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Episode: Confectionology (CANDY) with Susan Benjamin
Author: Alie Ward
Duration: 01:46:59
Episode Shownotes
Licorice opinions! War chocolate! Candy corn origins, circus peanut secrets, the sourest sourballs, and your great aunt’s purse. Stay until the very end for the biggest shocked laugh I have ever had on this show. The incredibly charming author, journalist, candy historian, and Confectiologist Susan Benjamin chats about everything from
apothecary origin stories, ethnobotany, having horehound on hand, the warheads that could save you, vegan candy controversy, sugar sources from beets to corn, Turkish temptations, Roman flim-flam, marzipan mini-sculptures, sugar plum ballets, what she gives out for Halloween candy. and the best way to enjoy treats if you're trying to stay healthy. An absolute instant classic. Visit Susan Benjamin’s historic candy company True TreatsBuy Susan’s latest book, Fun Foods of America: Outrageous Delights, Celebrated Brands, and Iconic Recipes, on Amazon or Bookshop.orgA donation went to Animal Welfare Society of Jefferson CountyMore episode sources and linksSmologies (short, classroom-safe) episodesOther episodes you may enjoy: Gustology (TASTE), Molecular Neurobiology (BRAIN CHEMICALS), Carobology (NOT-CHOCOLATE TREES), Glycobiology (CARBS), Diabetology (BLOOD SUGAR), Melittology (BEES), Native Melittology (INDIGENOUS BEES), Columbidology (PIGEONS? YES), Felinology (CATS), Attention-Deficit Neuropsychology (ADHD), FIELD TRIP: My Butt, a Colonoscopy Ride Along & How-To, Nephology (CLOUDS)Sponsors of OlogiesTranscripts and bleeped episodesBecome a patron of Ologies for as little as a buck a monthOlogiesMerch.com has hats, shirts, hoodies, totes!Follow @Ologies on Instagram and XFollow @AlieWard on Instagram and XEditing by Mercedes Maitland of Maitland Audio Productions and Jacob ChaffeeManaging Director: Susan HaleScheduling Producer: Noel DilworthTranscripts by Aveline Malek Website by Kelly R. DwyerTheme song by Nick Thorburn
Summary
In this episode of 'Ologies with Alie Ward,' candy historian Susan Benjamin explores the fascinating evolution of candy from its medicinal origins to its role in modern culture. Discussing topics like the transformation of candy use through history, the industrialization of candy production, and the unique stories behind treats like Hershey's Kisses and circus peanuts, the conversation encapsulates the sociocultural significance of confectionery. Benjamin emphasizes the importance of enjoying candies mindfully, balancing indulgence with health, all while highlighting the rich narratives embedded in our sugary favorites.
Go to PodExtra AI's episode page (Confectionology (CANDY) with Susan Benjamin) to play and view complete AI-processed content: summary, mindmap, topics, takeaways, transcript, keywords and highlights.
Full Transcript
00:00:00 Speaker_02
Oh hey, it's that guy that you work with who somehow has like eight pairs of cool glasses. How does he do that? Allie Ward. Here we are, Spooktober. Spooktober is always full of like scary, creepy things.
00:00:12 Speaker_02
And now this one is terrifying for your teeth and your pancreas, but not your tongues or your hearts. So let's get into it. This is just pure fun candy.
00:00:21 Speaker_02
So there are very few candy researchers and historians in the world, and we hunted down the best one and had one of my favorite conversations in the history of this podcast. What a treat.
00:00:33 Speaker_02
And it was only tricky to make because there's so much information that I could not keep to myself. So this is pretty comprehensive, but it's also not comprehensive because candy is a huge world.
00:00:43 Speaker_02
So we're going to get into it in a sec but first thank you to all the patrons at patreon.com for supporting the show for as little as a dollar a month and you get to submit your questions if you're a patron.
00:00:52 Speaker_02
Thank you to everyone skulking around in Ology's merch from ologysmerch.com. Thank you as always to people who leave reviews for us which help the show so much and since I read each one, thank you. This week to Melanpharmarin Jim.
00:01:06 Speaker_02
who wrote keep up the great work don't change a thing don't let the pew dwellers tell you not to swear potty language is the spice of life as long as you wash your hands before afternoon tea thank you jim the melon farmer and everyone who is looking for kids save episodes
00:01:21 Speaker_02
Just in general, I swear here and there in this show, but we do have classroom safe episodes specifically for you if you need that. It's a show called Smologies, and you can find it wherever you get podcasts. It's linked in the show notes.
00:01:33 Speaker_02
Those episodes, again, are classroom safe, all ages safe, in case you do not like the occasional adult word. Anyway, if you've ever left a review, I've read it, and thank you. Okay, confectiology.
00:01:44 Speaker_02
It is a term that comes from the Latin for to confect or to make by mixing, especially a medicinal preparation. We'll get into it.
00:01:51 Speaker_02
And this expert is a journalist, a former journalism professor, the author of over 10 books, including 2016's Sweet as Sin, the unwrapped story of how candy became America's favorite pleasure.
00:02:05 Speaker_02
And she also has this year's recent book release, Fun Foods of America, outrageous delights, celebrated brands, and iconic recipes. Now, for the last 15 years, she's also owned the nation's only historic candy company. It's called True Treats.
00:02:20 Speaker_02
Ships all over the map and has a store in Harper's Ferry, Virginia and True Treats was once an answer on Jeopardy! Pretty big deal.
00:02:28 Speaker_02
Thisologist has appeared on so many radio and TV outlets to educate people about the historical and cultural relevance of candy. It took us months to
00:02:38 Speaker_02
to book her for this special spooktober but not scary just fun episode and honestly this is one of the most spirited blissful chats we've ever done with some revelations at the end which shook me shook i'm still laughing about it so stick around till the very end because it's the best
00:02:56 Speaker_02
Okay, on to everything from divisive candies, apothecary origin stories, military grade chocolate, the warheads that could save you, the polarization of licorice root, having whorehound on hand, sugar sources from beet to corn, Turkish temptations, Roman flim flam,
00:03:13 Speaker_02
marzipan mini sculptures, the sourest of the sour balls, sugar plum ballets, your great aunt's purse, vegan candy controversies, what she gives out for Halloween candy, and the best way to enjoy treats if you're trying to stay healthy with author, journalist, and candy historian, confectiologist, Susan Benjamin.
00:03:55 Speaker_02
Right before we started recording, you were telling me that there are very few candy experts in the world. I think perhaps you are the only one, right?
00:04:03 Speaker_04
What I do is scholarly research. Yeah, the history of candy is really interesting because it's about the people who ate it. So candy is unique, though, because there's so little scholarly research done and there's so many misconceptions.
00:04:23 Speaker_04
And it's so reveals things about our culture and who we are and how we treat each other in our relationship to food, sex, fun, the environment, name it. It's always remarkable. It's always remarkable.
00:04:36 Speaker_03
I'm fascinated by this. And I feel like every time I go into one of those candy stores, it has a bunch of barrels full of taffy and swirls. And you walk in there and it smells like sarsaparilla.
00:04:48 Speaker_02
You feel like you're stepping back into old times. And I've always been so curious about it. And I'm also wondering, when did we start calling it candy? When did it go from a medicinal lozenge to like, I'm just eating this because I want to?
00:05:01 Speaker_04
So I don't know how far back you want me to go because my research starts prehistory. Love it. And it goes all the way up through the ages.
00:05:11 Speaker_04
And then the part of candy history you're talking about, which is what most people think of is the so-called retro candy. So if you want to look at when did it become candy and those taffies that you mentioned, you really need to start looking at
00:05:29 Speaker_04
how people use cane sugar, which goes back to the old spice trade. And that was the beginning of what would then become pulled sugars and other things in the 1400s. And then it made their way to the 1500s and then became useful.
00:05:45 Speaker_04
to enslave people who didn't have access to things, but they used what they had and were able to pull molasses, which is the dregs of the sugar, for example, and use sorghum.
00:05:56 Speaker_04
And that was the origin of what then became the taffy, and that has its own story.
00:06:02 Speaker_02
More on taffy later because it's bonkers, but back to prehistory.
00:06:06 Speaker_04
There are Swedish scientists who found Oh, millennia ago, people were chewing tree resins as gum and scientists have found teeth marks in the gum indicating that and they were at least some of the samples were from teenagers, from teenagers.
00:06:26 Speaker_04
So you can imagine like way back, these kids chewing gum and the mother, yeah, spit it out, but they spit it out and then flash forward and we got it.
00:06:36 Speaker_04
But what's interesting is that those tars and resins that they chewed, and they chewed for their teeth, and they became the foundation of today's chewing gum, and literally are still used in some chewing gums as the base.
00:06:54 Speaker_04
And up until World War II, people were chewing resins just as resins or as softer gums. So for the same reason, people thought it was good for the teeth, freshen your breath, gave you something to do.
00:07:08 Speaker_02
So yes, ancient teens smack and jaw. According to a 2019 paper titled, Ancient DNA from Mastic Solidifies Connection Between Material Culture and Genetics of Mesolithic Hunter-Gatherers in Scandinavia.
00:07:20 Speaker_02
and they were of the late Mesolithic period about 10,000 years ago.
00:07:24 Speaker_02
And wads of chewed birch bark pitch found at an archaeological site based on the tooth wear and the molar placement suggest that the chewers were both male and female and around 12 to 14 years old.
00:07:38 Speaker_02
But there was this 2024 follow-up study called Metagenomic Analysis of Mesolithic Chewed Pitch Reveals Poor Oral Health Among Stone Age Individuals
00:07:47 Speaker_02
and it went further into those wads of gum, and they were able to extract DNA to see what those kiddos were eating. And the scientists identified DNA sequences from species such as red fox, hazelnut, red deer, and apple.
00:08:01 Speaker_02
But honestly, chewing gum can have its own episode, so we're gonna get back to candy. You mentioned a little bit about using the dregs, using molasses and sorghum. What typically have candies been composed of?
00:08:17 Speaker_02
Has it changed a lot from things like honeys and waxes to cane sugar to corn syrup? Do you see kind of an evolution in composition?
00:08:28 Speaker_04
So within the universe, say, of sugars, there was cane sugar, there was some honey, not as much as people think. And in North America, of course, honey bee didn't get here until the 15th, 1600s, so it's brand new.
00:08:42 Speaker_04
But people use sugars from maple, that would be the Native Americans, and they would use it from fruits.
00:08:49 Speaker_02
And as we discussed in the melatology and indigenous melatology episodes about beekeeping and native bees, respectively,
00:08:57 Speaker_02
So the cultivated honeybees that you see in North America are feral from livestock populations brought over by European colonizers. They're not native here.
00:09:06 Speaker_02
But in Central America, as far back as 3,000 years, indigenous populations in the Yucatan Peninsula
00:09:13 Speaker_02
hunted and collected wild honey and they kept populations of this stingless honey-producing bee called Melopona beechii, which is now nearly extinct in the region.
00:09:24 Speaker_02
And there was this 2010 paper titled, Ancient Maya Beekeeping, and it notes that bees and their honey were considered sacred and valuable.
00:09:32 Speaker_02
But yeah, in North America, when you just see a regular old honeybee, Apis mellifera, you are looking at essentially a feral cat or a pigeon.
00:09:41 Speaker_02
And for more on those, you can see the Columbidology Pigeon episodes and the Phelanology episodes, of course. But yeah, Susan is here for the history and what it says about culture.
00:09:51 Speaker_04
So I wanna know what every, like what were women in a rural setting using for food and what kind of sugars, what was their idea of celebration and fun?
00:10:01 Speaker_04
And so you go to these newspapers and then you get the letters to the editors or you have these intrepid reporters who are out there interviewing enslaved people while they were enslaved.
00:10:13 Speaker_04
So if you want to say what is the difference between candy and say baked goods or other foods, it is that it's based in sugar of some sort, right? And that's what I see as the difference. Also culturally, how is candy different?
00:10:27 Speaker_04
So candy is something that we eat for fun and it makes us feel good, but it's also something that we give to people as a gift of love. and has not that many other uses, but it didn't start that way.
00:10:40 Speaker_04
So originally, candy was something that had a lot of sugar in it and was based in sugar. But like everything, really, it had some health or medicinal value to it. And so sugar was used both as a medicine in itself and then as a disguise.
00:11:00 Speaker_02
So the Industrial Revolutions, where goods went from individually handmade to machine produced, that started around the mid-1700s, and it spanned until the mid-1800s, thanks in part to the development and the refinement of the steam engine.
