera - Catherynne M. ValenteThe Unlikely Pilgrimage Of Harold Fry - Rachel Joyce The Doll Factory - Elizabeth MacnealCheck Criminal Elements full website at criminalelements.netTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
58:0313/08/2024
Beetles and Bants
And just because alliteration is a beautiful thing- please also add Broadswords into the mix. Choose your weapon wisely. Fliss Walton is one quarter of the UK based fragrance podcast ‘Les Oderants’ - emphasis on the work ‘rant’. Fliss has work as a professional actor, as a facilitator and has, by all accounts, an extensive perfume collection. She may also be a self proclaimed lover of a ‘pretty bottle’, but we do our best to remain focussed on the juice. In this conversation we deep dive into the work of a few perfumers, discuss the role of scent as communication, a tool for getting into character and the very different types of death that medieval weaponry can achieve. Fragrances mentioned:Baccarat Rouge 540 - Maison Francis KurkdjianAndalusian Soul - Merchant of VeniceTweed - LenthericAzuree - Estée LauderDiorling - DiorAromatics Elixir - CliniqueAndrea Maack - Coven Maja - MyrurgiaNoir De Noir - Tom Ford Obsession Night - Calvin Klein Trésor - LancômeFeminite du Bois - ShiseidoRose - Mercedes BenzSara Baker - Jungle Jezebel Giorgio - Giorgio Beverly HillsVerdant - Boujee BougiesDelta of Venus - Eris ParfumBelle De Jour - Eris Parfum Mxxx - Eris ParfumBooks mentioned: Miss Benson’s Beetle - Rachel JoyceScent and Subversion: Decoding A Century Of Provocative Perfume - Barbara Herman Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:05:5906/08/2024
Pink
When the world’s of DIY, identity and fragrance come together in a lovely mixtape of experiences Diffractive Studio is an independent fragrance house in Newcastle, UK. Owner and perfumer Alessandra started out as an academic, but branched out into the fragrance space creating fragrant art installations, as well as commercial product. Recently Alessandra had an article, “Beyond the Scent of Blood and Gardenias” published in the fragrance journal, Alabastron. This first issue of the journal focussed on the ‘Scent of Identity’ and Alessandra’s piece focused on the queer experience of an olfactory identity (a new term that I will be using at any given moment from now on).If you love a good love story, if you like powerful women, if you like mixtapes and you are not afraid of pink, then this episode is for you.Fragrances mentioned:So Cute - Diffractive Studio Coven - Andrea MaackMusc Ravageur - Editions De Parfums Frederic MalleBoth Sides of Clouds - 4160 Tuesdays Dolce Treviso - Acca KappaVaniglia Fior di Mandorlo - Acca KappaFracas - Robert PiguetYuzu Soda - Strangers ParfumerieSo Fetch - Strangers ParfumerieQH - RedolescentLuna Dust - Mabelle O’RamaPink Sugar - AuqolinaZucchero a Velo - Aquolina Bowmakers - D.S & DurgaPop Culture - Diffractive StudioBooks mentioned:The Cyborg Manifesto - Donna HarawaySoft Science - Franny ChoiLight from Uncommon Stars - Ryka AokiOne Last Stop - Casey McQuiston Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:08:0930/07/2024
Hinged
How about a take two, where staying on track came a little more easily - and that’s healing. As we had barely touched on any of the extensive Filigree & Shadow’s range of fragrances, this week is a return conversation with James Elliott from Filigree & Shadow. This time. staying on track came a little more easily and we touch on community, dug a little deeper into the DIY punk ethos and breeze past self diagnosis.Filigree & Shadow is an artisanal perfume house based in Seattle, Washington State, where each fragrance has a personal story, as well as possible origin based around music. The brand ships internationally and is water based (for all or sensitive skin souls), so if you are able to whittle down you selection to 7 scents, it’s really worthwhile picking up a discovery set.Fragrances mentioned:Notget - Filigree & ShadowBlume - Filigree & ShadowRema - Filigree & Shadow Surfer Rosa - Filigree & Shadow.Anonymity - Filigree & Shadow Books mentioned: The Tao of Pooh and the Te of Piglet - Benjamin HoffOn the Road - Jack KerouacAdrienne RichOlga BroumasSuheri HammadInga MuscioLarry KramerHow to Be Idle - Tom Hodgkinson You can find out more about Filigree & Shadow via the website - they are also on Instagram and TikTok The image of James Elliott is AI generated and stunning Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:12:0923/07/2024