00:11:15 Speaker_02
And people were like, you guys, let's make more shit for people to buy.
00:11:20 Speaker_04
So by the time we got to the Industrial Age, to the, let's say, mid-1800s, right, now we see people have the opportunity to make more things because of the Industrial Revolution. and they're able to market it.
00:11:39 Speaker_04
So they can make things that they can market and that they can bring to untapped audiences and sell. So candy came about, as we know it today, as serving that purpose, but it never quite left the medicinal world behind.
00:11:58 Speaker_04
So candy was, candy as we know it in the industrial sense, was made for working class kids as one of the primary audiences. They never had enough money to buy anything. They were able to get a penny, a half penny, whatever.
00:12:13 Speaker_04
And marketers targeted working class kids to buy their goods. And this is pivotal, in my opinion, in the sales of candy.
00:12:23 Speaker_04
enabled working class kids for the first time ever to see themselves as part of the economy of America and to see themselves as empowered or in being able to at some point fully live in this environment of who we are as Americans as not a supporting actor, but as a principal actor in all of that.
00:12:49 Speaker_04
And it was being able to go and have commerce that so mattered to the role of candy. The well-to-do really hated that. There has always been a tremendous amount of classism that now is subverted, but was really blatant.
00:13:09 Speaker_04
And if you look at the old writings about candy, they say these urchins think if they can go buy something, they'll have power and they can't. They would blame candy on murders. They would blame candy on deaths, fires, robberies.
00:13:26 Speaker_02
So yeah, in 1852, a doctor by the name of James Redfield asserted that as sugar was refined from its natural sources, it was another stage in the downhill course of deception and mockery, of cowardice, cruelty,
00:13:42 Speaker_02
In a century later, in 1955, Edward Podolsky, who was an American doctor, also a sexologist, wrote in the paper The Chemical Brew of Criminal Behavior that there is an intimate relationship between the amount of sugar present in the blood
00:13:56 Speaker_02
and man's social behavior, and cited a list of crimes committed either under the influence of insulin or in a state of spontaneous low blood sugar, including everything from assault and battery to homicide, various sexual perversions, false fire alarms, petty larceny, arson, and traffic infractions.
00:14:16 Speaker_02
And some delinquents, he said, have a tendency to hypoglycemia, and the lower the sugar level falls, the greater is the tendency to commit a criminal act. Now, as for blood sugar, it can definitely affect your mood, and in my case, my sanity.
00:14:30 Speaker_02
Now, some people mentally associate eating a lot of sugar with high blood glucose and hyperactive children scaling the drapes.
00:14:39 Speaker_02
But it should also be noted that some folks, in response to a spike in glucose, produce a really quick rush of insulin, which sends the glucose into the cells, thus their blood sugar actually crashes.
00:14:50 Speaker_02
And this is called reactive hypoglycemia, or postprandial hyperinsulinemia. and I know that because apparently I have it and I had to take like a five-hour blood test at the doctor's.
00:15:00 Speaker_02
I'm one of those people, in my case, when I eat sugar, it was helpful because I can cry on a dime. It's really weird, but at least it's not penny larceny.
00:15:08 Speaker_02
But there was also this 2009 British Journal of Psychiatry paper titled, Confectionary Consumption in Childhood and Adult Violence. citing correlations between candy consumption in childhood and violent crime later in life.
00:15:22 Speaker_02
But there were a ton of critics of this study, citing that permissive parenting may have had the key role.
00:15:29 Speaker_02
And I imagine 15 years later, researchers would also now look at neurodivergence and dopamine seeking, as well as chronic PTSD from poor accommodations. But what the hell do I know?
00:15:42 Speaker_02
less than an ADHD expert, and Dr. Russell Barkley is in our three-part ADHD episode, and he does touch on impulsivity and inadequate childhood interventions for neurodivergent kids and how that affects adulthood.
00:15:54 Speaker_02
So yes, what's a response to social structures that are simply inequitable, and what's dietary, and what can our little ape bodies and our lizard brains even handle?
00:16:05 Speaker_02
Either way, when poor kids had penny candy, people were like, lock your doors, hell's gonna break loose.
00:16:11 Speaker_04
They treated it almost as we would today as say somebody who's all hopped up on Coke, right? I mean, ironically, the Coke and opium in those days were in the pharmacies, but not in the candy.
00:16:23 Speaker_04
But yeah, it's really important and it's really good and it served a really valuable purpose to these kids who could purchase it.
00:16:31 Speaker_02
And that leap from pharmacy to candy counter, Are we seeing the hard candies that we're used to seeing? Did those start as lozenges?
00:16:41 Speaker_02
What are some of the types of candy that the industry recognizes from confections to taffies to suckers to bonbons to hard candies?
00:16:50 Speaker_03
What kind of array? How do you classify them?
00:16:53 Speaker_04
That's a good question. I would classify them by their purpose and who's eating them. And so the hard candies that you're talking about, the boiled sugars, go back forever. A rock candy, for example, has got to be, I don't know, you know,
00:17:09 Speaker_04
at least two millennia old, but it was always used, as it is today, for sore throat, and it's of its own kind of thing, similar to, say, the sugar plums.
00:17:21 Speaker_04
And the sugar plums you see coming around the 14-1500s, which were little cedar knot, put in a balancing pan over a fire,
00:17:30 Speaker_04
with sugar syrup or something of that sort in it, rolled around, let to sit, put back, rolled around, let to sit, blah, blah, blah, blah. They were for well-to-do European women and then well-to-do American women who would eat them
00:17:45 Speaker_04
after a meal as a digestive and refreshment for their breath, right? Those became, turn a century, with the machinery that's a panning machine that looked kind of like a cement mixer, or is kind of like when you were rolled around.
00:18:02 Speaker_04
They became the jawbreaker.
00:18:03 Speaker_00
Boy, howdy.
00:18:05 Speaker_04
It went from being from the very well-to-do and something very upper crust and took a great deal of skill to make, to being something that little kids or even older could go and buy, put it in their pocket and have it. That's hard candy.
00:18:19 Speaker_02
And just a really quick chemistry lesson. So candy has different terms depending on the temperature that the sugar is cooked at.
00:18:26 Speaker_02
And according to this very handy article titled, The Cold Water Candy Test from Exploratorium.org, my favorite childhood museum in San Francisco. So you've got the soft ball stage.
00:18:36 Speaker_02
This starts around 240 degrees Fahrenheit or 115 Celsius and this will result in a texture like fudge or pralines. Next up is the firm ball stage which you'll get caramel texture.
00:18:49 Speaker_02
The hard ball stage will get you textures like nougat, marshmallows, and gummies. And then as the temperatures increase that you're cooking the sugar at, the moisture goes down, the sugar quotient increases,
00:19:01 Speaker_02
and you have the soft crack stage, that's like saltwater taffy and butterscotch, and then the hard crack stage of nut brittles and lollipops and hard candies and toffees. So your candy is a chemistry experiment. So side note on those sugar plums,
00:19:17 Speaker_02
Sometimes they did have a little prune center, but more often than not, they just tended to be oval-shaped. So just think of plum-shaped sugar balls, more than prunes dusted in sugar powder, which is what I always thought that sugar plums were.
00:19:30 Speaker_02
No, they're like hard candies. Also, you know the sugar plum fairy in the Tchaikovsky ballet, The Nutcracker? Okay, so she's the ruler of the land of sweets while the prince is away, I guess. She's like a deputy governor, but in a tutu.
00:19:43 Speaker_02
Also, it would be so good to see like a Halloween adaptation of The Nutcracker, but instead of the sugar plum fairy, it's like the Jawbreaker Goblin. Someone get some funding for that.
00:19:54 Speaker_03
Would those women suck on it for a little bit and put it back in a drawer, or would they eat the whole sugar plum at one time?
00:20:00 Speaker_04
Well, what I'm talking about is a teeny little sugarplum. Okay, I wasn't sure. But they did have, say, sour balls, right? So you're too young, but my grandmother and all of my great aunts had these purses.
00:20:17 Speaker_04
And in the purses, they had these black purses. Anybody my age, going on 67, will know what I'm talking about. They would have candy bowls or they had purses. And they would sit there talking, talking, talking, talking.
00:20:29 Speaker_04
And in the bottom of their purses were Lifesavers and Sour Balls and things of that sort. And you didn't even have to ask. or just go in and you could just rummage in or they would just offer it to you and it didn't matter.
00:20:43 Speaker_04
You could have all that you wanted. It was great. They were bite-sized.
00:20:49 Speaker_04
The bridge mix, the little chocolate-covered raisins, they were deliberately made bite-sized so that you could, say, play cards with one hand and just sort of eat your candies with the other. They were meant for decorum, no matter who was eating it.
00:21:03 Speaker_04
Candy bears are a different story. We don't talk about those when we talk about good manners.
00:21:09 Speaker_03
Yeah, you're not playing gin rummy and eating a Snickers probably.
00:21:14 Speaker_04
Let's put it this way, your grandmother would never have a candy bar on the bottom of her purse. She'd have a little lifesaver that she would fold over the top, but she would not have a Snickers bar. Yeah.
00:21:24 Speaker_02
So there are those hard candies, there are sours, yeah. What are some other types of candies?
00:21:28 Speaker_04
There are hard candies, there are taffies, there are fizzes, there are chocolates, there are filled chocolates, there are soft paste candies like the Natka wafer, which was made, by the way, in 1847, one of the first
00:21:45 Speaker_04
candies to be made out of an apothecary.
00:21:47 Speaker_02
And just a side note, so the NECA wafer inventor, who's this Boston apothecary, had a brother and his brother invented this other chalky candy you've had in your pocket or your mouth. Valentine's Day conversation hearts.
00:22:00 Speaker_02
which explains why they taste so much alike.
00:22:02 Speaker_02
Also, if you've ever read the Chronicles of Narnia and you could not pay attention to the narrative because you just kept wondering what the fuck Turkish delights were, they were like a wiggly jelly cube, but rose and almond and pistachio or any fruit flavor.
00:22:15 Speaker_02
And they emerged, of course, in Turkey in an apothecary. And they were also called lokum, which means to rest your throat. And the irony of me doing this episode while sick is not lost on me.
00:22:27 Speaker_02
it's brutal, but Turkish delights began to spread worldwide in the 1700s and eventually like a smaller candy-coated version became our modern-day jellybean. Now as for C.S.
00:22:38 Speaker_02
Lewis making locum the locus of downfall in The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe, There's this historian, Kara Strickland, who wrote an essay titled, Why Was Turkish Delight C.S. Lewis's Guilty Pleasure?
00:22:50 Speaker_02
And it poses the hypothesis that the book was written during World War II when confections were rationed and these exotic treasures were hard to come by for nearly a decade. he maybe wrote the whole book just jonesing for candy.
00:23:03 Speaker_02
But let's turn our attention to some gummier matters. Something that just walloped me was learning that Haribo, the makers of gummy bears, that's a German company and it comes from the founder's name, Hans Riegel Bon, Haribo.
00:23:17 Speaker_02
And this entire time, I thought Haribo was Japanese because when it comes to weird candy, Japan hits us in the face with its gloves and we take it.
00:23:28 Speaker_04
So I would say, what are the kinds? The gummy candies, which originated, many think, I think, from the Turkish delight year 900. But the gummy candies, which are its own kind of existence.
00:23:42 Speaker_04
There are all sorts of creams, French creams, those creamy things that just melt in your mouth.
00:23:47 Speaker_02
My grandma's preference was a dish of butter mints, which are the ones that look like a stale mini marshmallow, but then they dissolve into like a peppermint paste in your mouth.
00:23:58 Speaker_02
And Susan said that those were also used to cover booze breath in saloons. So on the topic of less innocent confections.
00:24:06 Speaker_04
The candies that we're talking about had a lot, not the ones my grandmother had, God forbid, but they had a lot to do with sex. Yeah, and they still do today. Haven't you ever had a creamy chocolate? Ooh, yeah. So truffles are a good example.
00:24:28 Speaker_04
They really came into being in France around the time of the Moulin Rouge.
00:24:33 Speaker_04
And if you look at the paintings of, say, Toulouse-Lautrec, which are very sexual and very sensual and amazing, and if he didn't come from such a well-to-do family, he probably would have been imprisoned for them.