Unhinged
When the guest warns you that they are unlikely to stay on topic, you should probably listen… Sometimes there are people that you really want to interview just because they seem like the type of person incredibly good conversation would happen with - James Elliott from Filigree & Shadow is absolutely one of these people. Filigree & Shadow is an artisanal perfume house based in Seattle, Washington State. James has seamlessly blended a DIY political punk ethos into the world in a way that makes you surprised that it is not standard. From fundraisers with fellow perfumers to raising awareness of other small businesses, James seems to take any idea and just runs with it. This episode is called Unhinged because James warned me about how things were going to go before I hit record, and the conversation really got away from the both of us. Fragrances mentioned:My Most Meaningful Relationships - Filigree & Shadow Eau Savage - Christian Dior Notget - Filigree & ShadowBlume - Filigree & Shadow Books mentioned: Anne Rice Poppy Z. Brite Clive Barker Carrie - Stephen KingRequiem for a Dream - Hubert Shelby Jr. The Tao of Pooh and the Te of Piglet - Benjamin HoffYou can find out more about Filigree & Shadow via the website - they are also on Instagram and TikTok - I thoroughly recommend following (if you are not already). Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
42:4316/07/2024
Actualisation
When making your way in life - what does it look like to be brave and go with your heart? Map of the Heart is an Australian fragrance brand founded by Sarah Blair. The brand was started by Sarah and Jeffrey Darling, who were both working in film and became fascinated with fragrance. The fragrances are known for their unique bottle designs and the scents are crafted with a focus on authenticity and emotion. The conversation also touches on themes of body image, racism, and the power dynamics within relationships. However, because there is light to travel alongside the dark, there is also community, making connections, offering care and living into the people and the places that bring you joy. Fragrances mentioned:V.5 ValourV.6 EcstasyV.2 DarknessV.4 PeaceV.1 Freedom V.3 Passion V.8 Abundance(Map of the Heart) Books mentioned: Butter: A Novel of Food and Murder - Asako YuzukiHeart of Darkness - Joseph Conrad Eclogues- Virgil We Come With This Place - Debra Danks You can find out more about Map of the Heart on their website, or on Instagram. NAIDOC stands for National Aborigines and Islanders Day Observance Committee. If you would like to know more about NAIDOC week, which is is an opportunity for all Australians to learn about First Nations cultures and histories you can find out more on the committee’s official website. Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:27:2509/07/2024
Defying Expectations
Marching to the beat of your own drum is so much harder when other have expectations about what you do and how you do it. It’s time to flip everything on it’s head… In this episode I am talking with Justine Hanna, Operations Manager at the Geelong Regional Libraries Corporation. In multiple episodes I have mentioned that other Librarians maybe stronger in the realms of Reader’s Advisory than myself, so we are putting this theory to the test!Justine has paired books with all manner of food and beverages, both for in person events and via her own podcast, Literary Elixirs. I was in the unusual position of selecting fragrances and we came up with some something a little unusual, as we discuss how to step outside of people expectations and living more into yourself. Fragrances mentioned:Play-Doh - Demeter Fragrance Library Justine - Louis Feraud Tezza’s Tea Party - Zimmer Escentric 04 - Escentric MoleculesBooks mentioned: Memoirs of an Imaginary Friend - Matthew Dicks Legends and Lattes - Travis BaldreeNotorious Sorcerer - Davinia Evans If you would like to listen to more pairings by Justine - can check out Literary Elixirs on SpotifyTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:11:3202/07/2024
Emotions and Spaces