00:24:46 Speaker_04
But he didn't, they were just gorgeous. They were comparable art to what the truffle was. And so the truffle was a gift that you would go when you're going out to meet with somebody,
00:24:57 Speaker_04
if you're a man in particular, although the, you know, Toulouse-Lautrec version would be men with men and women with women, but the commercial version was a man meeting a woman and would have a box of chocolates. And that was, in our opinions, as a
00:25:15 Speaker_04
Victorian culture, a gift of fondness. And really, they were gifts of sex. And come on, let's go have some sex. They were very sensual, the roses and the swirls and so forth.
00:25:30 Speaker_04
I mean, you know, a gynecologist would recognize a lot of their use, how they're done. So they're also really sexual. I mean, it's been so multi-purpose.
00:25:41 Speaker_03
Were there certain ingredients in candy that were considered aphrodisiacs and for adults and sour things that were for kids? Are there certain flavor profiles that target different demographics?
00:25:54 Speaker_04
I would say that for kids, it really was the cheapness of the candy. So, you know, there were the little kiss candies, which Hershey did not invent. It was the name of the candy. It's a little kiss. It's a little piece. He used it.
00:26:09 Speaker_04
It was Hershey's version of the kiss. Now, the company, I don't know how long ago, not like four or five years ago, got to own it. And everybody thinks Hershey invented the kiss. And there were a million kinds of kisses.
00:26:22 Speaker_04
And little kids would go, and grown-ups too, they would go buy a bag of kisses. And it could have been Wilbur Budd, which was a kiss, or it could have been any number of marshmallows or taffies. They were little pieces.
00:26:33 Speaker_02
So yes, H.O. Wilbur developed this drop-shaped candy from the way that the nozzle kisses the sheet underneath it. And then about 13 years later, Milton Hershey was like, that's a great idea. I love that.
00:26:46 Speaker_02
And it wasn't until the turn of the century, 2000, Y2K, that Hershey finally won the trademark to kisses. And they had to do this in court by proving that when the public hears chocolate kisses, they think Hershey's Kisses. So sorry Wilbur, you lose.
00:27:03 Speaker_02
But I don't know if it matters because the Wilbur family business has since been acquired by this multinational food giant called Cargill.
00:27:10 Speaker_02
However, they still have a Wilbur chocolate storefront in Lititz, Pennsylvania, where you can get some Wilbur Buds, which is what they're called now. Don't call them kisses. Don't do it. It's petty. It's mean.
00:27:22 Speaker_04
So kids would get that and they would get little cheap chocolates but it was the well-to-do who would have these sumptuous chocolates that were just made with no wax and skilled hands put them together and there was a great art to creating them and they were for sex.
00:27:42 Speaker_02
I had no idea that they were so sexy.
00:27:46 Speaker_04
Well, can I tell you? Yeah. Yes. May I tell you a bit of the past? Yes, please. All right. As you know, through most of time, explorers were really just raiding the cultures and the foodways of everybody.
00:27:59 Speaker_04
So, of course, a number of explorers, including Hernandez, I think it was,
00:28:03 Speaker_02
So this is Hernan Cortes, a Spanish conquistador who very famously had major beef with the emperor of the Aztec empire in the late 1400s and the early 1500s that led to the emperor's downfall and Cortes losing most of his looted treasure.
00:28:19 Speaker_02
But later, Cortes had a child with the emperor's daughter who was only 17. So I cannot imagine it was a consensual love affair. But anyway, back to this conquistador's arrival in the Aztec empire. So Hernan Cortes
00:28:33 Speaker_04
wound up in Mexico. And with him was this man who was writing, taking notes on what he saw. And there they saw, now you know what these people were like from Europe, right? I mean, in 110 degree heat, they're going to wear layers of clothes.
00:28:47 Speaker_04
And there they see this Montezuma with very few clothes and all sorts of feathers and very well clothed in his own beautiful way. And so he's drinking this cacao. And he has all these wives and all these half-naked women going around.
00:29:05 Speaker_04
And so somehow they figured out, and it wasn't even true, that he drank 50 chalices of chocolate a day to placate his many wives. So A, I don't think he cared less about placating his wives.
00:29:21 Speaker_04
And B, the chalices of chocolate were available to everybody, and he just really liked them. And they were meant to be healthy and good for you. And they were for stamina and virility, but it wasn't necessarily sex.
00:29:34 Speaker_04
But of course, you got these guys from Europe who don't even want to talk about it. They'll do it. But then, you know, they have all these cold words for it, and so on.
00:29:43 Speaker_04
And here's Montezuma's, so they go back, they bring the chocolate back to Spain, and the Spanish people harbored it, and they didn't tell anyone about it, and eventually, word leaked out, so through the marriage of royalty, and then it became this upper echelon, very fine kind of food, but Montezuma's
00:30:07 Speaker_04
relationship, alleged relationship to chocolate and its sexual powers never really left. Only now it's the well-to-do, right? With all of their clothes and perfumes and foul ways when it came to hygiene, right?
00:30:23 Speaker_04
Compared to Montezuma out there just doing his thing. I mean, no question he would raid other cultures and he would make them pay a tariff which was in fact cacaos, right? Cause it didn't grow in Mexico. I'm on a roll here, but getting back.
00:30:37 Speaker_04
So that's how chocolate became the upper echelon, sexy, sexy thing. And why we today consider it an aphrodisiac. That's amazing. But last thing, sex is in the brain, isn't it? If you think it's sexy, go eat it and have some sex. Good sex.
00:30:58 Speaker_02
So chocolate, the plant it's derived from literally means food of the gods and it does contain the amino acid tryptophan which is used to make serotonin in our brains and it also contains the stimulant phenylethylamine which is a natural euphoria-inducing cannabinoid and it boosts our dopamine reward systems.
00:31:19 Speaker_02
For more on all these neurochemicals, we have a molecular neurobiology episode for you. And for more on not chocolate, we have a whole episode on carob.
00:31:28 Speaker_02
What it is, why did almond moms of the 1970s eat it, and why is it falling from the trees in front of your house? But back to chocolate. Is it an aphrodisiac? Is it? Can someone study this? Of course they did.
00:31:41 Speaker_02
So a 2006 Journal of Sexual Medicine article titled, Chocolate and Women's Sexual Health, An Intriguing Correlation, found that yes, women in their study who ate chocolate had higher female sexual function scores.
00:31:57 Speaker_02
But, but, it also found that younger participants ate more chocolate, and that in general, younger people, they're just hornier.
00:32:05 Speaker_03
I mean, it's placebo effect is effective. Plus the texture. I just love that they saw that and they were like, it's essentially Viagra. They're like, it's Viagra is what he's drinking. He must be.
00:32:17 Speaker_04
And that whole idea of like Viagra and of needing to create who we are. The world of candy came out of a world of herbs, and it came out of a world of medicinal things, but it wasn't quite as imbued with having to reinvent ourselves.
00:32:35 Speaker_04
It's more like wanting to have a great time and not die young, if we could help it.
00:32:41 Speaker_00
Well, that's the goal anyway.
00:32:43 Speaker_03
Well, what about the preservation aspects of it? Because I know that if you candy orange peels, they tend not to spoil.
00:32:51 Speaker_02
So was candy and sugar, was that a way of preservation in olden times? Did it grow from that direction? Yes, it did.
00:33:01 Speaker_04
So I've just been working on this for one of the museums, in fact, trying to convince them that the French didn't actually create glace candy.
00:33:12 Speaker_04
But in fact, we're going to look at this from the lens of a very narrow perception of history where everything that's candy in the U.S. somehow wound up with the ancient Romans or Greeks, right? And it's not true.
00:33:27 Speaker_04
I mean, half of what they were eating came from Asia. You know what I mean? So that isn't true. So we're going to let go of that.
00:33:33 Speaker_02
Let us not credit the Roman and the Greeks with everything.
00:33:36 Speaker_04
But one of the things that you're absolutely right about is that sugar, and in particular, in many places, honey was a preservative. And it was used that way just as salt may have been.
00:33:49 Speaker_04
And honey was useful because as everybody knows, it didn't spoil, although it could have crystallized. So sugar was used as a preservative. And one of the vestiges of that is in fact the much maligned glace candy, which would be the orange peels.
00:34:07 Speaker_04
And it's much maligned because it's a core part of the very much maligned Christmas cake, right? The fruitcake. But really it has a venerable history and is based on the preservative aspect of sugar.
00:34:21 Speaker_02
So if you're wondering why a jar of honey can outlive you, some pots of it have apparently been found in ancient Egyptian tombs.
00:34:29 Speaker_02
So according to one Smithsonian article, food scientists have cited a one, two, three punch of one, the very low moisture content of honey being inhospitable to bacteria and viruses, plus it's got low pH and high acidity, and a bit of hydrogen peroxide resulting from some chemical reactions from the little honeybee tummies.
00:34:51 Speaker_02
since they eat the nectar and then they kind of barf it out into honey. Don't worry about it. We don't worry about that.
00:34:57 Speaker_03
Are there any candies that are based on the fermentation of that sugar or no? Once you've fermented, then you're just talking booze. That's just booze.
00:35:05 Speaker_04
Yeah, other way around. So the candy, oh man. All right, now let's talk about prohibition. Because candy, particularly rock candy, was used as a core fermenting agent in the alcohol, in the drink. Rock and rye.
00:35:21 Speaker_04
Rock is the rock candy and rye is the whiskey. So you put rock candy in the rye and it would create this really very syrupy kind of drink. I don't know if you've had it. No. I don't recommend it. It's up to you.
00:35:37 Speaker_02
So prohibition in the U.S. lasted from 1920 to 1933, and rock and rye was kind of like a rye old-fashioned with rye whiskey, rock candy, bitters, and a little orange rind or cherry. And there are Faygo drinkers out there.
00:35:53 Speaker_02
And yes, there is a soda flavor called Rock and Rye, which is said to taste like vanilla Dr. Pepper. And somehow, in a day-quill haze, I found myself on the subreddit Juggalos.
00:36:03 Speaker_02
And one enthusiastic Insane Clown Posse and Faygo fan proclaimed, quote, my dad found me some Rock and Rye, finally. What do you guys think of it? Whoop, whoop. And many chimed in that this flavor of Faygo was the best flavor of Faygo.
00:36:18 Speaker_04
All right, however, what was interesting was that during Prohibition, the Prohibitionists were closing everything down that was remotely connected to alcohol, including the rock candy factories.
00:36:33 Speaker_04
Even though they were genuinely making rock candy, and rock candy was genuinely important for many things, it was used as medicine for the throat, but it was also a favor to kids. They loved rock candy, right?
00:36:45 Speaker_04
closed down and they shut down all but one I think because it was so used as for alcohol. Can I tell you the flip side of that though? Yes. All right, so if you like candy, you gotta be somebody who likes to have fun, right? I mean, it's all about fun.
00:37:03 Speaker_04
So you have these candy makers during Prohibition, and they want to be able to sell their candy. All right, so how do you sell it? Everybody's making candy. There are a million kinds of candies out there.
00:37:13 Speaker_04
You sell it to kids, but you want others to buy it, right? So what do they do? They name the candy for popular illegal Prohibition-era cocktails. And so you have the cherry match, which was a very, really popular cocktail because you just took shit.
00:37:31 Speaker_04
I mean, prisoners were doing this in their bathrooms. I mean, literally, people at home, you'd take cherry or other fruits too, but cherry was real popular. You let it ferment.
00:37:40 Speaker_04
It's the sugar in the cherry, right, that makes it ferment in some of the acids. You make it into a drink. You have, do you remember the little wax bottles? They were called nickel dip, right? The nick for a nickel.
00:37:52 Speaker_04
for a bag, because they made them look like a nip of whiskey during Prohibition, or the lead into Prohibition. So you can go through one candy after the other. It's almost like a shadow rebellion against Prohibition that were the candies.
00:38:08 Speaker_03
It was great.
00:38:09 Speaker_02
I mean, I remember as a kid, we would walk down to the corner store like a block or so, my parents were like, whatever, just don't die. We'd walk down to Circle K and get a slushie. Absolute Treasure was buying a pack of candy cigarettes as a child.
00:38:27 Speaker_02
Yes.
00:38:28 Speaker_03
I know they still sell them, but as a child, for some reason you're like, look, I'm smoking, which is so hilarious that we do use it as a proxy for other forbidden things.
00:38:39 Speaker_04
Well, it's funny because we sell in my store. So I have a store called True Treats, right? And so it's in Harpers Ferry. And so we get to observe how people use candy.
00:38:51 Speaker_04
And of course, our best seller, I mean, we want them to be the big things, but it's candy cigarettes is the best sell. So to actually go back to the late 1800s,
00:39:03 Speaker_04
when they're selling to working-class kids, and the working-class kids want to be like grown-ups, like Hershey. They made chocolate cigarettes, so the kids would buy these chocolate cigarettes.
00:39:13 Speaker_04
I do want to tell you also, you have to remember, stay in the context of time for me for a minute, right? They also sell guns, but the guns are made out of glass. And then inside the barrel of the guns, they have these little candy balls.
00:39:28 Speaker_04
And kids would want, they buy them because they want, probably they want the little glass guns, but they also get the candy or vice versa, who knows which. By the 1940s, it became the bubblegum cigarette.
00:39:41 Speaker_04
And that was when you could blow the sugar out and it would look like smoke. And then people got suspicious that their kids would start smoking because they had these candy cigarettes. May I tell you my personal experience? Yes, you may.
00:39:59 Speaker_04
enjoy candy cigarettes, and I did smoke cigarettes for years. But it had nothing to do with the candy cigarettes.
00:40:08 Speaker_04
It had to do with Janis Joplin, because you cannot wear a lot of jewelry and drink Southern Comfort and hitchhike without a cigarette in your hand. So that 15 years of smoking cigarettes, but it had nothing to do with the candy.
00:40:23 Speaker_02
Oh, I love her.
00:40:25 Speaker_04
You know, in those days, it's just what you do.
00:40:28 Speaker_02
It was just a different time.
00:40:29 Speaker_03
It was a slightly different era. I mean, luckily, I never smoked. But I remember as a kid being like the bubble gum ones where you could blow it out because my parents smoked. So I was like, oh, I'm almost like them.
00:40:41 Speaker_03
But I began to associate cigarettes with like my mom being stressed out at tax time. So luckily, my parents' stress smoking was not the same as like Janis Joplin. I'm sorry, mom. So it taught you.
00:40:54 Speaker_02
What about when candy bars came on the scene? When did we go from a box of four bonbons to smooshing the bonbons together into one block?
00:41:03 Speaker_04
That happened. You see, another really fascinating thing. So that started with the Fry family of England in the 1800s. The stuffed thing, which they called combination candy bars, like the peanut chew and so on, those came around the 1920s.
00:41:20 Speaker_04
Actually, they became popular then. They were used during wartime. So in World War I, in the first rations ever, the government gave them candy bars because it had sugar, which they really needed. It had nuts. It had other fruits in it.
00:41:34 Speaker_04
And they gave them candy bars and they loved it. They came back and proclaimed glory. of candy bars and candy bars took off. But what's really important here, right? And this is the versatility of candy.
00:41:49 Speaker_04
You better have me back on your show because I'm just getting going. The versatility of chocolate bars is amazing because they, now think about this, chocolate bars were sold as a meal in a bar during the depression.
00:42:10 Speaker_04
And they were also sold as energy bars, fast energy bars. And people bought them for that. They didn't have money. They went out and they got a candy bar and they felt that they were okay, right? So now, and this is the bizarre thing about candy,
00:42:28 Speaker_04
We eat it and we don't know we're eating it. You take your average energy bar that has a brown label, it is very serious, and it has a sports thing on it, like somebody running, like a cartoon thing, right? You're eating a candy bar.
00:42:44 Speaker_04
It's the same, you know, don't give me that. You can put all the vitamins you want on the wrapper. It is a candy bar. And the way it's marketed is no different
00:42:54 Speaker_04
from the way it was marketed when the National Confections Association was marketing it in the 1920s and 30s.
00:43:02 Speaker_02
So while the first chocolate bars were made in the mid-1800s, they did in fact take off in demand after the world went to war. And chocolate bars were food for the troops. They were called D-rations.
00:43:15 Speaker_02
They were made by Hershey in 1937 at the behest of one Captain Paul Logan, who needed some chow for the troops that could handle high temperatures
00:43:24 Speaker_02
was highly caloric and, to prevent soldiers from eating them too fast, had to taste, quote, just a little better than a boiled potato. So the D-rations went off to war.
00:43:35 Speaker_02
Soldiers were like, it doesn't taste great and it hurts my teeth to bite it, but it gets the job done. Now, the first candy bars, though, those came about in the early 1900s.
00:43:45 Speaker_02
In 1912, there was a marshmallow nougat peanut confection called the Goo Goo Cluster. And shortly after came peanut chews, which were invented by an immigrant from Romania as a ration for World War I soldiers who loved it.
00:43:59 Speaker_02
Now who else loves the chocolate and molasses peanut chews? Me. Also vegans. My vegan friends always go for the peanut chews. But not so fast, I have a little bit of bad news.
00:44:09 Speaker_02
Because some sugar is refined using bone char, and some glycerin in the ingredient lists can come from animal sources.
00:44:17 Speaker_02
And peanut chews and many other candies contain hydrogenated palm kernel oil, which I'm so sorry, big downer, can lead to deforestation and peril for many species, including orangutans.
00:44:29 Speaker_02
So other folks have said peanut chews are not cruelty-free or kind. What about kind bars?
00:44:35 Speaker_02
Well, when Susan says we eat it and we don't know we're eating it, she's talking about how many candy bars started out as energy bars and how many present-day energy bars are pretty much candy bars.
00:44:46 Speaker_02
And about a decade ago, the FDA did a smackdown to four flavors of kind bar and made them stop touting themselves as healthy as the content of saturated fat was too high.
00:44:58 Speaker_02
And about a year later, Kind published a release saying that Kind sought to better educate itself on the regulation in question, and because the fats came from nuts, the FDA forgave them. They buried that hatchet.
00:45:11 Speaker_02
But yes, myself, as a college student who sometimes made negative dollars on commission working for Circuit City, selling electronics, and I would look for change under my floor mats to eat a Snickers for lunch, I get it.
00:45:24 Speaker_02
Today's energy bars sometimes are just yesterday's candy bars, but more expensive.
00:45:29 Speaker_03
Very important, right? I mean, yeah, we've got one in the bottom of the bag in case we get hungry and, you know, it's a lifesaver when you get stuck in traffic, right?
00:45:37 Speaker_04
Of course. Right? Okay, it's food. And they used to say even candy is good food, eats them every day.
00:45:45 Speaker_02
That was what they would say. But before they morphed into energy bars, of course, during the World Wars, a lot of resources were headed overseas.
00:45:53 Speaker_02
So things at home were limited, and Americans were issued these ration books with stamps that they could turn in to limit their purchases of things like meat and cooking oil and canned foods and, of course, sugar.
00:46:06 Speaker_04
So people here didn't have, at home, had sugar rations, we all know that. They didn't have much sugar. After these events, particularly the wars, and particularly World War II, well no, World War I and II,
00:46:20 Speaker_04
sugar was back and it came back in the form of candy, which people still considered medicinal.
00:46:28 Speaker_04
So grandmothers and our grandmothers and their grandmothers would go and buy tons of candy and they would have candy bowls and they would put the candy in it. And why? Because now sugar was back. And you know what that meant?
00:46:43 Speaker_04
That meant things were good again. Peace was here. We are affluent. It was a sign of affluence, meaning we had jobs again, meaning we could buy things. So candy was a symbol of all of that.
00:46:58 Speaker_04
So important that these grandmothers carried it in their purses and these grandfathers kept it in their workshops. And when these kids like me, my great aunts and my grandmother gave me the candy, it was a sign of love.
00:47:13 Speaker_04
And it was the sign that everything's all right. We're going to be okay. and things are good. And it stayed that way up until we got really uptight in the 60s and 70s and still ate the candy, but pretended that we didn't.
00:47:27 Speaker_04
So candy morphed into stuff like energy bars and we still eat it. And gummy vitamins.
00:47:33 Speaker_03
And gummy vitamins, which I ate some this morning. So Turkish delight with magnesium in it, essentially.
00:47:40 Speaker_02
More on corn syrup in a bit, but there are many types of sugars and they all fall under monosaccharides or disaccharides, but your body digests them into glucose.
00:47:49 Speaker_02
And for more on what a carb actually is, we have a glycology episode as well as a diabetology episode.
00:47:55 Speaker_04
So the reality is that we've always had sugar. We've always had a lot of sugar. It comes from lots of different places. It comes from sorghum, which is a grain carbohydrate that becomes a sugar when it's processed.
00:48:08 Speaker_04
It comes from raspberry leaves and, you know, all different things. Yeah, we've always had it. We being most Americans, say in the 1700s, if you were enslaved, you were forced to make it under dire conditions.
00:48:24 Speaker_04
You did have the molasses, which is the dregs of the cane sugar production. So a lot of people didn't have cane sugar, but they had a lot of sugar, plenty of sugar. What happened is corn syrup is very versatile.
00:48:38 Speaker_04
And so they started making high fructose corn syrup, which had two purposes. It cuts the candy through the machinery and it made it sweeter. And now all of a sudden, everybody thinks corn syrup is really, really bad for you.
00:48:53 Speaker_04
And corn syrup probably is really, really bad for you, depending on the corn syrup you get and how processed it is.
00:48:58 Speaker_02
Hang on a sec for that. But when it comes to sugar being harmful, what about less on a biological or molecular scale and more from a social and humanitarian standpoint?
00:49:10 Speaker_04
Abolitionists had a movement, which was the free products movement. And what they would do, I've heard also as free produce movement, but what they would do is boycott anything that was made with, quote, the blood and sweat of slaves.
00:49:27 Speaker_04
If we boycott cane sugar, then we'll make it unnecessary for them to hold people in enslavement because they're not going to be making money from it because nobody's getting the goods that these enslaved people are making. But they still needed sugar.
00:49:44 Speaker_04
They still had to have sugar. What did they use? They used maple, which was hard to get, but they used that. They used sorghum, which they boiled, and the ones in the north discovered
00:49:55 Speaker_04
in the 1800s, not knowing the enslaved people were using it since they first came over in the 1600s. And they used beet sugar, which grows in cold weather. And so it's a big sugar beet. It's not the beet they eat for dinner.
00:50:09 Speaker_04
And it grows in cold weather. So unlike cane sugar, which is dependent on this hot climate that's unnatural here, they could have the beet sugar. And those were the sugars that became
00:50:21 Speaker_04
most of the sugars Americans used for decades after the Civil War and still today. Do we want to get into corn syrup?
00:50:28 Speaker_02
Do we go there? Okay. So this is an aside. This is not an entire episode. So I'm going to bottle up a lot of feelings about sodas, and we're just going to give you a little sip of history. So
00:50:40 Speaker_02
Table sugar is sucrose and fructose is a different type of sugar. It's sweeter than sucrose. Fructose occurs obviously in nature all over the place. Now, eventually your body breaks it all down into glucose.
00:50:51 Speaker_02
But in the 1960s, manufacturers figured out how to chemically convert some of the existing glucose in corn syrup into fructose, making the little gremlin that we see on so many ingredient lists, high fructose corn syrup.
00:51:05 Speaker_02
Now, nutritionally, there shouldn't be a difference, but researchers are still figuring that out. But the Wikipedia for high fructose corn syrup is very much like, all good, nothing to see here.
00:51:16 Speaker_02
I'm going to guess there are some high fructose executives that are hopping on there editing it. Because a bop through medical journals is like, girl, don't do it. High fructose, don't go there.
00:51:27 Speaker_02
Again, research is still out, but a 2021 article by the National Cancer Institute titled, inquisitively, Does Too Much Fructose Help Colorectal Cancers Grow?
00:51:37 Speaker_02
details how one 2019 study showed that feeding high fructose corn syrup to mice prone to developing intestinal tumors could increase the size and the aggressiveness of colorectal tumors.
00:51:49 Speaker_02
And many, many other papers link overconsumption of all sugars, including fructose, to everything from metabolic syndromes to asthma. Now in 2018, the average American consumed 62 pounds of refined sugars.
00:52:04 Speaker_02
In some countries, sodas are made with cane sugar, but the U.S. government is very pro-corn, so high fructose corn syrup is more readily available in everything.
00:52:13 Speaker_02
Now remember, entirely eliminating high fructose corn syrup will not save your life if you're going wild with a ton of other sugars. It may affect your body differently, but the main problem is it's just in a lot of things.
00:52:24 Speaker_02
High fructose corn syrup is like if your friend's magician friend showed up at every party and you're like, who invited him? I kind of can't deal right now.