When it’s more about how things make you feel than performing a function that meet societal expectations? What is the importance and impact of giving space for a fully realised artistic experience? Australian perfume brand Metascent is reaching out into the fragrance community in a variety of different ways. From creating their own compounds, allowing people to explore making their own perfume, bring scent into art to create a fully immerse experience and taking the Australian fragrance profile into an international context, it’s hard to think of what else they still have left to explore and achieve. In talking with Janelle Donnelly, CEO of Metascent, seeing the way they are thinking about fragrance beyond something that is purely commercial but is also exploratory, make for some really fun pairings. From Australian Historical Fiction to Non fiction books on the language of Cults - we cover a lot of ground. Fragrances mentioned:Origin - Aqualis LondonCarmelia - Metascent Gaslight - Metascent Adrenaline - Metascent Love Affair - Metascent Books mentioned: The Story Thief - Kyra Geddes Cultish: The Language of Fanaticism - Amanda MontellShe Who Became The Sun - Shelley Parker-ChanThe Little Prince - Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, Richard Howard (Translator)Find more about Metsacent their website: https://metascent.com/The artworks discussed can be found on their Instagram @metascentTheme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:05:4725/06/2024
Mentoring
How can we bring out the inherent and intrinsic qualities of each other. What Spaces can we make to come together and offer support to elevate from the mundane? This episode we are doing something a little bit different. The guest is Guy Vincent - CEO of Dutjahn Sandalwood Oils, an Western Australian supplier of Santalum spicatum. Dutjahn are a 50% traditionally owned company that sustainably farm Sandalwood for international distribution. Guy is a self proclaim ‘Aussie scrapper’ in the world of fine fragrance and has previously work for the Estée Lauder company as head perfumer for the Aveda brand.As this material is sacred to the indigenous communities, we decided to discussion how Sandalwood performs as a character in the narrative of fragrance - how it can elevate the other materials in a composition,Fragrances mentioned:Shalimar - Guerlain Santal 33 - Le LaboPortrait of a Lady - Frederic Malle (Dominique Ropion)D’Orange Vert - HermesBooks mentioned:Assassin Apprentice - Robin HobbBatman: Earth One - Geoff Johns, Gary Frank (Illustrator)The Lightning Thief (Percy Jackson and the Olympians #1) - Rick RiordanOut of Sight - Elmore Leonard (and here is the movie trailer in case you need to remember the film)Find more about Dutjhan Sandalwood Oils On their website: https://www.dutjahn.com/Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:13:0218/06/2024
Secundus: Grief, Love and Longing
Sometimes it takes two episodes to get to the heart of a topic. Sometimes people just really enjoy literary critique and fragrant tangents This is part two of what started off as a simple idea that unfurled into a three hour long discussion of scent, grief, love longing - all woven into the discussion of Annihilation. The guest is the wonderful Nuri Mc Bride who explores the intersection of olfaction and death rituals at the Death/Scent project, as well as being co-editor of the community-focus scent culture journal Alabastron, the first edition of which is now available if you would like to find yourself a copy. If you have not has a listen to Part 1, I really recommend listen to that first before embarking on this episode. Fragrances mentioned:Orris Tattoo - Parle Moi ParfumKoala - ZoologistSquid - Zoologist Bat - Zoologist Gypsy water - ByredoBooks mentioned: Seven Skins of Esther Wilding - Holly Ringland100 Love Sonnets (Cien Sonetos de Amor) - Pablo Neruda (Poem: XVII - I do not love you)Find Nuri McBride on Instagram or on their website.Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
54:3111/06/2024
Primer: Grief, Love and Longing
The topic of grief is huge. As is love. Intertwining both is a sense of longing. Tackling these topics requires many experiences and expressions of self exploration.There is no one that I would like to embark on this topic more than Nuri McBride - perfumer, community educator, and writer. Nuri explores the intersection of olfaction and death rituals at the Death/Scent project, writes about fragrance history in her monthly newsletter, Aromatica de Profundis. As well as being co-editor of the community-focus scent culture journal Alabastron, the first edition of which is now available if you would like to find yourself a copy. Nuri was also program curator for the Scent & Society lecture series at the Institute for Art and Olfaction. This is part 1 of a long and winding conversation that covers what it’s like to be a perfumer, some of the trials and tribulations of the industry, as well as the important role that scent can play in rituals that help us process emotions around loss and longingFragrances mentioned:Kouros - Yves Saint LaurentAttendre & Espérer - P.Frapin & Cie Fig Porn - Born to Stand OutSteamed Rainbow - DS & Durga Books mentioned:The Foul and the Fragrant - Alain CorbinCarmilla - Joseph Sheridan Le FanuAnnihilation - Jeff VanderMeerThe Ballad of Black Tom - Victor LaValleFind Nuri McBride on Instagram or on their website.Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:32:2604/06/2024
Intimacies
Sometimes the act of placing a perfume affords a little moment of intimacy with one’s self and celebration of memories.In talking with Sondrine Kehoe, perfumer and founder of the independent artisanal fragrance house Cygnet Perfumery, the Podcast explores intimacies - how they can enrich one’s life, how a celebration of these moments can take many forms and what it can look like when we miss the mark for these moments of connection. Through out the podcast we discuss and pair with Cygnet’s heirloom collection and Sondrine’s experiences that went into creating these scents. Cygnet perfumery is based on the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Australia.Fragrances mentioned:Forrest Essentials - Cologne Intense: Madurai Jasmine AntiquarianPrimaveralConiferNocturneVigneronPlein Air Youth Dew - Etsee LauderBooks mentioned: People of the Book - Geraldine Brooks The Complete Poems - Emily Dickinson (Poem - A Light Exists in Spring)A Thousand Mornings - Mary Oliver (Poem - When I’m Among The Trees) Swimming in the Dark - Tomasz JedrowskiThe Grief Nurse - Angie Spoto The Masterpiece - Emile Zola The Signature of All Things - Elizabeth GilbertFind Cygnet Perfumery on Instagram or on their website.Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:11:2328/05/2024
Innovative Classics
Part 2: when the pairing process is finally complete. Uncovering classic literature with a twist and thinking a little outside the box.Following on from our deep dive into Susanna Clarke’s Piranesi, Suzy and Clare discuss a multitude of text and olfactory experience. From literary cannon to fantasy that makes you view the world a little differently, an array of experiences are covered. Suzy is a multi-award winning fragrance writer, currently writing for The Perfume Society’s magazine ‘The Scented Letter’ and co-host of the wonderful fragrance podcast ‘On the Scent’. If you haven’t had a chance to listen to Part 1, please indulge. We hope you enjoy Part 2 as much as we did recording it. Fragrances mentioned:Ormonde Jayne - Woman Musc Ravageur - Fredrick Malle by Maurice Roucel Paloma Picasso - Paloma Picasso Ingenious Ginger - Goldfield & Banks Silky Woods Elixir - Goldfield & BanksBooks mentioned: Jane Eyre - Charlotte Bronte A Scandal In Bohemia - Arthur Conan Doyle A Room of One’s Own - Virginia Woolf (The performance of this book can be found in full on Youtube. The actress is Eileen Atkins) The Garden Party: A Novel - Grace Dane Mazur Uprooted - Naomi Novak Find Suzy on Instagram, listen to her via the On the Scent Podcast, sign up to read The Scented Letter.Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:21:5721/05/2024
The House
A deep dive into a single and singular novel. Float away on the tide of interpretations of scent and story.Trying to describe what it’s like to have such an in depth conversation with Suzy Nightingale, is a little like nailing jelly to a tree. Suzy is a multi-award winning fragrance writer, currently writing for The Perfume Society’s magazine ‘The Scented Letter’, co-host of one of my favourite fragrance podcast ‘On the Scent’ and the ultimate perfume prescription giver. Apart from being hugely knowledgeable about fragrance, Suzy has written many a pairing article. This is part one of a two part conversation, as we were having too much of a good time to keep it short and simple Fragrances mentioned:Ink - Perfumer HThe Herbalist - Heretic Parfum Plein Air - Cygnet Perfumery (this is an extrait, not an oil. I apologise) Moonmilk - Stora SkugganMitti Attar - KannaujPurple Heart V5 - Map of the Heart Rose Geranium (Bath Essence) - Floris Cristalle - Chanel Egoïste - Chanel Rose Ardoise - Atelier Materi Megamare - Orto ParisiBook mentioned: Piranesi - Susanna ClarkFind Suzy on Instagram, listen to her via the On the Scent Podcast, sign up to read The Scented Letter or check out her talk on the 18th of May 2024 at the Barnes Fragrance Fair Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:21:4414/05/2024