00:52:33 Speaker_02
small doses people, but we'll talk about that, how to eat candy in a healthier way later in the episode. Now on the topic of reviled corn products, let's talk about one candy that's really stuck in your craw, and that is candy corn. What even is it?
00:52:49 Speaker_02
Okay, it's made with sugar, but of course, corn syrup, of course, sesame oil, artificial, probably vanilla flavor, gelatin, and a glaze that contains a secretion from bugs. Vegans, you're off the hook on candy corn.
00:53:03 Speaker_02
You can turn this down for ethical reasons. But candy corn, it was born in the late 1800s, and it was marketed toward rural populations, of course. And it once bore the name chicken feed. This was a candy called chicken feed.
00:53:17 Speaker_02
And according to Susan's research, workers were often burned trying to successfully pour the hot colored sugar into the molds. People suffered to make candy corn. If you still enjoy candy corn, I'm going to saddle you with an unsettling fact.
00:53:33 Speaker_02
Brocks is one of the biggest producers of candy corn and they rolled out a turkey dinner flavored variation with notes of oniony stuffing, roasted bird meat, green beans, cranberry sauce, carrots, and sweet potatoes.
00:53:48 Speaker_02
Although later iterations swapped out those root vegetables with apple pie and coffee. I think they kept the turkey and oniony flavors. This was a few years ago. I couldn't find it anywhere on the market. Maybe the world is just too tough right now.
00:54:02 Speaker_02
And Brocks is like, we'll bring it back when things calm down.
00:54:05 Speaker_03
Can I ask you some questions from listeners? From what? From listeners who wrote in already. They know you're coming on.
00:54:12 Speaker_04
Oh, are listeners listening now?
00:54:14 Speaker_03
No, they're not listening now, but they sent in... Oh, thank God. No, no, no. They sent in 36 pages of questions for you. We won't ask all of them.
00:54:21 Speaker_04
I'm happy! Yay! This is great! Can I just tell you, Allie, really fast? I get interviewed so much and they are always boring. And after a while, I tell my assistant to call through because I can't do that between you and me. Boring.
00:54:36 Speaker_04
And you were like, man, I would be interviewed by you any day or night. I'm telling you. This is great. I'm really happy.
00:54:46 Speaker_02
And we are so happy too. We're also happy to support a cause of Susan's choosing.
00:54:50 Speaker_02
And this week she chose her local animal welfare society of Jefferson County, which provides housing and adoption services for abandoned, surrendered, neglected, abused, and unwanted dogs, puppies, cats, and kittens until they're adopted.
00:55:04 Speaker_02
and I looked at their website for the Animal Welfare Society of Jefferson County, and they have several very sweet kitties and a few dogs, one of whom is named Gravy Train.
00:55:14 Speaker_02
So a donation will go to them in Susan's honor, and that was made possible by sponsors of the show.
00:55:19 Speaker_02
Moving on, this question was asked by Ghoul Next Door, who said, my grandmother loves circus peanuts, but I find even the thought of them somewhat nauseating. Does nostalgia play a part in those preferences? Ghoul, you're not alone.
00:55:33 Speaker_03
Some people asked, Andy Pepper and Daniel Spaniel wanted to know what your thoughts are, yay or nay, on the ever-polarizing orange circus peanuts. Have you had those? They're those, like, marshmallow-y. What are those? How do you feel about them?
00:55:50 Speaker_03
All right.
00:55:51 Speaker_04
I would say we did a poll once to try to figure out when people coming in a store, what do people think? It's absolutely polarizing. So this is what I want to tell them. You're ready? Knock it off.
00:56:03 Speaker_01
Cut it out.
00:56:05 Speaker_04
I'm gonna tell you the story of circus peanuts, and as they would say, no pun intended, a nut, to be fair.
00:56:11 Speaker_04
Circus peanuts were really made in the late 1800s for circuses, because the circuses had these, it's very unfortunate, but they had these elephants that they would come, the poor things, and so we would all get circus peanuts.
00:56:25 Speaker_04
They had big newspaper ads, the circus is coming, buy your circus peanuts. now, full page in the newspapers.
00:56:34 Speaker_04
These candies were so popular that they were all around the country, they were different colors, they were beloved by one and all, and so much so they became the prototype for, drum roll if you please, the Lucky Charms cereal. No.
00:56:55 Speaker_02
Yes. Really? Really. Because those are so crunchy.
00:57:01 Speaker_04
Yeah. So knock it off, guys. It's a great candy and it has fascinating history and is built into the fabric of who we are. When you were a little kid, you're picking out the Lucky Charms charms cereal, right? Yeah. Yeah. Circus Peanuts in a grown-up form.
00:57:19 Speaker_02
So yes, we know that these weird orange-colored, banana-flavored marshmallow tragedies were an ingredient in the Lucky Charms prototype. And history, though, gets muddy about their circus origins.
00:57:33 Speaker_02
But as one book called Food Bites, The Science of the Foods We Eat, notes, the history of circus peanuts is clouded, as with most foods.
00:57:40 Speaker_02
But perhaps for circus peanuts, it's because nobody wants to admit that they were responsible for developing this much-maligned product.
00:57:48 Speaker_02
But yeah, also on the topic of books, you can find out more about Lucky Charms and other cereals in Susan's book, Fun Foods of America, Outrageous Delights, Celebrated Brands, and Iconic Recipes.
00:58:00 Speaker_02
And I never would have suspected that circus peanuts, which have the texture of an old eraser, would have led to one of my favorite well-rounded breakfasts, containing the food group of marshmallows. Do they need to get more stale?
00:58:13 Speaker_02
I feel like if you have a soft marshmallow, it's one thing, and then if you have a crunchy Lucky Charm, but there's like some in between where your body doesn't trust it.
00:58:21 Speaker_04
Well, you know, that's an excellent question. And it's a whole nother subject. So only let me tell you that our bodies like things that are crunchy. And this is from my new book.
00:58:31 Speaker_04
Our bodies like things that are crunchy, which is why you find advertisements for crunchy things, right? And our bodies don't trust things that are bitter. And our bodies tell us if it's bitter, it's poisonous.
00:58:44 Speaker_02
You can see our gustatology episode, which is all about taste buds and why we love some things and gag out others as if they were haunted. Okay, Han the Bee wants to know more about marzipan.
00:58:56 Speaker_02
They love it, but they know it's a very polarizing type of sweetness. And part of the fun is that it comes in such cute little shapes and designs. So sculpting marzipan, was that considered a very fancy treat, they want to know?
00:59:09 Speaker_02
Okay, so it's polarizing.
00:59:11 Speaker_04
So now we've had two questions, both of them polarizing candy. So I'm batting a thousand here and fine with me. So they actually go all the way back to the ancient Romans.
00:59:21 Speaker_04
It had to be in a place where the almonds grew, because almonds were really significant for many reasons. And one of them was a sign of the changing of the seasons, the beginning of life, birth, renewal, as well as new beginnings.
00:59:37 Speaker_04
So it had all of these values to it. It was the first tree in the Middle East to flower. And so it became really important, biblical, you know, the rod of Oh my gosh, of Aaron, was it?
00:59:52 Speaker_02
So yeah, Aaron was the brother of Moses and probably annoyed that everyone was like, yo, how's Moses, man? Tell Moses to hit me up.
00:59:59 Speaker_02
But Aaron had a rod too and it was said to have been endowed with magical powers and it miraculously sprouted blossoms and almonds to show that God thought Aaron was cool. So he's like, oh, okay, you parted some seas? Well, I have an almond wand.
01:00:13 Speaker_04
In the Bible, you see a lot of the use of almonds, for example. So the marzipan was made to be an almond paste, an almond confection. And it was the almond that gave marzipan its clout and importance.
01:00:29 Speaker_04
The marzipan was so significant that they would have entire tables with a pig with an apple in its mouth. They would have voluptuous fruits, all of it made by marzipan. Marzipan was really important.
01:00:45 Speaker_04
And the reason why today we have marzipan at Easter, that kind of thing, is because of that ancient use of it. So the marzipan and the shapes is, today, it ain't nothing like it used to be.
01:01:00 Speaker_03
I do love the little sculptures, though. It does make me want to sit down and have craft night and sculpt little fruits and piggies and stuff like that.
01:01:07 Speaker_04
Oh, they were always sculpted, always. But like really, like towers, like towers on a table made out of marzipan.
01:01:15 Speaker_02
It took me a while to like marzipan, but I was like, what's happening? But I love it.
01:01:19 Speaker_02
Another polarizing flavor, because people have their favorites, Rowentree, Rachel Prostako, Miss Carter of Mars, Sugarpuff Tatikins, Bird Nerd Robin, Evan Davis, Crystal Wilson, Christine Valdez, and Brian Shanigans.
01:01:33 Speaker_02
They all want to know, in Rachel's words, how do they make sour candy sour? What are they coated with? Rowentree is obsessed with it, but wants to know why sour candies were developed.
01:01:45 Speaker_02
and Brian also mentioned that they can help with nausea while pregnant. But yeah, sour candy, I'm drooling thinking about it.
01:01:52 Speaker_04
What's the deal? Okay, sour candy, say the lemon sours, right? They're really important because say in the war or if you're traveling somewhere or even if you're nauseous, the sour candies were there
01:02:05 Speaker_04
to make you salivate so that if you're in war you don't feel as thirsty or they make you salivate and that soothes your throat because now all the glycerin is getting down there. So they had a really important use, but
01:02:21 Speaker_04
They were not as sour as they are now. That isn't really how it works. If you have a lemon and you leave it out for a couple days, it's not going to be sour.
01:02:31 Speaker_02
And in this case, what makes a lot of sour candies make your mouth kind of pucker in and implode is what's called sour sanding with additional acid like citric or tartaric acid. How do you quantify what is the most sourest? The pH scale.
01:02:48 Speaker_02
So scientists, they use the pH scale to measure a substance acidity or the strength of the acid that it contains. More acidic a substance, the lower it scores on the pH scale.
01:03:00 Speaker_02
So in a pamphlet titled, The Power of Sour in Your Mouth, which was distributed by the Minnesota Dental Association, Water has a pH of seven, okay? Neutral. Now the lower you go, again, the more acidic something is. Vinegar is about a 2.2.
01:03:16 Speaker_02
And stomach acid and lemon juice, those hit about a two. So I scooted my eyes right down that candy list to see what was the lowest pH. And the top three sour treats are Altoid mango sours with a pH of 1.9. That's more acidic than stomach acid.
01:03:34 Speaker_02
Wonka Fun Dip Powder is more acidic at 1.8, and the top measured sour candy was Warheads Sour Spray, 1.6. There was one more thing on the list below that, and I was like, what's that? And it was something at 1.0, and that was battery acid.
01:03:53 Speaker_02
Warhead sour spray comes in at just over a half a point on the pH scale over battery acid. So if you've ever wondered why hot sauce can clean your pennies, it's the vinegar, it's the acid, which again, is less acidic than a Warhead sour spray.
01:04:09 Speaker_02
So let's do a wellness check on your teeth, shall we? The Journal of the American Dental Association found in a paper titled, In Vitro Enamel Erosion Associated with Commercially Available Original and Sour Candies,
01:04:22 Speaker_02
that the potential for erosion associated with sour candies has been identified as a new and emerging concern. So rinse your mouth after eating. Or maybe your biggest takeaway from this is to just obtain some warhead sour spray.
01:04:36 Speaker_02
From the reviews, the watermelon is the most sour. Maybe you just want to have this in your purse when walking alone at night as a weapon.
01:04:44 Speaker_04
And so sour is the new flavor of du jour. And so now there's like, we're really so sour, we have punk rock candy and you can't stand it. This is all about manufacturing kids.
01:04:55 Speaker_04
And I'm better get used to it because it's everything seems to be commercialized and candy is no exception. Originally though, those sour candies were really beneficial and really purposeful and really symbolic because as I mentioned,
01:05:10 Speaker_04
These candies were available for everybody. And if you have a sore throat and you have a sour ball, you just feel better. If you're nauseous, the sucking on it clears up your ears, same thing.
01:05:23 Speaker_03
I've heard that it can help with a panic attack because it jolts your brain into your physicality instead of your head. Yeah, it distracts you. Yeah, it distracts you.
01:05:33 Speaker_02
And according to a 2016 study in the Journal of Psychopathology and Behavioral Assessment, is distraction an adaptive or maladaptive strategy for emotion regulation? A person-oriented approach.
01:05:45 Speaker_02
Distracting yourself with physical sensations may be either adaptive or maladaptive, depending on whether it's combined with an attitude of acceptance, which is helpful, or just avoidance, which is not so much helpful.
01:06:00 Speaker_02
Now, if you don't have something sour on hand, if you're having anxiety or a panic attack, you can always do some other mindfulness, like feeling your inhalations as you take deep breaths, or trying to identify the sounds you can hear, or the smells you may be experiencing, or doing a body scan meditation, feeling all the parts of your body in succession, going up from your toes, and saying, this is a feeling I'm having, but it's gonna pass like clouds.
01:06:29 Speaker_02
And if that sounds too hard and you're like, give me the sour stuff, bitch, then I can direct you toward those warhead sour sprays, which, according to an Amazon review from a user named Tiffany, I love watermelon especially when my brain decides to be mean to me.
01:06:45 Speaker_02
Another Amazon reviewer named Jane wrote that when a panic attack strikes, quote, I use the sour taste to redirect my brain to worry about the sour and not what's making me anxious. The only thing I would ask is to make them more sour. J.
01:07:00 Speaker_02
that would be battery acid. So let's stick to those warheads for now. But as long as we are staying away from toxic substances, another user said that sour warhead spray, quote, genuinely helped me quit vaping after eight years of trying and failing.
01:07:15 Speaker_02
So who knew? Warheads that are actually saving lives. Now, if you're thinking that these are niche interests, let's talk about what's popular.
01:07:24 Speaker_02
A few patrons asked, including Kaylin Joviak, Chris Curious, Mariko, and Colorado Keith, first time question asker, wants to know if there's a candy by weight that's the most consumed every year or if it changes much over time.
01:07:39 Speaker_02
Like, is there one candy that is hands down more popular, you know, with consumers across the world?
01:07:46 Speaker_04
Well, the most popular candy around the world is chocolate. So my area of expertise is North America. But I know that around the world, you have many iterations of chocolate.
01:07:59 Speaker_04
And depending where you are, dark chocolate takes precedence or milk chocolate does. So it's really hard to narrow down and say which one by the pound is going to win out. But I would put my bet on chocolates made by Hershey.
01:08:15 Speaker_04
And the reason is that Hershey has mastered the art of cheap chocolate. It's affordable and abundant, and it has a really good, albeit false, story behind it. And what's the flimflam with the Hershey story?
01:08:31 Speaker_04
The flimflam is that Milton Hershey never invented anything except marketing prowess. He was great at inventing marketing schemes. and he put the almond in the chocolate bar. He dropped out of grammar school. His mother, he was a Mennonite.
01:08:46 Speaker_04
His mother and father were divorced. How's that? In the late 1800s, they figured they'll teach him to make ice cream and then candy. So at least the poor kid could have a job, right? And what he wound up doing was learning from other people.
01:08:59 Speaker_04
So overwhelmingly what he created at the beginning were things that he didn't invent. He didn't invent the caramel. He got that off of some guy in Denver. He didn't invent the kiss. It was an existing candy, and he would spy.
01:09:15 Speaker_04
He would go to Europe, and he'd go spy in the candy companies, but they were all spying on each other, so that wasn't that bad. But the beauty and the lost opportunity of Milton Hershey is that Milton Hershey, as the company presents it,
01:09:31 Speaker_04
is a complete myth. He was not Spider-Man. He was a guy who was unable to do so many things that many of us take for granted because we come from families that at least were supportive.
01:09:46 Speaker_04
His father took off and then wound up bankrupting him every time they met up. There was no love in that. He didn't come from a wholesome Pennsylvania family by a long shot.
01:09:57 Speaker_04
But the good thing about Hershey, if they would just knock it off at that company, is that most people are not Spider-Man. And if you look at Hershey Chocolate, and somebody knocked it off and said, you know what? He was a terrible student.
01:10:13 Speaker_04
He had a dysfunctional family. His father was a jerk. There's probably a lot of hollering in their household. And he made it. And if you are a CD or even if you're flunking out, guess what? It doesn't matter.
01:10:26 Speaker_04
Find who you are and what you're good at and do it. And you will make it just the way you should.
01:10:32 Speaker_02
So when Susan just says like his father was a jerk, it goes a bit deeper. So Milton Snavely Hershey's dad was Henry. And Henry, though he was an avid reader, was not an avid moneymaker. Well, he started a lot of businesses, but none of them succeeded.
01:10:48 Speaker_02
And he had a tendency to grab someone else's money, lose interest, fail, and then split town.
01:10:55 Speaker_02
And according to the 1977 New York Times archival story, Life with Father, in his pre-chocolate days, dad Henry started a cabinetry company for displaying candy with Milton.
01:11:08 Speaker_02
But then Henry got distracted by the silver rush in Colorado and was like, see you son. And Milton was like, dang dad, now I'm broke. Henry was like, dude, I'm sorry. Come to Colorado. Let's mine some silver.
01:11:18 Speaker_02
So Milton scraped together some money and then found no silver. So Milton had to get a job with a caramel maker. Milton's like, okay, I'm in the caramel business. And it was like, smell you later, dad.
01:11:27 Speaker_02
Milton hightailed it to Chicago, leaving his dad in the dust. But then Henry showed up in Chicago and was like, Milton, my boy, let me help you with the candy. And then Henry, his dad, gave a bunch of Milton's money away to one of his friends.
01:11:39 Speaker_02
Once again, Milton was broke. He's like, dad, I love you. You suck. Susan said that Henry and Milton's mom, Veronica Fanny Buckwalter Snavely Hershey, were divorced, but they were more likely separated.
01:11:52 Speaker_02
Although I got way too far down the rabbit hole and I started tracking down Henry's census records, and in 1900, he listed himself as a widow, although his estranged wife outlived him by several decades.
01:12:05 Speaker_02
Henry's 1900 census record shows his occupation was quote, invalid.
01:12:11 Speaker_02
But his obituary, four years later, stated that for a man of his years, his faculties were remarkably well-preserved, and that he died suddenly of a heart issue after returning home from a two-mile walk.
01:12:22 Speaker_02
It also says that Henry is survived by his wife, who years earlier, he told the government had died, even though she was still alive.
01:12:29 Speaker_02
So yes, Henry Hershey, father of Milton Hershey, the chocolatier, we might call him a bit of a scoundrel, or a scamp, or a reprobate, or a rascal.
01:12:38 Speaker_02
Either way, Milton was a good son to Henry and Fanny, and though Milton and his wife Catherine could not bear children of their own, they opened an orphanage and a high-quality education boarding school for impoverished kids, to which Milton quietly left his entire fortune after he died.
01:12:57 Speaker_02
And yeah, this was 1910, and at the time, they only accepted males who were white. Yeah, that sucked. We do not like that. Milton, if you come back in another multiverse, please change that.
01:13:09 Speaker_02
But Milton was otherwise said to adhere to the religion of the Golden Rule. But yeah, Milton Hershey seems like a guy who was imperfect, but tried to do some good things.
01:13:20 Speaker_03
Why are we doing that? It's a crime! I feel like you should be Hershey's CMO, like you should take over, change the story, you know what I mean? Because that is much more interesting.
01:13:29 Speaker_04
No, they don't like me. I went and I interviewed them for my last book and the woman gave me very short answers.
01:13:39 Speaker_03
I think you tell their story better than they do. That's great to know. It endears me to him personally. It endears me, yeah. Okay, so Rebecca Fitchett and Mariko.
01:13:50 Speaker_03
Mariko wanted to know, they said, I'm Mexican-American and the nostalgic candies for me are all centered on tamarindo, chili, and various forms of condensed milk, but wanted to know why some other candies are based on like whorehound and cloves.
01:14:04 Speaker_03
And Rebecca Fitchett wanted to know, what is whorehound? Why was it a popular flavor? Why is it not common now? Was that a New England thing and not a more global southern thing?
01:14:15 Speaker_04
Yeah. So, whorehound is... By the way, if any of you live... I live in West Virginia. I'm from Massachusetts. Grow your own whorehound. It's wonderful. It's of the mant family.
01:14:26 Speaker_04
And it has what is called hoary leaves, which means it looks like little hairs are coming out of it. And it has a stem with little round, almost like rings around it. It's absolutely gorgeous and flowers from it.
01:14:40 Speaker_04
It came to North America around the 1500s, sometime around then. and was used for sore throat and used as a remedy for upset stomachs.
01:14:50 Speaker_04
And people really loved it because they added some sugar, they made this candy, which they really enjoyed, and it carried over. It's one of the candies, much like peppermint, but even more so, that has held on to its medicinal value.
01:15:07 Speaker_04
Whorehound is an enigma to people for two reasons. One is, whore? What do you mean by whore? And you know, believe me, we get our share of jokes about that, number one. But number two is the flavor. So the flavor of whorehound
01:15:23 Speaker_04
in its truest form as a candy is really, really bitter. And our palates aren't geared for that anymore. Recently, I would say over the last 50, 60 years, we've had less and less of a tolerance for Horham candy. What the
01:15:38 Speaker_04
candy makers are doing now, particularly the old-timey ones, they're adding more sugar and now you still have the warthog flavor, but it's not what it really, really should be.
01:15:48 Speaker_04
So grape plant really does work, I believe, from what I've heard from people. I'm not a doctor, but it seems to work for bad stomachs and for sore throats.
01:15:58 Speaker_02
And for more on this, you can see the 2017 Journal of Intercultural Ethnopharmacology paper, Merubian-Vulgari, a review on phytochemical and pharmacological aspects, which notes that the whorehound plant has reportedly pharmacological activities such as anti-pain, anti-spasmodic, antihypertensive, anti-diabetic,
01:16:17 Speaker_02
gastroprotective, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-cancer, antioxidant, and anti-hepatoxic, like liver toxic, activity in traditional ethnobotany uses.
01:16:29 Speaker_02
It does concede, though, that while used in traditional and folk medicines, further scientific studies are needed to explore the clinical efficacy and the therapeutic effect of the plant.
01:16:40 Speaker_02
Now I was reading that it's great for respiratory infections and I was reading that as I was on the couch with a honking cough and I was like I want to get my mitts on that like post haste because I feel like I have old-timey consumption and from what I've read whorehound has this earthy bitter licorice root beer type flavor and I was like right now I'd drink your grandpa's bath water if it cured my goose honk of a cough.
01:17:04 Speaker_02
and I was eating a Ricola drop, I looked up the ingredients, there's a little whorehound in there. So there you go.
01:17:09 Speaker_04
It really is old time, but it's from the old time palette. In ours, our palettes are so limited now and we have such a sparse vocabulary of what takes good within our mouths. So, yeah.
01:17:25 Speaker_03
Well, if you have time for a couple more questions, I would love to get through. I have all the time you want. Yeah. Amazing. Okay, great.
01:17:34 Speaker_03
Kristen Jacobus and Nathan Marion and Alice Rubin all wanted to know, in Alice's words, who decided blue color is raspberry flavor? How did blue raspberry become a flavor?
01:17:46 Speaker_04
Is there such thing as a blue raspberry? There's not such a thing as very much that's blue that I know of in the whole natural world besides blueberries and now some flowers. Okay, again, today's colors are geared to make you want to eat them.
01:18:01 Speaker_04
So there's a whole process of associating the color with the flavor and then the smell. And all of that goes together to give you the blue raspberry, which doesn't exist in nature and doesn't, by the way, taste like a raspberry, right? No, I know.
01:18:17 Speaker_04
I eat raspberries. That doesn't taste like a raspberry. The snozzberries taste like snozzberries. So what you're essentially doing is you're eating laboratory made candy.
01:18:28 Speaker_04
If you love it and if you have attachment to it because you had it when you were a kid, don't worry about it. It's fine. But that really is the reason and it is about the history of corporate candy making.
01:18:40 Speaker_03
I was wondering, was there an extinct raspberry that was blue and tasted like a Slurpee that I'm just unaware of? I wish.
01:18:48 Speaker_02
So according to a Bon Appetit article titled, what even is blue raspberry anyway? Which has an appropriate level of attitude. The flavor of blue raspberry is actually this chimera of cherry, banana, and citric acid.
01:19:02 Speaker_02
Although, if you ask the 7-Eleven website, it does presently, in the year of our Lord 2024, assert that this flavor is an extraction from the vibrant blue raspberry bushes on the secret island of Rasmus.