Mountains, Moors and Mechanical Friends
An episode that delves into robotic companions, empowering scents, comfort, inner diva connections, and romantic allure.There is a multitude of diverse topics that are covered in this in-depth conversation with Cherie, a multifaceted fragrance reviewer, blogger, and vlogger. Whilst we start with existential crises, we wander through a captivating exploration of scents interwoven with literature, cultivating a safe haven where one can discover companionship during life's adversities. Our conversation covers to the profound solace and camaraderie found in childhood memories and certain scent profiles, evoking a sense of comfort and connection that resonates deeply. Furthermore, we explore the empowering potential of embracing your true self authentically, navigating through life with sincerity and courage.Fragrances mentioned:Precious Forest - Keiko MecheriGucci - Memoire d'une OdeurFueille - Miskeo Blackwater Thistle - Criminal ElementsOrmonde Jayne - WomanDiva - Emanuel UngaroSonges - Goutal Books mentioned: Psalm for the Wild Built - Becky Chambers Anne of Green Gables - L. M Montgomery Jane Eyre - Charlotte Bronte Diva - Daisy GoodwinVioletta - Isabel AllendeFind Cherie on Instagram, Youtube, TikTok and The Top Note Website Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:04:2107/05/2024
Film Adaptations
Throwing fragrances into the mix whilst exploring that age old discussion about whether the book is indeed better than the filmThis episode delves into the captivating world of pairing fragrances with books that have been brought to life on the silver screen. Suzy from ScentnSensibility, known for her expertise in pairing films and fragrances on Instagram and TikTok, joins us as we combine our powers of pairing to explore the intersection of literature, cinema, and scent. Together, we meticulously compare and contrast our selections, delving into the nuances of how fragrances can evoke the essence of beloved stories that have made their transition from page to film. Join us for a sensory journey as we unravel the enchanting connections between these art forms.For fragrances and books meioned (there are quite a few) please go to www.paperbackperfumes.comFind out more about Suzy on Instagram and TikTokTheme music for the episode created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:14:5730/04/2024
Individuals and Archetypes
The processes of reconnecting with self, self-actualization through scent and archetypal tropes in textsIn this episode, we are joined by Pep, also known as The Scentinel, a prominent figure in the Australian fragrance community. Since 2017, Pep has captivated audiences with his deep-seated love for perfumes, particularly those crafted by niche and independent perfumers. Through the lens of archetypes, personal odysseys, and folklore, we are set to uncover the layers of meaning embedded within the fragrances we wear. Prepare for an enriching conversation that transcends the boundaries of scent and narrative, as we unravel the tapestry of individual experiences and universal symbols.Fragrances mentionedTeatro alla Scala - KriziaRule 72 - 27 87Guidance - Amouage Fate Woman - AmouageEau d’Hermes - HermesBoujee Bougie - Guilded Pistil - Miskeo Espices - Miskeo Brume - Miskeo Daim - Miskeo Books mentionedTaste: My Life Through Food - Stanley TucciRogues: True Stories of Grifters, Killers, Rebels and Crooks - Patrick Radden KeefeThe Alchemist - Paulo CalhoWhere the Wild Things Are - Maurice SendakThe Wolf and The Woodsman - Ava Reid Kitchens of the Great Midwest - J Ryan Stradal The Gardener - Salley VickersThe Women In Black - Madeline St John Find Pep onInstagram @the_scentinel_Youtube @TheScentinelIn Podcast land @ Pep Talks Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
01:12:4523/04/2024
Lumious Omissions