01:19:17 Speaker_02
And frankly, so many lawyers could make them take that down, and I'm kind of glad that they haven't. My point is, blue raspberries are catfishing us so hard, and we're so smitten, we can't even accept it.
01:19:29 Speaker_03
We had some great questions. People are very polarized about certain candies. Yes, I'm noticing. And Rachel M. says, my husband's is black licorice, was invented because they didn't have sugar. Any truth to that? Other people, Taya Danilovic and
01:19:46 Speaker_02
Chicken Chomper both asked, licorice candy, why? Two people asked that. And Becky the Sassy Seagrass Scientist said, salty European licorice, is it candy? Is it savory?
01:19:57 Speaker_03
So a lot of people say they love black licorice.
01:20:01 Speaker_02
Ryan Ketchum, Dylan V, who asked, can I justify eating a lot of this? And John, champion of licorice.
01:20:07 Speaker_00
Yeah, hi. My question is whether it's time for licorice to make a really big comeback.
01:20:15 Speaker_02
Others don't. What is the origin of this divisive delight, asked Ryan Ketchum.
01:20:21 Speaker_04
Okay, the divisive delight is, and by the way, if you live in West Virginia or Massachusetts or any of these cooler climates, you can grow licorice in your yard. I do. It's a wonderful plant.
01:20:35 Speaker_04
And so the licorice root itself was, and in some places still is, a candy. You get the licorice root and you chew it and you get the licorice flavor. And so first came the licorice as something you could chew. But there's another reason why.
01:20:52 Speaker_04
When you chew the licorice root, it splays out into these kind of prongs.
01:20:57 Speaker_04
People would chew it to clean their teeth, and they would always be rolling these licorice roots around in the teeth, and they chew the tree resins for the same reason, but licorice root in particular, because how it splays out.
01:21:10 Speaker_04
So enslaved people would use that, and they would use it as a flavoring. and people would use it as a digestive and they would use it for all these different reasons.
01:21:20 Speaker_04
And when candy started coming around, licorice became really important because it was available and because people liked the flavor. Our palates have changed a lot. Charlie Chaplin,
01:21:34 Speaker_04
is one of the best examples of how popularized he became, even though not that many people knew it.
01:21:39 Speaker_04
He had a movie called The Gold Rush, and in it he was this hobo, and he was kind of out there, and he's trying to pan for gold, and he didn't have any gold, so he had to eat a boot. And so the famous scene where he ate a boot,
01:21:54 Speaker_04
and he ate the shoelaces like spaghetti. This is in the 20s, and I know this because I read it and researched it, but I also asked the guy who owns the company now, he's the grandson of the guy who founded it, or the great-grandson.
01:22:08 Speaker_04
He confirmed that Charlie Chaplin called the American Liquor Company and said, can you make me a licorice boot for my movie? They said, yeah, sure. So they figured it out. They made him two boots because they knew one would probably get rattled up.
01:22:23 Speaker_04
And that's what he's eating in the movie, is the American Licorice Company. But licorice was a real favorite for years and years. They had all sorts of... Look, Good & Plenty is the first candy brand in the country, Good & Plenty, 1893.
01:22:38 Speaker_04
People loved licorice. You know, they were eating Good & Plenty in 1893. Today, I believe, Again, it's like Corhoun, our palates have changed so much.
01:22:50 Speaker_04
Some people with a particular taste profile, as they call them, they like licorice and other people don't. Not as many people, I can assure you, like licorice as they used to.
01:23:01 Speaker_04
But again, that has a lot to do with our limited palates and not in an insulting way, but just reality. But yeah, licorice was everywhere. It was great. It was important. It was medicine. It was a food. It was a candy. It was a tobacco.
01:23:17 Speaker_04
It was a sweet treat for kids.
01:23:20 Speaker_03
Wow. It was licorice's world. We were just living in it back then, I guess.
01:23:24 Speaker_04
Well, you know what happened? It didn't very quick. It didn't grow here. It grew all over Europe.
01:23:30 Speaker_04
And after the Civil War, these people who had, you know, tobacco fields or had had sugar plantations needed an economy and they wanted to create an American licorice economy. because they wanted to use it in tobacco.
01:23:45 Speaker_04
And they said, we could grow it here. We don't have to import it. We could sell it. We could export it. We could use it in the tobacco. All the money would stay here. That's the South, right? That's in the South, they're saying that.
01:23:57 Speaker_04
And who are they trying to get help from? Well, the North, you know, the victors of the Civil War. They're not gonna give them money to start up their economy again. So they didn't, and we never have had a licorice economy.
01:24:11 Speaker_04
and all the licorice that we get is from somewhere else.
01:24:15 Speaker_02
Side note, the compound in licorice root that makes it sweet is glycorrhizin.
01:24:19 Speaker_02
And when it comes to salmiakki, or salty licorice, which is beloved in Scandinavia and Western Europe, the thing that makes it, some would say nauseatingly salty, is ammonium chloride.
01:24:33 Speaker_02
And some people like it so salty, this licorice, that Germany had to start putting warnings that it was for adult consumption only. Now, can you die from licorice? Well,
01:24:45 Speaker_02
that glycolysin can alter potassium levels and lead to issues with blood pressure and potentially congestive heart failure if you eat too much. And some of this salty licorice is shaped like skulls, just in case you weren't afraid enough of it.
01:25:00 Speaker_02
But haters, you can stay salty. Well, you know, speaking of kind of regional stuff, I always wondered why, you know, you go on a beach vacation and there's so many little shacks on piers that sell saltwater taffy.
01:25:11 Speaker_02
And I'm like, they can't be getting this salt water from below the pier. So Liv Tambrini and Kathleen See both wanted to know what's in saltwater taffy and why is it called saltwater taffy?
01:25:22 Speaker_04
All right, sit down. Okay, I'm into it. All right, you're sitting down because I'm going to tell you this, and you may not like it, but there isn't salt in saltwater taffy.
01:25:32 Speaker_04
And if you go to Denver and you get taffy, and you go to Atlantic City and you get taffy, at least if it's original old style, Okay. Yeah. No salt in it. There's no different, but I'm telling you marketing, marketing, right?
01:25:49 Speaker_04
So marketing is what made the candy of today. This is what happened. They were making taffy on the boardwalk in Atlantic city. And the boardwalk was directly right on the ocean and the waves coming up. And one day there was a storm. This is the story.
01:26:06 Speaker_04
There was a storm, and the waves from the storm flooded this candy company that was making taffy on the boardwalk.
01:26:14 Speaker_04
So it's a mess, and the guy's in there, and the taffy's floating on the water, and the little girl comes in and says, do you have any taffy? I want to buy some taffy. He said, all I have is saltwater taffy.
01:26:27 Speaker_04
And one way or another, there are all of these stories, like he got the idea, a woman walked by and said, you ought to name him that.
01:26:34 Speaker_04
Nobody really knows, but that's why they called him Saltwater Taffy, because it was made by the beach and it kept getting drenched in salt water.
01:26:41 Speaker_04
Well, Saltwater Taffy, this guy wanted to own the name Saltwater Taffy, and he got the rights to be the only one who could use that as his brand. And more and more people took him on legally. And then I think this was in the late 1880s.
01:26:58 Speaker_04
And then around the 1920s, saltwater taboo became a use of a word that anybody could have. He lost the rights. He was probably dead then anyway, but his descendants lost the rights.
01:27:09 Speaker_02
His name was John Ross Edmiston, and yes, he is dead. His New York Times obituary from 1939 notes that he lived until the age of 86, although he died suddenly of a heart attack right in his boardwalk store.
01:27:24 Speaker_02
But he literally died doing what he loved, selling saltwater taffy, which did not have saltwater in it.
01:27:29 Speaker_04
So no, sorry kids, no saltwater in your saltwater taffy. Unless they're adding it now because they don't want people to get upset.
01:27:38 Speaker_03
Right.
01:27:39 Speaker_04
Or because they think it'll be cool. False advertising. But it isn't. The real saltwater taffy never has salt. Does it taste salty to you?
01:27:48 Speaker_03
No, it's not like it's fish flavored or anything. I thank God.
01:27:51 Speaker_04
But what they did was they created little boxes with taffy on it. And so you could go and buy some saltwater taffy from the beach to give as gifts when you go home. Of course. And so it had its own little marketing ecosystem around it.
01:28:07 Speaker_03
Well, in terms of things that you can't get anymore, Greg Dobbs asked a great question.
01:28:12 Speaker_02
It sounds informed. Ferrara Candy Company has recently stopped making atomic fireballs, jawbusters, and lemonheads. What drives a company to discontinue products? I already miss the fireballs and jawbreakers, they say.
01:28:30 Speaker_04
So, number one, don't worry, the fireballs are back. Yay! We just started carrying them again. We saw somebody else was carrying and we're like, we gotta get those.
01:28:39 Speaker_04
So they're back and they are, originally they were the sugar plums of the 1400s and they made their way up to the Jawbreakers and then the atomic fireballs after World War II. That's what they were.
01:28:52 Speaker_04
They were very important, but they weren't a moneymaker.
01:28:55 Speaker_02
Susan says that this happens with candy companies a lot. Things die this much lamented death, but then are resurrected to a lot of fanfare and relief.
01:29:05 Speaker_04
The NECA wafer, the company folded for one horrifying year. We had no NECA wafers. Now they're back. It may have been three years, but it felt like 20 years. Sam Sam, that licorice-flavored candy that some older people remember, it was everywhere. Gone.
01:29:23 Speaker_04
Who knows if it'll come back? So it's just the up and down. of the economic cycle of candy and more and more candies are dropping off of the radar. At this point, yes, you can get atomic fireballs.
01:29:40 Speaker_02
Susan has a candy company, of course, and her website, truetreats.com, is a feast of info. Every candy they sell comes with a biography of its origin. Even if you don't like candy, you can get a load of trivia on every page.
01:29:52 Speaker_02
So yes, not only does she write and research, but she is a candy merchant, and so she knows the ins and outs of the biz.
01:29:59 Speaker_04
We can get jawbreakers, but only the really, really big ones, the mega big ones, well, the medium and then the really big ones. So we do have jawbreakers again.
01:30:08 Speaker_04
Lemonheads, I don't know about, but my hunch is they were pushed out by all of their sales, probably limited by all the new, unbelievably sour candies that are out there is what I bet. They may come back, I don't know. So don't give up.
01:30:21 Speaker_04
All you people, when you see your favorite candies leaving, don't worry, they may come back. I've witnessed it, I promise you.
01:30:29 Speaker_03
Does it help to tell the company that you're just so pissed not to have fireballs? Does that help? Yeah. Okay. It does. Yeah. Protest.
01:30:38 Speaker_04
All right. I'm going to tell you a protest at work. You ready? Uh-huh. Okay. You know the pixie stick? Yes, of course. It's a little straw, that wonderful little straw. That, by the way, it was gone. It was gone last year. No more pixie stick.
01:30:52 Speaker_04
There were some of these newer versions, right? Now it's back. Yeah, we have pixie sticks again.
01:30:58 Speaker_02
Patron Iso Party confessed that they used to love super sugary candy as a kid, like Pixie Stix, but they write, at 26 now, the thought of that candy makes me gag. And yes, I get it, Iso. My teeth sweat just imagining them.
01:31:13 Speaker_02
But the history is fascinating.
01:31:15 Speaker_04
Anyway, pixie sticks were made in the earlier part of the 1900s.
01:31:19 Speaker_04
Kids were eating, when they were going to school, and they were eating the pixie stick, and they had the white shirts on, because in those days, kids dressed up for school, and they had white shirts. And they would eat the pixie sticks like you did.
01:31:31 Speaker_04
They would go to the pharmacy, and they would get them. And they were covered with colors. And the mothers were very, very upset. So they did what you're recommending now, my dear.
01:31:42 Speaker_04
What they did is they lobbied the company to make a neater version of the Pixie Stick. Our kids love it. We have to give our kids these candies, but you can't do this. They're slobs. We can't have a kid be a slob in school. So the company obliged.
01:31:59 Speaker_04
They listened. And you know what they made as a neater version of the Pixie Stick? You know what they called it? Tell me, tell me.
01:32:05 Speaker_03
Sweet tarts. There we go. Those you can keep in your purse, too, and you can just one at a time, you know?
01:32:12 Speaker_04
Well, yeah, kids can eat them and not get it all over themselves. So people, you can lobby your company. You can lobby the company, but you got to have a lot of clout. Got to really get numbers, numbers, and they'll do it.
01:32:23 Speaker_03
Well, some people who had best intentions have wondered about sugar substitute candies. Maybe blood sugar is an issue, maybe dietary reasons. And Turner Pierce wanted to know, how is sugar-free candy made and why does it never quite taste right?
01:32:43 Speaker_03
And then other people asked about, Brian Shenanigans wants to know, what is it about sugar substitutes and sugar-free candy like sorbitol and malitol that give you the epic poos? Other people wanted to know about- Give you the epic what?
01:32:55 Speaker_03
the epic poops. So people asked about real digestive issues with sugar-free candies.
01:33:02 Speaker_04
If you have stevia, I mean you can grow stevia in your garden, rip it up, put it on your fruit salad, it's delicious and sweet. The story is that These artificial sugars are so infused with flavor of sweetness that doesn't exist in nature.
01:33:19 Speaker_04
As I said, go eat a sugar cube. It doesn't have that much flavor. So we go for the artificial sugars, which are really, really sweet. So now we really, our threshold for sweetness keeps changing from these things.
01:33:34 Speaker_02
Okay, so the quick skinny on sweeteners. There are natural and engineered sweeteners, but what you might be seeing on the nutrition labels of sugar-free or keto-friendly candy are sugar alcohols.
01:33:47 Speaker_02
Usually, they have tols at the end of their names, like xylitol or erythritol or mannitol, sorbitol, and they range from being as sweet as sugar to about half as sweet. Now, these things occur naturally in some fruits.
01:34:01 Speaker_02
Hello, prunes, a little foreshadowing. But as a processed food ingredient, they're typically manufactured from things like potato starch.
01:34:10 Speaker_02
Now, the beauty of them is that they can provide body and sweetness to candy without the calorie content of actual sugars, partly because your body cannot digest them well.
01:34:21 Speaker_02
So they get a fast-track ticket to your intestines, where your gut biome is stoked to have them. Your gut biome is like, what is all this? It digests up a storm and it celebrates with plumes of farts. Sorbitol is sold straight up as a medical laxative.
01:34:40 Speaker_02
And P.S. for more on power washing your intestines, pre-colonoscopy, I have a whole field trip ride along episode on that, linked in the show notes without shame.
01:34:50 Speaker_02
But apart from bubble gut and the cancellation of any plans you had for a few days, sugar alcohols can wreak more bodily havoc. In a recent Cleveland Clinic article ominously titled, What You Should Know About Sugar Alcohols.
01:35:05 Speaker_02
Physicians warn that sugar alcohols like xylitol and erythritol can also cause overactivity of your platelets, resulting in blood clots and other cardiovascular detriments. So as one Amazon review proclaimed, see you in hell, sugar-free gummy bears.
01:35:22 Speaker_04
So you're not reacting well to it because it's not good for you, probably, to whatever extent.
01:35:29 Speaker_03
Well, for people who are looking for maybe some moderation or looking for certain candies that might be healthier for them, a ton of people, Storm, Dylan V, Garrick McLaughlin, Evelyne Sanchez, wanted to know, are there any candies that
01:35:49 Speaker_03
It still tastes good, but in Andrea's words, is there hope for lower sugar candy that still tastes good for people such as myself who have to watch their sugar intake? Any advice you have for people who are on a health kick?
01:36:04 Speaker_04
It's a very hard question to answer because I know that if you have diabetes and you eat raisins, It's sugar, and you can't eat that many raisins. So it's a really hard question.
01:36:17 Speaker_04
So I'll take the medical aspect out of it, because it isn't kind of what I would do. I'd get sued if I did, because I'm not a doctor. I can't say that.
01:36:26 Speaker_02
Again, please see our two-part episode with a diabetic diabetologist, Dr. Mike Natter, about diabetes. Better yet, see your doctor.
01:36:35 Speaker_04
But much of what you have has tons of sugar in it that shouldn't. If you go to a restaurant or even your home and you eat a sauce, you're eating a syrup.
01:36:44 Speaker_04
If you go to have a sandwich, you've got all the sugar in your sandwich, places where it doesn't belong. When you're eating candy, you know how much you're eating.
01:36:56 Speaker_02
Here is her advice. and it's good advice.
01:37:28 Speaker_04
People feel good when they eat candy and when you share it with somebody you feel good and all that. Now that I don't eat much sugar and many sweet things because I really don't, my tolerance for sweet things is very low. I don't like sweet things.
01:37:44 Speaker_02
So breaking news, a candy historian and expert who has written 10 books and owns a candy shop does not overdo it on candy.
01:37:54 Speaker_04
When I have a circus peanut, I can eat half and I feel it all day. And I like it, I just can't. So what I'm saying is use candy the way it should be used, which is ceremonial, get the candy you really love, share it with somebody.
01:38:13 Speaker_04
There's nothing wrong with that. Once you start looking for candy that's healthy for you, you're going to fall in the trap of getting an energy bar and a health food bar and think that you're eating something healthy and you're still eating candy.
01:38:26 Speaker_03
I have to say, I used to work for Food Network and for the Cooking Channel. I was on a dessert show for seven years, seven seasons, and I never ate so healthy.
01:38:36 Speaker_03
Because of that show, I would go and sample six donuts in a sitting, 17 pieces of pie over the day, and then the rest of the week I was like, salads and protein, please. I could pass by a bakery case and be like, I'm good.
01:38:52 Speaker_03
But as soon as you're like, you can't have it, your brain starts saying, no, I have to have it. I have to have it. You know what I mean? So it's OK.
01:38:59 Speaker_04
We want sugar, but we should be using it in a way that works for us and not against us.
01:39:04 Speaker_03
Very light, just teeny tiny amount, practically none.
01:39:08 Speaker_04
And don't believe what marketers are telling you. They're full of beans.
01:39:15 Speaker_02
Check your energy bars, folks. Well, you know, before I get to our last two questions that I ask every guest, what do you give out at Halloween? Halloween's coming up. Do you get trick-or-treaters in West Virginia on your block?
01:39:29 Speaker_02
People in West Virginia do, yeah.
01:39:31 Speaker_03
Yeah, we're part of the United States.
01:39:34 Speaker_02
Well, I mean, I'm just saying some maybe when you live on a rural road, my my poor parents would get a bucket of Halloween candy, and they lived in the mountains, never got anyone. I live on a cul-de-sac. I have never seen a child.
01:39:46 Speaker_02
Okay, so we'll get candy.
01:39:48 Speaker_03
And I'm like, crickets. So I go to my friends houses to help them hand out candy. But when you have to pick out what candy you give out, Yeah. I imagine these people have no idea that they're talking to one of the world's experts in candy. I don't do it.
01:40:01 Speaker_03
You don't? What? Susan!
01:40:04 Speaker_04
I don't. I can't. I mean, I worry that nobody will show up at my house and I'll have all this candy. So what I have done sometimes is, there's a very busy street where they have big Halloween parties for kids. Sometimes I go down
01:40:19 Speaker_04
And I join people there to get out of it. So what I do is I shut off my lights and I go out to dinner. It's true. Or I go meet my friends out there, but they have so much damn candy, they don't want more. They're like, no, we don't need it.
01:40:40 Speaker_04
My husband and I, we're home early because this is shutdown time for Halloween. We're home early. We go to the back of the house and shut off all the lights in the front.
01:40:52 Speaker_03
And we don't answer the door. I pictured you with just a trough of pink only Starburst, which is the best flavor. And like pumpkin Reese's. No, if you have no idea. I could offer them candy corn and they all get pissed off at me. Yeah, I know.
01:41:13 Speaker_03
Can you imagine? They're like never going there again. Well, then I guess don't ask Susan. Don't trick or treat Susan's house. You take a trick. Oh, my God. Well, the worst thing.
01:41:25 Speaker_02
Last two questions. Worst thing about what you do. Worst thing about candy. Worst thing about researching it. There's got to be something that sucks about your job.
01:41:35 Speaker_04
There is nothing that sucks about it in terms of what I do and telling people the stories because they love them, because it's about their lives. It's about their generations. It's about happiness. It's like I'm giving them love. It really matters.
01:41:50 Speaker_04
And when I go on my store, which is candies from the very beginning of history all the way through the 1900s with the story on them, on the labels, they're really happy. And I can go there and people are really happy. And it's so important to me
01:42:05 Speaker_04
that we value happiness and we are happy and that we're together. And then you want to talk about how love starts, it starts with happiness and it's care. So I love that.
01:42:15 Speaker_04
The only thing I will say, and you don't have to hear this, that really sucks about my job is I really love telling these stories and I do so much media. And I often, most of the time, get us really stupid questions.
01:42:34 Speaker_04
And it's like, you can just go to the Mars website and get the answer there. I mean, this is serious, important, dynamic, cultural, amazing, funny things. And so that is why I will tell you, in all honesty, I do, I do a lot of media.
01:42:57 Speaker_04
I will be on anything you do at any time. You are great. I dread interviews sometimes, but sometimes there are people that I just won't answer. Now I'm busy. Sorry. But what I love to do is tell these stories and share things that matter to people.
01:43:17 Speaker_04
Having you interview me, in all honesty, just me and you, It so matters to me, because I can tell them the interesting things. And you don't know about it, and they don't know about it, and I do know about it.
01:43:30 Speaker_04
And aren't the stories that are out there, what better gift is there in your life? And it makes people happy, and it makes sense. And it honors the enslaved people and it honors the immigrants and it honors everybody.
01:43:44 Speaker_03
Oh, getting you on our schedule was a really big deal for us. Well, it's a big deal for me too. I would say have a happy Halloween, but have a quiet Halloween.
01:43:54 Speaker_04
I'll have a delicious pillow and I'm going to a good restaurant.
01:44:00 Speaker_02
So ask sweet people serious questions about the things that are right under your nose or in your purse or in your mouth because the candy aisle, it's never been so nuanced and historical. The gossip, the gossip in it. I love it.
01:44:15 Speaker_02
If you have a favorite candy that we didn't cover, honestly, just start Googling it because chances are it's got a wacky backstory. So thank you to Susan Benjamin for being on. And again, her historic candy company is True Treats.
01:44:27 Speaker_02
It's linked in the show notes, or you can stop by the store in Harpers Ferry, Virginia. Her latest book is Fun Foods of America, Outrageous Delights, Celebrated Brands, and Iconic Recipes, linked in the show notes. All her books are great.
01:44:39 Speaker_02
A donation went to the Animal Welfare Society of Jefferson County, also linked in the show notes. And hello to all the little babies there. Let me know if someone gets gravy train or another animal that is waiting for you to love it.
01:44:51 Speaker_02
We are at Ologies on Twitter and X and I'm at Allie Ward on both. Smallogies is our spinoff show that is all ages and classroom friendly. You can find it with the new green logo wherever you get podcasts.
01:45:03 Speaker_02
that was made by Portland artist Bonnie Dunch, who designed that. And Aaron Talbert, admins the Allergies Podcast Facebook group. Thank you to scheduling producer and Sugar Plum Fairy herself, Noelle Dilworth.
01:45:14 Speaker_02
Our managing director, who also helped a ton with research, is the wonderful Susan Hale. Kelly Ardoir does the website and can do yours. Aveline Malik makes our professional transcripts.
01:45:24 Speaker_02
Jake Chafee is an editor who just sweetens our mix and our everydays. And lead editor who confects the episodes together is Mercedes Maitland of Maitland Audio. Nick Thorburn wrote the music. And if you stick around to the end, I tell you a secret.
01:45:37 Speaker_02
And so I've been sick on the couch for many days, like four or five days working on this. And in the background to keep me company, I've had season 10 of The Survivalist Show Alone on Netflix in the background.
01:45:50 Speaker_02
And right as I was researching clips of Charlie Chaplin eating the boot, Cade on a loan. He's a 27-year-old survivalist from Wyoming. He's starving, as you do in the winter in Saskatchewan, with no food.
01:46:06 Speaker_02
So Cade decides he's gonna boil a chunk of his leather belt to eat. I feel like at that time Cade would have killed for an actual licorice boot. Well, he would have killed any animal just to eat the animal, but yeah. What kismet?
01:46:21 Speaker_02
Watching Charlie Chaplin eat a shoe at the exact same moment another guy is trying to chew his belt. I'm just gonna stick to soup and a lot of Ricolas. That's my next meal. Okay, bye-bye! We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of dreams.