Shining Light in Dark Places: simplicity, pathways, healing and connectionIn this episode of Paperback Perfumes episode, Clare engages in a fascinating discussion with Vanessa Lindemann, widely recognized as @vanessasskins, delving into the distinctions between the perfume sectors in Europe and New Zealand. Our conversation delves deep into the profound impact of narratives on scents, underscoring the immense significance of even the most minute intricacies.Fragrances discussed:Lovely - Al-RehabClementine and Starfruit Hair and Body Mist - Body Shop Revolucion - Carner BarcelonaA Drop D’issey - Issey MiyakeBlack Anise - AbelBooks discussed:Winter Gifts - Ben Aaronovitch Kazou Ishigoru - Klara and the SunSmall Things Like These - Claire KeeganCatch Vanessa on Instagram, TikTok and Pinterest.Theme music for the episode created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
41:4616/04/2024
Return of the Rivers
The world of magic will ensure that your life is never the same again. Laura Bass, the Sales and Marketing Coordinator at Lore Perfumery, recently embarked on a wonderful pairing event for Library Lover’s Day to team up with Clare. The duo planned to co-host a special event centered around the intriguing connection between scents and the diverse dimensions of relationships.Although they encountered a minor setback due to technical glitches, Laura graciously took on the challenge of reprising her role as the fragrance maestro. She's meticulously paired fragrances that have the power to transform lives with literary treasures that are nothing short of magical and timeless.Fragrances discussed Dirty Hinoki - Heretic Parfum The Herbalist - Heretic ParfumEight and Bob - Eight and BobTerror & Magnificence - Beaufort London Silver Musk - NassomatoTerroni - Orto ParisiCoven- Andrea Maack Books discussed Jerusalem: The Biography - Simon Seabag MontefioreSarah J Mass series (very brief mention, don’t get too excited) Rivers of London - Ben Aaronovitch Return of the King - J.R.R Tolkien Theme music for the show was created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Find Lore Perfumery on Instagram, Facebook and their website Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
42:5710/04/2024
Elegant Vamps and Big Ships
Where incense filled churches meets sapphic socialites with fortitude Dr. Tamsin Paige, a distinguished Senior Lecturer at Deakin Law School, is renowned for her work on dissecting legal practice in popular fiction through her academic papers. Apart from her scholarly pursuits, she is also known as a DJ, a former french pâtissier, and intriguingly, has potentially been involved in apprehending Somalian pirates at some point, only to later document the experience in writing.During the episode, hosts Clare and Tamsin engage in a unique activity where they select fragrances for each other that would perfectly complement a book of their choosing. This exercise leads to a captivating discussion exploring the intricate connections between scent, fiction, and ethics. Tune in to delve deep into the world of literature and perfume with Clare and Dr. Tamsin Paige in this thought-provoking episode of Paperback Perfumes.Fragrances discussed Cherry Blossom - L’OccitaneVanilla Vibes - Juliette Has A Gun Izia La Nuit - Sisley Bois d’Encens - Armani Prive Dragonfly - Zoologist Books discussed 84k - Claire NorthBone Season - Samantha ShannonThe Old Lie - Claire Coleman Newflesh trilogy - Mira Grant Dead Witch Walking - Kim Harrison A Restless Truth - Freya MaskeAdditional texts mentioned:Legally Blonde Black SailsStar Trek (Original Series)PicardStarship TroopersDredd (2012 Film) Theme music for the episode created by Raul Sanchez I Jorge. Check out his solo work on Wild Animal Records Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
54:2010/04/2024
Deadly Creatures and Dames
The world of femme fatales and murder: uniqueness, heroes and colloquialismsIn the debut episode of Paperback Perfumes, Clare and her guest, Elissa, a musician, fashion designer, and self-proclaimed lover of all things vintage, reflect on their recent olfactory expedition to a nearby perfumery, also known as a 'Sniffari'. Engaging in a lively conversation, they delve into the realm of signature scents while reminiscing about vintage fragrances and sharing anecdotes about working behind perfume counters. The discussion meanders to noir films, murder mystery novels, and the unique experience of seeing books come to life through film and television adaptations.Fragrances discussedFracas - Robert PiguetRhinoceros - ZoologistNuit De Bakerlite - Noami GoodsirBooks discussedThe Big Sleep - Raymond Chandler The Secret at Chimneys - Agatha Christie The Herb of Death - Agatha ChristieFind Elissa on Instagram @ms_elle_rose Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
26:4310/04/2024